I need to create a control panel to replace one on a full sized coin-
operated arcade video game.

The original control panel made of plywood, which is covered by veneer
on the outside, has roughly a "U" shape with a metal bracket in the
center for added support.

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...nel%20Project/

The control panel pictured is 24" long, and looking at it from on
edge, the width of all three sides is 3-3/4" x 6" x 7".

Making the control panel exactly the same way as the original would be
too difficult, so I was thinking of making one by bending 1/8" sheet
metal into the same shape of the original control panel(an 11 degree
bend), and screwing wood boards to the inside to get the proper
thickness, and adding "L" shaped braces to the inside for support, but
I was wondering how others would tackle a project like this.

*** The only major difference is that the top side of the control
panel where the joysticks are located would be detachable.

I don't know if there is a plausible way to make the edges rounded
like the original, so I'll settle for sharper bends.

I settled on Aluminum for the metal parts because steel would require
serious bending equipment I don't have access to. And I guess that
plywood can be used, but may go with one of the hardwoods.(The
proportion of metal and wood in this project is still an open issue).

Any thoughts, ideas, or tool/material recommendations would be
appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Looks like a Williams control panel. I've got one in the garage I'd
let you have for $20 plus shipping. You'd have to patch a few holes
but you wouldn't have to build the whole thing. Pretty sure I have
the aluminum panel that goes over it too. Otherwise you can just copy
the one you have. Glue and butt joints work fine for those. I might
use pocket screws if I made a new one unless I was worried about
authenticity.

I have several Williams control panels, and I am not looking to hack
any of them.

I'm creating a duplicate control panel *from scratch*. The only
difference is that it will be in two pieces, because I want to be able
to swap the control panel's top without having to unscrew the piano
hinge that hold the entire assembly to the machine.

Basically, my question comes down to finding the best way to get that
angle shown in the first picture.

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Control%20pan...

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************************

On Jun 8, 10:33*pm, dayvo wrote:
Looks like a Williams control panel. *I've got one in the garage I'd
let you have for $20 plus shipping. *You'd have to patch a few holes
but you wouldn't have to build the whole thing. *Pretty sure I have
the aluminum panel that goes over it too. *Otherwise you can just copy
the one you have. *Glue and butt joints work fine for those. *I might
use pocket screws if I made a new one unless I was worried about
authenticity.

On Jun 9, 9:42*pm, Searcher7 wrote:

Basically, my question comes down to finding the best way to get that
angle shown in the first picture.


Now that I've seen your name again, I think I've done business with
you before. Probably bought/sold some PCB's or something.

Let me try to answer your question. To find the angle you can use a
sliding bevel (t-bevel) and/or a protractor. Think of the vertical
piece in your photo as having a dado as wide as the blade kerf. Lay
the piece flat on a table saw and set your blade angle. Cut your
dado. Make it wider if need be. The horizontal piece in your photo
is a rabbet cut at the same angle. Don't round off the vertical piece
until you've finished the dado and rabbet and done a test fit. Then
use a 1/4" round over on the end of that vertical piece.

Well, I know all this. I just have to figure out if I have the right
equipment.

A) Since the cuts will be along with the grain wouldn't it be
considered a "Groove", as opposed to a "Dado"?

B) Is there a blade that will allow me to make a 1/4" x 1/4" groove?
(I have a 10" Delta TS200LS Shopmaster).

C) Since the "Rabbet" will have to be a bevel cut. what is the best
way to accomplish this?(The wood will be 3/4" thick).

D) Would a hard wood like oak(which I assume I can easily get a Home
Depot) be a better choice than what the original control panel was
made of, which I think is BC plywood, or is there a better option?

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************************

On Jun 9, 11:25*pm, dayvo wrote:
On Jun 9, wrote:

Basically, my question comes down to finding the best way to get that
angle shown in the first picture.

Now that I've seen your name again, I think I've done business with
you before. *Probably bought/sold some PCB's or something.

Let me try to answer your question. *To find the angle you can use a
sliding bevel (t-bevel) and/or a protractor. *Think of the vertical
piece in your photo as having a dado as wide as the blade kerf. *Lay
the piece flat on a table saw and set your blade angle. *Cut your
dado. *Make it wider if need be. *The horizontal piece in your photo
is a rabbet cut at the same angle. *Don't round off the vertical piece
until you've finished the dado and rabbet and done a test fit. *Then
use a 1/4" round over on the end of that vertical piece.

I've decided to use 3/4" thick oak/maple boards, and connect them
lengthwise at 80/100 degrees.

The Groove/Rabbet will of course be at the same angle, as well as the
triangular piece I'll use epoxy glue to secure to the inside corner.
(See pic).

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...nel%20Project/

Would a table saw get me the accuracy I need, or do I definitely need
to use my router table?

I'd appreciate pointers to any simular projects.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************************

On Jun 10, 10:02*pm, Searcher7 wrote:
Well, I know all this. I just have to figure out if I have the right
equipment.

A) Since the cuts will be along with the grain wouldn't it be
considered a "Groove", as opposed to a "Dado"?

B) Is there a blade that will allow me to make a 1/4" x 1/4" groove?
(I have a 10" Delta TS200LS Shopmaster).

C) Since the "Rabbet" will have to be a bevel cut. what is the best
way to accomplish this?(The wood will be 3/4" thick).

D) Would a hard wood like oak(which I assume I can easily get a Home
Depot) be a better choice than what the original control panel was
made of, which I think is BC plywood, or is there a better option?

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

************************************************** ************************************************** *******************************************

On Jun 9, 11:25*pm, dayvo wrote:



On Jun 9, wrote:

Basically, my question comes down to finding the best way to get that
angle shown in the first picture.

Now that I've seen your name again, I think I've done business with
you before. *Probably bought/sold some PCB's or something.

Let me try to answer your question. *To find the angle you can use a
sliding bevel (t-bevel) and/or a protractor. *Think of the vertical
piece in your photo as having a dado as wide as the blade kerf. *Lay
the piece flat on a table saw and set your blade angle. *Cut your
dado. *Make it wider if need be. *The horizontal piece in your photo
is a rabbet cut at the same angle. *Don't round off the vertical piece
until you've finished the dado and rabbet and done a test fit. *Then
use a 1/4" round over on the end of that vertical piece.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 08:33:21 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
wrote:

I've decided to use 3/4" thick oak/maple boards, and connect them
lengthwise at 80/100 degrees.

Personally, I'd use cabinet grade baltic birch plywood, the kind with
lots of plies. It's much more stable, and possibly more durable than
solid wood for an application like yours.

Soild wood would still work well for the glue blocks. If you decide
to stay with solid wood for the panel, mind the grain direction, to
avoid a cross-grain gluing situation with the glue blocks.


The Groove/Rabbet will of course be at the same angle, as well as the
triangular piece I'll use epoxy glue to secure to the inside corner.
(See pic).

Sounds good.

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...nel%20Project/

Would a table saw get me the accuracy I need, or do I definitely need
to use my router table?

Either my table saw or router table would be plenty accurate. I'd
probably use the saw as angle dados and rabbets are easier to cut with
it. Using the router table would require a special bit, or shop-made
jig or sled, as my router mount doesn't tilt.

I can't comment on the accuracy of your saw or router table, as I
don't know what you have, how well it's tuned, what blades and bits
you own, or your proficiency with the tools.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Jun 14, 12:42 pm, B A R R Y wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 08:33:21 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7

wrote:
I've decided to use 3/4" thick oak/maple boards, and connect them
lengthwise at 80/100 degrees.

Personally, I'd use cabinet grade baltic birch plywood, the kind with
lots of plies. It's much more stable, and possibly more durable than
solid wood for an application like yours.

Soild wood would still work well for the glue blocks. If you decide
to stay with solid wood for the panel, mind the grain direction, to
avoid a cross-grain gluing situation with the glue blocks.

I found nothing that said "cabinet grade baltic birch plywood". The
following are what I saw at Home Depot and Lowes:

3/4" Hardwood Oak Plywood (4' x 8')
3/4" Hardwood Birch Plywood(4' x 8')
------------------------------------
3/4" Primed Plywood (2' x 4')
3/4" Cherry Plywood (2' x 4')
3/4" UV Maple Plywood(2' x 4')
3/4" Maple Plywood (2' x 4')
3/4" Red Oak Plywood (2' x 4')
3/4" Birch Plywood (2' x 4')
------------------------------
3/4" Birch Boise Cascade (2' x 4')
**********************************
1" x 8" x 10' Solid Red Oak
1" x 12" x 6' Solid Maple

(BTW. I may go with 1" thick instead of 3/4").

The Groove/Rabbet will of course be at the same angle, as well as the
triangular piece I'll use epoxy glue to secure to the inside corner.
(See pic).

Sounds good.

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Control%20pan...

Would a table saw get me the accuracy I need, or do I definitely need
to use my router table?

Either my table saw or router table would be plenty accurate. I'd
probably use the saw as angle dados and rabbets are easier to cut with
it. Using the router table would require a special bit, or shop-made
jig or sled, as my router mount doesn't tilt.

I can't comment on the accuracy of your saw or router table, as I
don't know what you have, how well it's tuned, what blades and bits
you own, or your proficiency with the tools.

I have a Delta TS200LS Shopmaster 10-Inch Table Saw, and a Craftsman
1-1/2 Horse Power, 8 amp Router & Table.

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...slander/Tools/

I just have to build a jig and get the correct saw and bit.(If I don't
already have them).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 10:56:18 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
wrote:

I found nothing that said "cabinet grade baltic birch plywood". The
following are what I saw at Home Depot and Lowes:

3/4" Hardwood Birch Plywood(4' x 8')

This MIGHT work, and is often available in 2'x4' panels if that's all
you need. I say MIGHT, because home centers use many suppliers, and
without seeing what you're looking at... Some is usable, some is
total garbage. What you want is as many plies as possible with no
internal voids. The lack of voids and many plies make for superior
joints and stability.

The stuff I'm talking about is sold by hardwood or plywood dealers
(check the Yellow Pages) and usually comes in 5' x 5' sheets. Expect
to pay ~ $80/sheet for 3/4".

If you use the cheaper birch ply from a home center, use a good gap
filling glue, like epoxy, to put it together. Regular yellow wood
glue needs a solid mechanical joint to properly adhere, as it dosen't
fill gaps.


**********************************
1" x 8" x 10' Solid Red Oak
1" x 12" x 6' Solid Maple

(BTW. I may go with 1" thick instead of 3/4").

Be aware...

"1x" finished wood is actually 23/32" to 3/4" thick, not 1".

3/4" plywood is actually 22-23/32" thick, not 3/4".

You MUST think of wood movement it you use solid stock. If you don't,
you'll probably be sorry when it splits or falls apart. You should be
OK with the edge to edge panel joints, but make sure the reinforcing
parts have the grain oriented in the same direction.

I have a Delta TS200LS Shopmaster 10-Inch Table Saw, and a Craftsman
1-1/2 Horse Power, 8 amp Router & Table.

I'm not familiar with that stuff, but I'd probably use the saw.

Clamp an auxiliary fence to cut the straight side of the rabbet
vertically:
http://www.americanwoodworker.com/aspx/Contentdetail.aspx?ContentId=435&PageNo=1

Then, cut the groove and angled side of the rabbet with the stock flat
on the table.

Get a 2'x4' sheet of MDF (around $6) to use for the tall fence, and
you'll also get a bunch of very inexpensive stock to use for test
cuts on your setup.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Ok, I'll have to go back and do more research.

I'm thinking 1" because thicker means stronger.

I have several books on making Jigs and Fixtures, so I'll concentrate
on using the Table saw to get the correct angled Bevel cuts.

What is your take on how the original control panel was made?
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...nel%20Project/

I count 5 plies. And a veneer was used to cover after the corners were
rounded.(If I decide to round the corner, I guess I could use some Oak
veneer I also saw at HD & Lowes).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************************

On Jun 15, 5:16*pm, B A R R Y wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 10:56:18 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7

wrote:

I found nothing that said "cabinet grade baltic birch plywood". The
following are what I saw at Home Depot and Lowes:

3/4" Hardwood Birch Plywood(4' x 8')

This MIGHT work, and is often available in 2'x4' panels if that's all
you need. *I say MIGHT, because home centers use many suppliers, and
without seeing what you're looking at... * Some is usable, some is
total garbage. * What you want is as many plies as possible with no
internal voids. * *The lack of voids and many plies make for superior
joints and stability.

The stuff I'm talking about is sold by hardwood or plywood dealers
(check the Yellow Pages) and usually comes in 5' x 5' *sheets. *Expect
to pay ~ $80/sheet for 3/4".

If you use the cheaper birch ply from a home center, use a good gap
filling glue, like epoxy, to put it together. *Regular yellow wood
glue needs a solid mechanical joint to properly adhere, as it dosen't
fill gaps.

**********************************
1" x 8" x 10' Solid Red Oak
1" x 12" x 6' Solid Maple

(BTW. I may go with 1" thick instead of 3/4").

Be aware...

"1x" finished wood is actually 23/32" to 3/4" thick, not 1".

3/4" plywood is actually 22-23/32" thick, not 3/4".

You MUST think of wood movement it you use solid stock. *If you don't,
you'll probably be sorry when it splits or falls apart. *You should be
OK with the edge to edge panel joints, but make sure the reinforcing
parts have the grain oriented in the same direction.

I have a Delta TS200LS Shopmaster 10-Inch Table Saw, and a Craftsman
1-1/2 Horse Power, 8 amp Router & Table.

I'm not familiar with that stuff, but I'd probably use the saw.

Clamp an auxiliary fence to cut the straight side of the rabbet
vertically:
http://www.americanwoodworker.com/aspx/Contentdetail.aspx?ContentId=4....

Then, cut the groove and angled side of the rabbet with the stock flat
on the table.

Get a 2'x4' sheet of MDF (around $6) to use for the tall fence, and
you'll also get a *bunch of very inexpensive stock to use for test
cuts on your setup. *

---------------------------------------------
**http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html***
---------------------------------------------

"Searcher7" wrote:

I count 5 plies. And a veneer was used to cover after the corners
were
rounded.(If I decide to round the corner, I guess I could use some Oak
veneer I also saw at HD & Lowes).

3/4" cabinet birch has 13 plys, available in 60"x60" sheets.

You WON'T find it at Lowes or H/D, but worth the effort to find it at
a plywood distributor.

BTW, what's left makes great jigs.

Lew

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 14:41:13 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
wrote:

What is your take on how the original control panel was made?
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...nel%20Project/

I count 5 plies. And a veneer was used to cover after the corners were
rounded.(If I decide to round the corner, I guess I could use some Oak
veneer I also saw at HD & Lowes).


From the photos, it looks like plain ol' decent quality sanded
plywood, wrapped with a vinyl or paper.

Be aware that plywood is very strong, and more stable than solid wood.
Most guitar amps, PA cabinets, pinball machines, wood jukeboxes,
instrument and equipment "flight" cases, etc... have plywood carcases
under a protective or decorative finish. The finish can be paint,
vinyl, melamine or other laminates, fine wood, even coated paper.

Your photos look exactly like every guitar amp I've seen with the
vinyl peeled off.

If you're wrapping it and the item isn't intended for portability, MDF
is a fantasically stable substrate with very friendly working
properties, as well as super cheap.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Jun 15, 6:49*pm, B A R R Y wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 14:41:13 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7

wrote:
What is your take on how the original control panel was made?
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Control%20pan...

I count 5 plies. And a veneer was used to cover after the corners were
rounded.(If I decide to round the corner, I guess I could use some Oak
veneer I also saw at HD & Lowes).

From the photos, it looks like plain ol' decent quality sanded
plywood, wrapped with a vinyl or paper.

Be aware that plywood is very strong, and more stable than solid wood.
Most guitar amps, PA cabinets, pinball machines, wood jukeboxes,
instrument and equipment "flight" cases, etc... *have plywood carcases
under a protective or decorative finish. *The finish can be paint,
vinyl, melamine or other laminates, fine wood, even coated paper.

Your photos look exactly like every guitar amp I've seen with the
vinyl peeled off.

If you're wrapping it and the item isn't intended for portability, MDF
is a fantasically stable substrate with very friendly working
properties, as well as super cheap.

---------------------------------------------
**http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html***
---------------------------------------------

The veneer in over the plywood in those pics is covered with vinyl
artwork.

When I had a lumber guy at HD look at the control panel some years
ago, he said he thought it was "BC plywood", which he didn't have.(Is
"BC plywood" the cabinet Birch plywood you are referring to?).

MDF is notoriously known for being what was used by game cabinet
manufacturers who were trying to cut costs.

Damage to these cabinets is almost always to the MDF portions.

And none of them ever used MDF for the control panel which is known to
take punishment.(And definitely don't get this material wet).

I should have taken pics of the 3/4" (4' x 8') Hardwood Birch Plywood
I saw at HD. The edges did look pretty solid.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Jun 15, 6:40*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote:
I count 5 plies. And a veneer was used to cover after the corners
were

rounded.(If I decide to round the corner, I guess I could use some Oak
veneer I also saw at HD & Lowes).

3/4" cabinet birch has 13 plys, available in 60"x60" sheets.

You WON'T find it at Lowes or H/D, but worth the effort to find it at
a plywood distributor.

BTW, what's left makes great jigs.

Lew

This is not 13 plies, but it seems to be similar to what you are
referring to, correct?: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...c h%20Plywood

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

"Searcher7" wrote:


This is not 13 plies, but it seems to be similar to what you are
referring to, correct?:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...c h%20Plywood


Not even close, it's like saying oranges and apples are equal.

THey are both plywood, but that's it.

You simply are not going to find quality plywood at H/D or Lowes.

Neither one are in the quality material business these days.

Lew

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 16:11:42 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
wrote:


When I had a lumber guy at HD look at the control panel some years
ago, he said he thought it was "BC plywood", which he didn't have.(Is
"BC plywood" the cabinet Birch plywood you are referring to?).


BC is pine plywood, with a "B" and a "C" grade face.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

I tried to e-mail you some diagrams on how to cut this last week. The
mail comes back returned. If you want them then drop me an e-mail
with your correct address.

btw, I've used birch plywood from HD for control panels before. I
haven't had a problem with large voids in it. I wouldn't build
furniture with it but for control panels it's fine. I'm sure you've
noticed voids in arcade cabinets you've worked on.

On Jun 16, 11:39*am, dayvo wrote:
I tried to e-mail you some diagrams on how to cut this last week. *The
mail comes back returned. *If you want them then drop me an e-mail
with your correct address.

btw, I've used birch plywood from HD for control panels before. *I
haven't had a problem with large voids in it. *I wouldn't build
furniture with it but for control panels it's fine. *I'm sure you've
noticed voids in arcade cabinets you've worked on.


E-mail sent.

The control panel in the pics I took have voids in it. I'm just trying
to make this the best way possible. And as bullet proof as possible.

I was just reading in "Woodshop Jigs & Fixtures"(Sandor Nagyszalanczy)
that many woodworkers prefer premium plywoods like Baltic Birch, Apple
Ply, and Maple Die board. So I wonder if the guys at the lumber yards
are familiar with all the common names for these materials.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

"Searcher7" wrote:

................................................. ..........
The control panel in the pics I took have voids in it. I'm just trying
to make this the best way possible. And as bullet proof as possible.
................................................. ..........

Go to a good lumber yard and take a look at MDO plywood, you might be
pleasantly surprised.

It is used for sign boards, has a paper skin on one or both sides, and
takes paint well.

Probably more expensive than whatever the Borg is selling, but less
expensive than 13 ply birch.

You can apply an appliqué over the paper since it will be a smooth,
solid surface.


Lew

On Jun 16, 10:20*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote:
................................................. ..........

The control panel in the pics I took have voids in it. I'm just trying
to make this the best way possible. And as bullet proof as possible.

................................................. ..........

Go to a good lumber yard and take a look at MDO plywood, you might be
pleasantly surprised.

It is used for sign boards, has a paper skin on one or both sides, and
takes paint well.

Probably more expensive than whatever the Borg is selling, but less
expensive than 13 ply birch.

You can apply an appliqué over the paper since it will be a smooth,
solid surface.

Lew

I checked two more lumber yards and could not find Baltic Birch.

So I'm thinking that perhaps I am over doing it. I see voids in the
plywood of the original control panel, which may be pine, so am I
correct in assuming that every plywood listed below would be
considered a step up?

I counted 11 plies in the Hardwood Birch plywood. And the UV Maple &
the Cherry cost a little more. And the cheapest was the Birch Boise
Cascade BMDD(Handy Panel).

3/4" (2' x 4') Hardwood Birch Plywood
3/4" (2' x 4') Hardwood Cherry Plywood
3/4" (2' x 4') Hardwood Primed Plywood
3/4" (2' x 4') Hardwood Red Oak Plywood
3/4" (2' x 4') Hardwood UV Maple Plywood
3/4" (2' x 4') Hardwood White Maple Plywood
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3/4" (2' x 4') Handy Panel Birch Boise Cascade BMDD
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3/4" (4' x 8') Sap Maple
3/4" (4' x 8') Sap Maple UV 2
3/4" (4' x 8') Hardwood A-I Cherry

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

"Searcher7" wrote:

I checked two more lumber yards and could not find Baltic Birch.

Where is the MDO info?

Lew

On Jun 22, 11:26*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote:

I checked two more lumber yards and could not find Baltic Birch.

Where is the MDO info?

Lew

I know nothing about MDO, and only asked about Baltic Birch over the
phone. I hadn't seen it during my visits to Home Depot and Lowes.

Is it cheaper and/or better than the plywoods I listed?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York

"Searcher7" wrote:

I know nothing about MDO, and only asked about Baltic Birch over the
phone. I hadn't seen it during my visits to Home Depot and Lowes.

Is it cheaper and/or better than the plywoods I listed?

Reply,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Go back and read my earlier post, info is all there.

Lew

On Jun 23, 8:30*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote:

I know nothing about MDO, and only asked about Baltic Birch over the
phone. I hadn't seen it during my visits to Home Depot and Lowes.

Is it cheaper and/or better than the plywoods I listed?

Reply,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Go back and read my earlier post, info is all there.

Lew

I don't know what the "Borg" is. I don't know how durable sign boards
are, but I will not be painting the finished project. And as far as my
application goes, strength where I join two pieces together lengthwise
is the main issue. In that respect, I still don't know how MDO
compares to the plywoods I listed.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

"Searcher7" wrote:


I don't know what the "Borg" is.
H/D, Lowes, etc.

I don't know how durable sign boards
are, but I will not be painting the finished project. And as far as my
application goes, strength where I join two pieces together lengthwise
is the main issue. In that respect, I still don't know how MDO
compares to the plywoods I listed.

There are lots of ways to get a strong joint with the right materials.

Physically go to a real lumber yard and look at some MDO.

Definitely NOT a Borg or home center item.



Lew

Searcher7 wrote:
On Jun 22, 11:26 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote:

I checked two more lumber yards and could not find Baltic Birch.

Where is the MDO info?

Lew

I know nothing about MDO, and only asked about Baltic Birch over the
phone. I hadn't seen it during my visits to Home Depot and Lowes.

Is it cheaper and/or better than the plywoods I listed?


I think what Lew is trying to say is that you may find it to be cheaper
than high-grade plywood, and since your cabinet/control panel isn't
going to be exposed to the elements/rain, it may be a viable alternative
for you.

It's not the same as 7 or 11 or 13 layer ply, but the fact that it has a
poly (or vinyl, or whatever artifical cover is on it) surface on one
side that is absolutely made for painting.. It'd probably be worth
trying to track some down and see it for yourself.

Then again, I could be wrong and he might be meaning something else, but
I suspect I'm semi-close to the mark.

Jason Buckler
Marietta, GA

On Jun 24, 12:39*am, Jason wrote:
Searcher7 wrote:
On Jun 22, 11:26 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote:

I checked two more lumber yards and could not find Baltic Birch.

Where is the MDO info?

Lew

I know nothing about MDO, and only asked about Baltic Birch over the
phone. I hadn't seen it during my visits to Home Depot and Lowes.

Is it cheaper and/or better than the plywoods I listed?

I think what Lew is trying to say is that you may find it to be cheaper
than high-grade plywood, and since your cabinet/control panel isn't
going to be exposed to the elements/rain, it may be a viable alternative
for you.

Yes, he did say it would be cheaper than Baltic Birch plywood. MDO is
supposed to be an exterior grade plywood, so I guess that exposure to
the elements shouldn't be a problem anyway.

Nevertheless, if I can't make a stronger joint than with all the all
the materials I listed, then I can't see it being worth the higher
cost.

It's not the same as 7 or 11 or 13 layer ply, but the fact that it has a
poly (or vinyl, or whatever artifical cover is on it) surface on one
side that is absolutely made for painting.. *It'd probably be worth
trying to track some down and see it for yourself.

That wouldn't be an advantage for me, since I will not be painting the
finished project.

In fact, since I intend to put adhesive vinyl on it that means I'd
have to round over the entire length.(I hope that compromising the
surface layer of the MDO that way won't create a problem?

Perhaps I should go with a bevel box joint instead of the groove/
rabbet.

Any ideas what material I should use as a glue block?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.