I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

On Nov 30, 3:04 pm, "Leon" wrote:
I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

as soon as the paper starts to load up- before it gets glazed on-
change out the strip. collect the dirty ones and soak them for 15
minutes in hot water with a little washing soda. before they dry scrub
them down with a stiff bristle brush.

making your own is good practice and commonly done.

I have heard that soaking in Simple Green is pretty good. Haven't
tried it but I have heard more than one person swear by it.

On Nov 30, 2:04 pm, "Leon" wrote:
I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

On Nov 30, 5:04 pm, "Leon" wrote:
I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

Sandblasting cabinet.

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 16:04:52 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

I've been working with bocote lately and had the same problem on my 1" belt
sander, disk sander and 2" H&L on the lathe..
Found out accidentally, buy forgetting to clean the paper, that sanding a dryer
wood takes most of the oily stuff off and then the crepe block/stick works
fine..
I keep some pine scraps handy now..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

wrote in message
...


as soon as the paper starts to load up- before it gets glazed on-
change out the strip. collect the dirty ones and soak them for 15
minutes in hot water with a little washing soda. before they dry scrub
them down with a stiff bristle brush.

making your own is good practice and commonly done.

Ok, thanks, I'll keep that in mind as it is probably too late now.
Unfortunately this happened on 1 board and I had probably made several
hundred passes with maple, and a few of mesquite, and zircote. Fortunately
I ran the bocote last.

I'll keep that in mind also, thanks.


"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
I have heard that soaking in Simple Green is pretty good. Haven't
tried it but I have heard more than one person swear by it.

On Nov 30, 2:04 pm, "Leon" wrote:
I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for
cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is
extremely
oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in
thinner,
has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180
grit
and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these
strips
are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

"Ferd Farkel" wrote in message
...
On Nov 30, 5:04 pm, "Leon" wrote:
I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for
cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is
extremely
oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in
thinner,
has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180
grit
and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these
strips
are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

Sandblasting cabinet.

Yeah, I don't think so. ;~) That's a bit more expensive that replacing the
paper.

Leon wrote:
I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for
cleaning sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and
leaves the smooth paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today
and that stuff is extremely oily. My belt loaded up and I was able
to remove 80% of the build up but the rest will not come off. I
have heard of soaking the paper in thinner, has any one done this?

Paint thinner, no...lacquer thinner, yes. I just stick a rolled up
strip in a small coffee can of lacquer thinner which dissolves the
resins/oils that causes the glazing. When you take it out the sawdust
will still be on the strip but they'll come off easily with a cleaning
stick.
______________

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

Lord, YES!! You save a bunch buying 50 yard rolls and it just takes a
moment to cut a new wrap when you need it...just lay the old one on
the roll and scratch the outline of the ends, then cut.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Leon" wrote in message
...
I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is
extremely oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the
build up but the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper
in thinner, has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but
this is 180 grit and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and
IIRC these strips are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?


The long strips work fine, and with the Performax they even give you the
measurements and angles to use. I get mine from Klingspor. Measurements is
why you want to avoid water-based soaking if possible. It will change the
dimensions, where non-polar solvents like mineral spirits generally won't.
Keep a brass-bristle brush on hand to give a bit of extra oomph to cleaning
the burned-in areas after you soften them. You might, if that's not
working, try spot-treating with a saturated solution of water-based
surfactant like TSP or NaMetasilicate to develop slime to remove with the
brush. Avoids most of the problems with cloth backing because the resin
that holds the grit will keep it from getting into the cloth if you don't
soak, but work from the front.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Afb4j.328$gi7.81@trnddc04...


Paint thinner, no...lacquer thinner, yes. I just stick a rolled up
strip in a small coffee can of lacquer thinner which dissolves the
resins/oils that causes the glazing. When you take it out the sawdust
will still be on the strip but they'll come off easily with a cleaning
stick.
______________

Thank you sir, I'll try it.




Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

Lord, YES!! You save a bunch buying 50 yard rolls and it just takes a
moment to cut a new wrap when you need it...just lay the old one on
the roll and scratch the outline of the ends, then cut.

Where do you get your longer paper rolls, any place in particular?




--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"George" wrote in message
. net...



The long strips work fine, and with the Performax they even give you the
measurements and angles to use. I get mine from Klingspor. Measurements
is why you want to avoid water-based soaking if possible. It will change
the dimensions, where non-polar solvents like mineral spirits generally
won't. Keep a brass-bristle brush on hand to give a bit of extra oomph to
cleaning the burned-in areas after you soften them. You might, if that's
not working, try spot-treating with a saturated solution of water-based
surfactant like TSP or NaMetasilicate to develop slime to remove with the
brush. Avoids most of the problems with cloth backing because the resin
that holds the grit will keep it from getting into the cloth if you don't
soak, but work from the front.

Thank you George.

Leon wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Afb4j.328$gi7.81@trnddc04...


Paint thinner, no...lacquer thinner, yes. I just stick a rolled up
strip in a small coffee can of lacquer thinner which dissolves the
resins/oils that causes the glazing. When you take it out the
sawdust will still be on the strip but they'll come off easily
with a cleaning stick.
______________

Thank you sir, I'll try it.




Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

Lord, YES!! You save a bunch buying 50 yard rolls and it just
takes a moment to cut a new wrap when you need it...just lay the
old one on the roll and scratch the outline of the ends, then cut.

Where do you get your longer paper rolls, any place in particular?

I get mine here. Best prices I've found, service is fine. Not paper
though, cloth backed.

Watch the wrap...
http://www.econabrasives.com/index.m...Code=EA&Catego
ry_Code=Rolls_AbrasiveRolls_FullRolls

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Xwd4j.10734$AX6.6020@trnddc07...

Where do you get your longer paper rolls, any place in particular?

I get mine here. Best prices I've found, service is fine. Not paper
though, cloth backed.

Watch the wrap...
http://www.econabrasives.com/index.m...Code=EA&Catego
ry_Code=Rolls_AbrasiveRolls_FullRolls



Wow, they are cheap. Fr about 50% more money I can get 500% more paper if I
cut it myself.

Thanks Bob I'll keep that in mind also. I just so happen to have some PVC
pipe on hand. I'll try that first.


"BobS" wrote in message
...


Leon,

Here's the protocol I use for cleaning

1. Gummy stick
2. PVC pipe
3. Solvent (mineral spirits)

No one has mention using PVC pipe yet so I'll explain. I have the 16/32
Performax and when the paper gets loaded with sap - only a good soaking
seems to work. But for just about everything else, and when the gummy
stick isn't enough, I use a 1-1/2 or 2" diameter section of PVC pipe. You
press the round end of the pipe into the paper (lightly) and move it back
and fourth across the drum. If you get to heavy on the pressure, you'll
start melting the PVC.

It's stiffer than the gummy sticks and works pretty well too. I've not
found any single method of cleaning that works for everything.

As for buying long rolls and cutting the strips - hell yes, it's the only
way to go.....;-) Good heavy weight papers are the way to save money.
The paper will last a lot longer if you take light passes and keep it
clean. Once you get sap on it, clean it off with some mineral spirits.
Throw a cloth under the drum, get an old toothbrush or other nylon brush
and dab on some mineral spirits to clean it off. If that doesn't do it,
then remove the roll and soak it in mineral spirits.

Bob S.

On Dec 2, 4:17 pm, "Leon" wrote:
Thanks Bob I'll keep that in mind also. I just so happen to have some PVC
pipe on hand. I'll try that first.

"BobS" wrote in message

...





Leon,

Here's the protocol I use for cleaning

1. Gummy stick
2. PVC pipe
3. Solvent (mineral spirits)

No one has mention using PVC pipe yet so I'll explain. I have the 16/32
Performax and when the paper gets loaded with sap - only a good soaking
seems to work. But for just about everything else, and when the gummy
stick isn't enough, I use a 1-1/2 or 2" diameter section of PVC pipe. You
press the round end of the pipe into the paper (lightly) and move it back
and fourth across the drum. If you get to heavy on the pressure, you'll
start melting the PVC.

It's stiffer than the gummy sticks and works pretty well too. I've not
found any single method of cleaning that works for everything.

As for buying long rolls and cutting the strips - hell yes, it's the only
way to go.....;-) Good heavy weight papers are the way to save money.
The paper will last a lot longer if you take light passes and keep it
clean. Once you get sap on it, clean it off with some mineral spirits.
Throw a cloth under the drum, get an old toothbrush or other nylon brush
and dab on some mineral spirits to clean it off. If that doesn't do it,
then remove the roll and soak it in mineral spirits.

Bob S.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Buy a package of the ornage or yellow plastic tree felling (chainsaw
use, usually made and marketed by Oregon) wedges that are sold two per
pack in big box stores like Lowes etc. They are much better at
cleaning out junk from abrasive belts than a rubber stick can dream
of. Cheaper and make less mess and last a long time too. They remove
paint, residue from woods, metals etc very easy and more efficieintly
than a rubber based device.

"Tristie" wrote in message
...


Buy a package of the ornage or yellow plastic tree felling (chainsaw
use, usually made and marketed by Oregon) wedges that are sold two per
pack in big box stores like Lowes etc. They are much better at
cleaning out junk from abrasive belts than a rubber stick can dream
of. Cheaper and make less mess and last a long time too. They remove
paint, residue from woods, metals etc very easy and more efficieintly
than a rubber based device.

I have been using the rubber sticks 20+ yars and for the most part they do
what I need them to do. They do not do well when the paper gets heavily
coated however and I'll keep the wedges in mind. Thank you.