I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where your
only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I get a
new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?

2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw to
make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would love
some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to it at
all.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.

"Thomas G. Marshall" . com
wrote in message news:Vbhwi.15513$ZW4.12210@trndny04...

I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where
your only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I
get a new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?

You might want to rethink that. You have now publicly documented that your
saw has a safety issue. In this sue happy society you may be held
resposable if some one cuts their finger off.


2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw
to make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would
love some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to
it at all.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.

I would look at any of the better brand saws. If you want really nice and a
more precise cutting saw, consider the Festool, but not for common
construction type cutting.

On 14 Aug, 08:26, "Thomas G. Marshall"
. com wrote:
I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where your
only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I get a
new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?

2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw to
make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would love
some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to it at
all.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.

Search this group for circular saw. Many threads with user's opinions.
Consider a left blade model if you're right handed. Your eyes will be
on the same side of the saw as the blade, making it easier to see the
cut line. Strictly a user preference. I love my Porter Cable left
blade model.

Thomas G. Marshall wrote:
I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where your
only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I get a
new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?

In general I recommend only buying what you at least have an opportunity
to handle beforehand if those kinds of issues are of significance to
you. Personally, I won't have a saw, etc., that requires a second
safety switch to operate as I've never seen one that wasn't a real pita
to use.

That said, there are good, not-so-good, and downright terrible switch
designs and locations so that's one thing to evaluate for sure. As
important is the handle size and the overall heft and balance. Whether
your hands are large or small, some handles just don't work well for a
particular individual which makes good work more difficult.

As for blade size, is what you have adequate for what you've been doing
or foresee doing? If so, sounds good. If not, it's a different group
of saws you'll be looking for. Larger means more heft which can be
good, but also can be a problem from being more to lug around all day, etc.

2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw to
make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would love
some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to it at
all.

The sole plate is key component. More rigidity means either more mass
or stiffer alloys or both. Inexpensive saws use Al for reduced overall
weight and lose out on rigidity.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.

I don't have any real favorites -- what is handy is generally ok
although I buy from the supply places, not W-Mart or Big Lot's junk bins
or the $2 bin at the Ace. Most of what I have at the moment are Makita
but that's because it's the brand the farm supply which I frequent most
carries as their main line. I probably have one of most anything, no
real favorites other than one that is straight and sharp.

As someone else already noted, there are interminable threads on the
subject and I've noted previously I am partial to the ol' Skill Mag 77,
but it's not a casual saw. I have a 50+ yr old B&D of Dad's that still
use for that sort of thing so don't have a recently built model to
recommend specifically...

--

Not really a recommendation, but a couple thoughts on the subject;

Yes, 7-1/4 is the "normal" size That's what you want; it will allow you to
cut up to 2-by nominal stock at a 45-degree bevel.

Yes, you go want get a saw with a ridgid shoe. Stamped steel is what you
want to avoid. Better saws have cast aluminum or a magnesium alloy shoe. You
will be be able to identify this by thickness and soem degree of cast
webbing in the top surface.

I can't even tell you if my Porter Cable has a "safety"... if it's there, I
just use it instinctively.

Go to a store and touch them. They have to feel right in your hand. Weight
is also a significant factor. You pay more for that magnesium alloy shoe to
cut down the weight a bit.

Other things to consider: left vs right handded (lefties are not just for
left-handed people, DAGS), and if the saw should have a brake.

Cheers,

Steve



"Thomas G. Marshall" . com
wrote in message news:Vbhwi.15513$ZW4.12210@trndny04...

I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where
your only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I
get a new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?

2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw
to make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would
love some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to
it at all.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Thomas G. Marshall wrote:

| 2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for
| general purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.

I have two portable circular saws - the first is a cheap ($15) Skil
that I bought back in the sixties, and the second is a small
Porter-Cable saw.

The Skil looks, feels, and sounds like a POS - but it cuts well and
has refused to die for more than 40 years now. I guess I'll put up
with it until either it or I die (the damn thing may outlast me).

The PC (see the 6th photo down at the link below) has a smaller blade
but has been at least 200 times more used in my woodworking. It looks,
feels, sounds, and cuts like I've always thought every saw should.
IMO, it's the portable complement to my old Unisaur.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/outfeed.html

I too have an old Skil that won't die, but with a good thin kerf blade
(see below), it cuts just fine. If I were in the market for a new
saw, I'd strongly consider one of the smaller corded models - like the
Skil 1155 or the PC 345 (and the PC 314 Morris mentioned looks very
nice too). I find that most of the cutting I do is in material less
than ~1.5" thick, and the lighter weight would be a nice benefit and
possibly even a safety feature (it would reduce fatigue, and maybe you
wouldn't accidentally trip the trigger on a smaller lighter saw?).

As far as trigger/safety designs, I'll second the recommendation to
try out as many models as you can locally, or order online but be
prepared to make a return if you're not completely happy. My Skil has
a thumb button that must be pressed before the trigger will go, and
I've appreciated that feature several times while picking up the saw
and accidentally hitting the trigger. I don't find the thumb button
to be inconvenient, but I suppose that depends completely on the shape
and size of your hands.

As for blades, I'm currently running a 7-1/4", 40T Freud "Diablo" that
I got at one of the borgs for $15. I find it cuts VERY cleanly (even
in baltic birch, laminate, etc.) and quite quickly, and has lasted a
long time. I once tried a 60T Oldham blade, but the thicker kerf and
smaller bite bogged down my old saw. I've heard that Tenryu and
Matsu****a make very good blades, but haven't tried them yet.
Hope this helps,
Andy

Andy wrote:
....
As far as trigger/safety designs, I'll second the recommendation to
try out as many models as you can locally, or order online but be
prepared to make a return if you're not completely happy. My Skil has
a thumb button that must be pressed before the trigger will go, and
I've appreciated that feature several times while picking up the saw
and accidentally hitting the trigger. I don't find the thumb button
to be inconvenient, but I suppose that depends completely on the shape
and size of your hands.
....

And, unless they're very well done or the saw comes in right- and/or
lefthanded versions, for the lefty they can make a tool completely
unusable for their natural hand...

dntamhikt...

--

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
ps.com...


Search this group for circular saw. Many threads with user's opinions.
Consider a left blade model if you're right handed. Your eyes will be
on the same side of the saw as the blade, making it easier to see the
cut line. Strictly a user preference. I love my Porter Cable left
blade model.

The draw back to using the left blade, right handed or the right blade left
handed for that matter is that while you can see the blade better you also
put your eye sight at risk from debris that is thrown out and basically your
hole body at risk because you are standing on the wrong side of the saw. If
the saw climbs out of the cut and comes backward you are right in line of
its path.
Consider also that if you are cutting a few inches off the length of a board
the saw body, wide part of the base/shoe should be setting on the keeper
piece. Using the proper right blade with your right hand lets your left
hand hold on to he keeper piece. That would be hard to so with a left
sided saw.

I think you need to go looking for some Consumer's reports type of
evaluation for those 7 1/4" saws. Wood mag has probably done these
saws from time to time. Those articles may not always be perfect for
YOU, but they sure can help.

I also would like to actually try the saw out first. Some years ago
I bought a low priced Skil and for some reason, it has horrible
"balance". By that I mean that when you push it forward through the
wood, it just doesn't want to cut straight. I have to apply "English"
with my wrist to get it to go somewhat straight. (Yes, I have tried
different blades). I'm not saying that ALL Skil brand saws are bad, but
that one sure is a looser. I only use it for cutting sheet steel,
hoping that the shavings will get into the works and destroy it asap.

A few years ago I got a used B&D saw at an auction and it doesn't
behave this way at all. (so I use it almost all the time).

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------


Thomas G. Marshall wrote:

I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where your
only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I get a
new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?

2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw to
make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would love
some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to it at
all.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 12:26:29 +0000, Thomas G. Marshall wrote:


I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where your
only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I get a
new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?

2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw to
make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would love
some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to it at
all.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.

Cordless Saw I'd reccomend is the Skil 5850 18V cordless 7-1/4" Circ saw.
Corded Saw I'd reccomend is the Bosch CS10 7-1/4" Circ Saw.

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 09:46:29 -0400, "Stephen M"
wrote:
snip
Other things to consider: left vs right handded (lefties are not just for
left-handed people, DAGS), and if the saw should have a brake.

Cheers,

Steve

Over the years, safety interlocks and handle design have pretty much taught this
lefty to work right handed..

On both of my circular saws and both chair saws, to use it left handed not only
make the balance and vision off, but you pretty much have to reach over with
your right hand to press the safety switch...

I probably have more tools that are anti-correct handed, but those 2 come to
mind..

Things to consider in a new saw?
PRICE and USE

Buy the best that you can afford, suitable to your use..

Too fancy or too heavy is overkill for light, occasional work, IMO..

If you plan on using it a lot, buy a "better brand" model with enough power and
options to do the job over the long haul..
For a few times a year or so, buy a nice used one and enjoy it.. YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"DerbyDad03" wrote

Search this group for circular saw. Many threads with user's opinions.
Consider a left blade model if you're right handed. Your eyes will be
on the same side of the saw as the blade, making it easier to see the
cut line. Strictly a user preference. I love my Porter Cable left
blade model.

I love my left blade Milwaukee. I made cutting guides in 3 sizes. 1 - 100",
1 - 54", 1 - 30".

Max

Other people have commented about a safety button to push. I don't
particularly like them either. My Porter Cable circular saw has a
great handle design though. The trigger has its own partition in the
handle, so when you pick it up by the handle you don't pull the
trigger. You can see this in pictures on the porter cable website.

One complaint I have is that the motor housing is low, making it
difficult to use a speed square as a straight edge because the motor
housing hits the lip of the speed square.


On Aug 14, 8:26 am, "Thomas G. Marshall"
. com wrote:
I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where your
only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I get a
new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?

2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw to
make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would love
some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to it at
all.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.

Chris said something like:

On Aug 14, 8:26 am, "Thomas G. Marshall"
. com wrote:
I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting
probably far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with
it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a
couple times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger
right where your only hand-hold is.

....[rip]...

Other people have commented about a safety button to push. I don't
particularly like them either. My Porter Cable circular saw has a
great handle design though. The trigger has its own partition in the
handle, so when you pick it up by the handle you don't pull the
trigger. You can see this in pictures on the porter cable website.

One complaint I have is that the motor housing is low, making it
difficult to use a speed square as a straight edge because the motor
housing hits the lip of the speed square.

That's the problem I have with my B&D, though I can move it out of the way
by adjusting the blade depth, but only for 1 1/2 " cuts or less. The speed
squares I have and have seen have too tall a lip on them anyway, IMHO. And
there really ought to be two squares, with the lip only on one side so there
is nothing on the top side to bang into (one with the lip going one way, the
other with it going the other way).

"Thomas G. Marshall" . com
wrote in message news:Vbhwi.15513$ZW4.12210@trndny04...

I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where
your only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I
get a new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?


7¼ inch is the standard size.

2. The metal decking of the thing has give to it. So even when doing a
simple 90° cut, the slightest uneven downward pressure can cause the saw
to make this weird compound angle. Arrrrrgh that is frustrating. I would
love some sort of metal plate on my new saw that does not have any flex to
it at all.

2b. Could anyone please give me a competent blade model too for general
purpose things. BD's Pirrana is what I'm currently using.


Check out Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Makita, Skil Worm drive (NOT the standard
circular saw), and Dewalt. The new kid on the block is Hilti. No comments
on it.

Thomas G. Marshall wrote:
I am currently using a black and decker circular saw for cutting probably
far more than I should with it. Two glaring problems with it.

1. No safety interlock. Just great. I almost crapped my shorts a couple
times picking the thing up with it's over sensitive trigger right where your
only hand-hold is. Jeepers. It's going on craigslist as soon as I get a
new one. 7¼ inch is the current thing. That a useful size?


All the skilsaws I know work that way. I make it a point to unplug the
tool before changing blades or fiddling with it.

David Starr