Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
Delta...

I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw recently,
this seemed like the next step...

Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips, warnings,
"don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.

I think a few of you were born using them (-;

Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...

So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in the
carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the cutter
head and such, as called for in the manual...

I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the requires
it....
I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book shelves!

TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw
recently,
this seemed like the next step...

snip

TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


Never plane to much off of one face at a time. The board will begin to bow
in the direction of the face being planed. DAMHIKT!

NEVER plane a board that is to short. It can kick throw the board back at
you into your fingers that are pushing the board. DAMHIKT!

Don't feed your fingers into the planer knives!

Learn how to sharpen your own knives. See my web page below:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/jigsfixtures.htm


--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

"mac davis" wrote in message

TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


Dust collector
Small bites each pass
Be sure there are no nails in the board. Not that I'd ever do that, but
I've heard of it happening to others

" Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures
of a
Delta...

snip

Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips,
warnings,
"don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.

I think a few of you were born using them (-;
snip

Now wouldn't THAT be a sight???

.....10 pounds, 24" long and he's already building his own crib and changing
table. Wonder if he'll use poly of BLO for the finish...


TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


mac

No clue as to if the Ridgid has any "special" tips, but for planers in
general...

1) Cut stock a few inches long...there is no such thing as totally snip
free planing.

2) If possible, run boards end to end thru the machine..this will go a long
way to giving you snipe free planing.

3) Watch the grain direction. If you get little chips that pull out of the
face as you plane, flip the board end for end and run it thru that
way...sometimes it just moves the chipping to the other direction, but often
it'll work. If not, take lighter cuts and lightly mist with plain water
before each cut. read again LIGHTLY MIST...you do NOT want a wet board, just
a slightly damp surface.

4) When starting the board, slightly lift the out board end until the
starting end is under the outfeed roller...then again, lightly lift the end
just as it's coming thru. This can help reduce the amount of snipe on the
start and end of the board.

5) NEVER try to plane a short board. I never try to plane a board shorter
the half again what the book says is the minimum....my delta book says 12"
so I never go under 18" long. I go to the drum sander under that. Same
thing with the thickness...I never go under 3/8". Am I being a chicken about
it? Yes, and I don't care...I've had my share on cuts and bruises over the
years from things that were avoidable, I see no reason to open myself up to
more now that I've finally gotten a little smarter.

Are there other things to know??? Oh god, yes...and I'm sure that there are
others out there that'll helpp fill in the blanks.


Luck

Mike

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 09:20:06 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
Delta...

I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw recently,
this seemed like the next step...

Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips, warnings,
"don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.

I think a few of you were born using them (-;

Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...

So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in the
carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the cutter
head and such, as called for in the manual...

I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the requires
it....
I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book shelves!

TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


You've gotten good advice, but I'll ditto the short board ban. Tried
to "cheat" a short board through once. Bruise hand healed fairly well
in about ten days.

Frank

"mac davis" wrote in message
...


TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"IF" during use you ever loose power to the planer, "turn the planer off"
and remove the wood before the power comes back on or before you plug it
back in. If the blades comes to a stop against the wood they may not spin
when the motor comes back on and the blade drive belt will burn up.
DAKMHIKT

mac davis wrote:
Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
Delta...

I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw recently,
this seemed like the next step...

Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips, warnings,
"don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.

I think a few of you were born using them (-;

Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...

So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in the
carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the cutter
head and such, as called for in the manual...

I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the requires
it....
I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book shelves!

TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

What? The first thing to do is turn it on.

- S

mac davis wrote:

| Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and
| tips, warnings, "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use
| them.

Bolt the planer to the stand. Lock the casters. Turn the power on...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Morris Dovey wrote:

Bolt the planer to the stand. Lock the casters. Turn the power on...

Repeating what others have said, take light cuts and start with boards
that are longer than are required.

SNIPE HAPPENS.

Lew

Sat, Jun 23, 2007, 9:20am (EDT-3)
(mac*davis) doth sayeth
snip Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and
tips, warnings, "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.
snip

Questions like this still continue to amaze me. I don't know if
it's because of he way I was brought up, my Army time, or different
generations. When I got my planer I already knew to keep my fingers out
of it, and to not plane nails. So i just started using it.

OK, here's your adice. Read the manual. Keep your fingers out of
it. Don''t plane anything wth metal in it. After that, you're on your
own.



JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 12:37:25 -0500, Frank Boettcher
wrote:

You've gotten good advice, but I'll ditto the short board ban. Tried
to "cheat" a short board through once. Bruise hand healed fairly well
in about ten days.

Frank

The manual says min. 14"...

My brother is supposed to be posting a picture for me of a sled that he uses???


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 16:43:44 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message

TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


Dust collector
Small bites each pass
Be sure there are no nails in the board. Not that I'd ever do that, but
I've heard of it happening to others

Thanks, Ed...

No DC in this case, (unless it helps to clear chips from inside planer?), the
messy tools are outside with a nice desert breeze blowing..

small bites meaning cutting depth, right?

(note to self: check battery in stud finder)



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 11:52:28 -0500, "The Davenport's"
wrote:

1) Cut stock a few inches long...there is no such thing as totally snip free planing.

hmm... good idea... the manual says to cut the "depressed ends" off.... sort of
makes you change all your plans & drawings if you have to do that!

2) If possible, run boards end to end thru the machine..this will go a long
way to giving you snipe free planing.

AHA! It says "with the grain" in several places... I sort of figured end to end,
but nice to be sure...

3) Watch the grain direction. If you get little chips that pull out of the
face as you plane, flip the board end for end and run it thru that
way...sometimes it just moves the chipping to the other direction, but often
it'll work. If not, take lighter cuts and lightly mist with plain water
before each cut. read again LIGHTLY MIST...you do NOT want a wet board, just
a slightly damp surface.

Cool... might also fit in with "with the grain"..

4) When starting the board, slightly lift the out board end until the
starting end is under the outfeed roller...then again, lightly lift the end
just as it's coming thru. This can help reduce the amount of snipe on the
start and end of the board.

I can see that I'll be trying that with some scraps... and from the SIDE... *g*

thanks, Mike..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 12:50:30 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .


TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"IF" during use you ever loose power to the planer, "turn the planer off"
and remove the wood before the power comes back on or before you plug it
back in. If the blades comes to a stop against the wood they may not spin
when the motor comes back on and the blade drive belt will burn up.
DAKMHIKT

Damn good point, Leon... I hadn't even thought that it would go back on with the
power...

Last night, the power went off 3 times within a few hours... usually for maybe a
min. or so, but enough to really think about your tip!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 14:26:37 -0500, "Morris Dovey" wrote:

mac davis wrote:

| Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and
| tips, warnings, "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use
| them.

Bolt the planer to the stand. Lock the casters. Turn the power on...

well, 2 outta 3 aren't bad... lol

I guess I should at least make sure it runs..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

1) Cut stock a few inches long...there is no such thing as totally snip
free planing.

hmm... good idea... the manual says to cut the "depressed ends" off....
sort of
makes you change all your plans & drawings if you have to do that!


Only a little, as you shouldn't be using the planer much except at the very
begining of a project. An we're only talking about 1 1/2 to 2". What I'll do
when I've got a large project strarting up is joint the plane all my stock
and I"ll have 2 extra pieces of stock 18-24 inches long and those are the
first and last pieces thru the planer before I change the cut depth. Mark
them or use a different material so that you know which is what.

One thing to bear in mind that I missed before and I don't think anyone
caught...you didn't mention a jointer, so that should be your next purchase,
I think. A planer will not flatten nor straighten lumber...a jointer will.

Mike

Larry Kraus wrote in
:

mac davis wrote:

No DC in this case, (unless it helps to clear chips from inside
planer?), the messy tools are outside with a nice desert breeze
blowing..
Without DC, the rollers on some planers can press the shavings into
the wood, causing dents. Also, planers create very large amounts of
shavings, so you may find a snow shovel useful...


Without a DC, at least use a shop vac, preferably with a drop box, to pull
out the shavings. And there will be a LOT of shavings on most wood. We
did a bunch of redwood for one of my son's projects last month, and got
perhaps 5 garbage bags of shavings, which now mulch under the roses in the
back yard.

These are supposed to be replaceable, two-sided blades, and they are. But
I've taken to honing them with 600 grit wet/dry, wrapped around a block of
maple, and reinstalling them. Works pretty well. I've been cycling 3 sets
of blades on mine for 6 or 7 years, working mostly in oak and maple.

It's a good machine, but it will have a problem if it runs into a
temporarily stupid operator. Then you have to wait three days for the $3
part to get FedExed in from Ridgid Central. Could be more of a problem if
you've run away to rural Mexico... ;-)

I've used the similar Delta a lot, and certainly wouldn't trade my Ridgid
for one. Money well spent.

Enjoy yours, Mac!

Patriarch

mac davis wrote:
Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
Delta...



Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. The best thing I did for my Delta
was get a plastic fitting that allowed me to channel the shavings into my dust
collector. What used to be a huge PITA is no longer a big deal at all.




--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com

Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 4:44am mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
(Mortimer*Schnerd,*RN) doth sayeth:
Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. snip

That's a good thing. Cushions the floor. At one point after I
first got my wood lathe my floor got almost knee deep in shavings.
Didn't actually make anything doing that, just practice, but loads of
fun.



JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton

Stoutman .@. wrote:

NEVER plane a board that is to short. It can kick throw the board back at
you into your fingers that are pushing the board. DAMHIKT!

You probably all ready know this one, but for the original poster,
this might be new . . .

Typically, you don't want to put anything through the planer that's
less than about 12". If you do need to plane something that is less
than 12", an easy and safe way to do it is to glue on some side
runners that are 12" long. If you've got a piece that's say 6" long and
then add two 12" pieces on each of the edges, it might look something
like this bit of ASCII art:

+-+ +-+
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |+------+| |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |+------+| |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
+-+ +-+


After getting the piece to the desired thickness, just cut off the
side runners.

--

If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
remove ".invalid".

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:44:32 GMT, Larry Kraus wrote:

mac davis wrote:

No DC in this case, (unless it helps to clear chips from inside planer?), the
messy tools are outside with a nice desert breeze blowing..
Without DC, the rollers on some planers can press the shavings into
the wood, causing dents. Also, planers create very large amounts of
shavings, so you may find a snow shovel useful...

Thanks.. sort of why I asked, because the planer doesn't have much of a manual,
but suggested something like that to keep rollers clean..

Seemed like they were saying that it helps the rollers either during or after
use, couldn't really be sure..

Closest Home Depot is over 3 hours away and involves a border crossing that
isn't tool friendly, so I want try to prevent as many 'operator errors" as I
can...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 21:07:02 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:


Without a DC, at least use a shop vac, preferably with a drop box, to pull
out the shavings. And there will be a LOT of shavings on most wood. We
did a bunch of redwood for one of my son's projects last month, and got
perhaps 5 garbage bags of shavings, which now mulch under the roses in the
back yard.

It sounds like I need to run a DC hose outside... sort of an interesting
logistical problem in the world of durawall houses and scorpions.. *g*

It's a good machine, but it will have a problem if it runs into a
temporarily stupid operator.

The exact reason for this thread... IMO, it's better to ask a stupid question
then make a mistake because you were too stupid to ask...

Then you have to wait three days for the $3 part to get FedExed in from Ridgid Central. Could be more of a problem if
you've run away to rural Mexico... ;-)

Yep.. unless they send it by mail, which ridgid won't, I have stuff like that
sent to someone in the states and then brought or mailed down...

I've used the similar Delta a lot, and certainly wouldn't trade my Ridgid
for one. Money well spent.

It seems like a real nice machine....
I was trying to get the Dewalt with 3 blades on a lot of recommendations here,
but the ridgid was rated really high, less bucks and it's a lot easier to get HD
stuff here than Delta or Dewalt... (it's a bitch getting jet parts for the
lathes)

Enjoy yours, Mac!

Thanks.. I feel a lot better already and trying to figure out which project for
the wife is next.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 18:49:18 -0500, "The Davenport's"
wrote:

One thing to bear in mind that I missed before and I don't think anyone
caught...you didn't mention a jointer, so that should be your next purchase,
I think. A planer will not flatten nor straighten lumber...a jointer will.

Mike

I considered one, Mike, but don't have the budget for one yet... or the room,
until I sell or give away the RAS and bench TS...

I've made an adjustable "jointing fence" for the TS from ideas ripped off from 2
or 3 wREC'ers web sites...(thanks Morris)
I think that will get me by as long as I'm using lumber yard stock..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 04:44:56 -0400, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:

mac davis wrote:
Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures of a
Delta...



Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. The best thing I did for my Delta
was get a plastic fitting that allowed me to channel the shavings into my dust
collector. What used to be a huge PITA is no longer a big deal at all.

Thanks... this planer comes with a pretty trick setup for DC... has a sort of
shroud that fits 4" hose on one end and 2 1/2" on the other, with a reversible
cap to plug the one you're not using..

I guess the reason that I wasn't going to use the DC was that everyone refers to
"shavings" and I know that a DC on a lathe is useless because it just clogs the
hose with shavings...
I would hope that the shavings from the planer are shorter/smaller, especially
with light cuts..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 06:58:51 -0400, (J T) wrote:

Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 4:44am mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
(Mortimer*Schnerd,*RN) doth sayeth:
Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. snip

That's a good thing. Cushions the floor. At one point after I
first got my wood lathe my floor got almost knee deep in shavings.
Didn't actually make anything doing that, just practice, but loads of
fun.


lol.. one of my turning mentors lives in NY and says that the shaving on the
floor keep his feet warm...
Must be a bitch when you drop something in the shavings, though... especially if
it's not something that you can find with a magnet..

In the states, 4 or 5 inches of shavings around the lathe was pretty normal, and
when I was turning green stuff I had shaving on the bench, tools, ceiling,
etc...

Different in the new house because the shop is inside the house and I try to
keep stuff from getting tracked into the other rooms..
I wanted to spray endust on a couple of the cats that hang out in the shop, but
my wife sort of lost her sense of humor when I suggested that...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the pictures
of a
Delta...

I've never had or used one before but since I got a real table saw
recently,
this seemed like the next step...

Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and tips,
warnings,
"don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use them.

I think a few of you were born using them (-;

Ridgid tp1300 13" planer...

So far, I've put the stand together, put BIG casters on it, (it goes in
the
carport on a packed dirt floor), adjusted the infeed/outfeed tables, the
cutter
head and such, as called for in the manual...

I haven't turned it on yet... waiting for advice and a project the
requires
it....
I sure wish I had it last month when I made the wife 3 sets of book
shelves!

TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..


mac

Please remove splinters before emaili


I always wear safety glasses (habit while in the shop) and hearing
protection.
I have prescription safety glasses, with side shields.

"mac davis" wrote in message

I guess the reason that I wasn't going to use the DC was that everyone
refers to
"shavings" and I know that a DC on a lathe is useless because it just
clogs the
hose with shavings...
I would hope that the shavings from the planer are shorter/smaller,
especially
with light cuts..

I made one pass on my planer and the next day I bought a DC. May not be a
problem where you are, but it was a potential mess here.

mac davis wrote:

It sounds like I need to run a DC hose outside... sort of an
interesting
logistical problem in the world of durawall houses and scorpions.. *g*

I operate my planer outside, no DC necessary; however, a broom,
shovel, and a couple of plastic garbage cans are helpful, no, make
that mandatory.

Lew

Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 9:52am (EDT-1) lid
(Michael*Faurot)
snip If you do need to plane something that is less than 12", an easy
and safe way to do it is to glue on some side runners that are 12" long.
snip

I made a nifty planer sled that clamps the piece in, no gluing
needed. Works like a charm. The planer sled is 100% wood, held
together by glue, 100% wood cam clamps.



JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton

Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 8:23am (EDT-3)
(mac*davis) doth sayeth:
snip Must be a bitch when you drop something in the shavings,
though... especially if it's not something that you can find with a
magnet..snip

Tell me about it. Which is why I made a "sifter". I dump a
handful of sawdut/shavings in, sift, dump the siftings into a bucket,
repeat, until I find whatever. As long as I've got a fair idea of where
it dropped it doesn't take too long.



JOAT
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton

J T wrote:

| I made a nifty planer sled that clamps the piece in, no gluing
| needed. Works like a charm. The planer sled is 100% wood, held
| together by glue, 100% wood cam clamps.

Can/would you post photos? I've thought about doing this, but never
managed to come up with a design I thought would be worth building...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 18:49:18 -0500, "The Davenport's"

wrote:

One thing to bear in mind that I missed before and I don't think anyone
caught...you didn't mention a jointer, so that should be your next
purchase,
I think. A planer will not flatten nor straighten lumber...a jointer will.

Mike

I considered one, Mike, but don't have the budget for one yet... or the
room,
until I sell or give away the RAS and bench TS...

I've made an adjustable "jointing fence" for the TS from ideas ripped off
from 2
or 3 wREC'ers web sites...(thanks Morris)
I think that will get me by as long as I'm using lumber yard stock..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailin

I wouldn't be too quick to sell the RAS, Mac. I find it to be one of my
most used saws for cut offs. You can lose the bench top TS, for sure.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 04:44:56 -0400, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:

mac davis wrote:
Just got a Ridgid planer.. pretty basic and looks a bit like the
pictures of a
Delta...



Be prepared to deal with a LOT of shavings. The best thing I did for my
Delta
was get a plastic fitting that allowed me to channel the shavings into my
dust
collector. What used to be a huge PITA is no longer a big deal at all.

Thanks... this planer comes with a pretty trick setup for DC... has a sort
of
shroud that fits 4" hose on one end and 2 1/2" on the other, with a
reversible
cap to plug the one you're not using..

I guess the reason that I wasn't going to use the DC was that everyone
refers to
"shavings" and I know that a DC on a lathe is useless because it just
clogs the
hose with shavings...
I would hope that the shavings from the planer are shorter/smaller,
especially
with light cuts..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I have only had 'shaving' issues with pine which produce wider and longer
shavings. Hardwoods produce small cuttings and are not an issue.

Don't plane boards to remove paint or used wood with grit on it unless
you like to replace blades .

Jr

http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/THENORTHCOASTPT

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 21:46:16 -0400, "C & E" wrote:


I wouldn't be too quick to sell the RAS, Mac. I find it to be one of my
most used saws for cut offs. You can lose the bench top TS, for sure.

It just takes up too much room and needs to much attention...

I got it a few years ago at a garage sale and fixed it up....
It was probably worth more than the $50 I paid for it, but not much, and the
move down here and months of no use (while waiting for electricity) and getting
banged around haven't helped it...

Looking at redoing the table, cleaning and aligning everything and all the other
wish & prayer stuff involved with a RAS, I'd rather have the vacant space in the
carport...

Funny, most of us say we need a bigger shop... I never thought that a 40' x 15'
carport might be a bit small...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 12:17:53 -0400, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message

I guess the reason that I wasn't going to use the DC was that everyone
refers to
"shavings" and I know that a DC on a lathe is useless because it just
clogs the
hose with shavings...
I would hope that the shavings from the planer are shorter/smaller,
especially
with light cuts..

I made one pass on my planer and the next day I bought a DC. May not be a
problem where you are, but it was a potential mess here.

hmm... part of my plan to provide a source of mulch to the desert??


I'll have to work out a way to get a dc hose or pipe through the wall of the
shop..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 21:53:42 -0400, "C & E" wrote:


I have only had 'shaving' issues with pine which produce wider and longer
shavings. Hardwoods produce small cuttings and are not an issue.



Cool... thanks..
I'll be working mostly with pine here, so I'll keep that in mind...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 19:11:55 -0400, (J T) wrote:

Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 8:23am (EDT-3)
(mac*davis) doth sayeth:
snip Must be a bitch when you drop something in the shavings,
though... especially if it's not something that you can find with a
magnet..snip

Tell me about it. Which is why I made a "sifter". I dump a
handful of sawdut/shavings in, sift, dump the siftings into a bucket,
repeat, until I find whatever. As long as I've got a fair idea of where
it dropped it doesn't take too long.


yeah... I've done about the same thing.. had to find a brass pen bushing...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 19:02:40 -0400, (J T) wrote:

Sun, Jun 24, 2007, 9:52am (EDT-1) lid
(Michael*Faurot)
snip If you do need to plane something that is less than 12", an easy
and safe way to do it is to glue on some side runners that are 12" long.
snip

I made a nifty planer sled that clamps the piece in, no gluing
needed. Works like a charm. The planer sled is 100% wood, held
together by glue, 100% wood cam clamps.


great ad, bro... I want one!

It sounds like something I'm going to need, since one of the reasons for the
planer is getting into laminated or segmented bowls...

Got any pictures or such, so I can make one?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article , mac davis
wrote:

TIA for any suggestions, warnings, DAMHIKT, etc..

I bought a Delta benchtop, and let it sit for a while before I used
it... Out of warranty by the time I hit a brad in a plank I was
planing, and nicked the blades.

The hold-down screws wouldn't budge. I had to take it to a repair shop
on my time to get them replaced.

My advice: Make sure you can change the blades before it's out of
warranty.