I've got a rental property that's about 100 years old and in need of a
new kitchen. I'm thinking about building base and wall cabinets out
of poplar and painting them. I remember seeing an episode of 'This
Old House' years ago where Norm built all the cabinets (3 or 4 in a
row) as one, long unit. If I remember correctly, it looked pretty
easy as compared to building individual units.

Does anyone know a website where I might see an example of this build
process?

Thanks!

That method was used pretty widely till at least the late
70's. It nothing new, just longer pieces and bigger boxes.

I would stay with "stndard" sizes for a lot of different
reasons, but doors would be the # 1 reason.

Smaller units(24,30,36,42) are just easier to deal with.

Fine Woodworker has done several "special editions" on
kitches... I seen the method you are referring to use in
more than one article.


wklkj wrote:

I've got a rental property that's about 100 years old and in need of a
new kitchen. I'm thinking about building base and wall cabinets out
of poplar and painting them. I remember seeing an episode of 'This
Old House' years ago where Norm built all the cabinets (3 or 4 in a
row) as one, long unit. If I remember correctly, it looked pretty
easy as compared to building individual units.

Does anyone know a website where I might see an example of this build
process?

Thanks!

...... Norm built all the cabinets (3 or 4 in a
row) as one, long unit. If I remember correctly, it looked pretty
easy as compared to building individual units.



Thats' two questions:

Built in place? or Built as single unit?

I did my kitchen cabs as compound modules that is, one big 8' box. 8' is the
practical limit because of the availability of plywood. It's really not any
different than smaller modules. It's just a bigger box with interior
partitions. The module is built square and then shimmed plumb upon
installation.

If you meant build in place, don't do it. It's a nightmare to keep things
square.

-Steve



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"wklkj" wrote in message
I've got a rental property that's about 100 years old and in need of a
new kitchen. I'm thinking about building base and wall cabinets out
of poplar and painting them. I remember seeing an episode of 'This
Old House' years ago where Norm built all the cabinets (3 or 4 in a
row) as one, long unit. If I remember correctly, it looked pretty
easy as compared to building individual units.

Still a very common method of building kitchen cabinets, particularly in new
construction, and particularly in corners/angles where two runs of shop
built cabinets meet.

Pro's include that it is indeed much easier to do for the most part, and
unleveled and non-square floors/walls can be taken into account at the
source.

Con's include the fact that you must wait until the space is available to
build, and generally speaking a well constructed, shop built cabinet will
make for a stronger installation, and one that can be more easily dismantled
should the need arise.

Industry standard's that you need to take into account to maintain the
re-sale value of a home and to insure compatibility with appliances, like
dishwashers:

For an unfinished (no substrate/counter top) Base cabinet: 34 1/2" high x
24" deep x "W" wide, where W is variable to fill space/needs as below.

For the factory made type, Base cabinet widths, "W" above, generally start
at 12" and advance in 3" increments ... maximum width (usually sink base
cabinets) vary with manufacturer.

Wall cabinets are "standard" at 12" deep, widths varying according door
sizes. "Standard" height is 30" in a house with 8' ceilings, but most are
taller these days.

Non standard wall cabinet depth and heights are much more common than in
base cabinets.

You generally want +/- 18" between the countertop and the bottom of the wall
cabinet, and the counter tops (with substrate) are generally 1 1/2" thick,
so factor that in when designing.

Just about any book on "built-in" cabinets will have a section on built-in
kitchens with the above information generally provided.

DAGS

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

I build the boxes out of plywood and install them. Then I add popular face
frames and plywood doors. Quick and easy.

"wklkj" wrote in message
ups.com...
I've got a rental property that's about 100 years old and in need of a
new kitchen. I'm thinking about building base and wall cabinets out
of poplar and painting them. I remember seeing an episode of 'This
Old House' years ago where Norm built all the cabinets (3 or 4 in a
row) as one, long unit. If I remember correctly, it looked pretty
easy as compared to building individual units.

Does anyone know a website where I might see an example of this build
process?

Thanks!

On Apr 16, 3:59 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
[politely snipped very informative post for brevity]

Do you run your gabels of the base cabinets to the floor, with a cut-
out for the kick?
Or do you install and level the kick first before putting on your base
cabinets?
Orrrrr, do you use feet? I have been looking at those adjustable ones,
but the kick-plate clips look like a PITA.

By the way, I find I get better yields from raw stock when building
smaller cabinets, beside the obvious plus side of being able to carry
them.

....yup... looking to build a few again. Wood is in my blood.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 16, 3:59 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
[politely snipped very informative post for brevity]

Do you run your gabels of the base cabinets to the floor, with a cut-
out for the kick?

Yes, the cabinets are complete units from top to bottom. The kicks
indentations are cut out from the cabinet sides and then closed in with a
vertical kick plate in most places. Some times hidden drawers with a kick
plate appearance are installed under the base cabinet floor.


Or do you install and level the kick first before putting on your base
cabinets?

See above answer.


Orrrrr, do you use feet? I have been looking at those adjustable ones,
but the kick-plate clips look like a PITA.

See top answer. No feet.


By the way, I find I get better yields from raw stock when building
smaller cabinets, beside the obvious plus side of being able to carry
them.

Yeah, the huge cabinets will tend to leave you with some left over odd sized
pieces, although I did 2 kitchens back in the 90's that had 12' single run
cabinets that were not wasteful at all.

I build in place, no boxes at all.
I start with 1X4 framing in a floor support the width of the cabinet minus
the kickspace, joists front to back and a 1X4 forming the back of the
kickspace..
Then I add a ply floor the depth of the cabinet minus the face.
Then a 2X4 or 1X4 along the wall to support the top.
If I need dividers or drawer support, they are next.
Then the face frame, usually glued and pocket screwed together.
Then a few 1X from front to back to stabilze the face frame and add support
for the top.
Then the top, pocket screwed to the wall support and face frame.
The bottom edge of the face frame hangs 3/4" below the floor.
A 3/4X3/4 cleat is screwed to the back of the face frame and the floor ply
is screwed to it from above...could be glued and nailed.
This all becomed a strong and simple structure, with minimal work and
material.
Wilson
"Pat" wrote in message
...
I build the boxes out of plywood and install them. Then I add popular face
frames and plywood doors. Quick and easy.

"wklkj" wrote in message
ups.com...
I've got a rental property that's about 100 years old and in need of a
new kitchen. I'm thinking about building base and wall cabinets out
of poplar and painting them. I remember seeing an episode of 'This
Old House' years ago where Norm built all the cabinets (3 or 4 in a
row) as one, long unit. If I remember correctly, it looked pretty
easy as compared to building individual units.

Does anyone know a website where I might see an example of this build
process?

Thanks!

On Apr 17, 9:13 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

ups.com...

On Apr 16, 3:59 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
[politely snipped very informative post for brevity]

Do you run your gabels of the base cabinets to the floor, with a cut-
out for the kick?

Yes, the cabinets are complete units from top to bottom. The kicks
indentations are cut out from the cabinet sides and then closed in with a
vertical kick plate in most places.

I used to do it that way. Then I changed my method..and a lot of the
local guys are now doing it this way...again.
I took a kitchen out one time, 1976, and took a really close look on
(whoever) did that...1976... holy cow, has it been 30 years???????

The separate kick approach has too many advantages for me to NOT do it
that way. The worst the floors and walls are, the better this method
shines.
I'm sure you have seen this done before. Besides, it is a great way to
get rid of scrap. (Big deal to me, as I pay $225 per 6-yard dumpster
on average every 6-8 weeks... good thing that property is still zoned
as farm.)

If any of you are interested, I will draw up a sequence of 3D
drawings, if need be twenty seven eight-by-ten colour glossy
photographs with circles
and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one explaining what
each
one is.

If I'm preaching to the converted, by all means tell me to STFU as I
am not looking for something to do. But if this will help any of you,
I will put in the time.

Also, it makes for a great sales-pitch.

r

"Robatoy" wrote in message

Do you run your gabels of the base cabinets to the floor, with a cut-
out for the kick?

See Leon's post ... we've teamed up on the last two.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

"Robatoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 17, 9:13 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

ups.com...

On Apr 16, 3:59 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
[politely snipped very informative post for brevity]

Do you run your gabels of the base cabinets to the floor, with a cut-
out for the kick?

Yes, the cabinets are complete units from top to bottom. The kicks
indentations are cut out from the cabinet sides and then closed in with a
vertical kick plate in most places.

I used to do it that way.

If the side of a cabinet run is exposed, how do you treat the interface
between the separate kick and the bottoms?

-Steve



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Thats' two questions:

Built in place? or Built as single unit?

I did my kitchen cabs as compound modules that is, one big 8' box. 8' is the
practical limit because of the availability of plywood. It's really not any
different than smaller modules. It's just a bigger box with interior
partitions. The module is built square and then shimmed plumb upon
installation.

If you meant build in place, don't do it. It's a nightmare to keep things
square.

-Steve


I did a complete kitchen for SWMBO, did one section built in place, the other section was individual cabinets. Not a great deal of differance, keeping everything square, on the first set, was not a nightmare, but you had to keep it in your mind always.
The big thing was moving parts from kitchen to shop, and back again. IF you can set up shop in the kitchen, you might think about building in place. If not go with individual units.
--

"Robatoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 17, 9:13 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message


If any of you are interested, I will draw up a sequence of 3D
drawings, if need be twenty seven eight-by-ten colour glossy
photographs with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each
one explaining what
each one is.

Thank you, Arlo.
--
NuWave Dave in Houston

On Apr 17, 11:25 am, "Stephen M"
wrote:


If the side of a cabinet run is exposed, how do you treat the interface
between the separate kick and the bottoms?


Good question. I hope these piccies explain it better:

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...atingkick2.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...backdetail.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...detailback.jpg

"Robatoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 17, 11:25 am, "Stephen M"
wrote:


If the side of a cabinet run is exposed, how do you treat the interface
between the separate kick and the bottoms?


Good question. I hope these piccies explain it better:


Thay do.

Thanks,

Steve



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com