Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO noticed
that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color than
the top. (It looked okay in the shop, but my lighting down there isn't the
greatest).

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower section,
effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo? I
think I'd rather tint it so I can control the color.

I'm concerned that any type of stain over poly won't stick to the poly.

Thanks.

Bob

buy her some gradient tinted glasses. you are right;stain isn't gonna
stick to poly.

dave

bob wrote:

Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO noticed
that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color than
the top. (It looked okay in the shop, but my lighting down there isn't the
greatest).

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower section,
effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo? I
think I'd rather tint it so I can control the color.

I'm concerned that any type of stain over poly won't stick to the poly.

Thanks.

Bob

check the can;if you went well past the recoat time, you'll have to
scuff sand the wood before you apply poly again...

dave

bob wrote:

Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO noticed
that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color than
the top. (It looked okay in the shop, but my lighting down there isn't the
greatest).

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower section,
effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo? I
think I'd rather tint it so I can control the color.

I'm concerned that any type of stain over poly won't stick to the poly.

Thanks.

Bob

Actually It becomes glazing. Not exactly staining more like painting.
Scuff up the poly, put on the stain and then more poly. However I foresee a
never ending problem of evening the tint.

--
Young Carpenter

"Save a Tree, Build Furniture"

"bob" wrote in message
. ..
Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO
noticed
that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color
than
the top. (It looked okay in the shop, but my lighting down there isn't
the
greatest).

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower
section,
effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo? I
think I'd rather tint it so I can control the color.

I'm concerned that any type of stain over poly won't stick to the poly.

Thanks.

Bob







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bob wrote:

Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO noticed
that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color than
the top. (It looked okay in the shop, but my lighting down there isn't the
greatest).

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower section,
effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo? I
think I'd rather tint it so I can control the color.

I'm concerned that any type of stain over poly won't stick to the poly.

Thanks.

Bob

Artist's oil paints are compatible with poly. Earth pigments sienna and umber,
raw or burnt, can be mixed to closely approximate any wood color. Rag on thin
coats and buff. Repeat until you build the desired intensity. Addition
of thinner and linseed and/or tung oil extends working time, giving you up to
a half hour to wipe away mistakes.

As the replies already indicated there are ways to do the job. Which ever
method you choose you are going to run into a few additional problems.

The first of which is that just adding a coat of tinted poly to the light
area will leave you a demarcation line, sort of a self induced witness line,
between the color coat and the existing coats. That line is going to have to
be feathered in and that is going to compound the problem of matching the
darker part of the project. The next situation you could run into is that
should, somewhere down the line, this color coat, being a top coat, get
damaged, repairing it will be difficult because not only will the color coat
be damaged but there will be no way to repair the damage without affecting
the color coat.

There are other ways to address the problem but, for simplicity's sake I'd
suggest you apply you color coat up to the point needed then continue to
apply clear varnish to the rest of the project. I'd also suggest a fourth
top clear coat over the whole thing to protect that color coat without
leaving any demarcation lines.

Too bad the situation wasn't reversed with the darker wood on the bottom and
the lighter on the top. Most times you can get away with that sort of thing
because it still looks balanced. Having the darker wood on the top sort of
makes things look unbalanced and top heavy.

As an aside, I'd use an oil based aniline dye to do the blending rather then
a stain or pigments/artist colors.

Just a thought
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"bob" wrote in message
. ..
Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO
noticed
that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color
than
the top. (It looked okay in the shop, but my lighting down there isn't
the
greatest).

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower
section,
effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo? I
think I'd rather tint it so I can control the color.

I'm concerned that any type of stain over poly won't stick to the poly.

Thanks.

Bob

what's your point? just because there is a stain/poly finish doesn't
mean that you can just wipe straight stain over a dry poly finish, now
does it???

dave

George wrote:
Think about it Dave. Minwax and others make a stain/poly all-in-one finish.

Difficulty comes with a difference between the look of stain in wood versus
stain over wood. Scuff and do the bottom with full-strength stain/varnish,
dilute the top treatment, you might have a chance.

The Rev is correct in saying that oil colors are compatible with oil-based
varnish, so you can mix your own if you care to.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
.com...

buy her some gradient tinted glasses. you are right;stain isn't gonna
stick to poly.


Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO

noticed

that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color

than

the top

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower

section,

effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo? I

Bay Area Dave wrote:

what's your point? just because there is a stain/poly finish doesn't
mean that you can just wipe straight stain over a dry poly finish, now
does it???

Scuff it. Better yet, switch to a non-poly phenolic, like Rockhard.

Good news on the demarcation line. The EC was built in two separate,
distinct sections with a face frame covering the joining. The face frame is
fine. It's only the interior of the lower section that is lighter.

Thanks to all for great suggestions. Sure wish I didn't have to do this...

Bob

"Mike G" wrote in message
...
As the replies already indicated there are ways to do the job. Which ever
method you choose you are going to run into a few additional problems.

The first of which is that just adding a coat of tinted poly to the light
area will leave you a demarcation line, sort of a self induced witness
line,
between the color coat and the existing coats. That line is going to have
to
be feathered in and that is going to compound the problem of matching the
darker part of the project. The next situation you could run into is that
should, somewhere down the line, this color coat, being a top coat, get
damaged, repairing it will be difficult because not only will the color
coat
be damaged but there will be no way to repair the damage without affecting
the color coat.

There are other ways to address the problem but, for simplicity's sake I'd
suggest you apply you color coat up to the point needed then continue to
apply clear varnish to the rest of the project. I'd also suggest a fourth
top clear coat over the whole thing to protect that color coat without
leaving any demarcation lines.

Too bad the situation wasn't reversed with the darker wood on the bottom
and
the lighter on the top. Most times you can get away with that sort of
thing
because it still looks balanced. Having the darker wood on the top sort of
makes things look unbalanced and top heavy.

As an aside, I'd use an oil based aniline dye to do the blending rather
then
a stain or pigments/artist colors.

Just a thought
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"bob" wrote in message
. ..
Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO
noticed
that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color
than
the top. (It looked okay in the shop, but my lighting down there isn't
the
greatest).

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower
section,
effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo? I
think I'd rather tint it so I can control the color.

I'm concerned that any type of stain over poly won't stick to the poly.

Thanks.

Bob

Stain sticks _in_ poly. Think of the poly as the vehicle, versus the oil.

Now do you get it?

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
news
what's your point? just because there is a stain/poly finish doesn't
mean that you can just wipe straight stain over a dry poly finish, now
does it???

dave

George wrote:
Think about it Dave. Minwax and others make a stain/poly all-in-one
finish.

Difficulty comes with a difference between the look of stain in wood
versus
stain over wood. Scuff and do the bottom with full-strength
stain/varnish,
dilute the top treatment, you might have a chance.

The Rev is correct in saying that oil colors are compatible with
oil-based
varnish, so you can mix your own if you care to.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
.com...

buy her some gradient tinted glasses. you are right;stain isn't gonna
stick to poly.

That is good news. It'll simplify things greatly.

Good luck.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"bob" wrote in message
.. .
Good news on the demarcation line. The EC was built in two separate,
distinct sections with a face frame covering the joining. The face frame
is
fine. It's only the interior of the lower section that is lighter.

Thanks to all for great suggestions. Sure wish I didn't have to do
this...

Bob

"Mike G" wrote in message
...
As the replies already indicated there are ways to do the job. Which
ever
method you choose you are going to run into a few additional problems.

The first of which is that just adding a coat of tinted poly to the
light
area will leave you a demarcation line, sort of a self induced witness
line,
between the color coat and the existing coats. That line is going to
have
to
be feathered in and that is going to compound the problem of matching
the
darker part of the project. The next situation you could run into is
that
should, somewhere down the line, this color coat, being a top coat, get
damaged, repairing it will be difficult because not only will the color
coat
be damaged but there will be no way to repair the damage without
affecting
the color coat.

There are other ways to address the problem but, for simplicity's sake
I'd
suggest you apply you color coat up to the point needed then continue to
apply clear varnish to the rest of the project. I'd also suggest a
fourth
top clear coat over the whole thing to protect that color coat without
leaving any demarcation lines.

Too bad the situation wasn't reversed with the darker wood on the bottom
and
the lighter on the top. Most times you can get away with that sort of
thing
because it still looks balanced. Having the darker wood on the top sort
of
makes things look unbalanced and top heavy.

As an aside, I'd use an oil based aniline dye to do the blending rather
then
a stain or pigments/artist colors.

Just a thought
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"bob" wrote in message
. ..
Just finished putting two coats of oil based polyurethane on a red oak
entertainment center that was stained with Minwax gel stain. SWMBO
noticed
that the lower section of the entertainment center is lighter in color
than
the top. (It looked okay in the shop, but my lighting down there
isn't
the
greatest).

Question: Can I tint the poly and apply a third coat to the lower
section,
effectively darking it? Or, perhaps I can buy some stain/poly combo?
I
think I'd rather tint it so I can control the color.

I'm concerned that any type of stain over poly won't stick to the
poly.

Thanks.

Bob

i get it. You are trying to argue a point that is not at all what I have
addressed in my posts. YOU don't get it. Your point, while
argumentative, is correct. My earlier statements are also correct, and
in no way refute what you have said. You are preaching to the choir.

dave

George wrote:
Stain sticks _in_ poly. Think of the poly as the vehicle, versus the oil.

Now do you get it?

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
news
what's your point? just because there is a stain/poly finish doesn't
mean that you can just wipe straight stain over a dry poly finish, now
does it???

dave

George wrote:

Think about it Dave. Minwax and others make a stain/poly all-in-one

finish.

Difficulty comes with a difference between the look of stain in wood

versus

stain over wood. Scuff and do the bottom with full-strength

stain/varnish,

dilute the top treatment, you might have a chance.

The Rev is correct in saying that oil colors are compatible with

oil-based

varnish, so you can mix your own if you care to.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
igy.com...


buy her some gradient tinted glasses. you are right;stain isn't gonna
stick to poly.