On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the 4
edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also would
use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?

On Jan 29, 1:29 pm, "trs80" wrote:
On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the 4
edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also would
use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?

I installed MDF base molding in my house and was so impressed I
thought I discovered electricity. Several months have gone by and the
stuff is starting to look crappy. Yes MDF machines easily and
produces crisp lines but it can't take a shot. The slightest bump
with something will leave a mark or a chip. Also consider the holding
power of screws in MDF, will the hinges hold in the MDF? I would go
with Poplar or similar.

"trs80" wrote in message
...
On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
4
edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
would
use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?


If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF. The
stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows on
TV.

--

-Mike-

I think it is great stuff where appropriate. Like all materials they
have both appropriate uses and inappropriate.

I love making templates from MDF if they will be short lived. Very
easy to shape with any type of cutter. I also like it as underlayment
when you want to add some heaft to a project. I've used it laminated
under under 3/4 ply to thicken table tops to 1-1/2" and add some
weight. It works great as a replacable bench top, dividers and back
boards in some projects, they even make entire single piece cabinet
doors from it which is fine when they do the thermal shrink coatings.
It is indenspeible as a CNC bed, etc. etc.

BW

On Jan 29, 12:40 pm, "Mike Marlow" wrote:
"trs80" wrote in ...





On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
4
edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
would
use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF. The
stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows on
TV.

--

-Mike-
- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -

"trs80" wrote in message
...
On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
4 edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
would use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?





It will work fine. I have at the customers request on two different houses
that he has lived in used MDF for all the cabinet doors and drawers. He
spray painted them himself in his garage and they looked great.

You should however use a good quality oil based paint to help guard against
nicks so that the paint does not wick into the edges.

"RayV" wrote in message
ps.com...


On Jan 29, 1:29 pm, "trs80" wrote:
On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles
are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
4
edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
would
use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?

I installed MDF base molding in my house and was so impressed I
thought I discovered electricity. Several months have gone by and the
stuff is starting to look crappy. Yes MDF machines easily and
produces crisp lines but it can't take a shot. The slightest bump
with something will leave a mark or a chip. Also consider the holding
power of screws in MDF, will the hinges hold in the MDF? I would go
with Poplar or similar.

Since he is using the Blum type hinges the weight of the door is not carried
by the screws. the screws simply keep the hinge from pulling out of the
35mm holes that they fit into.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF.
The
stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows
on
TV.


MDF is of course not as nice as solid wood but with proper prep and paint it
will hold up very well in this application.

"trs80" wrote in message
...
On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
4 edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
would use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?

I used to do a lot of that kind of work. 22mm (7/8) is much preferable
because the mdf is quite flexible. Gluing the panel is good practice.
Certainly three or even four hinges, the door will be heavy. Careful with
clearances, especially with the thicker door.

Tim w

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF.
The
stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows
on
TV.


MDF is of course not as nice as solid wood but with proper prep and paint
it
will hold up very well in this application.



I grudgingly have to admit "I know", but I just hate MDF and sometimes I
just can't keep quiet about it.

--

-Mike-

On Jan 29, 1:29 pm, "trs80" wrote:

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?

Why not go to a 7/8" and rout the design , with a template, right into
the door.
There are plenty of low-cost bits just for that job. You can use a
combo of bits.
Using 7/8" will leave you lots of room for some pretty cool patterns.
Keep in mind, that you will get radius'd inside corners, but that
makes painting/sanding and cleaning afterwards alot more pleasant. You
can minimize the inside radii by making a pass with a small diameter
bit.

Sharp bits grow less hair on the end-grain, so do slow feed-rates.
Keep the bit RPM up though.
When painting, use a ****-coat of the colour you are going to use
first. That will wick in, and sets you up for a tougher edge.
Alkyd based, and lots of drying time, with careful sanding in between.

There are heavy laquer-based primers for MDF available, but you need
to spray them. In my old shop, we did several thousands of doors that
way, with great results. Especially when we glazed them with a soft
contrasting wipe afterwards.
Many of my customers MUCH preferred those types of doors over the
vinyl vacuum-formed ones.

If I was going to go through the hassle (and tons of MDF dust) to make
5-piece doors, I'd chose poplar....hands down.
...and Leon is right, don't worry about the screws when using Blum
hinges. I suggest 3 hinges there for MDF, 2 for poplar.

r

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
..



I grudgingly have to admit "I know", but I just hate MDF and sometimes I
just can't keep quiet about it.


I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed.
It is definitely not for everything.

You guys must be out of touch with the real world then... All of those
"Remodeling Shows" make all of their high quality furniture out of
MDF. I can only hope to make pieces as nice as their's some day! MDF
held toghether with 18gauge brads is the only way to go if you want
TRUE "heirloom quality".

Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. :-)

I grudgingly have to admit "I know", but I just hate MDF and sometimes I
just can't keep quiet about it.I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed.
It is definitely not for everything.

Best template material out there.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF.
The
stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows
on
TV.

"Oughtsix" wrote in message
oups.com...

MDF held toghether with 18gauge brads is the only way to
go if you want TRUE "heirloom quality".

Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. :-)

True, for some heirs. Heck, cardboard and duct tape is too good for some,
since it can't be spent anyway. ;-)

-- Mark

"Leon" wrote in message

I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed.
It is definitely not for everything.

As you well know, there are a ton of solid mdf interior doors being sold now
in the building industry these days.

As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?

Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with the
"raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
appropriate profile.

Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.

If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07

"Robatoy" wrote in message

Why not go to a 7/8" and rout the design , with a template, right into
the door.

Bingo! ... it's exactly what the big boys in the door industry do.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07

CW wrote:
Best template material out there.

It really is!

Mark Jerde wrote:

True, for some heirs. Heck, cardboard and duct tape is too good for some,
since it can't be spent anyway. ;-)


HEY!

High-end cardboard deserves hot glue! G

The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
of the MDF or of my router bit?

I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
krylon!

-Nathan

On Jan 30, 8:09 am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed.
It is definitely not for everything.As you well know, there are a ton of solid mdf interior doors being sold now
in the building industry these days.

As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?

Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with the
"raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
appropriate profile.

Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.

If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07

On Jan 30, 8:21 am, B A R R Y wrote:
It really is!

I use sheets of 1/2" for all my accurate templating. Undermount sink
cut-outs need to be pretty close if you plan to mate it with a
$1000.00 (+) Franke sink. They are re-usable

The cheaper under-mount sinks vary so much in size that making a
template for each installation is in many cases a must.

When undermounting in laminate tops, tolerances get real goofy. MDF
rules!
http://www.topworks.ca/counter-seal%...ersealshot.gif

r

"N Hurst" wrote in message
oups.com...
As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?

Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
the
"raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
appropriate profile.

Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.

If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.

Why build them at all?
http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/

--
Dave in Houston

"N Hurst" wrote in message
The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
of the MDF or of my router bit?

I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
krylon!

Be aware that not all mdf is created equally, and certainly a top quality,
and sharp, router bit would be required.

I would look for a "mill" near you that supplies trim to the building
industry and see if they can either supply you with top quality mdf, or tell
you where they get theirs.

If you were in the Houston area, I would recommend The Detering Co, on
Washington avenue. Strictly as a go by, here is their website as an
illustration of what kind of company you would be looking for in your area:

http://www.detering.com/

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07

"NuWaveDave" wrote in message

Why build them at all?
http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/

Why have a shop full of tools?

But at those prices for the mdf doors you're right if mdf is what you want
and don't want to be bothered.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07

i dont mind
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

"trs80" wrote in message
...
On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles
are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
4
edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
would
use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?


If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF.
The
stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows
on
TV.

--

-Mike-

N Hurst wrote:
The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
of the MDF or of my router bit?

I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
looked crappy.

Seal the cut edge with glue size, drywall compound, or shellac before
you sand it.

thats a good idea. but I dont like the look of the rounded corners.
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have
agreed.
It is definitely not for everything.

As you well know, there are a ton of solid mdf interior doors being sold
now
in the building industry these days.

As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?

Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
the
"raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
appropriate profile.

Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.

If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07

good tips all. thanks!

"trs80" wrote in message
...
On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
4 edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
would use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?

On Jan 30, 9:44 am, B A R R Y wrote:
N Hurst wrote:
The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
of the MDF or of my router bit?

I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
looked crappy.Seal the cut edge with glue size, drywall compound, or shellac before
you sand it.

Automotive glazing putty (laquer based) is nice and quick. Cheap and
tough too. A wee bit harder to sand..but quite workable. Ready to go
in a tube.

"Oughtsix" wrote in message
oups.com...
You guys must be out of touch with the real world then... All of those
"Remodeling Shows" make all of their high quality furniture out of
MDF. I can only hope to make pieces as nice as their's some day! MDF
held toghether with 18gauge brads is the only way to go if you want
TRUE "heirloom quality".

Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. :-)


"Heirloom quality" Now there is a description that means nothing.

An Heirloom does not have to be a quality piece. An heirloom is something
that has simply been a family possession handed down from generation to
generation.
I have a 16 lb sledge hammer badly rusted and with a cracked handle that is
an heirloom.

"N Hurst" wrote in message
oups.com...
The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
of the MDF or of my router bit?

I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
krylon!

-Nathan


The trick is to stabilize the " fuzzies". After cutting and or routing
apply a primer or shellac and then lightly sand to smooth the surface.

On Jan 30, 9:36 am, "Swingman" wrote:

Strictly as a go by, here is their website as an
illustration of what kind of company you would be looking for in your area:

Yup, got a couple on speed dial. I hardly ever bother making doors any
more.
I e-mail the style number and size..to the verifiable millimetre, and
wait 10 days.
I can even get them pre-finished to my exact requirement.
Most importantly, at a price which I can't even begin to touch.

I walk in with one of Caron's incredible brochures, and out come the
cheque-books.

http://www.caronind.com/

These guys have taken the 'going green' to a new level. Fabulous
people.

For a lower cost MDF-style product:

http://www.cabinetmart.com/cat-doors.html right in my back yard.

Both of these guys will ship to USA and beyond. (Shameless plugs)

r

On Jan 30, 10:02 am, "Leon" wrote:
"N Hurst" wrote in ooglegroups.com...

The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
of the MDF or of my router bit?

I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
krylon!

-Nathan
The trick is to stabilize the " fuzzies". After cutting and or routing
apply a primer or shellac and then lightly sand to smooth the surface.

Thanks for all the replies, everyone! Next time I need to work with
MDF I'll try out your suggestions.

-Nathan

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"NuWaveDave" wrote in message

Why build them at all?
http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/

Why have a shop full of tools?

For "real wood" projects? ~)

Dave in Houston

"NuWaveDave" wrote in message

"Swingman" wrote in message

"NuWaveDave" wrote in message

Why build them at all?
http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/

Why have a shop full of tools?

For "real wood" projects? ~)

Dave in Houston

Au contraire ... mdf _is_ "real wood" ... just ask Mattress Mac, or any
furniture store salesman.

Thanks for that link, BTW ... I passed it on to a past customer who was in
the shop yesterday, and who, while looking to build his own doors, was
looking for me to tell/advise him how to do it.

That oughta take care of that!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07

On Jan 30, 10:02 am, "Leon" wrote:
"N Hurst" wrote in ooglegroups.com...

The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
of the MDF or of my router bit?

I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
krylon!

-Nathan
The trick is to stabilize the " fuzzies". After cutting and or routing
apply a primer or shellac and then lightly sand to smooth the surface.

Thanks for all the replies, everyone! Next time I need to work with
MDF I'll try out your suggestions.

-Nathan

its a hobby. You think Im cheap? I cant afford myself
"NuWaveDave" wrote in message
...

"N Hurst" wrote in message
oups.com...
As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?

Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
the
"raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
appropriate profile.

Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.

If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.

Why build them at all?
http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/

--
Dave in Houston

8 poplar doors = $550.
vs
2 sheet MDF = $50
30bdft poplar = $75
My time = PRICELESS


"NuWaveDave" wrote in message
...

"N Hurst" wrote in message
oups.com...
As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?

Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
the
"raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
appropriate profile.

Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.

If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.

Why build them at all?
http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/

--
Dave in Houston

On Jan 30, 12:18 pm, "trs80" wrote:

2 sheet MDF = $50
30bdft poplar = $75
My time = PRICELESS


Spend the extra $25 and get the poplar. Easy choice, IMO.

bf wrote:

Spend the extra $25 and get the poplar. Easy choice, IMO.



As much as I like MDF for certain uses, the poplar will be much more
enjoyable to work.

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...


On Jan 30, 12:18 pm, "trs80" wrote:

2 sheet MDF = $50
30bdft poplar = $75
My time = PRICELESS


Spend the extra $25 and get the poplar. Easy choice, IMO.

Except that the yield from 2 sheets of MDF is 64 ft vs. 30 for the poplar.
The poplar would cost in excess of $150 for the equivalent amount.