I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

I do not have any problem working with solid walnut wood

I always use premium quality carbide blades (Freud) and keep them well
sharpened.

I make sure that I use the right blade for ripping and cross cutting.

My first furniture was made using 8” wide X3/4” thick solid board. After
all these years, I have never had any splits or checks, twisting or cupping.

Today, because of availability and the machineries I have I use narrower
boards for cabinet making with dowels or biscuits.



At first, I use oil stain on walnut. Then over the years, I have removed
the stain and refinished the existing furniture with Danish oil. Since then
when I work with walnut or other hardwood, I prefer Tung oil or Danish oil
for finish.


"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this stuff work? Chip-out prone?

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this stuff work? Chip-out prone?

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com



Walnut works very nicely and is relatively soft, about 26% softer than White
Oak. Easy on the hands. It is a pleasure to work with. IMHO the only draw
back is seeing pencil marks when you use them.

"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this stuff work? Chip-out prone?

It is just about a perfect wood, as long as you don't get sapwood mixed in.

Commercial wood is not as pretty as homemade, but there probably isn't much
you can do about that.

Love the stuff. Don't hide it's beauty under a stain....just plain tung oil
or Danish at most.
I use a white paint tip pen to rough mark and a white pencil for finishing
lines.
"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this stuff work? Chip-out prone?

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

"Stoutman" wrote::

I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work
on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO,
but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this stuff work? Chip-out prone?

There is a reason it is a favorite for gun stocks.

Boards will be smaller than other species, but should be NBD.

Have fun.

Lew

On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 04:35:55 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
.. .
I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this stuff work? Chip-out prone?

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com



Walnut works very nicely and is relatively soft, about 26% softer than White
Oak. Easy on the hands. It is a pleasure to work with. IMHO the only draw
back is seeing pencil marks when you use them.


... and it smells great when you work it.

Good stuff Maynard.



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 21:33:54 -0500, "Stoutman" .@. wrote:

I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?


Good workability. Walnut dust is bad so wear a tight-fitting mask and
use your DC.

Maybe someone can validate that statement furthermore or dismiss it.
Or it could be just an old tale.
I never use walnut wood chips or saw dust for mulching to be used around
ornamental trees.
The situation is when you do surface planing or wood turning you accumulate
lots of wood chips and it has to be disposed.
I always end up burning it in the stove.




"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 21:33:54 -0500, "Stoutman" .@. wrote:

I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?


Good workability. Walnut dust is bad so wear a tight-fitting mask and
use your DC.

"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?

I've been privileged to have, and use, quite a bit of it. Very easy to work,
and not usually chip/tear out prone when routing or sawing, and pretty hard
to screw up a finish if you go easy.

Air dried if you can find it. The kiln dried, still beautiful, can be a bit
dulled by the process. (contrary to conventional wisdom, a very light
colored stain like ZAR's Provincial 114 will help somewhat if that becomes a
problem).

As far as finishing goes, normally no stain. An amber shellac brings out the
color nicely, and a "Sam Maloof" type oil/poly oil/wax finish, is my
favorite walnut finish ... particularly if you run through the grits to 320.

When you start working with walnut, do keep an eye on yourself for any
allergic reactions. It can do some strange things to some folks, including
me ... the sawdust from cutting doesn't bother me, but, if I get too big a
whiff of it, the smoke, like what happens when from routing mortises, makes
both my feet itch at the same time in the same spots ... go figure. Since
allergic reactions can suddenly intensify, I routinely wear a mask when
routing walnut.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/06/07

wrote in message
...
Maybe someone can validate that statement furthermore or dismiss it.
Or it could be just an old tale.
I never use walnut wood chips or saw dust for mulching to be used around
ornamental trees.
The situation is when you do surface planing or wood turning you
accumulate lots of wood chips and it has to be disposed.
I always end up burning it in the stove.


Will make horses founder, but it's a great weed killer. Trees that
tolerate acid soil shouldn't care much, though higher acidity does leach the
soil faster. Cherry and oak are a couple other good weed controllers. Mix
with high-ammonia stuff for composting or it lasts forever.

On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 12:34:35 +0000, marierdj wrote:

Maybe someone can validate that statement furthermore or dismiss it.
Or it could be just an old tale.
I never use walnut wood chips or saw dust for mulching to be used around
ornamental trees.
The situation is when you do surface planing or wood turning you accumulate
lots of wood chips and it has to be disposed.
I always end up burning it in the stove.

I think he's talking about OSHA's position that walnut is a
suspected carcinogen.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/woodworking/health_wooddust.html

I note that several of the more popular cabinet woods are listed, although
maple isn't. I do find myself wondering whether this is due to degree of
exposure rather than any unique characteristic of the wood.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 21:33:54 -0500, "Stoutman" .@. wrote:

I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on
my Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but
SWBO wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?


Good workability. Walnut dust is bad so wear a tight-fitting mask and
use your DC.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

wrote in message
...
Maybe someone can validate that statement furthermore or dismiss it.
Or it could be just an old tale.
I never use walnut wood chips or saw dust for mulching to be used around
ornamental trees.
The situation is when you do surface planing or wood turning you
accumulate lots of wood chips and it has to be disposed.
I always end up burning it in the stove.

It is really not a good idea to use any saw dust as mulch in the yard until
it has started to decompose. IIRC it robs the soil until it begins to break
down.

wrote in message
...
Maybe someone can validate that statement furthermore or dismiss it.
Or it could be just an old tale.
I never use walnut wood chips or saw dust for mulching to be used around
ornamental trees.
The situation is when you do surface planing or wood turning you
accumulate lots of wood chips and it has to be disposed.
I always end up burning it in the stove.

After cutting down a walnut tree and working it up into lumber I had bags
and bags of walnut shavings, so I researched that thoroughly.
It is "thought" that some plants "might" be hurt by walnut mulch; but there
is no definitive word on the subject. But all agree that it is harmless
after composting.

So I laid mine down in a parking area where I want to discourage weeds.
Maybe it will help; who knows.

"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this stuff work? Chip-out prone?

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

My first experience with walnut was with a headboard and dresser. Nice
stuff to work with. I didn't find chip-out to be a problem but then I use
sharp tooling, blades cutters, etc.
Danish oil finish recommended.
Be sure to use a mask.

Max

That's why I always use my hands. Toes do not grip tools well and it's a bit
awkward. )
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does
this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?

I've been privileged to have, and use, quite a bit of it. Very easy to
work,
and not usually chip/tear out prone when routing or sawing, and pretty
hard
to screw up a finish if you go easy.

Air dried if you can find it. The kiln dried, still beautiful, can be a
bit
dulled by the process. (contrary to conventional wisdom, a very light
colored stain like ZAR's Provincial 114 will help somewhat if that becomes
a
problem).

As far as finishing goes, normally no stain. An amber shellac brings out
the
color nicely, and a "Sam Maloof" type oil/poly oil/wax finish, is my
favorite walnut finish ... particularly if you run through the grits to
320.

When you start working with walnut, do keep an eye on yourself for any
allergic reactions. It can do some strange things to some folks, including
me ... the sawdust from cutting doesn't bother me, but, if I get too big a
whiff of it, the smoke, like what happens when from routing mortises,
makes
both my feet itch at the same time in the same spots ... go figure. Since
allergic reactions can suddenly intensify, I routinely wear a mask when
routing walnut.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/06/07

Stoutman wrote:
I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com


walnut machines great...

As other people said, the dust is rough, don't finish with a dark stain
(i've used light oak stain, and it looks nice!)
One more thing... drill pilot hols for screws.

shelly

J. Clarke wrote:
On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 12:34:35 +0000, marierdj wrote:

Maybe someone can validate that statement furthermore or dismiss it.
Or it could be just an old tale.
I never use walnut wood chips or saw dust for mulching to be used around
ornamental trees.
The situation is when you do surface planing or wood turning you accumulate
lots of wood chips and it has to be disposed.
I always end up burning it in the stove.

I think he's talking about OSHA's position that walnut is a
suspected carcinogen.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/woodworking/health_wooddust.html

I note that several of the more popular cabinet woods are listed, although
maple isn't. I do find myself wondering whether this is due to degree of
exposure rather than any unique characteristic of the wood.

Most cancers start out as epitheliomas (epithelia = skin or organ
linings).
Any irritant is a potential carcinogen, asbestos being an excellent
example. Wear a mask if you're worried. Most other carcinogens
should be this easy to control.

Stoutman wrote:
I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?

Works like clear pine. A dream. Won't chip if you use a zero
clearance
plate. Finish with orange shellac and wax, French polish if you're
up to the challenge.

On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 21:33:54 -0500, "Stoutman" .@. wrote:

I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?

Naw, it's terrible stuff- once you get it, send it me and I'll get rid
of it for you.

In all seriousness, it's a wonderful wood. Machines well, and sands
to a great finish.

Two things to watch, though- the dust is hazardous, so wear a decent
tight-fitting mask. And do not use the shavings or sawdust as mulch-
black walnut will kill many plants. If you normally use your shavings
for mulching, make sure you keep walnut separate.

I have made a number of projects using Walnut and really like the finish it has.
I uses tung oil/linseed oil to really bring out the grains and different colors.
The only problem I had is finding dark walnut that does have allot of sap
wood(white,gray) on the edges, I would take along a some water and a small plane
to see what you have unless it has already been planed.

"Stoutman" .@. wrote:

I am planning on purchasing some walnut this weekend to start work on my
Stickley-rip off bed (I know Stickley is usually cherry or QSWO, but SWBO
wants walnut.)

I have not made an entire project from walnut before. How easily does this
stuff work? Chip-out prone?

I too will be working with some walnut in the near future. When you say a
decent tight fitting dust mask, do you mean one of the white 'paper' dust
masks or do you mean a cartridge type respirator?

SteveP.


Two things to watch, though- the dust is hazardous, so wear a decent
tight-fitting mask.

On Wed, 17 Jan 2007 00:07:39 GMT, "Highland Pairos"
wrote:

I too will be working with some walnut in the near future. When you say a
decent tight fitting dust mask, do you mean one of the white 'paper' dust
masks or do you mean a cartridge type respirator?

Respirator for sure, unless you like dark brown snot for a week or so
after your done.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message

I too will be working with some walnut in the near future. When you say a
decent tight fitting dust mask, do you mean one of the white 'paper' dust
masks or do you mean a cartridge type respirator?

Impossible to predict/say, since each and every case will be dependent upon
the individual woodworker him/herself.

I do seem to have an allergic reaction to at least one aspect of walnut (the
smoke), but a good "paper filter" type dust mask is all it takes to make the
problem disappear for me.

As always, YMMV ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/06/07

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
I too will be working with some walnut in the near future. When you say a
decent tight fitting dust mask, do you mean one of the white 'paper' dust
masks or do you mean a cartridge type respirator?

SteveP.


Two things to watch, though- the dust is hazardous, so wear a decent
tight-fitting mask.



The dust carries the irritating chemicals in it. Deflect the dust and you
should be good. Start with the most comfortable option and escalate as
needed. Tight fits aren't usually necessary, as you don't develop much
vacuum on inspiration.

On Wed, 17 Jan 2007 00:07:39 GMT, "Highland Pairos"
wrote:

I too will be working with some walnut in the near future. When you say a
decent tight fitting dust mask, do you mean one of the white 'paper' dust
masks or do you mean a cartridge type respirator?

I mean a cartridge respirator, but if a paper mask is what you've got,
it's better than nothing.

One or two exposures to walnut dust are unlikely to do much to you
unless you've got a specific allergy to it, but it's more toxic than
some other woods, and avoiding breathing the dust as much as possible
is a good idea. From what I understand, it is one of those that
you'll eventually develop a reaction to with repeated exposure,
similar to cedar.

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
I too will be working with some walnut in the near future. When you say a
decent tight fitting dust mask, do you mean one of the white 'paper' dust
masks or do you mean a cartridge type respirator?

SteveP.


You may be fine with the dust as it has different effects on some people. I
notice nothing but I always stand between the project and a fan when
sanding.

Thanks for all the advice. When I start on it, I will make sure all the
dust control measures are working and start with a mask and move to a
respirator if necessary.

SteveP.

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
I too will be working with some walnut in the near future. When you say a
decent tight fitting dust mask, do you mean one of the white 'paper' dust
masks or do you mean a cartridge type respirator?

SteveP.


Two things to watch, though- the dust is hazardous, so wear a decent
tight-fitting mask.