I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind of epoxy glue. Do
I also use small nails or screws?
Patt

On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 06:21:58 GMT, "Patt" wrote:

I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind of epoxy glue. Do
I also use small nails or screws?

I just used screws. Drilling the stuff is interesting. It'll leave a
raised area around the edge of the hole that I had to go back and
knock down so it would sit tight to the bottom of the sled.


-Leuf

"Leuf" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 06:21:58 GMT, "Patt" wrote:

I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind of epoxy glue.
Do
I also use small nails or screws?

I just used screws. Drilling the stuff is interesting. It'll leave a
raised area around the edge of the hole that I had to go back and
knock down so it would sit tight to the bottom of the sled.


Me too on the screws. You just want them snug if you use flatheads, because
the wedge will make the plastic tighten in the groove. I thought it might
be an adjustment "feature" for later down the line, but it hasn't proven
necessary. Best would probably be counterbored pan head, but no real depth
in a miter groove.

Doublestick will give you a bit of help as you adjust position.

Patt wrote:
I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base?

Screws work for me with UMHW.

I usually use maple, birch, or white oak for runners, which I attach
with standard wood glue while the whole shebang sits in the slots.
After the glue dries, I add a few countersunk screws.

Patt wrote:
I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind of epoxy glue. Do
I also use small nails or screws?
Patt



Having worked for a company that made uhmw (*ultra wear) I would highly
doubt that any type of glue or epoxy would stick to it for very long. As
you might know, uhmw is as tough as nails and near impossible to break
in half. An interesting side bar is that uhmw yields a LOT of STATIC
electricity when machining it. Did you ever notice how the chips cling
to the surface after cutting? I'm with the consensus on this one
suggesting that you use screws to hold it in place. As far as deburring
goes, I would use a sharp razor blade rather than sandpaper. BTW this
stuff forms nicely when heated up in an oven for 30 minutes and then
placed in a form. You know it is hot enough to form when the material
starts to turn translucent.

Rick

Patt wrote:
I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind of epoxy glue. Do
I also use small nails or screws?
Patt


Never having found a suitable adhesive, I've always drilled & tapped the
UHMW when used in that application. UHMW taps very cleanly without any
lubrication.

Patt wrote:

I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base?

Swearing mostly 8-(

Double sided tape works about the best, epoxy really doesn't want to
know. Some of the solvent polyurethanes (shoe repair) work tolerably
well.

Personally I've taken to buying the more expensive thicker material
that comes in strips, not on a roll. I can put this on with DS tape,
where the roll stuff always peeled back on the first hot day.

On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 11:06:33 GMT, "George" wrote:


"Leuf" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 06:21:58 GMT, "Patt" wrote:

I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind of epoxy glue.
Do
I also use small nails or screws?

I just used screws. Drilling the stuff is interesting. It'll leave a
raised area around the edge of the hole that I had to go back and
knock down so it would sit tight to the bottom of the sled.


Me too on the screws. You just want them snug if you use flatheads, because
the wedge will make the plastic tighten in the groove. I thought it might
be an adjustment "feature" for later down the line, but it hasn't proven
necessary. Best would probably be counterbored pan head, but no real depth
in a miter groove.

I counterbored the sled and screwed down into the runners, which keeps
everything lined up.


-Leuf

Patt wrote:

I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base?

Swearing mostly 8-(

Double sided tape works about the best, epoxy really doesn't want to
know. Some of the solvent polyurethanes (shoe repair) work tolerably
well.

Personally I've taken to buying the more expensive thicker material
that comes in strips, not on a roll. I can put this on with DS tape,
where the roll stuff always peeled back on the first hot day.

"Patt" wrote in message
news:aargh.488528$R63.288544@pd7urf1no...
I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind of epoxy glue.
Do
I also use small nails or screws?
Patt

They make a superglue for polyethylene. I haven't tried it though.

Richard Faust (in ) said:

| Patt wrote:
|| I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would
|| you join them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind
|| of epoxy glue. Do I also use small nails or screws?
|| Patt
|
| Having worked for a company that made uhmw (*ultra wear) I would
| highly doubt that any type of glue or epoxy would stick to it for
| very long. As you might know, uhmw is as tough as nails and near
| impossible to break in half. An interesting side bar is that uhmw
| yields a LOT of STATIC electricity when machining it. Did you ever
| notice how the chips cling to the surface after cutting? I'm with
| the consensus on this one suggesting that you use screws to hold it
| in place. As far as deburring goes, I would use a sharp razor blade
| rather than sandpaper. BTW this stuff forms nicely when heated up
| in an oven for 30 minutes and then placed in a form. You know it is
| hot enough to form when the material starts to turn translucent.

It also saws (with TS and BS), planes, drills, routs, and joints with
ease. I've drilled (#7 drill bit) and tapped (1/4-20) to allow
fastening strips with flat head cap screws.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Patt wrote:
I am using uhmw strips for the runners on a t/s sled. How would you join
them to the wood base? I was thinking of using some kind of epoxy glue. Do
I also use small nails or screws?

Here's a link to a manufacturer's recommendations for UHMW adhesives.
http://www.garlandmfg.com/plastics/bonding.html

I personally use screws.

R

"Richard Faust" wrote in message
...

Having worked for a company that made uhmw (*ultra wear) I would highly
doubt that any type of glue or epoxy would stick to it for very long. As

Make that UHMW-PE, Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene. Yes, there is
ULMW too.


--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com

Pounds on Wood wrote:
"Richard Faust" wrote in message
...
Having worked for a company that made uhmw (*ultra wear) I would highly
doubt that any type of glue or epoxy would stick to it for very long. As

Make that UHMW-PE, Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene. Yes, there is
ULMW too.

Here is a link that may be helpful:

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...cles_586.shtml

Rick

Pounds on Wood wrote:
"Richard Faust" wrote in message
...

Having worked for a company that made uhmw (*ultra wear) I would highly
doubt that any type of glue or epoxy would stick to it for very long. As

Make that UHMW-PE, Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene. Yes, there is
ULMW too.


Bill,

My understanding was that there are three types of polyethylene
commonly used:
Low Density, High Density, and the UHMW that is the topic of this
thread.

Of course, it wouldn't surprise me if there could be other less common
types as well.

Mark