russ wrote:

hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.

thanks
russ
www.russkinzie.com

Just wondering, what are you using now and why do you feel a need for a
change?

BTW, finished fireplace unit looked nice, concept drawings were kinda
the other way.

Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.

"JackD" wrote in message

So really, except for the massive feeling of guilt from buying a saw that
tilts the opposite way from my politics, I am happier with a right tilt.
It
will also be easier to use after I cut off my right hand....


LOL. I really didn't try to start an argument. I just stopped by to ask a ?.
I've used both right and left tilt saws, unisaw and powermatic and liked
them both.
I bought a delta contractors saw and it works great, a little low on hp but
other than that it's been a great saw (right tilt). Money was the deciding
factor.
I was just offering up some personal insite. It sounds like this subject
has probably been hammered to death a few times in this group before.
Sorry to start it up again. ;-)

Dan

That's it exactly, Leon.

To me there are only two factors: 1) are you going to do a lot of beveling
relative to dadoing = get a left-tilt; 2) are you going to do a lot of
dadoing relative to beveling = get a right-tilt.

Either situation, IMO, isn't really difficult to work around. The whole
idea of choosing something so the tilt wheel is on the side of your dominant
hand is silly. Can you really tell me that you aren't coordinated enough to
use the other hand if you need to? I'm right-handed, but believe it or not,
I actually can successfully use the tilt wheel on my right-tilt with my left
hand. Shocking.

And, Leon, I've seen these lists comparing right vs. left tilts and most of
the "benefits" to left vs. right are not substantive at all. If I need to
do a bevel more than ~16 inches from the fence, then it becomes an issue.
But, which way you have to tighten the arbor nut, which side the tilt wheel
is on, etc. really are so insignificant as to be not worth mentioning. The
loss of shelf space is another real issue, but it isn't going to make or
break the deal.

So, I have a question. Do you honestly do more beveling than dadoing? And,
what's the use of having a nice accurate fence with a good distance
indicator if you need to use a tape measure to set the fence? More
importantly, I've used left-tilts to do dadoing and more than once I forgot
and used the tape and screwed up some panels. Wasting wood is too
expensive, so that's what made my decision.

I guess I've said my piece more than I should have. I just get sick of
people saying how SAFE the left-tilt is relative to the right. A load of
hogwash.

Mike



"Leon" wrote in message
. ..
Well, no, but that is one of the reasons I use in my rubber stamp reply.
An exception would be if you are will be cutting a lot of grooves or dados
at different distances from the edge of the wood, the right tilt would
probably be the better choice regardless if you are right or left handed.



"Upscale" wrote in message
able.rogers.com...
"Leon" wrote in message
news
"JackD" wrote in message
...

BTY, you have seen the long list of reasons to get the left over the
right
and I agreed most are strictly personal preference but when you
compared
the
long list of reasons to get the left tilt vs. the reasons to the right
tilt,
what reason on the right tilt list swayed you to choose the right
tilt?

The best reason is practical. If you're right handed, then it makes
sense
to
go with left tilt and the wheel on the right. Left handed, then it's
pretty
obvious to go with right tilt. Can't get more practical with that.

"JackD" wrote in message ...
1) Bevel wheel on right
Not a problem. I'm used to it being on the left. With wheel on the left I
can operate it with my left hand and use my right for raising/lowering the
blade at the same time.

Well I have a hard time chewing bubble gum and walking....sometimes... LOL
I know that cranking both at once would end up with me cranking one in the
wrong dirrection.


6) Storage room under right wing.
On a mobile base it doesn't really matter much. I have to move the tool to
get set up anyway.

Well, I have a left tilt, and a mobile base and storage under the right
extension table. You may still be able to utilize some of that space too IF
you are interested. I have a pic if you would be interested seeing my under
table storage solution. I have a 6 drawer unit, for small items, a seperate
shelf for both my left and right Dubby sleds, rip fence, and 2 bevel gauges.
These all ride around comfortably on top of the mobile base.


Here are the additional reasons for the right tilt.

1) Cheaper at least for the brand I decided upon.
This reason always gets a star * or at least a happy face :-)

Always a valid reason.


2) Right tilt motor doesn't interfere with fitting a sliding table.
Who knows, I may get one someday.

Correct in most cases... IIRC JET offers a sliding table with left tilt but
that would pretty much limit your choice to Jet.

So really, except for the massive feeling of guilt from buying a saw that
tilts the opposite way from my politics, I am happier with a right tilt.
It
will also be easier to use after I cut off my right hand....

So there you go, personal preference... For some reason I was under the
impression that this was your first. Old habits are hard to break.

Thank you.
Leon

But considering a wash, your points were all clearly valid even if the wife
only gets fine furniture vs. roses and dinner. ;~)


"Joe Wells" wrote in message
s.com...
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:56:35 +0000, Leon wrote:

Normally it would be a wash...but IIRC Amazon often offers free
shipping.

Ah, I didn't realize that Amazon did that for big stuff like a Unisaw, but
checking again, they clearly do. That does mess with my math a bit,
doesn't it? Oh well.

--
Joe Wells

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
igy.com...

Either situation, IMO, isn't really difficult to work around. The whole
idea of choosing something so the tilt wheel is on the side of your
dominant
hand is silly. Can you really tell me that you aren't coordinated enough
to
use the other hand if you need to? I'm right-handed, but believe it or
not,
I actually can successfully use the tilt wheel on my right-tilt with my
left
hand. Shocking.

:~) Considering that I could use my right hand to tilt the blade and my
left hand to raise the blade, I always use my right hand to do both. I did
however try to raise the blade with my left hand one time and it indeed felt
aquard. I am sure it is sometheing I could have gotten used to if I had
chosen a right tilt for the first buy 20 years ago.

And, Leon, I've seen these lists comparing right vs. left tilts and most
of
the "benefits" to left vs. right are not substantive at all. If I need to
do a bevel more than ~16 inches from the fence, then it becomes an issue.
But, which way you have to tighten the arbor nut, which side the tilt
wheel
is on, etc. really are so insignificant as to be not worth mentioning.
The
loss of shelf space is another real issue, but it isn't going to make or
break the deal.

You have probably seen my list. It is the one that points out those small
differences. My list is for those that have considered all the pro's and
con's of both versions and still need the push to go either way.

So, I have a question. Do you honestly do more beveling than dadoing?
And,
what's the use of having a nice accurate fence with a good distance
indicator if you need to use a tape measure to set the fence? More
importantly, I've used left-tilts to do dadoing and more than once I
forgot
and used the tape and screwed up some panels. Wasting wood is too
expensive, so that's what made my decision.

Absolutely. I do this for a supplimental income and build a lot of cabinets
with cabinet quality plywood. I 45 a lot of corners. Oddly in my 25 years
of serious woodworking I have never used a stacked dado set for dadoing with
the exception of cutting centered grooves on rails and styles for floating
paneled cabinet doors when I use stubb tennons joints. When I do need
dado's I use either my dado jig that I designed for my hand held router or I
use my router table.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 14:41:53 GMT, "Bob G. " wrote:

[snip]

However as one poster pointed out cutting two bevel cuts on opposite
sides on a panel where the
cutting compacity on the left of the blade is too short... can be, and
is a safety issue...even if it is a small one.

[snip]

Are you saying that cutting from the right of the blade w/ a right-tilt TS is a
manageable safety situation -- i.e., it can be done w/ relative safety?

"russ" wrote

: hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
: couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
: i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
: woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.

On my web site - 'Circular Sawbench Safety' is a list of criteria that might
be useful when purchasing a circular sawbench.

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website www.username.clara.net

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
igy.com...
That's it exactly, Leon.

To me there are only two factors: 1) are you going to do a lot of
beveling
relative to dadoing = get a left-tilt; 2) are you going to do a lot of
dadoing relative to beveling = get a right-tilt.

And how exactly does one know that considering they don't have enough
working experience working with either type to make a decision? If someone
doesn't have the experience, then it's highly unlikely they know what type
of cut they're going to be making under most circumstances. It's more likely
this person is a new woodworker when it comes to a tablesaw. Do you actually
think they know what they're going to be building for the next twenty years?
Don't be ridiculous. Only one factor is left to work with and that's left or
right handedness.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 12:16:09 GMT, "dan"
wrote:

I was pointing that out because the Unisaw tilts to the right.

No, the Unisaw tilts to EITHER side, depending on the model purchased.
G

Barry

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
digy.com...
Only one factor is left to work with and that's left or
right handedness.

Not a factor at all IMO. I'm left handed and have no trouble using any of
the tools in a right handed world. Having learned to do some thing because
that is the way they are made, I'd be uncomfortable doing the opposite. I
use my right hand to push when ripping a board. Only time I always use
my
left hand is writing and hold my other tool when taking a leak.

So you rip a board and tilt or adjust the saw blade height at the same time?
I know that's not what you meant, but it's what you're saying. Sure left or
right handed people can be trained to do any action, but without additional
information, it makes sense for someone to go the route that is most
comfortable to start with. Maybe you don't agree, but I suspect you can't
give much of an argument to the contrary. As far as bevel cutting or groove
cutting goes, I also suspect the most important thing on the mind of someone
new to a tablesaw is the cutting of straight square boards. Bevel cuts or
dados come later with practical experience, at least to my mind anyway.

Leon wrote:

Well I have a hard time chewing bubble gum and walking....sometimes...
LOL I know that cranking both at once would end up with me cranking one in
the wrong dirrection.

Ain't you ever used an Etch-a-Sketch boy?

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16573 Approximate word count: 497190
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Yeah... I was reeeeal good at straight horizontal and vertical
lines...period.