"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
igy.com...

Either situation, IMO, isn't really difficult to work around. The whole
idea of choosing something so the tilt wheel is on the side of your
dominant
hand is silly. Can you really tell me that you aren't coordinated enough
to
use the other hand if you need to? I'm right-handed, but believe it or
not,
I actually can successfully use the tilt wheel on my right-tilt with my
left
hand. Shocking.

:~) Considering that I could use my right hand to tilt the blade and my
left hand to raise the blade, I always use my right hand to do both. I did
however try to raise the blade with my left hand one time and it indeed felt
aquard. I am sure it is sometheing I could have gotten used to if I had
chosen a right tilt for the first buy 20 years ago.

And, Leon, I've seen these lists comparing right vs. left tilts and most
of
the "benefits" to left vs. right are not substantive at all. If I need to
do a bevel more than ~16 inches from the fence, then it becomes an issue.
But, which way you have to tighten the arbor nut, which side the tilt
wheel
is on, etc. really are so insignificant as to be not worth mentioning.
The
loss of shelf space is another real issue, but it isn't going to make or
break the deal.

You have probably seen my list. It is the one that points out those small
differences. My list is for those that have considered all the pro's and
con's of both versions and still need the push to go either way.

So, I have a question. Do you honestly do more beveling than dadoing?
And,
what's the use of having a nice accurate fence with a good distance
indicator if you need to use a tape measure to set the fence? More
importantly, I've used left-tilts to do dadoing and more than once I
forgot
and used the tape and screwed up some panels. Wasting wood is too
expensive, so that's what made my decision.

Absolutely. I do this for a supplimental income and build a lot of cabinets
with cabinet quality plywood. I 45 a lot of corners. Oddly in my 25 years
of serious woodworking I have never used a stacked dado set for dadoing with
the exception of cutting centered grooves on rails and styles for floating
paneled cabinet doors when I use stubb tennons joints. When I do need
dado's I use either my dado jig that I designed for my hand held router or I
use my router table.