hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.

thanks
russ
www.russkinzie.com

Let me clear up Mike's post . . . obviously confused :-)


First, get the Grizzly. Do not pass go, and you won't have to shell out
many $$.

Get the Grizzly. Period.

Ok, if you are hard-headed and want to think over something else, get a Jet
cabinetsaw.

But, remember, get the Grizzly.

Ok, if you're REALLY hard-headed, look at the Unisaw. If you must, get a
Unisaw.

One more time. Get the Grizzly.

There are many reasons, but don't cause yourself pain. Just get the
Grizzly.

Mike

You don't have to thank me, Mike. (I know you won't anyway!) LOL!

Jums



"russ" wrote in message
om...
hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.

thanks
russ
www.russkinzie.com

"Jim Mc Namara" wrote in message
.com...
Let me clear up Mike's post . . . obviously confused :-)


You guys want to settle this with pistols in the churchyard at dawn? ;-)
-- Ernie

and don't forget to get the optional saw-stop.

"Jim Mc Namara" wrote in message
.com...
Let me clear up Mike's post . . . obviously confused :-)


First, get the Grizzly. Do not pass go, and you won't have to shell out
many $$.

Get the Grizzly. Period.

Ok, if you are hard-headed and want to think over something else, get a
Jet
cabinetsaw.

But, remember, get the Grizzly.

Ok, if you're REALLY hard-headed, look at the Unisaw. If you must, get a
Unisaw.

One more time. Get the Grizzly.

There are many reasons, but don't cause yourself pain. Just get the
Grizzly.

Mike

You don't have to thank me, Mike. (I know you won't anyway!) LOL!

Jums



"russ" wrote in message
om...
hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.

thanks
russ
www.russkinzie.com

"Ernie Jurick" wrote in message:

You guys want to settle this with pistols in the churchyard at dawn? ;-)

Hell no - I'm sleeping in tomorrow. Check with Mike's secretary - have her
check with my secretary, and we'll see what time is convenient. If you have
time, that is . . . . . :-)

Jums

"Charlie Spitzer" wrote in message:
and don't forget to get the optional saw-stop.

Yeah - weiner tested too! (oh **** - here we go again!)

J

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message:
Jums' modified version of my post made me laugh too much to be upset about
this twisting of logic. hehe

LOL! Glad I got a smile out of ya Mike. I'm starting the weekend off early
(off tomorrow) so I won't be around here to crack a grin with ya.


Honestly, if you have the $ get the Unisaw, if you don't, the Grizzly is
sure to make you happy, too.

If ya got the *big* bucks - get the Norm Abrams model. :-)



But, get the Grizzly. ;-)



Mike

Get the Unisaw. In order, get the Unisaw, Powermatic 66, Jet [?] or
Grizzley. Reasons: better finish [on those I've seen], more accessories,
made in USA. harrym

"russ" wrote in message
om...
hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.

thanks
russ
www.russkinzie.com

Jim Mc Namara wrote:

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message:

Jums' modified version of my post made me laugh too much to be upset about
this twisting of logic. hehe
[snip]

Mike

Shoot. For a few extra bucks you can get the SAW of SAWS! The PM66.
This thing
will pass the nickel test, toast bread, figure your income tax, and
count the change in your pocket by radar. Take that all you Unisars and
Grizzers. ;-)
mahalo,
jo4hn

Harry,
WHich are made in USA?

If you have $$$ to burn, get anything but Griz. I would bet that you will
be very happy with the Uni, PM, or Griz. MOST people won't be able to tell
the difference IF there is one. IMHO, all tablesaws probably come from
different corners of the same building anyway :-)
I've turned out some nice product out of my griz, the same as others have
turned out fine product from theirs. Probably a Ford Vs. Chevy kind of
thing. I have found that it isn't the tablesaw that limits my ability to
make a good product, but my learning curve. For the price of a Unisaw or
PM, you can get a great Griz & maybe have enough left over for that bandsaw
and/or a small jointer.
"russ" wrote in message
om...
hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.

thanks
russ
www.russkinzie.com

Unisaw and Powermatic [unless Jet, the new owner of Powermatic, is changing
that situation]. harrym

"JLucas ILS" wrote in message
...
Harry,
WHich are made in USA?

Don't you mean Woodtek here, not Griz? Woodtek is the brand distributed by
Woodworkers Supply Inc. Have never seen one, but I do buy frequently from
the company. harrym

"Steven Bliss" wrote in message
. ..
If you have $$$ to burn, get anything but Griz.

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:29:55 GMT, "Jim Mc Namara"
wrote:

I'm sleeping in tomorrow. Check with Mike's secretary

You're sleeping with Mike's secretary ?

Get the Unisaw. You can always sell the children.

- Unless you're British, in which case get an old Wadkin.

Or alternatively, get the non-Unisaw equivalent (US, Delta something,
with big trunnions, like a Wadkin, not axle bearings like a Unisaw).

But don't get the Grizzly. You can get better than the Grizzly, and
you can get cheaper than the Grizzly, but the Grizzly is not the same
as a Unisaw equivalent. That huge weight of cast iron really is worth
having.

russ wrote:
: hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
: couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
: i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
: woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.


Get the Jet cabinet saw, which is a terrific machine and priced enough
below the Delta to pay for a really good couple of blades.

-- Andy Barss

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
digy.com...
Jums' modified version of my post made me laugh too much to be upset about
this twisting of logic. hehe

Honestly, if you have the $ get the Unisaw, if you don't, the Grizzly is
sure to make you happy, too.

But, get the Unisaw. ;-)

Mike

Don't hold back, Mike...you can tell us how you really feel...we can take
it.



Mike

"Andrew Barss" wrote in message
...

Get the Jet cabinet saw, which is a terrific machine and priced enough
below the Delta to pay for a really good couple of blades.

or the 15 roller outfeed table, or mobile base

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 21:12:50 GMT, "dan"
wrote:

I have used the Powermatic T66 and it is great also. What I liked about the
pm66 is that the blade tilts away from the fence which is safer because you
aren't pinching your stock/work under the blade and between the fence at the
same time. Again costs a fortune.

Many saws are available in left tilt. This is not feature unique to
the PM66 .

Barry

"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote

Many saws are available in left tilt. This is not feature unique to
the PM66 .

Barry


Yes you are correct.
I was pointing that out because the Unisaw tilts to the right. With that
information "russ" could make a more informed decision on what I think are
the top 2 saws readily available. Then he could decide between the more
common and easier to find accessories for Unisaw and the safer (only in the
mode of cutting between tilted blade and fence ) PM66.

Just MHO. Just trying to help. :-)

Dan

If you're selling the children go all the way
http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com.../tablesaws.htm
Joe
who's glad he was sitting down when he checked the price

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:29:55 GMT, "Jim Mc Namara"
wrote:


I'm sleeping in tomorrow. Check with Mike's secretary


You're sleeping with Mike's secretary ?

Get the Unisaw. You can always sell the children.

- Unless you're British, in which case get an old Wadkin.

Or alternatively, get the non-Unisaw equivalent (US, Delta something,
with big trunnions, like a Wadkin, not axle bearings like a Unisaw).

But don't get the Grizzly. You can get better than the Grizzly, and
you can get cheaper than the Grizzly, but the Grizzly is not the same
as a Unisaw equivalent. That huge weight of cast iron really is worth
having.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 10:54:29 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r . Keep it
in the kyou wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 21:12:50 GMT, "dan"
wrote:

I have used the Powermatic T66 and it is great also. What I liked about the
pm66 is that the blade tilts away from the fence which is safer because you
aren't pinching your stock/work under the blade and between the fence at the
same time. Again costs a fortune.

Many saws are available in left tilt. This is not feature unique to
the PM66 .

Barry


Why folks think the PM 66 "costs a fortune." Yeah, its about two
grand, but my lathe was twice that amount and I consider the PM 66 a
better value because I use it a lot. And, I've only bought ONE saw
in my life, and that will probably be the last.

"Joe Gorman" wrote in message
...
If you're selling the children go all the way
http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com.../tablesaws.htm
Joe
who's glad he was sitting down when he checked the price

Holy ****! Well, like y'all are fond of saying, buy it right the first time
and only cry once!

Rob

Who is wishing he wasn't drinking his morning Coke when he looked at the
price list.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 01:18:16 +0000, Andrew Barss wrote:

russ wrote:
: hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
: couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
: i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
: woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.


Get the Jet cabinet saw, which is a terrific machine and priced enough
below the Delta to pay for a really good couple of blades.

Well, let's see here. On Amazon, a 3HP left-tilt Unisaw with 50" Biesmeyer
fence goes for $1595. For that you can get:

Grizzly 1023L 3HP left-tilt w Biesmeyer clone fence: $895
Griz Bies clone rail extensions (to match the unisaw fence): $149
Griz 1182HW "low-end" 6" jointer: $325
Forrest WW II blade: $100

Flowers for when SWMBO sees the checkbook: $30
Dinner for after SWMBO sees the checkbook: $50

And still have $50 left over to start buying wood with.

--
Joe Wells

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike in Mystic"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 7:27 AM
Subject: tablesaws


The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a table
saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
ridiculous one when you think about it.

To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of the
blade.
To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the left of
the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the blade on a
left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still cut
yourself with either saw.

Stop the misinformation!

Mike



Most extended fences are to the right of the saw blade. Try cutting a 40" X
40" square with one edge against the fence and the other edge under your saw
blade. It doesn't take much imagination to figure out the possible results.

Not misinformation!
Dan

Sorry for sending reply directly to you Mike. I hit the wrong button.

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
digy.com...
The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a table
saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
ridiculous one when you think about it.

To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of the
blade.
To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the left of
the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the blade on a
left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still cut
yourself with either saw.

Stop the misinformation!

Mike

One fallacy with your explanation. If you are cutting bevels on both sides
of a panel that is larger than the left side rip capacity of your right tilt
saw, you end up cutting the bevel with the fence on the right side of the
saw.

That said, the advantages IMHO of a left tilt far out weigh those of those
of a right tilt especially when cutting bevels on both sides of a board or
panel, narrow or wide. You dont have to worry about the first bevel cut
sliding under the fence then cutting the second parallel bevel cut on a left
tilt saw if you leave the same side down or up.

"Bob G. " wrote

there is NO SAFETY issue between the two... in 99 point 9 percent of the cuts

I said something like that

moving the fence to the left of the blade on a right tilt saw is NOT a big deal...

Mike said that


Dan trying not to get misquoted

I always figured the Powermatic was THE SAW. The one to buy just
because it's the best. Kind of like buying a bmw over my very
serviceable toyota.

-David

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:26:21 GMT, jo4hn wrote:

Shoot. For a few extra bucks you can get the SAW of SAWS! The PM66.
This thing
will pass the nickel test, toast bread, figure your income tax, and
count the change in your pocket by radar. Take that all you Unisars and
Grizzers. ;-)
mahalo,
jo4hn

Buy a Unisaw first. Then with the difference between it and a PM 66,
go buy the Delta Industrial drill press for $700. It is nice.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 08:48:35 -0400, "Rob Walters"
wrote:


"Joe Gorman" wrote in message
...
If you're selling the children go all the way
http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com.../tablesaws.htm
Joe
who's glad he was sitting down when he checked the price

Holy ****! Well, like y'all are fond of saying, buy it right the first time
and only cry once!

Rob

Who is wishing he wasn't drinking his morning Coke when he looked at the
price list.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 15:11:59 GMT, (D) wrote:

I always figured the Powermatic was THE SAW. The one to buy just
because it's the best. Kind of like buying a bmw over my very
serviceable toyota.

-David


The PM 66 meets all the citeria of a quality tablesaw and the tablesaw
is the workhorse of most shops. Delta tablesaws used to be well-made
in the 1950's, but today the quality is not the same. I can't compare
tablesaws to vehicles because it would be rare to see a vehicle that
has lasted a lifetime. A General 350 tablesaw is also good.

Well, I suppose if you make a lot of large panels with beveled edges, then
maybe a left-tilt will be better for you. How many people actually do this?
Seriously, I'm curious, because I never have and can't really forsee needing
to either.

What I do a lot of, however, is to use stacked dado blades. Not having to
worry about adjusting my measurements due to the addition of a stacked blade
when referencing the fence scale is of much more utility to me than being
able to cut the one bevel in 5 years that I might need to cut. I cut dadoes
or rabbets tens of times on almost every project. And the whole deal about
access to the motor is valid, but that really isn't an issue either, since I
only get in there maybe 2x per year. The only really good thing about a
left-tilt is that you have more shelf space under the right-side table.

Mike

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
digy.com...
The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a
table
saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
ridiculous one when you think about it.

To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of the
blade.
To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the left
of
the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the blade on
a
left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still cut
yourself with either saw.

Stop the misinformation!

Mike

One fallacy with your explanation. If you are cutting bevels on both
sides
of a panel that is larger than the left side rip capacity of your right
tilt
saw, you end up cutting the bevel with the fence on the right side of the
saw.

That said, the advantages IMHO of a left tilt far out weigh those of those
of a right tilt especially when cutting bevels on both sides of a board or
panel, narrow or wide. You dont have to worry about the first bevel cut
sliding under the fence then cutting the second parallel bevel cut on a
left
tilt saw if you leave the same side down or up.

I hope you are correct as I just placed an order on a right tilt, thinking
that many items in the long list of reasons for a left tilt are either
overstated or are un-important to me.

-Jack


"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
digy.com...
Well, I suppose if you make a lot of large panels with beveled edges, then
maybe a left-tilt will be better for you. How many people actually do
this?
Seriously, I'm curious, because I never have and can't really forsee
needing
to either.

What I do a lot of, however, is to use stacked dado blades. Not having to
worry about adjusting my measurements due to the addition of a stacked
blade
when referencing the fence scale is of much more utility to me than being
able to cut the one bevel in 5 years that I might need to cut. I cut
dadoes
or rabbets tens of times on almost every project. And the whole deal
about
access to the motor is valid, but that really isn't an issue either, since
I
only get in there maybe 2x per year. The only really good thing about a
left-tilt is that you have more shelf space under the right-side table.

Mike

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
digy.com...
The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a
table
saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
ridiculous one when you think about it.

To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of the
blade.
To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the left
of
the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the blade
on
a
left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still
cut
yourself with either saw.

Stop the misinformation!

Mike

One fallacy with your explanation. If you are cutting bevels on both
sides
of a panel that is larger than the left side rip capacity of your right
tilt
saw, you end up cutting the bevel with the fence on the right side of
the
saw.

That said, the advantages IMHO of a left tilt far out weigh those of
those
of a right tilt especially when cutting bevels on both sides of a board
or
panel, narrow or wide. You dont have to worry about the first bevel cut
sliding under the fence then cutting the second parallel bevel cut on a
left
tilt saw if you leave the same side down or up.

Grizzly - smizzly

Get a real saw, get a Felder

I think you'll be thrilled with it, Jack.

As I said before, the only really good reason to get a left-tilt is if you
plan to do a lot of large panel beveling. I honestly don't think this will
describe very many woodworkers, but, as always, I wouldn't be surprised to
find out I'm wrong. But, if you asked yourself the question "which features
are more important to me?", then you should be very happy with your choice.
That's what I did and a right-tilt was the clear choice. I'm extremely
happy I bought it.

Mike

"JackD" wrote in message ...
I hope you are correct as I just placed an order on a right tilt, thinking
that many items in the long list of reasons for a left tilt are either
overstated or are un-important to me.

-Jack


"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
digy.com...
Well, I suppose if you make a lot of large panels with beveled edges,
then
maybe a left-tilt will be better for you. How many people actually do
this?
Seriously, I'm curious, because I never have and can't really forsee
needing
to either.

What I do a lot of, however, is to use stacked dado blades. Not having
to
worry about adjusting my measurements due to the addition of a stacked
blade
when referencing the fence scale is of much more utility to me than
being
able to cut the one bevel in 5 years that I might need to cut. I cut
dadoes
or rabbets tens of times on almost every project. And the whole deal
about
access to the motor is valid, but that really isn't an issue either,
since
I
only get in there maybe 2x per year. The only really good thing about a
left-tilt is that you have more shelf space under the right-side table.

Mike

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
digy.com...
The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a
table
saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
ridiculous one when you think about it.

To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of
the
blade.
To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the
left
of
the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the
blade
on
a
left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still
cut
yourself with either saw.

Stop the misinformation!

Mike

One fallacy with your explanation. If you are cutting bevels on both
sides
of a panel that is larger than the left side rip capacity of your
right
tilt
saw, you end up cutting the bevel with the fence on the right side of
the
saw.

That said, the advantages IMHO of a left tilt far out weigh those of
those
of a right tilt especially when cutting bevels on both sides of a
board
or
panel, narrow or wide. You dont have to worry about the first bevel
cut
sliding under the fence then cutting the second parallel bevel cut on
a
left
tilt saw if you leave the same side down or up.

"Steve Wilson" wrote in message
om...
Grizzly - smizzly

Get a real saw, get a Felder

Thats a kit saw ain't it? ;~)

"Leon" wrote in message
. ..


"Steve Wilson" wrote in message
om...
Grizzly - smizzly

Get a real saw, get a Felder

Thats a kit saw ain't it? ;~)


Naw, it's one of those saws that are owned by people who think they can
buy talent.

"JackD" wrote in message ...
I hope you are correct as I just placed an order on a right tilt, thinking
that many items in the long list of reasons for a left tilt are either
overstated or are un-important to me.

-Jack


LOL... well too late now.. I'm sure you will be happy with it and be able to
work around any thing that may come up. In a professional setting the
differences may nag at you when you are on the saw for many hours a week and
were used to the opposite tilt.

BTY, you have seen the long list of reasons to get the left over the right
and I agreed most are strictly personal preference but when you compared the
long list of reasons to get the left tilt vs. the reasons to the right tilt,
what reason on the right tilt list swayed you to choose the right tilt? I
don't know if you have seen my "rubber stamp" answer to choosing one over
the other but it gives you the little things to think about if you cannot
decide which way to go and I may add your reasons to the right tilt
reasoning.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 10:21:46 -0500, V.E. Dorn wrote:

You didn't include shipping, but I get the idea - and agree with you. It's
just that I'd have to forgoe the flowers and dinner to help offset.

I figured that shipping, taxes, etc. would be a wash. I guess the Griz
combo would be more to ship because of the jointer, but then I live close
enough to their Springfield, MO store to just pick it up. ;^)

--
Joe Wells

Well, no, but that is one of the reasons I use in my rubber stamp reply.
An exception would be if you are will be cutting a lot of grooves or dados
at different distances from the edge of the wood, the right tilt would
probably be the better choice regardless if you are right or left handed.



"Upscale" wrote in message
able.rogers.com...
"Leon" wrote in message
news
"JackD" wrote in message
...

BTY, you have seen the long list of reasons to get the left over the
right
and I agreed most are strictly personal preference but when you compared
the
long list of reasons to get the left tilt vs. the reasons to the right
tilt,
what reason on the right tilt list swayed you to choose the right tilt?

The best reason is practical. If you're right handed, then it makes sense
to
go with left tilt and the wheel on the right. Left handed, then it's
pretty
obvious to go with right tilt. Can't get more practical with that.

Normally it would be a wash...but IIRC Amazon often offers free shipping.


"Joe Wells" wrote in message
s.com...
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 10:21:46 -0500, V.E. Dorn wrote:

You didn't include shipping, but I get the idea - and agree with you.
It's
just that I'd have to forgoe the flowers and dinner to help offset.

I figured that shipping, taxes, etc. would be a wash. I guess the Griz
combo would be more to ship because of the jointer, but then I live close
enough to their Springfield, MO store to just pick it up. ;^)

--
Joe Wells

Mike in Mystic wrote:

I think you'll be thrilled with it, Jack.

As I said before, the only really good reason to get a left-tilt is if you
plan to do a lot of large panel beveling. I honestly don't think this will
describe very many woodworkers, but, as always, I wouldn't be surprised to
find out I'm wrong. But, if you asked yourself the question "which features
are more important to me?", then you should be very happy with your choice.
That's what I did and a right-tilt was the clear choice. I'm extremely
happy I bought it.

Mike


Mike,

I had a right-tilt 9" Rockwell many years ago, something never felt
right with it even though for what I was asking it did just fine, I gave
it to my dad about 20 years ago and it's still running. Since then every
saw I've purchased (3), including my jobsite saw, has been a left-tilt.
This deal about having to deal with a dado blade is a wash, it's a piece
of cake to handle and shouldn't be blown out of proportion. Personally,
I like to know that I can make all of the cuts I want with my fence on
the right of the blade. A left-hander might feel differently..and that
is when I, if I was in that situation, would make the decision to
reverse the mounting of the fence to get the same features.

JMHO,
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.