I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.

wrote:
I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of
the stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle
back toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like
the crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end.
So the front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees
and beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the
return, after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone
give me any advise about how to do this? Is it even possible?
THANKS for your help.

A pic of the obstruction would be nice?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

I don't have a picture, i can try a little diagram but these things
don't usually turn out too well:

______________________
/ --34 degrees
/
/
/
/
/
___________/_________

(the slope of the wall follows the slope of the stairs to the attic)

wrote:
I don't have a picture, i can try a little diagram but these things
don't usually turn out too well:

______________________
/ --34 degrees
/
/
/
/
/
___________/_________

(the slope of the wall follows the slope of the stairs to the attic)

Sorry but thats about as useful as a chocolate fireguard to me,dunno about
others?
Anyway don't know if this is of any use and you possibly you will have to
source one in the US.
http://tinyurl.co.uk/pg7d
This item gets pushed against the job for the profile of the area and an
exact replica gets profiled in the blades and you just put up against the
material in question draw the line and cut. ;-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
.uk...
wrote:
I don't have a picture, i can try a little diagram but these things
don't usually turn out too well:

______________________
/ --34 degrees
/
/
/
/
/
___________/_________

(the slope of the wall follows the slope of the stairs to the attic)

Sorry but thats about as useful as a chocolate fireguard to me,dunno about
others?
Anyway don't know if this is of any use and you possibly you will have to
source one in the US.
http://tinyurl.co.uk/pg7d
This item gets pushed against the job for the profile of the area and an
exact replica gets profiled in the blades and you just put up against the
material in question draw the line and cut. ;-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite


The image seems clear to me. I believe he has a room that has a section of
the wall going up at an angle because there are stairs on the other side of
the wall. So basically this will be an outside corner, where one wall is 90
deg to the ceiling and one wall angled. Coping this is not really an option.

If you have a CMS or tablesaw you can test using scrap 2x lumber. I've never
had to install molding on such a wall, but since the crown does not have a
slope angle, it seems to me that the piece on the strait wall would need to
be beveled at 45 deg and mitered at the angle of the wall. The piece on the
angled wall would be just beveled at 45 deg. Of course since the wall is not
at 90 deg to the ceiling, you are going to have a gap between the molding
and the ceiling:

Then again, I might be totally misunderstanding your question.

I think you understand my problem correctly. But the issue seems to
be, when you miter the molding at a 34 degree angle, the length of the
cut edge is maybe 10". If I just bevel the return at 45 deg., I will be
trying to line up a 10" edge with a 6" edge. When I cut the return at
a 34 degree angle also, it seems to go in a different direction (down
from the ceiling, instead of back towards the wall). Which makes me
think I am not orienting the return piece correctly on the CMS when i
cut it. But I have tried turning it around, upside down and backwards,
and I still can't get it to work.

On 15 Sep 2006 09:29:58 -0700, wrote:

I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.


As Sir Ben pointed out, a pic of the location would help. Post it in
the binary group if you can sanp one.
Otherwise, I think you will be dealing with splitting the angle. Run a
line on both planes and then interesct them and that is your cut
lines.
If you are trying to Return the piece that is on the 34' slope, your
Return cannot be level......is that the issue?
Based on the images on the website you should be able to handle it
like any other Crown.

It's hard to understand exactly what your issue is, but it sounds a bit to
me like you are making a corner and starting a slope all at the same time?

wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.


I don't have the exact answer but I just did a search using "cutting crown
molding" and came up with many sites that show how to make some of the
"weirdest" cuts you'll come across. There were sites that had tables for
the miter and bevel angles needed for various applications (i.e. cathedral
ceilings).

The cathedral ceiling one appeared to best fit what you're trying to do
http://www.compoundmiter.com/cathedral_ceiling.html

http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/ar...odworking&ID=2

http://www.installcrown.com/

http://www.altereagle.com/5_How_to_insta.html

http://www.installcrown.com/Crown_molding_Links.html has more links

Bob S.

On 15 Sep 2006 09:29:58 -0700, wrote:

I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.

It is not possible. The only return that works would be square to the
plane of the sloped ceiling.

Ted