compound miter question
 

I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.

compound miter question
 

wrote:
I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of
the stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle
back toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like
the crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end.
So the front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees
and beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the
return, after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone
give me any advise about how to do this? Is it even possible?
THANKS for your help.

A pic of the obstruction would be nice?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

compound miter question
 

I don't have a picture, i can try a little diagram but these things
don't usually turn out too well:

______________________
/ --34 degrees
/
/
/
/
/
___________/_________

(the slope of the wall follows the slope of the stairs to the attic)

compound miter question
 

wrote:
I don't have a picture, i can try a little diagram but these things
don't usually turn out too well:

______________________
/ --34 degrees
/
/
/
/
/
___________/_________

(the slope of the wall follows the slope of the stairs to the attic)

Sorry but thats about as useful as a chocolate fireguard to me,dunno about
others?
Anyway don't know if this is of any use and you possibly you will have to
source one in the US.
http://tinyurl.co.uk/pg7d
This item gets pushed against the job for the profile of the area and an
exact replica gets profiled in the blades and you just put up against the
material in question draw the line and cut. ;-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

compound miter question
 

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
.uk...
wrote:
I don't have a picture, i can try a little diagram but these things
don't usually turn out too well:

______________________
/ --34 degrees
/
/
/
/
/
___________/_________

(the slope of the wall follows the slope of the stairs to the attic)

Sorry but thats about as useful as a chocolate fireguard to me,dunno about
others?
Anyway don't know if this is of any use and you possibly you will have to
source one in the US.
http://tinyurl.co.uk/pg7d
This item gets pushed against the job for the profile of the area and an
exact replica gets profiled in the blades and you just put up against the
material in question draw the line and cut. ;-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite


The image seems clear to me. I believe he has a room that has a section of
the wall going up at an angle because there are stairs on the other side of
the wall. So basically this will be an outside corner, where one wall is 90
deg to the ceiling and one wall angled. Coping this is not really an option.

If you have a CMS or tablesaw you can test using scrap 2x lumber. I've never
had to install molding on such a wall, but since the crown does not have a
slope angle, it seems to me that the piece on the strait wall would need to
be beveled at 45 deg and mitered at the angle of the wall. The piece on the
angled wall would be just beveled at 45 deg. Of course since the wall is not
at 90 deg to the ceiling, you are going to have a gap between the molding
and the ceiling:

Then again, I might be totally misunderstanding your question. :)

compound miter question
 

I think you understand my problem correctly. But the issue seems to
be, when you miter the molding at a 34 degree angle, the length of the
cut edge is maybe 10". If I just bevel the return at 45 deg., I will be
trying to line up a 10" edge with a 6" edge. When I cut the return at
a 34 degree angle also, it seems to go in a different direction (down
from the ceiling, instead of back towards the wall). Which makes me
think I am not orienting the return piece correctly on the CMS when i
cut it. But I have tried turning it around, upside down and backwards,
and I still can't get it to work.

compound miter question
 

On 15 Sep 2006 09:29:58 -0700, wrote:

I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.


As Sir Ben pointed out, a pic of the location would help. Post it in
the binary group if you can sanp one.
Otherwise, I think you will be dealing with splitting the angle. Run a
line on both planes and then interesct them and that is your cut
lines.
If you are trying to Return the piece that is on the 34' slope, your
Return cannot be level......is that the issue?
Based on the images on the website you should be able to handle it
like any other Crown.

compound miter question
 

compound miter question
 

It's hard to understand exactly what your issue is, but it sounds a bit to
me like you are making a corner and starting a slope all at the same time?

wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.

compound miter question
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.


I don't have the exact answer but I just did a search using "cutting crown
molding" and came up with many sites that show how to make some of the
"weirdest" cuts you'll come across. There were sites that had tables for
the miter and bevel angles needed for various applications (i.e. cathedral
ceilings).

The cathedral ceiling one appeared to best fit what you're trying to do
http://www.compoundmiter.com/cathedral_ceiling.html

http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/ar...odworking&ID=2

http://www.installcrown.com/

http://www.altereagle.com/5_How_to_insta.html

http://www.installcrown.com/Crown_molding_Links.html has more links

Bob S.

compound miter question
 

On 15 Sep 2006 09:29:58 -0700, wrote:

I've been putting up foam crown molding in my house (I feel you
cringing, but it's an old house--wavy walls and ceilings, nothing is
square, etc...). The stuff we got is from "creative crown"
(www.foamcrownmolding.com if you need a picture). Unlike wood crown,
this stuff has a solid back (more or less triangle in shape when you
look at in profile). The side that sits against the wall is 6", the
side that sits on the ceiling is 3-3/16". I had no problems with
inside corners, outside corners, etc., but now I'm stuck trying to
figure out how to make a return at the end of an angled wall. We have
stacked staircases, so on the second floor, the wall on one side of the
stairs slopes down from the ceiling at about a 34 degree angle back
toward the bottom of the stairs to the third floor. I would like the
crown to follow the slope of the wall with a return at the end. So the
front piece, it seems, will need to be mitered at 34 degrees and
beveled at 45 degrees. But I cannot figure out how to cut the return,
after many hours and 12 wasted feet of molding. Can anyone give me any
advise about how to do this? Is it even possible? THANKS for your
help.

It is not possible. The only return that works would be square to the
plane of the sloped ceiling.

Ted

compound miter question
 

(in
) said:

| I think you understand my problem correctly. But the issue seems
| to be, when you miter the molding at a 34 degree angle, the length
| of the cut edge is maybe 10". If I just bevel the return at 45
| deg., I will be trying to line up a 10" edge with a 6" edge. When
| I cut the return at a 34 degree angle also, it seems to go in a
| different direction (down from the ceiling, instead of back towards
| the wall). Which makes me think I am not orienting the return piece
| correctly on the CMS when i cut it. But I have tried turning it
| around, upside down and backwards, and I still can't get it to work.

The cut pieces can match up properly only if the lengths of the cut
edges are equal. The only way to make that happen is to cut each of
the pieces at 1/2 the angle between them.

BTW, a good way to avoid confusion with questions like this is to take
a digital photo (borrow a friend's camera - and friend - if necessary)
and post an article with photo attached to the
news:alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking newsgroup.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

compound miter question
 

Okay, I still haven't figured it out, but I have taken a couple
pictures:

1. This is the sloped wall I'm dealing with, from the floor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lfromfloor.jpg
and head on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...angledwall.jpg

2. Here is one of the test crown cuts I made. It more or less follows
the slope of the wall (only the right side matters here, the left side
of the crown was cut for another test piece!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...77/testcut.jpg

3. Here is the test piece from the end. It goes back to the wall at 45
degrees.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../fromfront.jpg

I need to make a return to finish off that end, but it also needs to
follow the slope of the wall. I'm not trying to wrap around the
corner. The ceiling is flat. (Well, its a little bumpy, but its
*supposed* to be flat.)

Does this clarify the situation? Any new suggestions? Thanks!

compound miter question
 

On 17 Sep 2006 20:34:49 -0700, wrote:

Okay, I still haven't figured it out, but I have taken a couple
pictures:

1. This is the sloped wall I'm dealing with, from the floor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lfromfloor.jpg
and head on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...angledwall.jpg

2. Here is one of the test crown cuts I made. It more or less follows
the slope of the wall (only the right side matters here, the left side
of the crown was cut for another test piece!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...77/testcut.jpg

3. Here is the test piece from the end. It goes back to the wall at 45
degrees.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../fromfront.jpg

I need to make a return to finish off that end, but it also needs to
follow the slope of the wall. I'm not trying to wrap around the
corner. The ceiling is flat. (Well, its a little bumpy, but its
*supposed* to be flat.)

Does this clarify the situation? Any new suggestions? Thanks!


I believe your best bet will be to *fill in* the angled slope first so
that it resembles a standard plumb wall.
The molding is made for a 90 degree (ceiling/wall) application, so you
are not going to be able to intersect those angles unless you build
out the 37 degree void.

compound miter question
 

Joe Bemier wrote:
On 17 Sep 2006 20:34:49 -0700, wrote:

Okay, I still haven't figured it out, but I have taken a couple
pictures:

1. This is the sloped wall I'm dealing with, from the floor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lfromfloor.jpg
and head on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...angledwall.jpg

2. Here is one of the test crown cuts I made. It more or less
follows the slope of the wall (only the right side matters here, the
left side of the crown was cut for another test piece!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...77/testcut.jpg

3. Here is the test piece from the end. It goes back to the wall at
45 degrees.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../fromfront.jpg

I need to make a return to finish off that end, but it also needs to
follow the slope of the wall. I'm not trying to wrap around the
corner. The ceiling is flat. (Well, its a little bumpy, but its
*supposed* to be flat.)

Does this clarify the situation? Any new suggestions? Thanks!


I believe your best bet will be to *fill in* the angled slope first so
that it resembles a standard plumb wall.
The molding is made for a 90 degree (ceiling/wall) application, so you
are not going to be able to intersect those angles unless you build
out the 37 degree void.

Yes,it cannot be done the way your are thinking,you're going to have put a
square section so that it hangs down at 90 degrees to the wall.
And to be honest this will look a lot better.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

compound miter question
 

On 17 Sep 2006 20:34:49 -0700, wrote:

Okay, I still haven't figured it out, but I have taken a couple
pictures:

1. This is the sloped wall I'm dealing with, from the floor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lfromfloor.jpg
and head on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...angledwall.jpg

2. Here is one of the test crown cuts I made. It more or less follows
the slope of the wall (only the right side matters here, the left side
of the crown was cut for another test piece!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...77/testcut.jpg

3. Here is the test piece from the end. It goes back to the wall at 45
degrees.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../fromfront.jpg

I need to make a return to finish off that end, but it also needs to
follow the slope of the wall. I'm not trying to wrap around the
corner. The ceiling is flat. (Well, its a little bumpy, but its
*supposed* to be flat.)

Does this clarify the situation? Any new suggestions? Thanks!

It cannot be done- the only return that works is a standard 45. To
clarify, imagine a 1x4 in place of the crown (placed flat against the
wall). After you mitered it at a 34 degree angle with a 45 degree
bevel, the stock width needed for the return to the wall would be
4.22" rather than 3.5" (and two additional cuts would be needed to
keep the top and bottom on the same plane). If you ignore the top and
bottom problem, you would need a piece of crown with a profile
"stretched" to 120% of the stock profile for a 34 degree return to
work.

Ted