Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?

Thank you.

II

wrote in message
oups.com...
Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?

Maybe. What are you cutting? How many teeth per inch on the blade? Has
the saw been set up properly to track straight? Are the guides set right?
Bearings? Are you cutting freehand or using a fence?

wrote in message
oups.com...
Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?

Thank you.

II


Wider blades generally provide for straighter cuts. You also need to adjust
your fence for blade drift.

wrote:
Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?

A deeper blade helps, yes. You should be able to get pretty smooth cuts
even with a 1/4" blade though, with only light planing necessary to
smooth it. I think the main purpose of a deeper blade, though, is to
keep the cut straight.

If you aren't getting that now, and don't want to buy a deeper blade,
there are a number of things you can look for to get a smoother cut,
including reducing vibration in the saw, ensuring the guides are
properly set to limit lateral movement of the blade, checking the wheels
for dirt, making sure the drive train is balanced, and properly
tensioning the blade. Fussy, innit?

er
--
email not valid

On 16 Apr 2006 16:16:34 -0700, wrote:

Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys

You always will. It's not a finishing blade as in a TS. That's why
sandpaper was invented.

"Toller" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?

Certainly a wider blade is for straight cuts, and a 1/4" is fairly thin.
Or it could just be the bandsaw...
I used to borrow a friends when I needed a bandsaw and could never cut
anything straight, or accurately follow a curve. I figured bandsaws were
over rated.
Then I bought my own. It cuts straight when I want it to, and follows
curves pretty easily. YMMV


Check your blade tension first. If it's not set for your type blade i. e.
1/2, 3/8", etc. your cuts will be crappy.

Bandsaw is not meant to be a precision machine, but some consderations
may help: Smooth weld on the blade, no kinks, go SLOWER, go EVEN SLOWER,
keep bearing close to the job. Use spindle sander after. LOL

"You also need to adjust your fence for blade drift."
********************************Fence? Blade drift?

Not related.

Well, I have to admit that the saw does vibrate ALOT and that I haven't
checked the guides for lateral movement in some time. I think there may
be something to comment about it being partly the saw too. This bandsaw
is really cheap model from Sears and leaves much to be desired! I will
take a look at all the things you guys have mentioned.........you are a
great help, thank you!

II

"RM MS" wrote in message
...
"You also need to adjust your fence for blade drift."
********************************Fence? Blade drift?

Not related.


You don't think? I read that as the cut was not following the line.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?

Thank you.

II


Where are you located? It sounds like you could use some help to take you
to the next level. I am outside Seattle and would be happy to give you a
hand.

"RM MS" wrote in message
...
Bandsaw is not meant to be a precision machine, but some consderations
may help: Smooth weld on the blade, no kinks, go SLOWER, go EVEN SLOWER,
keep bearing close to the job. Use spindle sander after. LOL


I know you use big industrial band saws but I have seen band saws do some
pretty precise resawing and ripping. And by precise I am comparing to my
TS that typically leaves no tooth marks.

Leon wrote:
"RM MS" wrote in message
...

"You also need to adjust your fence for blade drift."
********************************Fence? Blade drift?

Not related.



You don't think? I read that as the cut was not following the line.

I saw that too, second time around. I'm sticking with the first
interpretation!

er
--
email not valid

wrote:
Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin,
may 1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?

Do you mean...

1. that the cut wanders from the line? That's your fault.

2. that the cut isn't smooth? That's the way bandsaw blades cut -
rough from the tooth marks. But the roughness should be easily removed
with sanding/scraping. If it is rougher than you think it should be,
make sure the blade tension is right and try different feed rates.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I read 'blade drift' to mean the blade was not cutting where it was
pointed at. This can be caused by a crooked or bent bade, a blade with
too much pressure on the rear bearing, too little blade tension, or the
workpiece is not flat or warped, the cut closes as it is cut, any number
of things besides the fence. If you cannot hold the piece against and
follow the fence, t is not a blade problem

I never said you cannot do some nice work on a bandsaw. We also use
smaller ones, but as has been related here, everyhing must be pretty
shipshpe to get a nice finish, and it will never be as nice as a planed
or scraped surface, nor was it ever intended to be.

"RM MS" wrote in message
...
I read 'blade drift' to mean the blade was not cutting where it was
pointed at. This can be caused by a crooked or bent bade, a blade with
too much pressure on the rear bearing, too little blade tension, or the
workpiece is not flat or warped, the cut closes as it is cut, any number
of things besides the fence. If you cannot hold the piece against and
follow the fence, t is not a blade problem


You probably read correctly.

"RM MS" wrote in message
...
I never said you cannot do some nice work on a bandsaw. We also use
smaller ones, but as has been related here, everyhing must be pretty
shipshpe to get a nice finish, and it will never be as nice as a planed
or scraped surface, nor was it ever intended to be.


Agreed.

I tightened up the guides and I also increased the tension on the
blade. These small adjustments made a BIG difference in the cuts. I
will buy a deeper blade tomorrow and see if additional improvements can
be made. Thank you for the help guys!

II

wrote:
I tightened up the guides and I also increased the tension on the
blade. These small adjustments made a BIG difference in the cuts. I
will buy a deeper blade tomorrow and see if additional improvements
can be made. Thank you for the help guys!

If by "deeper" you mean wider and you want a wonderful blade for
resawing, get a Wood Slicer blade from Highland Hardware - *much* better
than the Timber Wolf blades.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I've also just read that another cause is because only one side of the
blade (the inside) is against the wheels. The outside of the blade
never rubs against anything - that can make the inward set teeth wear
differently from the outward set teeth.

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 13:52:20 -0400, (RM MS) wrote:

I read 'blade drift' to mean the blade was not cutting where it was
pointed at. This can be caused by a crooked or bent bade, a blade with
too much pressure on the rear bearing, too little blade tension, or the
workpiece is not flat or warped, the cut closes as it is cut, any number
of things besides the fence. If you cannot hold the piece against and
follow the fence, t is not a blade problem