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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#1
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![]() I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. |
#2
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A planer, but you'd probably be better off to just buy a cheap hand
plane. There's no need to spend a bunch of money on an electric hand-held planer when you can do the job in 30 seconds with a neander one. Josh |
#3
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#4
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![]() wrote in message ups.com... I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. I have corrected this problem on some exterior doors by simply wiping a dry lubricant or wax on the door edge in particular in the area where the door sticks. Try that before cutting the door. |
#5
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![]() Josh wrote: A planer, but you'd probably be better off to just buy a cheap hand plane. There's no need to spend a bunch of money on an electric hand-held planer when you can do the job in 30 seconds with a neander one. Josh Hi, a cheap electric planer is not much more expensive than a manual one. That's the one I'm planning to get. http://tinyurl.com/noa52 |
#6
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#7
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On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 06:20:33 GMT, "Leon"
wrote: I have corrected this problem on some exterior doors by simply wiping a dry lubricant or wax on the door edge in particular in the area where the door sticks. Try that before cutting the door. A good temporary solution, but cures the symptoms, not the disease. |
#8
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Where are you located that doors expand in the winter?
wrote in message ups.com... I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. |
#9
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Guess who wrote:
snip A little hand sanding when done, then paint, and ***you won't see the flaws if you don't look.*** A guiding principle for many situations. (stars added by me). -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA To learn more about paranoids, follow them around! ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#10
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![]() "Guess who" wrote in message ... On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 06:20:33 GMT, "Leon" wrote: I have corrected this problem on some exterior doors by simply wiping a dry lubricant or wax on the door edge in particular in the area where the door sticks. Try that before cutting the door. A good temporary solution, but cures the symptoms, not the disease. Well, I put a dab of silicone on my fathers front door that had been gradually hanging worse and worse for about 4 or 5 years, year round, and that was 10 years ago and it is still opening and closing fine. This is a now 32 year old house. I think the method described I should be the first course of action followed by actually resquaring the door jamb which is more work but the correct repair. Whittling down the door is also really a cure of the symptom. I did actually have to resquare one of the other exterior door jambs in his house. While I have replaced several door and door jambs I some shot a nail at an angle and nailed the door permanently shut while putting the inside molding back on. My dad got a big kick out of that. :~) |
#12
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On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 15:09:48 GMT, "Leon"
wrote: Well, I put a dab of silicone on my fathers front door that had been gradually hanging worse and worse for about 4 or 5 years, year round, and that was 10 years ago and it is still opening and closing fine. This is a now 32 year old house. Sometimes the magic works, and sometimes it doesn't. [Chief Dan George.] Also, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. My house is much older than that, and still moving around some. In fact, I just recently redid the bathroom and had to plane the door slightly so that the newly applied paint wouldn't be rubbed off. No silicon of use there. While I have replaced several door and door jambs I some shot a nail at an angle and nailed the door permanently shut while putting the inside molding back on. My dad got a big kick out of that. :~) Mine was stapling a couple of pieces while holding them together with the other hand. |
#13
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![]() "Guess who" wrote in message news ![]() On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 15:09:48 GMT, "Leon" wrote: While I have replaced several door and door jambs I some shot a nail at an angle and nailed the door permanently shut while putting the inside molding back on. My dad got a big kick out of that. :~) Mine was stapling a couple of pieces while holding them together with the other hand. And there is always some one watching when you do something like that, right? LOL |
#14
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A planer should give a better looking result.
Don Dando wrote in message ups.com... I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. |
#15
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In article . com,
wrote: What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? You don't need any electric tool. A block plane or sureform rasp will work just fine. -- Talking about art is like dancing about architecture - Frank Zappa |
#16
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I had the same problem with 5 doors in our 2 yr old house. I planed the
doors with a power planer because there was too much to plan by hand. My suggestion is to scribe a line down the door before you plane. This way you will get an even gap between the door and the frame. If you power plan it, scrape the paint off the edge first. The paint will cause a knick in you blade. Good luck. |
#17
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The proper tool is a screwdriver.
Before you chop anything off, shim the hinges and make sure the door isn't simply rubbing on the frame due to settling. Once you cut off part of a door that previously fit properly there is no going back. wrote: I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. |
#18
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![]() Bigpole wrote: Where are you located that doors expand in the winter? A northern part of Europe. wrote in message ups.com... I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. |
#19
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![]() no(SPAM)vasys wrote: wrote: I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. Doors usually expand with high humidity (summer) and shrink with low humidity (winter). The first thing I check is the hinge screws to make sure they haven't loosened. I have a completely opposite experience. They expand in the winter and become a struggle to open and close, and in the summer they're just fine. Perhaps your winters are not as wet and frosty as they are here. -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove -SPAM- to send email) |
#20
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Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA wrote: wrote: I have a completely opposite experience. They expand in the winter and become a struggle to open and close, and in the summer they're just fine. Perhaps your winters are not as wet and frosty as they are here. Prolly not, Buffaflo is know for its mild dry winters. |
#21
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My tool of choice is a wood rasp followed by a little sandpaper. Just touch
the high spots. wrote in message ups.com... I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. |
#22
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#23
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Well, from one craftsman to another, I agree with most of what he said
however with one caveat! Never Never Never mess with the latch side of the door. There are 2 back sets that locks come with ( 2 3/8's and 2 3/4's). The first of which is a residential backset and the second is the standard commercial backset. DON'T CHANGE THE BACKSET!!!!!! You can change the hinge set all day long without changing the setup on the door, but if you alter the backset of the lockset, then your destined for trouble. Trust me on this, I see it everyday. Not only am I a "newbie" to woodworking, but I'm also a Certified Master Locksmith. Thats right, I deal with doors everyday all day. Please don't do this, it will only cause problems that you don't want. BTW, I'm relatively new to this group and humbly introuduce myself therefore. Jack "Karl B" wrote in message 7.131... wrote in news:1141101589.148551.96390 @v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com: I have a few doors that seem to have expanded this winter and won't close properly, or open easily, they just get stuck, it's a struggle. What electric tool do I need to shave a bit of wood off them? is it an electric grinder, sander, or planer? Many thanks and regards. You don't say where the door is binding, and that has a bearing on what the solution is. You may want to inspect the hinges, both jamb and door to ensure that something didn't come loose. Then assuming that is in order, If it is the bottom of the door that is dragging, look at the top margin of the door/jamb. If it is consistent acroos the top, then you will probably have to trim the bottom. If it is not consistent, then loosen up one leaf of the bottom hinge and place two pieces of paper board ( cereal box kinda stuff)behind the hinge. This will have the effect of moving the bottom of the door over toward the latch jamb and the top of the door up. If it is the top of the door that is binding, a belt sander will take off a little at a time and prevent the big OMG of a planer when it is going across end grain. If it is the latch side of the door, the belt sander will work just as well. Before I would foul up the finish though, I would try to reset the nails and maybe put in a few more in the right location to try to suck the jamb back in place. It is easier to putty a few hols than to re-finish the door. Good luck an let us know how it turns out |
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