Hi all:

This is my first dresser project. Face frame with inset doors
I am building the drawers first.
My boxes are 36" wide x 23" deep, dovetailed construction. I have to add a 3/4"
face to this depth also.
I have not glued them up, so I can shorten them up if nessary.
I am looking at the Blum specs for the slides\0\0\0I would like full extension, like the 430E6000
Any thoughts oh great dust makers

Accuride's nice, too. Good luck. Tom

I am not set any any one brand.

Do you even need hardware? Tom

I could do the wood runner thing, but this is practice for future Kitchn
cabinets.
Not my first project, but proubly the most exacting yet, inset doors and 8
drawers.
I made an Entertainment center with pull out Cd storage. Used borg hardware,
crappy rails .
I will proubly order one set to play with.
The accuride site does have nice guides for installation.

tdevery wrote in message news
I could do the wood runner thing, but this is practice for future Kitchn
cabinets.

Although sequencing your skills development is an excellent idea, IMHO that
is not worth compromising the character of a dresser which, if done well
will be around alot longer than a kitchen.

I figure the half-life of a kitchen is about 15-20 years (half of them are
re-remodeled in that time frame) even if built well. Well-built dressers
should have a half-life of four times that.

Maybe I'm just being a snob, but metal glides in a dresser look so
"wallmart". Please don't do it.

-Steve

tdevery wrote in message

This is my first dresser project. Face frame with inset doors
I am building the drawers first.

My sympathies in advance ... reconsider, and build them after your casework
is complete and you decide upon the slides you are going to use.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

In article ,
"Swingman" wrote:

tdevery wrote in message

This is my first dresser project. Face frame with inset doors
I am building the drawers first.

My sympathies in advance ... reconsider, and build them after your casework
is complete and you decide upon the slides you are going to use.



I agree with Swingman on this one. Build the dresser and then fit the
drawers to the cabinet. Much easier to tweak a drawer to fit and opening
than to tweak an opening to fit an existing drawer.

david

--

www.brndogwoodworks.com

David wrote: I agree with Swingman on this one. Build the dresser and
then fit the
drawers to the cabinet. Much easier to tweak a drawer to fit and
opening
than to tweak an opening to fit an existing drawer.


(that's why I wished the OP luck.) Tom

I don't know much about woodworking, but I think you're supposed to
build the case first, then the drawers. Each drawer then can be custom
fit to the opening if need be. It would be really hard to build a case
around a set of drawers and get the same fit.

Mike

tdevery wrote in message news
Hi all:

This is my first dresser project. Face frame with inset doors
I am building the drawers first.

If you build it this way this time, you will probably reverse the order if
you ever do it again.

Not a bad Idea to plan the size of the drawers first because with many DT
jigs you are limited to specific increments in drawer height but not a great
idea building them first.


My boxes are 36" wide x 23" deep, dovetailed construction. I have to add a
3/4"
face to this depth also.
I have not glued them up, so I can shorten them up if nessary.
I am looking at the Blum specs for the slides I would like full
extension, like the 430E6000
Any thoughts oh great dust makers

Personally I do not like metal slides on pieces of furniture. I would
suggest simply building hard wood web frames and drawer sides and build to
close tolerances.

Even undermount metal glides?

brian

Not a snob but maybe amero-centric. A lot of high quality
european furniture uses metal glides and they're very nice.
You don't have to use cheap ones.

Stephen M wrote:

Maybe I'm just being a snob, but metal glides in a dresser look so
"wallmart". Please don't do it.

I think the idea is that you don't want to hide the joinery.
Undermounts or no hardware makes for a much cleaner look. I really
liket he feel of a ball bearing slide though. I'm using full extension
slides on my current project, but it's a shop project so I don't care
so much.

I'm also very interested in the idea of nature combined with
technology. I could see somehow working the drawer slides into a
project so that they look like they belong, almost like a cyborg-tree
that decided to grow metal drawer slides, maybe by air-brushing the
slides so that the colors exactly match the wood near the front of the
drawer, but turn into hard shiny metal as you go back. Never mind.
I'm just babbling and thinking out loud.

brian

Stephen M wrote:

Maybe I'm just being a snob, but metal glides in a dresser look so
"wallmart". Please don't do it.

I second the motion. There should be no metal in a dresser meant as
fine furniture.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

"brianlanning" wrote in message
I think the idea is that you don't want to hide the joinery.
Undermounts or no hardware makes for a much cleaner look. I really
liket he feel of a ball bearing slide though. I'm using full extension
slides on my current project, but it's a shop project so I don't care
so much.

I'm also very interested in the idea of nature combined with
technology. I could see somehow working the drawer slides into a
project so that they look like they belong, almost like a cyborg-tree
that decided to grow metal drawer slides, maybe by air-brushing the
slides so that the colors exactly match the wood near the front of the
drawer, but turn into hard shiny metal as you go back. Never mind.
I'm just babbling and thinking out loud.

The last kitchen I built I used Hittich QuadroV6, full extension
undermounts. A well engineered slide, with a very expensive feel and, being
completely hidden, one which I wouldn't hesitate to use on some furniture
projects.

http://www.ovisonline.com/Woodworkin...ides/under.htm

--
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Last update: 12/13/05

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
The last kitchen I built I used Hittich QuadroV6, full extension
undermounts. A well engineered slide, with a very expensive feel and,
being
completely hidden, one which I wouldn't hesitate to use on some furniture
projects.

http://www.ovisonline.com/Woodworkin...ides/under.htm

Do you buy those locally? Like at Cornerstone Hardware and Supply. Usta be
Cabinet Makers Hardware. I see their catalog has Quadro V6 Concealed Drawer
Slides.

"Leon" wrote in message

"Swingman" wrote in message

The last kitchen I built I used Hittich QuadroV6, full extension
undermounts. A well engineered slide, with a very expensive feel and,
being
completely hidden, one which I wouldn't hesitate to use on some
furniture
projects.

http://www.ovisonline.com/Woodworkin...ides/under.htm

Do you buy those locally? Like at Cornerstone Hardware and Supply. Usta
be
Cabinet Makers Hardware. I see their catalog has Quadro V6 Concealed
Drawer
Slides.

Yes, that's where I buy them. Not the ea$iest folks in town to deal with,
but not a bad place for one $top cabinet hardware $hopping.

On that same note, there is a place tucked into a warehouse strip center off
of old Katy Road that sells slides and hardware _real_ cheap. Can't remember
the name, but my truck knows the way ... I could probably dig it up if
you're not familiar with the place. That said, the Hittich slides would
probably be too high dollar for them to handle.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

Yes, that's where I buy them. Not the ea$iest folks in town to deal with,
but not a bad place for one $top cabinet hardware $hopping.

I have not problems with them. I bought Kreg pocket hole screws there a
couple of months ago, the 2.5" ones for 2x material, 500 screws for about
$10.


On that same note, there is a place tucked into a warehouse strip center
off
of old Katy Road that sells slides and hardware _real_ cheap. Can't
remember
the name, but my truck knows the way ... I could probably dig it up if
you're not familiar with the place. That said, the Hittich slides would
probably be too high dollar for them to handle.

When you get a chance I would appreciate the name and or address.

"Leon" wrote in message On that same note, there is a place tucked into
a warehouse strip center
off
of old Katy Road that sells slides and hardware _real_ cheap. Can't
remember
the name, but my truck knows the way ... I could probably dig it up if
you're not familiar with the place. That said, the Hittich slides would
probably be too high dollar for them to handle.

When you get a chance I would appreciate the name and or address.

Looks like they moved. They claim to have the same low prices, but it sounds
as if someone else is runing it now.

Woodworkers Tool & Supply
6718 Brittmore
Ph. (713) 466-9669

--
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Last update: 12/13/05

"Swingman" wrote in message
...


Looks like they moved. They claim to have the same low prices, but it
sounds
as if someone else is runing it now.

Woodworkers Tool & Supply
6718 Brittmore
Ph. (713) 466-9669


Thank you sir. That place sounds familiar but not the location.

"brianlanning" wrote:
Even undermount metal glides?

brian

I know what you are saying about metal glides in a dresser.
This piece will be very nice when I am finished, maple boxes, Rift sawn white
oak case.
I am leaning toward under mount glides, after reading all the posts.
I just like the feel of ball bearing glides.
And I will not cover up my Dovetails.
Thanks for all the input
Tim

tdevery wrote in message

I just like the feel of ball bearing glides.
And I will not cover up my Dovetails.

Then you will love Hittich Quadro undermounts ... try to find a dealer in
your area and do some hands-on.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

"tom" wrote:
David wrote: I agree with Swingman on this one. Build the dresser and
then fit the
drawers to the cabinet. Much easier to tweak a drawer to fit and
opening
than to tweak an opening to fit an existing drawer.


(that's why I wished the OP luck.) Tom

The reason I built the draws first, is because i had some free maple and time
in the shop.
I did not make the face for the drawers yet.
I know it would be tough to get it to fit the frame.
I just made the boxes

Tim tdev wrote: The reason I built the draws first, is because i had
some free maple and time
in the shop.
I did not make the face for the drawers yet.
I know it would be tough to get it to fit the frame.
I just made the boxes

Well, not insurmountable, I'm
sure. You can make the drawer fronts with the ability to fine tune
their placement, drilling larger holes in the boxes, and using
washer-type-headed fasteners. You can shim to the required clearance
for the slides, too. All this could cause the drawers to be
"slot-specific" though, with each one fitted for it's specific cavity
only. At least that's one way, I think. Tom

"tom" wrote:
Tim tdev wrote: The reason I built the draws first, is because i had
some free maple and time
in the shop.
I did not make the face for the drawers yet.
I know it would be tough to get it to fit the frame.
I just made the boxes

Well, not insurmountable, I'm
sure. You can make the drawer fronts with the ability to fine tune
their placement, drilling larger holes in the boxes, and using
washer-type-headed fasteners. You can shim to the required clearance
for the slides, too. All this could cause the drawers to be
"slot-specific" though, with each one fitted for it's specific cavity
only. At least that's one way, I think. Tom

I do not see the difficulty of mounting the drawer face after the frame is made.
Maybe I am missing something important here.
After the frames are made. I will make up the drawer face to fit flush into the
frame.
Then use the pull hardware holes to attach the face to the box, open the drawer
and attach it properly.
The boxes are within 1/64" of each other and square.
Yes the drawers proubly would be slot specific, I am shooting for 1/32" gap on
all sides.
Wishfull thinking on my part, but I will try for that.

Tim