Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but
toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more). Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing. Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer? Thanks in advance for any suggestion. Jay Chan |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive
to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit of time and testing on some scrap lumber. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive
to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit of time and testing on some scrap lumber. This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is Senco that is supposed to be good. Jay Chan |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
|
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive
to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit of time and testing on some scrap lumber. This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is Senco that is supposed to be good. On the Senco I used to have, the adjustment is done by changing the length of the ram. Assuming you have enough pressure, that's all that's left. It's a very simple mechanism. OK. I will try my Senco nailer one more time. But I am not hopeful. I cannot rule out the possibility that I might have read the instruction wrong. When I just bought the nailer, I was quite confused by the instruction manual when I tried to load nails into the nailer. I would not be surprised that I might have misunderstood the instruction on adjusting depth-of-drive. On the other hand, the mechanism in adjusting the depth-of-drive in that nailer is seemingly quite simple: just turning a hand screw. How would I get this wrong anyway? I don't know. I am leaning toward the belief that the safety mechanism may have keep the nailer head too far from the surface of the wood and may prevent the nailer from countersinking the nail. That is the reason why I want to know if another nailer may help. Jay Chan |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
|
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
I have to increase PSI 10-15lbs to toe nail with my Porter Cable
framer. I agree with the consensus that the Senco should be able to be tweaked into proper performance. Good Luck! |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
(I wrote, but you deleted the attribution for, )
Am I missing something? I thought I have put the original quote on the message. On the Senco I used to have, the adjustment is done by changing the length of the ram. Assuming you have enough pressure, that's all that's left. It's a very simple mechanism. OK. I will try my Senco nailer one more time. But I am not hopeful. You have the owners manual, right? If not, it's on Senco's website in PDF format. Yes, I have the owner manual. But it is a one manual for multiple models kind of thing, and it is not clear. I am leaning toward the belief that the safety mechanism may have keep the nailer head too far from the surface of the wood and may prevent the nailer from countersinking the nail. That is the reason why I want to know if another nailer may help. See what Senco's website has to say before you spend more money. Or, call their support folks. It's a quality product, they'll take care of you and help you if you can be helped. This is a good idea. I should contact their tech support to see if they can help me with this. Thanks. Jay Chan |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
If it is not the adjustment of your Senco. Just buy one of those
Bostich staple/nail guns. Basically a more expensive staple gun. Their at Lowes and Home Depot. Just be warned if you go to Home Depot and hear someone over a bull horn say "PUT DOWN THE PENCIL AND BACK AWAY" just run and don't go back. Roy |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
Exactly what type of nailer (framing, finishing or brad) are you using? I
own nearly the full line of Senco nailers and have no problems with toenailing, however it does require holding the gun FIRMLY against the board your nailing into. If the gun is not held firmly enough, often the gun will bounce when it is fired causing the nail to stick out. Also, the "angle of attack" may influence how the nail is set. 45-60 degrees or so seems to wok best with my guns. --dave wrote in message oups.com... I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more). Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing. Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer? Thanks in advance for any suggestion. Jay Chan |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
On 7 Dec 2005 09:57:40 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
quickly quoth: Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit of time and testing on some scrap lumber. This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is Senco that is supposed to be good. Possible solutions: 1) Use a shorter nail or 2) Adjust the air pressure up or 3) Clean and re-oil the thing so it works properly. or 4) All of the above. Even my $15 Harbor Fright nailer and $24 HFT stapler will sink a staple or brad head beneath the surface. ================================================== ======= The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design ================================================== ======= |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
|
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
Dave Hinz wrote:
On 7 Dec 2005 11:08:04 -0800, wrote: (I wrote, but you deleted the attribution for, ) Am I missing something? I thought I have put the original quote on the message. Yeah, but just like on this one, the "Dave Hinz wrote..." line isn't there. It just makes things easier to follow if you leave those in. Now I see. I didn't realize the significance of leaving the original message sender name in the message. Jay Chan |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
Larry Jaques wrote:
On 7 Dec 2005 09:57:40 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, quickly quoth: Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit of time and testing on some scrap lumber. This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is Senco that is supposed to be good. Possible solutions: 1) Use a shorter nail or 2) Adjust the air pressure up or 3) Clean and re-oil the thing so it works properly. or 4) All of the above. I am currently working on the assumption that the air compressor is not up to the task. The small air compression that comes with the Senco brad nailer automatically cut off at 120 PSI and cannot be adjusted upward. I am wondering if a higher PSI would make a difference. May I ask you what is the PSI of the regulator in your air compressor when you successfully toe nail using a brad nail? Even my $15 Harbor Fright nailer and $24 HFT stapler will sink a staple or brad head beneath the surface. Yes, my Senco is also able to counter sink a nail -- when it is _not_ toe-nailing. Jay Chan |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
ROYNEU wrote:
If it is not the adjustment of your Senco. Just buy one of those Bostich staple/nail guns. Basically a more expensive staple gun. Their at Lowes and Home Depot. Just be warned if you go to Home Depot and hear someone over a bull horn say "PUT DOWN THE PENCIL AND BACK AWAY" just run and don't go back. ?? What does this mean ?? Jay Chan |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air
compressor (1 hp, 1 gal). I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface. And I have adjusted the depth-of-drive to the maximum depth. I have the feeling that the air compressor may not be up to the task. It automatically cuts off at 120 PSI and there is nothing I can do to adjust it upward. What's the PSI that your air compressor is running at when you toe-nail a short brad nail into soft wood like pine or dense wood? Thanks for any follow-up info in advance. Jay Chan Dave Jackson wrote: Exactly what type of nailer (framing, finishing or brad) are you using? I own nearly the full line of Senco nailers and have no problems with toenailing, however it does require holding the gun FIRMLY against the board your nailing into. If the gun is not held firmly enough, often the gun will bounce when it is fired causing the nail to stick out. Also, the "angle of attack" may influence how the nail is set. 45-60 degrees or so seems to wok best with my guns. --dave wrote in message oups.com... I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more). Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing. Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer? Thanks in advance for any suggestion. Jay Chan |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
I'm not sure of the exact pressure that they recommend but I doubt if they
recommend running it at that high of pressure. 85 to 100 psi would be more normal. Before turning it up that high, read the manual. Sever damage can result at to high a pressure. wrote in message ups.com... It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air compressor (1 hp, 1 gal). I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface. And I have adjusted the depth-of-drive to the maximum depth. I have the feeling that the air compressor may not be up to the task. It automatically cuts off at 120 PSI and there is nothing I can do to adjust it upward. What's the PSI that your air compressor is running at when you toe-nail a short brad nail into soft wood like pine or dense wood? Thanks for any follow-up info in advance. Jay Chan Dave Jackson wrote: Exactly what type of nailer (framing, finishing or brad) are you using? I own nearly the full line of Senco nailers and have no problems with toenailing, however it does require holding the gun FIRMLY against the board your nailing into. If the gun is not held firmly enough, often the gun will bounce when it is fired causing the nail to stick out. Also, the "angle of attack" may influence how the nail is set. 45-60 degrees or so seems to wok best with my guns. --dave wrote in message oups.com... I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more). Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing. Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer? Thanks in advance for any suggestion. Jay Chan |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
It's poking fun at Home Depot for the way they handle theft. Maybe you
didn't hear about the guy who put a pencil in his pocket by mistake. Was run in for stealing, etc. There was an extensive thread here about it, too. Roy |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
120 PSI is too much for a brad gun. I generally use around 100-110 PSI
for toe nailing studs with a framer gun. With my Bostich 16 ga I usually have the problem of having the nail go too deep at around 90 PSI in softwoods/ply/mdf. Harder wood WILL add significant resistance though. Last thoughts a 1. Contact Senco/return gun if under warranty. Might have bum gun. 2. You may have better success with a 16 ga gun. I think the 18 ga guns are great for intricate stuff, but my 16 ga is the workhorse. My $.02 Report back with yer results! |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
wrote in message
oups.com... I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more). Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing. Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer? Thanks in advance for any suggestion. Have you tried a hammer? |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
On 7 Dec 2005 19:47:48 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
quickly quoth: I am currently working on the assumption that the air compressor is not up to the task. The small air compression that comes with the Senco brad nailer automatically cut off at 120 PSI and cannot be adjusted upward. I am wondering if a higher PSI would make a difference. May I ask you what is the PSI of the regulator in your air compressor when you successfully toe nail using a brad nail? I don't toenail, I screw SPF framing members together when possible. g Most guns want 90psi max, too, so I doubt it's your pressure. Check your volume to the gun, though. Is it worse with rapid-fire? That would indicate a feed volume problem. Have you rebuilt the Senco yet? Pulling it down and cleaning it can make a big difference in an air tool. Sometimes pieces of debris (specifically teflon tape) get in the inlet and ruin performance. (Gummed vanes in rotary tools cause the same performance hit.) Even my $15 Harbor Fright nailer and $24 HFT stapler will sink a staple or brad head beneath the surface. Yes, my Senco is also able to counter sink a nail -- when it is _not_ toe-nailing. Could it be your method? Watch your hand while you hit the trigger for a toenailing shot. If it moves, try holding it perfectly still. This is especially critical with longer nails. What length are you shooting? It's possible that the gun you're using isn't up to the task for that length nail and the type of wood you're using. ================================================== ======= The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design ================================================== ======= |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
On 7 Dec 2005 20:01:09 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
quickly quoth: It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air compressor (1 hp, 1 gal). I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface. Jay, if you simply must use toenailing, try a shorter brad and a few more brads per project. Also think about switching to pocket screws instead, if your project wood thickness could support it. If you're concerned with the compressor, add a 5-gallon storage tank near the nailer. Did you buy the PC0947 kit? That noisy little bastid of a 1hp compressor should easily handle a nailer at full speed. One last question: Have you tried any other brands of nails? Perhaps one with a sharper tip would work better. If you have a belt sander, you can see if a sharper tip on a strip of existing nails helps. I use one to pare down my 1-1/4" brads for my 1-3/16" gun. (Newbie mistake, last minute purchase; luckily only a 1k box. big sigh ================================================== ======= The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design ================================================== ======= |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
ROYNEU wrote:
It's poking fun at Home Depot for the way they handle theft. Maybe you didn't hear about the guy who put a pencil in his pocket by mistake. Was run in for stealing, etc. There was an extensive thread here about it, too. Honestly, I have never heard anything like that while I am in Home Depot, and I visit Home Depot very frequent -- and not always in the Tools Department Jay Chan |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
Thanks for everyone who has replied.
Seem like the small air compressor is not the one that causes me trouble when I try to toe-nail because 120 PSI should be enough. I don't remember what size nails that I used. I believe it is one size above the shortest one. I will check it out when I get back home, and I will try toe-nailing with the shortest nails; unfortunately, I have a feeling that this is not practical because the shortest nails will not have enough holding power to hold the horizontal and vertical pieces together. I probably want to focus back on the nailer itself, and I will check if the telfon tape is blocking the air flow or not. The nailer is very clean because I have not had enough chance to use it a lot. Therefore, I doubt that there will be something blocking the air flow. Let me ask everyone who has Senco FinishPro-18 a question: Let's say you put 1.25" 18-gauge nails in the nailer, and adjust the depth-of-drive to as deep as possible. And then you shoot one nail onto a piece of softwood (pine), such as a 2x4. How deep is the nail below the surface of the wood? When I tried this last night, the nail is something like 1/16" below the surface. I want to hear how other people experience are. Thanks. Jay Chan |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
No luck with using the shortest nails. I tried toe-nailing using 1"
nails on a 2x4. The result was exactly the same as when I use 1.25" nails, meaning that the nail head sticks out by 1/16". By the way, the nails are Senco nails. I suppose their nails must work well with their own nailers. Nailing the same 1" nails straight on a piece of wood can counter-sink the nail down to 1/8". Seem like there is something wrong with shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to penetrate into the wood completely. Seem like the suggestion of using pocket screws is becoming more and more like a much better idea than trying to toe nail. Or I need to make some 90-degree brace-angles and use it with clamps to align two pieces of woods together. Anyway, the idea of toe nailing seems to be fading away fast -- at least for me. Jay Chan wrote: Thanks for everyone who has replied. Seem like the small air compressor is not the one that causes me trouble when I try to toe-nail because 120 PSI should be enough. I don't remember what size nails that I used. I believe it is one size above the shortest one. I will check it out when I get back home, and I will try toe-nailing with the shortest nails; unfortunately, I have a feeling that this is not practical because the shortest nails will not have enough holding power to hold the horizontal and vertical pieces together. I probably want to focus back on the nailer itself, and I will check if the telfon tape is blocking the air flow or not. The nailer is very clean because I have not had enough chance to use it a lot. Therefore, I doubt that there will be something blocking the air flow. Let me ask everyone who has Senco FinishPro-18 a question: Let's say you put 1.25" 18-gauge nails in the nailer, and adjust the depth-of-drive to as deep as possible. And then you shoot one nail onto a piece of softwood (pine), such as a 2x4. How deep is the nail below the surface of the wood? When I tried this last night, the nail is something like 1/16" below the surface. I want to hear how other people experience are. Thanks. Jay Chan |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
|
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
wrote in message
Seem like there is something wrong with shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to penetrate into the wood completely. Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the angle of the head of the nail gun when toenailing. IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep it from penetrating to the desired depth. IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is more or less luck of the draw. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 11/06/05 |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
wrote in message ups.com... Seem like there is something wrong with shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to penetrate into the wood completely. The problem is that the nose piece of the gun isn't held against the wood when nailing at an angle. It is always a little ways away. I have never had much luck with it. If you keep the angle very shallow so the gun is as perpendicular to the wood as posible, it may work. If there is a rubber bumper on the nose of the gun, remove it. That will allow you to get closer. Seem like the suggestion of using pocket screws is becoming more and more like a much better idea than trying to toe nail. Or I need to make some 90-degree brace-angles and use it with clamps to align two pieces of woods together. Anyway, the idea of toe nailing seems to be fading away fast -- at least for me. Jay Chan wrote: Thanks for everyone who has replied. Seem like the small air compressor is not the one that causes me trouble when I try to toe-nail because 120 PSI should be enough. I don't remember what size nails that I used. I believe it is one size above the shortest one. I will check it out when I get back home, and I will try toe-nailing with the shortest nails; unfortunately, I have a feeling that this is not practical because the shortest nails will not have enough holding power to hold the horizontal and vertical pieces together. I probably want to focus back on the nailer itself, and I will check if the telfon tape is blocking the air flow or not. The nailer is very clean because I have not had enough chance to use it a lot. Therefore, I doubt that there will be something blocking the air flow. Let me ask everyone who has Senco FinishPro-18 a question: Let's say you put 1.25" 18-gauge nails in the nailer, and adjust the depth-of-drive to as deep as possible. And then you shoot one nail onto a piece of softwood (pine), such as a 2x4. How deep is the nail below the surface of the wood? When I tried this last night, the nail is something like 1/16" below the surface. I want to hear how other people experience are. Thanks. Jay Chan |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
gadgetman wrote:
wrote: It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air compressor (1 hp, 1 gal). I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface. And I have adjusted the depth-of-drive to the maximum depth. I have the feeling that the air compressor may not be up to the task. It automatically cuts off at 120 PSI and there is nothing I can do to adjust it upward. What's the PSI that your air compressor is running at when you toe-nail a short brad nail into soft wood like pine or dense wood? Thanks for any follow-up info in advance. Jay Chan I was recently nailing quarter round at an angle into subflooring below. The wood was 3/4 birch which was a hard wood, using campbell hausfield 2 inch 18 ga nailer and a harbor freight 2 1/2" 16 ga finish nailer, using a tankless craftsman compressor at 100 psi and had no trouble at all with nailing it with proper countersink. Sounds like something is wrong with your setup. Could you borrow a compressor or go back to the store from which you bought it and ask them. I often have trouble with too much depth not too little. MBR But nailing a quarter round is different from toe-nailing. Yes, I have nailed quarter round before in a finishing-a-basement project; I know how this is being done. When I nail a quarter round, I always can maintain the contact between the nailer head and the wood surface. But this is not so with toe-nailing. When I toe-nailing, the angle of toe-nailing and the nailer head assembly prevent me from having a good contact. There is always a gap. And I believe this is the problem. Jay Chan |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
Swingman wrote:
wrote in message Seem like there is something wrong with shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to penetrate into the wood completely. Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the angle of the head of the nail gun when toenailing. IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep it from penetrating to the desired depth. IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is more or less luck of the draw. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 11/06/05 I think you are right. The nailer head cannot maintain a good contact with the wood surface when I use the brad nailer for toe-nailing. And this probably creates the problem. If brad nailers are not appropriate for toe-nailing, sound like I should try my finish-nailer for toe-nailing to see if it works better. I didn't think of using finish-nailer for toe-nailing because finish nails may be too long for toe-nailing. I may try the shortest finish nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws. Jay Chan |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
writes:
[...] nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws. If the time and effort of doing pocket screws is acceptable you cpould also consider an old-style nailer, AKA hammer. -- Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869 Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23 |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
The finish nailer is unlikely to be any different.
wrote in message oups.com... Swingman wrote: wrote in message Seem like there is something wrong with shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to penetrate into the wood completely. Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the angle of the head of the nail gun when toenailing. IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep it from penetrating to the desired depth. IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is more or less luck of the draw. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 11/06/05 I think you are right. The nailer head cannot maintain a good contact with the wood surface when I use the brad nailer for toe-nailing. And this probably creates the problem. If brad nailers are not appropriate for toe-nailing, sound like I should try my finish-nailer for toe-nailing to see if it works better. I didn't think of using finish-nailer for toe-nailing because finish nails may be too long for toe-nailing. I may try the shortest finish nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws. Jay Chan |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
You are quite right. I tried toe-nailing with a Senco finish nailer
(15-gauge), and the result is exactly the same as when I used a Senco brad nailer (18 gauge). This problem must have to do with the gap between the nailer head and the wood surface when I need to tilt the nailer for toe-nailing. Oh well... This means I need to find a cheap nailer that I can remove the safety assembly from the nailer head to reduce the gap, and use it just for toe-nailing. And this brings me back to my original question of this thread: Where can I get a cheap nailer that can do well with toe-nailing? Jay Chan CW wrote: The finish nailer is unlikely to be any different. wrote in message oups.com... Swingman wrote: wrote in message Seem like there is something wrong with shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to penetrate into the wood completely. Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the angle of the head of the nail gun when toenailing. IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep it from penetrating to the desired depth. IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is more or less luck of the draw. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 11/06/05 I think you are right. The nailer head cannot maintain a good contact with the wood surface when I use the brad nailer for toe-nailing. And this probably creates the problem. If brad nailers are not appropriate for toe-nailing, sound like I should try my finish-nailer for toe-nailing to see if it works better. I didn't think of using finish-nailer for toe-nailing because finish nails may be too long for toe-nailing. I may try the shortest finish nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws. Jay Chan |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing
I have ordered and received a finishing nailer from Harbor Freight. It
is called "16 GAUGE HEAVY DUTY BRAD TACKER": http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31317 And yes, it works. I can use it to toe-nail two pieces of wood together, and the nail head is slightly below the surface of the wood. The depth of the counter-sink of the nail head depending on the angle of where I position the nailer head against the wood. And it is not a piece of finely polished equipment, it is quite rough. But at least it works, and it is cheap. The only reservation is that it doesn't have anyway to adjust the depth of the counter-sink, other than by changing the angle of the nailer head against the wood as mentioned above. This works for toe nailing on two pieces of soft woods (4x4). I don't know if it will still work OK if I toe-nail two pieces of hard woods. We will see. Jay Chan wrote: You are quite right. I tried toe-nailing with a Senco finish nailer (15-gauge), and the result is exactly the same as when I used a Senco brad nailer (18 gauge). This problem must have to do with the gap between the nailer head and the wood surface when I need to tilt the nailer for toe-nailing. Oh well... This means I need to find a cheap nailer that I can remove the safety assembly from the nailer head to reduce the gap, and use it just for toe-nailing. And this brings me back to my original question of this thread: Where can I get a cheap nailer that can do well with toe-nailing? Jay Chan CW wrote: The finish nailer is unlikely to be any different. wrote in message oups.com... Swingman wrote: wrote in message Seem like there is something wrong with shooting a nail at an angle that cause the nail not be able to penetrate into the wood completely. Dollars to donuts that "something", with your particular tool, is the angle of the head of the nail gun when toenailing. IOW, not being in full contact with the surface of the material being nailed, the extra distance the brad must travel is just enough to keep it from penetrating to the desired depth. IME, most _brad_ nailers will not toe-nail consistently. Neither of mine will (Delta and HF), I would suspect that with those that will, it is more or less luck of the draw. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 11/06/05 I think you are right. The nailer head cannot maintain a good contact with the wood surface when I use the brad nailer for toe-nailing. And this probably creates the problem. If brad nailers are not appropriate for toe-nailing, sound like I should try my finish-nailer for toe-nailing to see if it works better. I didn't think of using finish-nailer for toe-nailing because finish nails may be too long for toe-nailing. I may try the shortest finish nails to see if they work better than the brad nails. If finish nailer doesn't work well either, I will have to use pocket screws. Jay Chan |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Paslode nailer for D-I-Y | UK diy | |||
How to Toe-Nail Using a Brad Nailer? | Woodworking | |||
Finishing nailer | Woodworking | |||
Cheap drills | UK diy |