The original plan calls for a solid oak top with 1 1/2" thick edges.
However, to save money I was planning on using 3/4" oak plywood and
breadboard the edges with 3/4" doubled up oak boards to stiffen the edges
up. I guess my question is, is it satisfactory to do this or should I go
ahead and bite the bullet and use the solid boards? The size of the top is
going to be 32 to 36" wide and about 60 to 65" long. I was concerned as to
how it would look when I applied the light stain and poly finish to it. I
am building Norm's computer desk. Thanks for your suggestions.

Make it as light or as heavy as you want. How about buying a
hollow core or solid core door? You could buy an oak door with
oak stiles or add your own edge banding. Commercial door are 1
3/4" residential doors are 1 3/8"

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Dave" wrote in message
news:h0v6f.456515$x96.208138@attbi_s72...
The original plan calls for a solid oak top with 1 1/2" thick
edges.
However, to save money I was planning on using 3/4" oak plywood
and
breadboard the edges with 3/4" doubled up oak boards to stiffen
the edges
up. I guess my question is, is it satisfactory to do this or
should I go
ahead and bite the bullet and use the solid boards? The size of
the top is
going to be 32 to 36" wide and about 60 to 65" long. I was
concerned as to
how it would look when I applied the light stain and poly finish
to it. I
am building Norm's computer desk. Thanks for your suggestions.

"Dave" wrote in message
news:h0v6f.456515$x96.208138@attbi_s72...
The original plan calls for a solid oak top with 1 1/2" thick edges.
However, to save money I was planning on using 3/4" oak plywood and
breadboard the edges with 3/4" doubled up oak boards to stiffen the edges
up. I guess my question is, is it satisfactory to do this or should I go
ahead and bite the bullet and use the solid boards? The size of the top is
going to be 32 to 36" wide and about 60 to 65" long. I was concerned as
to
how it would look when I applied the light stain and poly finish to it. I
am building Norm's computer desk. Thanks for your suggestions.

If you do go with plywood for the top you can simply butt the solid trim
pieces around the perimeter. The breadboard edging is not necessary as the
plywood center is going to remain quite stable compared to a center that is
made up of solid wood.
That said, almost any plywood panel used on a desk top or table is going to
be more vulnerable to dings as the plywood typically is much softer than
solid wood.

"Dave" wrote in message
news:h0v6f.456515$x96.208138@attbi_s72...
The original plan calls for a solid oak top with 1 1/2" thick edges.
However, to save money I was planning on using 3/4" oak plywood and
breadboard the edges with 3/4" doubled up oak boards to stiffen the edges
up. I guess my question is, is it satisfactory to do this or should I go
ahead and bite the bullet and use the solid boards?


IMO, the solid boards will give a much better looking desk over time. What
is more important to you, a desk that will last 100 years and stilllook
pretty or one that works but saves a few bucks? Neither one is wrong. I
don't think you have to double up the boards though, just make a nice 1 1/2"
trim for the edges.


The size of the top is
going to be 32 to 36" wide and about 60 to 65" long. I was concerned as
to
how it would look when I applied the light stain and poly finish to it. I
am building Norm's computer desk. Thanks for your suggestions.

If most of the people here were to look at the desk, we'd know it was
plywood. Most others would never know the difference. In any case, it is
many times better than vinyl covered mdf from Staples.

Leon wrote:


If you do go with plywood for the top you can simply butt the solid trim
pieces around the perimeter. The breadboard edging is not necessary as the
plywood center is going to remain quite stable compared to a center that is
made up of solid wood.

Attaching the skirt is a job made easy with a biscuit joiner. But
it is important to not put the biscuit too close to the top surface
as it can bulge a bit when the biscuit swells

You can run some supports under the plywood from front to back,
even making them a full inch deep or deeper and just taper
them to 3/4" at the front edge so they don't show. Depending on
the construction, those 'joists' can be added later if you are
unhappy with the stiffness of the top.

That said, almost any plywood panel used on a desk top or table is going to
be more vulnerable to dings as the plywood typically is much softer than
solid wood.

Maybe some of the epoxy finishes used in boat building would
harden that writing surface. Using the same finish on top
and bottom iwll minimize the tendency to cup or warp.

--

FF

wrote in message
oups.com...

Leon wrote:

Attaching the skirt is a job made easy with a biscuit joiner. But
it is important to not put the biscuit too close to the top surface
as it can bulge a bit when the biscuit swells

I always try to center the biscuit but with that in mind, I have never
never never ever seen a biscuit swell problem. Let the glue cure before
sanding and you should not have any problems at all. The biscuit should not
stay swolen.

Plywood usually looks like plywood. But it is much cheaper and more stable.
It is a judgement call; your judgement.

"Dave" wrote in message

However, to save money I was planning on using 3/4" oak plywood

Thanks for your suggestions.

Rift sawn oak plywood, a bit more expensive, but will look more like a glued
up panel.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/16/05

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 19:15:42 GMT, "Toller" wrote:

Plywood usually looks like plywood.

Not if you buy the right stuff. G

Rotary cut ply looks like plywood. Rift, quartersawn, etc... Look
like solid wood.

I said "usually" because there is better plywood made, but just try to find
it.

All you have to do is look.

"Toller" wrote in message
...

I said "usually" because there is better plywood made, but just try to
find
it.