I have never built a chair, and before I "fix" one of my chairs, I
want to make sure there is not a good reason for how it is built.

The chair in question has turned legs that are splayed. The ends of
the legs are cut perpendicular to the length of the leg, I presume
because of the cost to cut so that the end sits flat on the floor.
Pressed-in feet also contact the floor only on an edge, increasing the
chance of marring the floor.

Am I missing a reason why I should not use dividers to mark a cut line
a uniform ~3/8" above the floor, then use a saw and block plane to cut
up to that line? Adding a felt or plastic pad will make up the lost
height.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

In article ,
alexy wrote:

Am I missing a reason why I should not use dividers to mark a cut line
a uniform ~3/8" above the floor, then use a saw and block plane to cut
up to that line? Adding a felt or plastic pad will make up the lost
height.

None that I can see - sounds perfectly reasonable and also the way I'd
expect to make and see chair legs contact the floor. I doubt you'll
really feel any difference by removing the 3/8" that this will require.

One suggestion. Trim 3 of the legs and s-n-e-a-k-u-p on the last until
it sits with no rocking.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long

"alexy" wrote in message
...
I have never built a chair, and before I "fix" one of my chairs, I
want to make sure there is not a good reason for how it is built.

The chair in question has turned legs that are splayed. The ends of
the legs are cut perpendicular to the length of the leg, I presume
because of the cost to cut so that the end sits flat on the floor.
Pressed-in feet also contact the floor only on an edge, increasing the
chance of marring the floor.

Am I missing a reason why I should not use dividers to mark a cut line
a uniform ~3/8" above the floor, then use a saw and block plane to cut
up to that line? Adding a felt or plastic pad will make up the lost
height.


You're probably ok with that approach Alex, as long as there's no real
structural problems that are being represented by this splay. Obviously
there is a problem, but it's impossible to guess how bad that problem is
without seeing it. Have you looked at the chair to see if you can address
the underlying problem before taking the approach you're considering?
--

-Mike-

On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 13:47:36 -0500, alexy wrote:

Am I missing a reason why I should not use dividers to mark a cut line
a uniform ~3/8" above the floor, then use a saw and block plane to cut
up to that line? Adding a felt or plastic pad will make up the lost
height.

As you wish, but I'd mark the legs using a flat piece of wood to
suppor either pencil or small nail to scribe the line. Have the chair
on a flat surface and run the wood, with scribe attached around the
leg. The three legs first is an excellent suggestion also.

"Mike Marlow" wrote:


"alexy" wrote in message
.. .
I have never built a chair, and before I "fix" one of my chairs, I
want to make sure there is not a good reason for how it is built.

The chair in question has turned legs that are splayed. The ends of
the legs are cut perpendicular to the length of the leg, I presume
because of the cost to cut so that the end sits flat on the floor.
Pressed-in feet also contact the floor only on an edge, increasing the
chance of marring the floor.

Am I missing a reason why I should not use dividers to mark a cut line
a uniform ~3/8" above the floor, then use a saw and block plane to cut
up to that line? Adding a felt or plastic pad will make up the lost
height.


You're probably ok with that approach Alex, as long as there's no real
structural problems that are being represented by this splay.
No. Sorry if I was unclear on that. The splay I referred to is just
the design of the chair. Everything is tight, and I'm pretty sure the
holes in the bottom of the seat have not gotten closer together or the
stretchers gotten longer! g

--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

Australopithecus scobis wrote:

On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 13:47:36 -0500, alexy wrote:

Am I missing a reason why I should not use dividers to mark a cut line
a uniform ~3/8" above the floor, then use a saw and block plane to cut

Book on jigs and such had a picture of a block of wood with a scribe at
the right height. Make one in two minutes. Easier to keep square than
dividers.

Thanks. After typing "dividers", I had decided just to use a bit of
wood the right thickness, with a plane iron laid flat on it to use as
a marking knife. But a brad in a block of wood, with the head
sharpened to a scribe point, may work nicely. Thanks for the
suggestion.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"Australopithecus scobis" wrote in message
news : On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 13:47:36 -0500, alexy wrote:
:
: Am I missing a reason why I should not use dividers to mark a cut line
: a uniform ~3/8" above the floor, then use a saw and block plane to cut
:
: Book on jigs and such had a picture of a block of wood with a scribe at
: the right height. Make one in two minutes. Easier to keep square than
: dividers.

On my web site - Marking Out Notes - Marking Gauge Tips - foot of the page -
is a drawing of a Patternmaker's Mouse that is worth making when you have a
moment or two to spare.

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email: username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net