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#1
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In my continueing project of removing the fireplace, I have another
construction question. In the middle of the wall, horizontally, about 4ft. high is a large cross beam. Ideally, I would remove this for plan 'A'. I cannot tell if this is a load bearing header, or if it was put there to be support for the very heavy mantel that was on the wall above the fireplace. If I remove this beam,or just cut it flush with the opening, will the second floor come crashing down? The void that it goes across if 50 inches, is this too long a gap to not have support for an exterior wall? Its not much wider than for a window. Are there any alternatives to getting around this obstruction? Heres some pictures: http://home.earthlink.net/~peverhear...t/DSC00011.JPG http://home.earthlink.net/~peverhear...t/DSC00015.JPG Thank you for your advice. |
#3
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![]() "P.E." wrote in message m... In my continueing project of removing the fireplace, I have another construction question. In the middle of the wall, horizontally, about 4ft. high is a large cross beam. Ideally, I would remove this My advice is for you to get someone that knows construction code in your area to help you with design before you proceed any further. You are going to put yourself in a position where the building inspectors will either condemn your house, or make you spend thousands of dollars you didn't intend to, correcting your mistakes. Tom J |
#4
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If I can raise this header higher off the floor, My questions would
be: 1. Do you build the replacement header first, install it, then cut away the original,in that order? 2. Cut the original out first, install the higher header next, and move on. How long do you have before the floor above collapses in on you if you do this ;-) 3. If I raise the header all the way up to the floor plate above, with no space, then what is the difference in removing it altogether? Since that plate is supported on both ends. This span is about 50 inches long. The biggest question is which way the joists run inthe ceiling above, and whether they terminate on top of this wall. You need to support the ceiling above while you take out the beam the posts supporting it, and the studs above it, then put in taller posts, and put the beam back, high enough to be clear of whatever you're planning. That would be far easier to accomplish if you were openning the ceiling up, too. Then you could just prop up beams on either side of the wall. |
#5
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![]() "P.E." wrote in message m... 3. If I raise the header all the way up to the floor plate above, with no space, then what is the difference in removing it altogether? Since that plate is supported on both ends. This span is about 50 inches long. By chance did you happen to notice that the studs through your house are 16 inches on center? And now you have to ask again if it's OK to have a 50 inch gap in the studs without a header, and under a second story no less. As I stated in another post, you need to get someone in that has some idea about building codes before you either wreck the house or get it condemned by the building inspectors. Tom J |
#6
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(P.E.) wrote in message om...
In my continueing project of removing the fireplace, I have another construction question. In the middle of the wall, horizontally, about 4ft. high is a large cross beam. Ideally, I would remove this for plan 'A'. I cannot tell if this is a load bearing header, or if it was put there to be support for the very heavy mantel that was on the wall above the fireplace. If I remove this beam,or just cut it flush with the opening, will the second floor come crashing down? The void that it goes across if 50 inches, is this too long a gap to not have support for an exterior wall? Its not much wider than for a window. Are there any alternatives to getting around this obstruction? Heres some pictures: http://home.earthlink.net/~peverhear...t/DSC00011.JPG http://home.earthlink.net/~peverhear...t/DSC00015.JPG Thank you for your advice. Check at the ceiling leve and tell us what you find there. I't possible that there is a double 2 by in line with the wall on either side of the shaft you are reworking. It is important to know whether or not the floor joists run parallel or perpendicular to the wall with the window shown in your photo. Tom Baker |
#7
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Thanks for everyone's advice, I did listen and installed a new header
at the top of the ceiling. Not a huge deal, nothing a small sledge hammer couldnt overcome! ;-) Check the site for updates, I just finished sealing off the top of the chimney using some galvanized sheet metal to cap it off. Now I can get to the fun stuff of actually building something that people can see... Heres some pictures: http://home.earthlink.net/~peverheart/fireplace.html |
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