Ok, at our local HS, we have an open woodshop
class - tho no instruction is ever given unless
asked for.

I need to rip some boards down to 2" and others
to 3". Each set of boards will vary in length
from 24 - 60" inches.

The school shop has an old Delta TS. Last
week and and other student checked the
splitter. The thing was NOT centered on
the blade and was leaning intowards the
fence. We somehow got it aligned by working
it up and down. But I still didn't trust
it that night.

I was wondering if there was a good way
I could safely rip my boards on this saw
if the splitter is still "out of whack".

We do have some hold downs and featherboards.
I could see fashioning a hold down that would
keep the boards down on the table. Then pushing
(with push sticks) the stock thru the cut.

Also, I could also see just ripping on the
bandsaw as well.

Anyother good ideas? I searched my books
and without a doubt a splitter is the way
to go and would be if the machine is mine but
I'm looking for an equally safe alternative.

MJ Wallace

wrote:

Ok, at our local HS, we have an open woodshop
class - tho no instruction is ever given unless
asked for.

I need to rip some boards down to 2" and others
to 3". Each set of boards will vary in length
from 24 - 60" inches.

The school shop has an old Delta TS. Last
week and and other student checked the
splitter. The thing was NOT centered on
the blade and was leaning intowards the
fence. We somehow got it aligned by working
it up and down. But I still didn't trust
it that night.

I was wondering if there was a good way
I could safely rip my boards on this saw
if the splitter is still "out of whack".

We do have some hold downs and featherboards.
I could see fashioning a hold down that would
keep the boards down on the table. Then pushing
(with push sticks) the stock thru the cut.

Also, I could also see just ripping on the
bandsaw as well.

Anyother good ideas? I searched my books
and without a doubt a splitter is the way
to go and would be if the machine is mine but
I'm looking for an equally safe alternative.


Are you a student in this class I gather?

If so, I would suggest it's time to ask for some help--first to get the
machine set up properly and second to get some (hopefully) competent
instruction/demonstration on the use of the saw itself.

2" is really not that bad a width for ripping w/ a push stick and 5' or
less is short enough that it can be handled reasonably well although an
outfeed support would be useful.

I would not use the saw with the splitter until the splitter is set
properly and is not loose where it could be moved manually. I'd rather
rip w/o it than in that condition.

My splitter is adjusted to lean closer to the fence. Sometimes it is a
little tight and I have trouble getting the wood started but I NEVER have a
kick back and seldom have blade marks on the cut.
max

Ok, at our local HS, we have an open woodshop
class - tho no instruction is ever given unless
asked for.

I need to rip some boards down to 2" and others
to 3". Each set of boards will vary in length
from 24 - 60" inches.

The school shop has an old Delta TS. Last
week and and other student checked the
splitter. The thing was NOT centered on
the blade and was leaning intowards the
fence. We somehow got it aligned by working
it up and down. But I still didn't trust
it that night.

I was wondering if there was a good way
I could safely rip my boards on this saw
if the splitter is still "out of whack".

We do have some hold downs and featherboards.
I could see fashioning a hold down that would
keep the boards down on the table. Then pushing
(with push sticks) the stock thru the cut.

Also, I could also see just ripping on the
bandsaw as well.

Anyother good ideas? I searched my books
and without a doubt a splitter is the way
to go and would be if the machine is mine but
I'm looking for an equally safe alternative.

MJ Wallace

Personally, I'd use the bandsaw unless I could get reliable help in
setting up the splitter correctly.

wrote in message

The school shop has an old Delta TS. Last
week and and other student checked the
splitter. The thing was NOT centered on
the blade and was leaning intowards the
fence. We somehow got it aligned by working
it up and down. But I still didn't trust
it that night.

First remove the insert and make sure that the splitter is properly attached
to the saw and tightened down. Other than that, splitters have been known to
get bent out of alignment and it should not be a big thing to
bend/shape/push it back to where it properly belongs.Generally speaking, if
you can accomplish the cut with the splitter in place and with normal
pressure, and it is not loose, it is more than likely performing its
function.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/17/05

In 20+ years of woodwerkin, I can't remember a cut I've ever made using a
splitter. I would think no splitter would be safer than one that's not
aligned right.

"NorthIdahoWWer" wrote in message
news
In 20+ years of woodwerkin, I can't remember a cut I've ever made using a
splitter. I would think no splitter would be safer than one that's not
aligned right.

You probably have a nice square fence and flat stock. He might not.

"Toller" wrote in message
...

"NorthIdahoWWer" wrote in message
news
In 20+ years of woodwerkin, I can't remember a cut I've ever made using a
splitter. I would think no splitter would be safer than one that's not
aligned right.

You probably have a nice square fence and flat stock. He might not.

If not, he should get one or fix his.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Toller" wrote in message
...

"NorthIdahoWWer" wrote in message
news
In 20+ years of woodwerkin, I can't remember a cut I've ever made using
a
splitter. I would think no splitter would be safer than one that's not
aligned right.

You probably have a nice square fence and flat stock. He might not.

If not, he should get one or fix his.

That is kinda the point of the thread. He can't.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok, at our local HS, we have an open woodshop
class - tho no instruction is ever given unless
asked for.

I need to rip some boards down to 2" and others
to 3". Each set of boards will vary in length
from 24 - 60" inches.

The school shop has an old Delta TS. Last
week and and other student checked the
splitter. The thing was NOT centered on
the blade and was leaning intowards the
fence. We somehow got it aligned by working
it up and down. But I still didn't trust
it that night.

I was wondering if there was a good way
I could safely rip my boards on this saw
if the splitter is still "out of whack".

We do have some hold downs and featherboards.
I could see fashioning a hold down that would
keep the boards down on the table. Then pushing
(with push sticks) the stock thru the cut.


Handsome is as does. It might just be a visual flaw. Run something you
have good control of and see what happens.

Are you saying that this shop is not part of an IA program during the day?
If there's day work going on, the splitter's probably OK. If not, time to
get with the instructor and tune the machine. The folks at the wood hobby
shop on base used to love it when the co-pilot and I would bring in a mess
of wood to prepare, because we left the planer, jointer and bandsaw in
adjustment and with sharp blades.

At school the "advanced" woods class performed most standard maintenance. I
checked their work. Rather imagine that's the case where you are.

Duane Bozarth wrote:

2" is really not that bad a width for ripping w/ a push stick and 5' or
less is short enough that it can be handled reasonably well although an
outfeed support would be useful.

The task is even easier with the blade set slightly taller than the
work, and swapping the push sticks for push BLOCKS, jointer style.

Yes, the blade will chew up the bottom of the push block, but that's why
they're cheap. Blocks are even cheaper when you make them in the shop,
with mouse pads glued to the bottom.

While I prefer a splitter to be in place, I've used this method very
comfortably without a splitter many times. The thinnest I've ripped
this way was 1/8" wide (with a zero clearance insert).

Barry

"Toller" wrote in message
If not, he should get one or fix his.

That is kinda the point of the thread. He can't.

Then he should not make the cut. Period. There is no safe way if you KNOW
the fence or splitter is out of whack. You fix it, remove it, or go
elsewhere.

My tablesaw kicks back every time I use it. Should I get a face guard?
How about a chest protector?

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message

My tablesaw kicks back every time I use it. Should I get a face guard?
How about a chest protector?

The part of your body you protect first depends solely upon how tall you
are.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/17/05

Australopithecus scobis wrote:
On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 11:28:25 +0000, B a r r y wrote:

Blocks are even cheaper when you make them in the shop,
with mouse pads glued to the bottom.

I don't know table saws. This is just curiosity:
Do you apply two strips of neoprene, either side of the blade
path? Would the blade snatch at neoprene if one wide piece were used?


I start with a solid strip, which is soon slit all over the place.
There is no "snatching" or other resistance to the blade. The blade
chews at the bottom of the grip. When the grip wears off, sand or
scrape the remnants off and attach a new grip with contact cement.

See:
http://www.bburke.com/wood/jigsandtools.html

I don't even bother to add the rear "hook" any more, the rubber does a
fine job providing traction. My latest batch of shop made blocks are
about the 3"x6" on the bottom, about 1/3 the length of the one in the
photo, with similar handles. I rout a quick dado in the base, as Murphy
specifies that nails or screws would definitely find the blade.

You could also buy commercially available G-RRIPPERs, or use standard
"jointer" style push blocks rather than making them.

Using the blocks allows the operator to safely keep pressure on the work
to hold it against the fence. One block should always be against the
work. Whenever possible, I still use an MJ or shop-made splitter, which
are low enough to allow blocks to pass over. When ripping very thin
strips, I'll often stand to the side of the saw, jointer-style.

Work safe!

My tablesaw kicks back every time I use it. Should I get a face guard?
How about a chest protector?
I hope that is a joke. It should not kick back at all.
Mine did occasionally (it shot a piece of wood through the wall, onto a
couch 8 feet on the other side of the wall) until I got a microsplitter (or
whatever they call it) Haven't had a kickback since.

Once in a while the wood will pull the splitter out, but that probably means
I would have had nasty kickback without the splitter.

Andy wrote:

Personally, I'd use the bandsaw unless I could get reliable help in
setting up the splitter correctly.

Personally, I'd take the splitter off--I've never found need for one for
anything other than really sorry stuff like wet construction lumber that
moves like crazy...

I just didn't want to make that particular recommendation to what
appeared to be a shop student...

It sounds like a very poorly run shop/program, however.

Can't you just adjust the splitter?


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

"Australopithecus scobis" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 11:28:25 +0000, B a r r y wrote:

Blocks are even cheaper when you make them in the shop,
with mouse pads glued to the bottom.

I don't know table saws. This is just curiosity:
Do you apply two strips of neoprene, either side of the blade
path? Would the blade snatch at neoprene if one wide piece were used?

A tablesaw blade rips through neoprene foam pretty easily. You would hardly
notice it.

-j

On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 19:19:26 -0700, "NorthIdahoWWer"
wrote:

In 20+ years of woodwerkin, I can't remember a cut I've ever made using a
splitter. I would think no splitter would be safer than one that's not
aligned right.




after 20= years of woodworking with no splitter I went ahead and added
one to my saw. it's not on for every cut, but I have come to
appreciate it being there when it is.

On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 12:13:53 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Toller" wrote in message
If not, he should get one or fix his.

That is kinda the point of the thread. He can't.

Then he should not make the cut. Period. There is no safe way if you KNOW
the fence or splitter is out of whack. You fix it, remove it, or go
elsewhere.

My tablesaw kicks back every time I use it. Should I get a face guard?
How about a chest protector?


a cup.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 12:13:53 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Toller" wrote in message
If not, he should get one or fix his.

That is kinda the point of the thread. He can't.

Then he should not make the cut. Period. There is no safe way if you
KNOW
the fence or splitter is out of whack. You fix it, remove it, or go
elsewhere.

My tablesaw kicks back every time I use it. Should I get a face guard?
How about a chest protector?


a cup.

Maybe a modern day version of a suit of armor will do.

http://www.fist-inc.com/tg/Default.htm

"Toller" wrote in message
...
My tablesaw kicks back every time I use it. Should I get a face guard?
How about a chest protector?
I hope that is a joke. It should not kick back at all.


That is my point. The op is wondering how to best make a cut on a saw that
is way out of tune. Answer: You don't make the cut, you fix the saw first.

Bring it to the attention of the shop teacher. It should be an easy
matter to align it properly.

I would not rip timber without a splitter. Having a cut close up on the
back of the blade can make for an exciting time.