Australopithecus scobis wrote:
On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 11:28:25 +0000, B a r r y wrote:

Blocks are even cheaper when you make them in the shop,
with mouse pads glued to the bottom.

I don't know table saws. This is just curiosity:
Do you apply two strips of neoprene, either side of the blade
path? Would the blade snatch at neoprene if one wide piece were used?


I start with a solid strip, which is soon slit all over the place.
There is no "snatching" or other resistance to the blade. The blade
chews at the bottom of the grip. When the grip wears off, sand or
scrape the remnants off and attach a new grip with contact cement.

See:
http://www.bburke.com/wood/jigsandtools.html

I don't even bother to add the rear "hook" any more, the rubber does a
fine job providing traction. My latest batch of shop made blocks are
about the 3"x6" on the bottom, about 1/3 the length of the one in the
photo, with similar handles. I rout a quick dado in the base, as Murphy
specifies that nails or screws would definitely find the blade.

You could also buy commercially available G-RRIPPERs, or use standard
"jointer" style push blocks rather than making them.

Using the blocks allows the operator to safely keep pressure on the work
to hold it against the fence. One block should always be against the
work. Whenever possible, I still use an MJ or shop-made splitter, which
are low enough to allow blocks to pass over. When ripping very thin
strips, I'll often stand to the side of the saw, jointer-style.

Work safe!