I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end at an
angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the angle. I tried
using an mitre saw, but found it uncomfortable as my hand is too near the blade.
Felt a table saw would give the same problem.

Any suggestions?

: Angelo Castellano emails - statsone@sympatico dot gov
: gov to be replaced with ca

Angelo Castellano posting wrote:
I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end at an
angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the angle. I tried
using an mitre saw, but found it uncomfortable as my hand is too near the blade.
Felt a table saw would give the same problem.

Any suggestions?


Make a 20deg. cut, then to length at 90. Lather. Rinse. Repeat.

Angelo Castellano posting wrote:
I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end at an
angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the angle. I tried
using an mitre saw, but found it uncomfortable as my hand is too near the blade.
Felt a table saw would give the same problem.

Any suggestions?


Use a table saw and a sled with two (2) cleats (One on either side of
the piece) tacked to the sled at a 20 degree angle.

SAFE & FAST.

Lew

Cut the angle first, THEN cut off to length

John

On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 00:06:25 -0400, "Angelo Castellano posting"
wrote:

I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end at an
angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the angle. I tried
using an mitre saw, but found it uncomfortable as my hand is too near the blade.
Felt a table saw would give the same problem.

Any suggestions?

: Angelo Castellano emails - statsone@sympatico dot gov
: gov to be replaced with ca

Angelo Castellano posting wrote:
I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end
at an angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the
angle. I tried using an mitre saw, but found it uncomfortable as my
hand is too near the blade. Felt a table saw would give the same
problem.

Any suggestions?

Need lots?

Start with a square, thick, long piece, cut the angle on one end,
multiple rip to 3/8 x 3/8, cross cut those.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Sand it, much safer and no tearing.
You may have to fixture it but at least, if you lose it, you won't risk
amputation.
http://www.patwarner.com (Routers)

In article , Angelo
Castellano posting wrote:

I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end at an
angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the angle. I
tried
using an mitre saw, but found it uncomfortable as my hand is too near the
blade.
Felt a table saw would give the same problem.

Any suggestions?

: Angelo Castellano emails - statsone@sympatico dot gov
: gov to be replaced with ca


Hi Angelo,

I also hate cutting small pieces/moulding with a power
miter saw. The TS is a good answer unless the piece is
long and awkward to handle.

I finally gave in and bought a good manual miter saw
from Lee Valley (Nobex). I'm doing a lot of trim around
the house and a new mantel is next on the list.

The saw works great, is accurate and safe. Sure beats
little pieces flying around the shop! I still use the
power MS for bigger/longer cuts.

Lou

I have a problem with the collet of my router chuck (an Elu). After
tightening it ( not excessively) I have one hell of a game releasing the
collet from its housing. Using a piece of hardwood to hit is not enough
and much as I hate to do so, I have to resort to something metallic eg a
screwdriver. I have tried liberal lubrication with WD40 and paraffin
wax, to no avail.

There must be a locking taper on the parts, although I cannot see why
that is necessary. Maybe draw polishing the collet would make a
difference?

Any ideas?


Billhum

In article , billhum wrote:
I have a problem with the collet of my router chuck (an Elu). After
tightening it ( not excessively) I have one hell of a game releasing the
collet from its housing. Using a piece of hardwood to hit is not enough
and much as I hate to do so, I have to resort to something metallic eg a
screwdriver. I have tried liberal lubrication with WD40 and paraffin
wax, to no avail.

Many [most?] router collets loosen in two stages: loosen the collet, turn it
another half-turn or so, and it gets tighter again. Keep turning, and it will
loosen for real. Perhaps this is where you're having trouble?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Use the 'old school' clothes pins to make a sled to hold the pieces.
Glue the wooden spring-loaded clothes pin to pice of plywood. Use this
sled to hold the small pieces.

"Angelo Castellano posting" wrote in message
...
I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end at
an
angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the angle. I
tried
using an mitre saw, but found it uncomfortable as my hand is too near the
blade.
Felt a table saw would give the same problem.

Any suggestions?

If you have both a table saw and a mitre saw why not cut the wood 3/8" x
3/8" x3' and use the table saw to cut the 20 degree angle then use the mitre
saw for a straight cut = one piece made. Trim off the end of the long piece
to cut the 20 degree angle and back to the mitre saw to make the straight
cut = 2nd piece made, and repeat.

Naturally you'd run all of your "sticks" through the table saw first and
then run all the sticks through the mitre saw for the straight cross cut.

Joise

Yes, this will likely work. Few routers these days don't have this feature.
BTW, router collets are an example of self holding tapers. In other words,
they stick. They're designed to.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
Many [most?] router collets loosen in two stages: loosen the collet, turn
it
another half-turn or so, and it gets tighter again. Keep turning, and it
will
loosen for real. Perhaps this is where you're having trouble?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 22:18:20 -0400, "Jois"
wrote:


"Angelo Castellano posting" wrote in message
.. .
I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end at
an
angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the angle. I

If you have both a table saw and a mitre saw why not cut the wood 3/8" x
3/8" x3' and use the table saw to cut the 20 degree angle then use the mitre
saw for a straight cut = one piece made. Trim off the end of the long piece
to cut the 20 degree angle and back to the mitre saw to make the straight
cut = 2nd piece made, and repeat.

That had been my thought, but then I also thought that no-one in their
right mind would even think of trying to hold down such small pieces
near a saw blade. That is especially so when he says he makes the
angle cut second. So the word "troll" came to mind as well, and I
didn't reply.

"Guess who" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 22:18:20 -0400, "Jois"
wrote:


"Angelo Castellano posting" wrote in message
.. .
I need to cut small pieces of wood ( 3/8 x 3/8" square ) with one end
at
an
angle of 20 degrees.

I cut cut the wood to length, but have a tough time cutting the angle.
I

If you have both a table saw and a mitre saw why not cut the wood 3/8" x
3/8" x3' and use the table saw to cut the 20 degree angle then use the
mitre
saw for a straight cut = one piece made. Trim off the end of the long
piece
to cut the 20 degree angle and back to the mitre saw to make the straight
cut = 2nd piece made, and repeat.

That had been my thought, but then I also thought that no-one in their
right mind would even think of trying to hold down such small pieces
near a saw blade. That is especially so when he says he makes the
angle cut second. So the word "troll" came to mind as well, and I
didn't reply.


I'd be holding the long stick against the mitre fence with my left hand for
both cuts. When finished however many pieces you need you'd still be holding
a long stick - toss the sticks when they get short. I'm guessing the
shortest stick I'd still work on would be 8" or more.

Josie

Thanks for the many suggestions.

First, I should have given more details. I get the wood already cut in 3/8x3/8"
size, about 2ft long. I cut about 200 at a time so I need something that works
well.

Last time, I put a block with the same angle on the mitre saw and used a long
stick to hold it down. Didn't feel comfortable with my hands there.

I have posted an image in abrw with the actual piece. The ruler didn't come out
to show size but the fininshed piece of wood is 8" long

: Angelo Castellano emails - statsone@sympatico dot gov
: gov to be replaced with ca

Angelo Castellano posting wrote:
Thanks for the many suggestions.

First, I should have given more details. I get the wood already cut in 3/8x3/8"
size, about 2ft long. I cut about 200 at a time so I need something that works
well.


What a natural for a sled and a table saw.

See my earlier post.

BTW, want to see drawings of this job?

Take a look at Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery.

You are not reinventing the wheel.


Lew

On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 05:20:35 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote:

Angelo Castellano posting wrote:
Thanks for the many suggestions.

First, I should have given more details. I get the wood already cut in 3/8x3/8"
size, about 2ft long. I cut about 200 at a time so I need something that works
well.


What a natural for a sled and a table saw.

See my earlier post.

BTW, want to see drawings of this job?

Take a look at Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery.

You are not reinventing the wheel.


Lew


what Lew said.

gang cut them in groups of 25 or so- whatever is a convenient number
to fit on your saw table.

since this is a recurring operation, go ahead and build a purpose
designed sled. I'd make it with 2 runners (both miter slots) and a
fixed angle fence with an in-and-down clamping mechanism built in.

Thanks for your reply. I'm afraid it is not that simple. The smaller
routers I have, also by Elu, are made like that , probably because they
are used mainly by hobbyists. This is a large router and, in trying to
remove the cutter, I take the lock nut off: there is no chance of it
having a two stage thread.

Billhum