After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove
the light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the
pores that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove
them I have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I
still need to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but
the sheen isn't what I want.

solution?

Dave

What is it? Might depend on how it will be used. Try a final coat a wax.

Steve

"David" wrote in message
...
After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove the
light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the pores
that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove them I
have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I still need
to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but the sheen
isn't what I want.

solution?

Dave

The wax will leave it too glossy, Steve. I want a satin sheen, or
slightly duller.

Dave

Steve Peterson wrote:

What is it? Might depend on how it will be used. Try a final coat a wax.

Steve

"David" wrote in message
...

After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove the
light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the pores
that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove them I
have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I still need
to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but the sheen
isn't what I want.

solution?

Dave

One other idea I've had is to keep thinning the shellac until I can get
a final coat that goes on perfectly. I've only got to get about a 1/2
square foot of it (the top) perfect... I'm using around a 1 lb cut
(guessing) now.

Dave

Steve Peterson wrote:

What is it? Might depend on how it will be used. Try a final coat a wax.

Steve

"David" wrote in message
...

After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove the
light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the pores
that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove them I
have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I still need
to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but the sheen
isn't what I want.

solution?

Dave

"David" wrote in message
...
After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove
the light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the
pores that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove
them I have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I
still need to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but
the sheen isn't what I want.

solution?

Dave

After your final coat - finish with wax using 0000 steel wool as the
applicator. Then rub out to a satin sheen.

Vic

I'd also suggest wax. I have fixed this exact problem this way. I'd use
a dark wax, applied with 0000 steel wool. It is your option how much
sheen you want. The more you steel wool it the more you will knock down
the sheen. Then just buff it to the sheen you want witha cloth. Of
course a little wax goes a long way so don't use much or the surface
will keep finger prints way to easy.

Test these before trying on real work:::
Another thought is to try washing it with mineral spirits or some other
solvent that won't disolve the shellac. I'm not actually sure that MS
won't dissolve it but I'm sure there is some solvent that would work.

Another idea is to very lightly wet a cloth with alcohol and quickly
wipe/buff the piece.

Another idea is something like Murphy's oil soap.

Can you elaborate on the murphys oil? I've got some, somewhere...

I like the idea of the dark wax. Would the wax, if applied before any
buffing, seal the pores so that the white dust of the shellac can't get
embedded in the pores? I've tried the "final buffing" now about 4 times,
just moments ago I tried a super thinned coat. Still not right; too
glossy and uneven.

Any idea if HD carries a dark wax?

Dave

SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I'd also suggest wax. I have fixed this exact problem this way. I'd use
a dark wax, applied with 0000 steel wool. It is your option how much
sheen you want. The more you steel wool it the more you will knock down
the sheen. Then just buff it to the sheen you want witha cloth. Of
course a little wax goes a long way so don't use much or the surface
will keep finger prints way to easy.

Test these before trying on real work:::
Another thought is to try washing it with mineral spirits or some other
solvent that won't disolve the shellac. I'm not actually sure that MS
won't dissolve it but I'm sure there is some solvent that would work.

Another idea is to very lightly wet a cloth with alcohol and quickly
wipe/buff the piece.

Another idea is something like Murphy's oil soap.

I kept trying things until I hit the right combo: mineral oil applied
FIRST to the walnut and rubbed with either a gray and then white pad, OR
rubbed out with rottenstone. The pads are less messy. No more white
shellac residue in the pores! Yeah! Any day I can't learn something new
is a wasted day. Morale of the story for me is to NOT use water; use
oil (or wax--I tried that too-it worked fine).

Dave

David wrote:

After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove
the light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the
pores that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove
them I have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I
still need to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but
the sheen isn't what I want.

solution?

Dave

David wrote:

After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove
the light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the
pores that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove
them I have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I
still need to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but
the sheen isn't what I want.

solution?

Dave

I'd be inclined to use W/D paper or steel wool with a non-drying oil
such as mineral oil as lubricant, then clean up with mineral spirits,
turpentine, etc.

Someone else mentioned a cloth lightly dampened in alcohol. But that
will just probably return the sheen you have removed in sanding, since
the alc will redissolve a little of the shellac.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"David" wrote in message
...
After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove
the light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the
pores that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove
them I have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I
still need to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but
the sheen isn't what I want.

solution?



Here is my suggestion , sand out the shellac coat with whatever grade paper
you desire clean off with a clean rag and mineral spirits .now apply a coat
of thinned asphaltum which will darken anything left in the pores then wipe
off with a clean rag ,pulling the asphalum off the surface but leaving it in
the pores.

Shoot with a a couple of coats of good quality laquer. let dry overnight
and rub out with wool wax and 4 zeros steel wool using water as a lubricant
..

by the way if you are going to continue using shellac then try using a 3 lb
cut,a 1 lb cut is too thin....mjh

David says...

After numerous light coats of shellac on walnut, I'm unable to remove
the light residue from the pores from either: dry sanding with 1000, wet
sanding 1000, gray or white pads. The shellac leaves residue in the
pores that I can't wipe out with a wet rag or by vacuuming. To remove
them I have to recoat. The problem is the sheen isn't PERFECT, so I
still need to buff the final coat. I tried wet pumice (dark gray) but
the sheen isn't what I want.

solution?

Dave

Hmm. I only have that problem after sanding, not with steel wool, and
my current project is very porous coffeetree. You could try brushing or
padding on some pure or nearly pure alcohol. That should melt the
residue in the pores. I use naphtha to wipe off sanding dust and
sometimes a toothbrush along with it. I don't wet sand shellac. I just
use the beige colored lubricated 320 that you can get anywhere. Of
course, if you keep going long enough, you will fill the pores and your
problem will be solved.

SonomaProducts.com says...

Test these before trying on real work:::
Another thought is to try washing it with mineral spirits or some other
solvent that won't disolve the shellac. I'm not actually sure that MS
won't dissolve it but I'm sure there is some solvent that would work.

You can use mineral spirits or naphtha to wash shellac. Either works
fine, but I prefer naphtha because it evaporates so fast.

David wrote:
One other idea I've had is to keep thinning the shellac until I can
get a final coat that goes on perfectly.

French polish it...

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I tried. I can't do it properly. The oil/pad buffing worked.

Dave

dadiOH wrote:

David wrote:

One other idea I've had is to keep thinning the shellac until I can
get a final coat that goes on perfectly.


French polish it...

Glad to hear you found a "solution" (pun intended).

For reference: I use Briwax typically. It comes in several colors. I
usually have a can of neutral and a can of black on hand. The black
won't darken things much other than what gets embedded in grain pores.
I use it on unstained Red Oak and it helps pop-the grain but seems to
buff claer mostly. Not sure if HD would have it. I get it from
Woodcraft and I think the Wood Finishing Supply folks have it too.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in
ups.com:

Glad to hear you found a "solution" (pun intended).

For reference: I use Briwax typically. It comes in several colors. I
usually have a can of neutral and a can of black on hand. The black
won't darken things much other than what gets embedded in grain pores.
I use it on unstained Red Oak and it helps pop-the grain but seems to
buff claer mostly. Not sure if HD would have it. I get it from
Woodcraft and I think the Wood Finishing Supply folks have it too.


It's available in a lot of places. My local independent hardware store has
a pretty complete range.

The Liberon waxes are a little softer, and somewhat darker, for equivalent
'color names', if that counts for anything.

Patriarch