I used the Rust-Oleum epoxy sheild to do my shop, gargage and basement
floors last year. Its a latex epoxy. I bought it at Lowes, its about
$50 per gallon. One gallon is enough to cover a small one car garage
floor in good (smooth concrete) condition. I used 3 gallons to cover
two one car garage floors, because the floor was pretty rough.

http://www.rustoleum.com/brand.asp?f...nd_id=19&SBL=1

Its held up pretty well. The garage we park a car in had a pretty
pitted and stained floor, the citric acid based cleaner that comes with
the product worked really well. The paint survivied one new england
winter covered with salt and sand from the car.

Here's some pictures of my shop and garage floors.
http://www.clsid.com/nsw/shop_floor/index.html

rob

"To use an epoxy paint, do I have to use muriatic Acid to etch the
floor? What is a good epoxy garage floor paint."


I used the same Rustoleum kit found at Home Depot & Loews - comes in
gray or brown. Two years now in MN winter with sand/salt - mops up and
cleans great, no chips or peels. I had applied it to 6 month old
concrete, and put two coats on. The key to success is going to be in
the prep. I bought a short bristle broom and followed the citrus wash
directions. Some serious elbow grease went into that scrub and rinse -
the painting was the easy part.

You'll have the option of using the sand texture. Couple thoughts: It
makes mopping or cleaning more difficult. I also tried applying it per
directions - then someone said they just took small hand fulls of the
sand and sprinkled it over the paint immediately after coating, as they
rolled. The same technique as the decorative flakes basically. I
found this worked much easier and created a much nicer look without the
splotching I got when I followed the directions. Incidently -
regarding the decorative flakes. They look nice but make it a pain to
find small things when dropped. Acts like camoflauge.

I was also told by different people that the Behr stuff is not nearly
as effective as the 2-part Rustoleum kits. FYI.

How did you "grind" your garage floor? We've got the brushed concrete floor
in our garage, and I was thinking about how much easier it would be to clean
if my half of it was slightly more polished.

Clint

"rob" wrote in message
oups.com...
I used the Rust-Oleum epoxy sheild to do my shop, gargage and basement
floors last year. Its a latex epoxy. I bought it at Lowes, its about
$50 per gallon. One gallon is enough to cover a small one car garage
floor in good (smooth concrete) condition. I used 3 gallons to cover
two one car garage floors, because the floor was pretty rough.

http://www.rustoleum.com/brand.asp?f...nd_id=19&SBL=1

Its held up pretty well. The garage we park a car in had a pretty
pitted and stained floor, the citric acid based cleaner that comes with
the product worked really well. The paint survivied one new england
winter covered with salt and sand from the car.

Here's some pictures of my shop and garage floors.
http://www.clsid.com/nsw/shop_floor/index.html

rob

arnold carpenter wrote:
do I have to use muriatic Acid to etch the floor?


Yes. I didn't and a year later it's all peeling up. Apparently they
use a sealant on concrete after its poured. I wish I had spent the
extra time and money to acid etch the floor first. Now I'm going to
have to do it anyway and it'll be a bigger pain because I'm all moved
in now.

Mike

Might find some experience in alt.home.repair too.

On Fri, 29 Apr 2005 07:20:09 -0400, (arnold
carpenter) wrote:

I have previously painted my garage floor with a Latex floor paint and
it is peeling, especially where the tires ride. To use an epoxy paint,
do I have to use muriatic Acid to etch the floor? What is a good epoxy
garage floor paint.

Thanks
A. Carpenter

wrote in message
oups.com...
"To use an epoxy paint, do I have to use muriatic Acid to etch the
floor? What is a good epoxy garage floor paint."


I used the same Rustoleum kit found at Home Depot & Loews - comes in
gray or brown. Two years now in MN winter with sand/salt - mops up and
cleans great, no chips or peels. I had applied it to 6 month old
concrete, and put two coats on. The key to success is going to be in
the prep. I bought a short bristle broom and followed the citrus wash
directions. Some serious elbow grease went into that scrub and rinse -
the painting was the easy part.

You'll have the option of using the sand texture. Couple thoughts: It
makes mopping or cleaning more difficult. I also tried applying it per
directions - then someone said they just took small hand fulls of the
sand and sprinkled it over the paint immediately after coating, as they
rolled. The same technique as the decorative flakes basically. I
found this worked much easier and created a much nicer look without the
splotching I got when I followed the directions. Incidently -
regarding the decorative flakes. They look nice but make it a pain to
find small things when dropped. Acts like camoflauge.

I was also told by different people that the Behr stuff is not nearly
as effective as the 2-part Rustoleum kits. FYI.

I used the Behr stuff, in 1999, in Southern Canada. All winter it is covered
with salty drippings from the car along with fine gravel that the car tires
track in and grind into the floor. I prepped extra well, used the
recommended primer and 2 coats of the paint. It has been through 5 winters
now with only salt stains that I will wash off when I get time to work in
the garage. I may give it another coat to even up the finish colour. The
cold wet winters in this area have only left superficial marks, none of the
paint has peeled.

I used the same Behr 1 part epoxy paint and worked well no peeling yet. 1
year in basement workshop. This stands up to the table saw with mobile base
wheels. I agree the prep work is got to be done right (degrease and etch
before painting) with much serious and lengthy elbow grease. I used the
Behr degrease and etch solutions(no muriatic needed). I did 2 coats of grey
paint and am very happy with the result, for a workshop. I would think you
would want to add sand to the mix for a garage. Its slippery when wet.

here's a link
http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/p...tings&catId=16



"Eric Tonks" etonks@sunstormADD-DOT-COM wrote in message
anews.com...

wrote in message
oups.com...
"To use an epoxy paint, do I have to use muriatic Acid to etch the
floor? What is a good epoxy garage floor paint."


I used the same Rustoleum kit found at Home Depot & Loews - comes in
gray or brown. Two years now in MN winter with sand/salt - mops up and
cleans great, no chips or peels. I had applied it to 6 month old
concrete, and put two coats on. The key to success is going to be in
the prep. I bought a short bristle broom and followed the citrus wash
directions. Some serious elbow grease went into that scrub and rinse -
the painting was the easy part.

You'll have the option of using the sand texture. Couple thoughts: It
makes mopping or cleaning more difficult. I also tried applying it per
directions - then someone said they just took small hand fulls of the
sand and sprinkled it over the paint immediately after coating, as they
rolled. The same technique as the decorative flakes basically. I
found this worked much easier and created a much nicer look without the
splotching I got when I followed the directions. Incidently -
regarding the decorative flakes. They look nice but make it a pain to
find small things when dropped. Acts like camoflauge.

I was also told by different people that the Behr stuff is not nearly
as effective as the 2-part Rustoleum kits. FYI.

I used the Behr stuff, in 1999, in Southern Canada. All winter it is
covered
with salty drippings from the car along with fine gravel that the car
tires
track in and grind into the floor. I prepped extra well, used the
recommended primer and 2 coats of the paint. It has been through 5 winters
now with only salt stains that I will wash off when I get time to work in
the garage. I may give it another coat to even up the finish colour. The
cold wet winters in this area have only left superficial marks, none of
the
paint has peeled.

Same here as other posts - used the Rustoleum Epoxy Shield. I spent a lot
of extra time prepping the floor (had 6 years of use and some oil stains)..
Three years later, it is still down, has never pulled up or peeled, but it
has worn bare where the car tires are. I called Rustoleum about putting
another coat down. They said no problem, just clean the floor good. Told
me I should have put two coats on initially, which I did not do.

One caution. If you do not use the chips or a non-slip additive, the floor
is very slippery when wet. I plan to put another coat down with a non-slip
additive.

Bob

"arnold carpenter" wrote in message
...
I have previously painted my garage floor with a Latex floor paint and
it is peeling, especially where the tires ride. To use an epoxy paint,
do I have to use muriatic Acid to etch the floor? What is a good epoxy
garage floor paint.

Thanks
A. Carpenter





Stay Happy and Healthy

Mike in Idaho wrote in message
.com on Friday 29 April
2005 11:23 am:


arnold carpenter wrote:
do I have to use muriatic Acid to etch the floor?


Yes. I didn't and a year later it's all peeling up. Apparently they
use a sealant on concrete after its poured. I wish I had spent the
extra time and money to acid etch the floor first. Now I'm going to
have to do it anyway and it'll be a bigger pain because I'm all moved
in now.

Mike

Acid etching eats the lime dust. Paint hangs on to dust for dear life.
Unfortunately, the dust isn't hanging on to anything. So, it's gotta go in
order for the paint to be able to get a grip on the stronger concrete.

HTH
Bill

Subject

Unless you have access to industrial coatings and the equipment needed
to apply them in applications like food processing plants, forget it.

The stuff you find at retail stores just isn't going to cut it.

Lew

"arnold carpenter" wrote in message
...
I have previously painted my garage floor with a Latex floor paint and
it is peeling, especially where the tires ride. To use an epoxy paint,
do I have to use muriatic Acid to etch the floor? What is a good epoxy
garage floor paint.



I would use acid for sure! Phosphoric acid will do the trick to and not be
so hard on the lungs.

Your biggest problem is the latex paint. I would not put down epoxy untill
every last bit of the latex is gone!

Remember, if you try to cut coners it will come back to haunt you! Do it
right the first time and you will have tons less work in the end.
Greg

"How do you grind your garage floor?"

You go to a rental center and rent a tool called a floor scarifier or
floor grinder. It has a number of grinding stones on a rotating disk.
United Rentals carries them.

Sorry it took me so long to reply. As someone posted later, I went to
a local rental place and rented a concrete floor polisher (scarifier).
Its a thing with two 12" disks that rotate in opposite directions.
Each has polishing stones or diamond bits in it. Make sure you have
at least a 20amp circuit where you want to grind, and some of the
machines are 220v.

It was one of the dirtiest jobs I've ever done. Inches of dust
everywhere. I had to stack bricks (in a trashcan) on top of the
grinder to get it to properly grind. Darn thing weighs about 300 lbs.
Good thing I have a trailer with a low deck and a ramp.