We have a small (8 section) basketweave fence that's been around for
40+ years. I recently reworked several of the panels using as much of
the redwood as possible and using cedar when I had to replace wood.

The post that holds the large gate has rotted at the bottom (was
repaired a couple times) at the top of the last concrete pour.

My idea is to use the original redwood post but to use a pipe to
secure the post. My thought is to place a concrete filled pvc pipe
into the center of the post, perhaps 3-4 feet deep, glue (or screw)
the pipe inside the post and then set the pvc pipe into fresh concrete
(again about 2 feet down).

I'm not a woodworker and don't have a horizontal boring machine that
could bore a 2 inch hole in the center of a post 3-4 feet.

I've thought of cutting the post in half then routing out the
material, placing the pipe, then glueing the two halves together but
don't know if I'd just be introducing another failure point with that
long joint and weather seapage, etc..

Any thoughts on how a layman could tackle this, or should I try to
find someone with a boring machine? (dont know what heading that
would be in the yellow pages)

=20
"Clyde" wrote in message =
...
| We have a small (8 section) basketweave fence that's been around for
| 40+ years. I recently reworked several of the panels using as much of
| the redwood as possible and using cedar when I had to replace wood.
|=20
| The post that holds the large gate has rotted at the bottom (was
| repaired a couple times) at the top of the last concrete pour.
|=20
| My idea is to use the original redwood post but to use a pipe to
| secure the post. My thought is to place a concrete filled pvc pipe
| into the center of the post, perhaps 3-4 feet deep, glue (or screw)
| the pipe inside the post and then set the pvc pipe into fresh concrete
| (again about 2 feet down).
|=20
| I'm not a woodworker and don't have a horizontal boring machine that
| could bore a 2 inch hole in the center of a post 3-4 feet.
|=20
| I've thought of cutting the post in half then routing out the
| material, placing the pipe, then glueing the two halves together but
| don't know if I'd just be introducing another failure point with that
| long joint and weather seapage, etc..
|=20
| Any thoughts on how a layman could tackle this, or should I try to
| find someone with a boring machine? (dont know what heading that
| would be in the yellow pages)
|=20

Nahmie, heaven forbid, did something like this when he built a flagpole =
from scratch. Your concept of cutting the post will work if you use =
epoxy resin (waterproof glue) same as for boat building. Don't forget =
the biscuits.

Concerning weather seepage, I built a pair of octagonal cedar lamp poles =
(8' high) out of left over 2X4's from my deck some 10 years ago. I =
covered the top and bottom with clear silicone and popped on the lamps. =
To date there has been no evidence of weather damage.

--=20

PDQ
--

PDQ wrote:
=20
"Clyde" wrote in message news:d0rc61tdrnsog=
...
| We have a small (8 section) basketweave fence that's been around for
| 40+ years. I recently reworked several of the panels using as much o=
f
| the redwood as possible and using cedar when I had to replace wood.
|=20
| The post that holds the large gate has rotted at the bottom (was
| repaired a couple times) at the top of the last concrete pour.
|=20
| My idea is to use the original redwood post but to use a pipe to
| secure the post. My thought is to place a concrete filled pvc pipe
| into the center of the post, perhaps 3-4 feet deep, glue (or screw)
| the pipe inside the post and then set the pvc pipe into fresh concret=
e
| (again about 2 feet down).
|=20
| I'm not a woodworker and don't have a horizontal boring machine that
| could bore a 2 inch hole in the center of a post 3-4 feet.
|=20
| I've thought of cutting the post in half then routing out the
| material, placing the pipe, then glueing the two halves together but
| don't know if I'd just be introducing another failure point with that=

| long joint and weather seapage, etc..
|=20
| Any thoughts on how a layman could tackle this, or should I try to
| find someone with a boring machine? (dont know what heading that
| would be in the yellow pages)
|=20
=20
Nahmie, heaven forbid, did something like this when he built a flagpole=
from scratch. Your concept of cutting the post will work if you use epo=
xy resin (waterproof glue) same as for boat building. Don't forget the b=
iscuits.
=20
Concerning weather seepage, I built a pair of octagonal cedar lamp pole=
s (8' high) out of left over 2X4's from my deck some 10 years ago. I cov=
ered the top and bottom with clear silicone and popped on the lamps. To =
date there has been no evidence of weather damage.
=20


When faced with problems like this I head down to the local building=20
supply. They are usually familiar with local conditions, building regs=20
and stuff. I presume there are no side issues like pools etc. that call=20
for oddball measures etc.

Sounds to me like you know a lot of the tricks tho.

I don't know your local weather conditions etc. but if it lasted 40=20
years it must be pretty good conditions - not much rain and no termites. =
:-
Lucky stiff! :-)




--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

In article ,
Clyde wrote:

I would suggest that you do it the right way. Completely remove the old
post and install a new post. I believe that you will be happier in the
long run and it will probably be less work. I've replaced numerous
redwood posts on a basketweave fence. If the old post is set in
concrete it can be a real pain to dig up the concrete but it is still
only an extra hour. However it sounds like you plan to remove the old
base regardless. The new post needs to be strong if it supports the
gate so you need a good concrete base.

Concrete filled PVC will not have much sideways strength. The concrete
will easily fracture. You might fill the pipe with concrete and rebar
but I wouldn't bet on success.

If you are going to all this effort do something where you are confident
of success.

Dick

We have a small (8 section) basketweave fence that's been around for
40+ years. I recently reworked several of the panels using as much of
the redwood as possible and using cedar when I had to replace wood.

The post that holds the large gate has rotted at the bottom (was
repaired a couple times) at the top of the last concrete pour.

My idea is to use the original redwood post but to use a pipe to
secure the post. My thought is to place a concrete filled pvc pipe
into the center of the post, perhaps 3-4 feet deep, glue (or screw)
the pipe inside the post and then set the pvc pipe into fresh concrete
(again about 2 feet down).

I'm not a woodworker and don't have a horizontal boring machine that
could bore a 2 inch hole in the center of a post 3-4 feet.

I've thought of cutting the post in half then routing out the
material, placing the pipe, then glueing the two halves together but
don't know if I'd just be introducing another failure point with that
long joint and weather seapage, etc..

Any thoughts on how a layman could tackle this, or should I try to
find someone with a boring machine? (dont know what heading that
would be in the yellow pages)

Richard Cline wrote:

In article ,
Clyde wrote:

I would suggest that you do it the right way. Completely remove the old
post and install a new post. I believe that you will be happier in the
long run and it will probably be less work. I've replaced numerous
redwood posts on a basketweave fence. If the old post is set in
concrete it can be a real pain to dig up the concrete but it is still
only an extra hour. However it sounds like you plan to remove the old
base regardless. The new post needs to be strong if it supports the
gate so you need a good concrete base.

Concrete filled PVC will not have much sideways strength. The concrete
will easily fracture. You might fill the pipe with concrete and rebar
but I wouldn't bet on success.

If you are going to all this effort do something where you are confident
of success.

Personally if I were going to do this I'd also use Ipe or if you want the
red color Massaranduba for the replacement post. Either is much harder and
stronger than redwood and more decay resistant as well. If redwood lasted
40 years in the application then ipe should last longer than anybody now
living.

Dick

We have a small (8 section) basketweave fence that's been around for
40+ years. I recently reworked several of the panels using as much of
the redwood as possible and using cedar when I had to replace wood.

The post that holds the large gate has rotted at the bottom (was
repaired a couple times) at the top of the last concrete pour.

My idea is to use the original redwood post but to use a pipe to
secure the post. My thought is to place a concrete filled pvc pipe
into the center of the post, perhaps 3-4 feet deep, glue (or screw)
the pipe inside the post and then set the pvc pipe into fresh concrete
(again about 2 feet down).

I'm not a woodworker and don't have a horizontal boring machine that
could bore a 2 inch hole in the center of a post 3-4 feet.

I've thought of cutting the post in half then routing out the
material, placing the pipe, then glueing the two halves together but
don't know if I'd just be introducing another failure point with that
long joint and weather seapage, etc..

Any thoughts on how a layman could tackle this, or should I try to
find someone with a boring machine? (dont know what heading that
would be in the yellow pages)


--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

When I was looking at getting replacement panels for the fence, I
couldn't find anyone online that carried aimilar basketweave.
Sections that were the same size but less "weave" were over $1000
each.

When I tried finding replacement redwood slats or rails I couldn't
find those either. I couldn't even find a supplier of 2x2 redwood for
the rails. None of my local suppliers had or knew any sources for
redwood, and I have a feeling I would not find a 4x4 redwood post that
would fit my budget.

The idea is to keep the redwood that I have since it's hard to come by
and really expensive.

I thought about using PVC because it's easier to drill holes in the
bottom and put bolts thru to add in "twist proofing" in the concrete
base. I'm sure I could find some square tubing that would probably be
better for the application and predrill holes in it I guess.

Perhaps a better concrete with higher shear strength or something
would also be advantageous.


Richard Cline wrote:
In article ,
Clyde wrote:

I would suggest that you do it the right way. Completely remove the old
post and install a new post. I believe that you will be happier in the
long run and it will probably be less work. I've replaced numerous
redwood posts on a basketweave fence. If the old post is set in
concrete it can be a real pain to dig up the concrete but it is still
only an extra hour. However it sounds like you plan to remove the old
base regardless. The new post needs to be strong if it supports the
gate so you need a good concrete base.

Concrete filled PVC will not have much sideways strength. The concrete
will easily fracture. You might fill the pipe with concrete and rebar
but I wouldn't bet on success.

If you are going to all this effort do something where you are confident
of success.

Not sure about the weather conditions. I'm in the southeast USA so we
get our share of wet weather.

That's the beauty of redwood. Its a great outdoor wood.


WillR wrote:
When faced with problems like this I head down to the local building
supply. They are usually familiar with local conditions, building regs
and stuff. I presume there are no side issues like pools etc. that call
for oddball measures etc.

Sounds to me like you know a lot of the tricks tho.

I don't know your local weather conditions etc. but if it lasted 40
years it must be pretty good conditions - not much rain and no termites. :-
Lucky stiff! :-)

Ouch. Just got off the phone with the closest redwood person I could
find and one 4x4x8'post is $98.00 and they say it probably isn't as
good a quality as what was available 30+ years ago. Plus the store is
about 40 miles one way from me and I know shipping would add a few
more bucks to it.

Clean out the old hole.
Coat the inside with concrete bonder (basically watery glue - but you can
get it at the HW store)
Get a piece of 1/4" x 3-1/2" x 24-30" steel plate with 1/2" holes bored in
it.
Set one end of the plate in the hole and grout it in place with the plate
perpendicular to the plane of the fence.
Cut a 1/4" wide slot in the post.
Drill holes to match the holes in the plate.
Use some 3/8" bolts and washers to secure the post to the plate.
One of the ready-made post bases may work too, but may not fit in the hole
you have.

It will make replacement easy in the future.

-j


"Clyde" wrote in message
...
We have a small (8 section) basketweave fence that's been around for
40+ years. I recently reworked several of the panels using as much of
the redwood as possible and using cedar when I had to replace wood.

The post that holds the large gate has rotted at the bottom (was
repaired a couple times) at the top of the last concrete pour.

My idea is to use the original redwood post but to use a pipe to
secure the post. My thought is to place a concrete filled pvc pipe
into the center of the post, perhaps 3-4 feet deep, glue (or screw)
the pipe inside the post and then set the pvc pipe into fresh concrete
(again about 2 feet down).

I'm not a woodworker and don't have a horizontal boring machine that
could bore a 2 inch hole in the center of a post 3-4 feet.

I've thought of cutting the post in half then routing out the
material, placing the pipe, then glueing the two halves together but
don't know if I'd just be introducing another failure point with that
long joint and weather seapage, etc..

Any thoughts on how a layman could tackle this, or should I try to
find someone with a boring machine? (dont know what heading that
would be in the yellow pages)

My first thought was to use one of those post bases but I don't think
it would be sufficient to withstand the horizontal loads placed on it
by the fence's gate. It would only be attached to about 4" of the
post at the base.


"J" wrote:
Clean out the old hole.
Coat the inside with concrete bonder (basically watery glue - but you can
get it at the HW store)
Get a piece of 1/4" x 3-1/2" x 24-30" steel plate with 1/2" holes bored in
it.
Set one end of the plate in the hole and grout it in place with the plate
perpendicular to the plane of the fence.
Cut a 1/4" wide slot in the post.
Drill holes to match the holes in the plate.
Use some 3/8" bolts and washers to secure the post to the plate.
One of the ready-made post bases may work too, but may not fit in the hole
you have.

It will make replacement easy in the future.

In article ,
Clyde wrote:

You should be able to keep your old basketweave panels. It is no big
deal to separate them from the post. Just cut between the post and the
2 X 2 members amd you will quickly sever the 3 or 4 nails.

If you can't get 4 X 4 redwood, get cedar or treated lumber or any kind
of 4 X 4 and treat it yourself. I find your cost of 4 X 4 redwood
astounding. We can get it here in California very cheaply. I just
priced some fencing done by a local contractor. A top quality 6'
redwood fence costs around $30 a foot. (4 X 4 Redwood posts, 1 X 6
redwood boards, and 2 X 4 redwood laterals.) I'm sure that half the
cost is labor.

I'm about to replace 200 feet of basketweave. My dog tears it up llike
it was balsa.

I still maintain that you will be ahead by putting in a new, solid post
and eliminate the patchwork efforts.

Dick

When I was looking at getting replacement panels for the fence, I
couldn't find anyone online that carried aimilar basketweave.
Sections that were the same size but less "weave" were over $1000
each.

When I tried finding replacement redwood slats or rails I couldn't
find those either. I couldn't even find a supplier of 2x2 redwood for
the rails. None of my local suppliers had or knew any sources for
redwood, and I have a feeling I would not find a 4x4 redwood post that
would fit my budget.

The idea is to keep the redwood that I have since it's hard to come by
and really expensive.

I thought about using PVC because it's easier to drill holes in the
bottom and put bolts thru to add in "twist proofing" in the concrete
base. I'm sure I could find some square tubing that would probably be
better for the application and predrill holes in it I guess.

Perhaps a better concrete with higher shear strength or something
would also be advantageous.

Richard Cline wrote:

In article ,
Clyde wrote:

You should be able to keep your old basketweave panels. It is no big
deal to separate them from the post. Just cut between the post and the
2 X 2 members amd you will quickly sever the 3 or 4 nails.

If you can't get 4 X 4 redwood, get cedar or treated lumber or any kind
of 4 X 4 and treat it yourself. I find your cost of 4 X 4 redwood
astounding. We can get it here in California very cheaply. I just
priced some fencing done by a local contractor. A top quality 6'
redwood fence costs around $30 a foot. (4 X 4 Redwood posts, 1 X 6
redwood boards, and 2 X 4 redwood laterals.) I'm sure that half the
cost is labor.

I'm about to replace 200 feet of basketweave. My dog tears it up llike
it was balsa.

You might want to try Ipe or Massaranduba instead of redwood--I suspect that
your dog is going to find them much less tearable. Unless of course
replacing torn up basketweave is your idea of fun.

I still maintain that you will be ahead by putting in a new, solid post
and eliminate the patchwork efforts.

Dick

When I was looking at getting replacement panels for the fence, I
couldn't find anyone online that carried aimilar basketweave.
Sections that were the same size but less "weave" were over $1000
each.

When I tried finding replacement redwood slats or rails I couldn't
find those either. I couldn't even find a supplier of 2x2 redwood for
the rails. None of my local suppliers had or knew any sources for
redwood, and I have a feeling I would not find a 4x4 redwood post that
would fit my budget.

The idea is to keep the redwood that I have since it's hard to come by
and really expensive.

I thought about using PVC because it's easier to drill holes in the
bottom and put bolts thru to add in "twist proofing" in the concrete
base. I'm sure I could find some square tubing that would probably be
better for the application and predrill holes in it I guess.

Perhaps a better concrete with higher shear strength or something
would also be advantageous.


--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Wed, 20 Apr 2005 10:59:55 -0400, Clyde wrote:

We have a small (8 section) basketweave fence that's been around for
40+ years. I recently reworked several of the panels using as much of
the redwood as possible and using cedar when I had to replace wood.

The post that holds the large gate has rotted at the bottom (was
repaired a couple times) at the top of the last concrete pour.

My idea is to use the original redwood post but to use a pipe to
secure the post. My thought is to place a concrete filled pvc pipe
into the center of the post, perhaps 3-4 feet deep, glue (or screw)
the pipe inside the post and then set the pvc pipe into fresh concrete
(again about 2 feet down).

I'm not a woodworker and don't have a horizontal boring machine that
could bore a 2 inch hole in the center of a post 3-4 feet.

I've thought of cutting the post in half then routing out the
material, placing the pipe, then glueing the two halves together but
don't know if I'd just be introducing another failure point with that
long joint and weather seapage, etc..

Any thoughts on how a layman could tackle this, or should I try to
find someone with a boring machine? (dont know what heading that
would be in the yellow pages)

IF they still make them, you can buy a metal plate/rod thing at the BORG that's
made to do just what you're trying to use a pipe for..
it was a long rod with a bolt plate welded on it, you pound the stake into the
ground and bold the old fence post to it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Get the big post (actually column) bases that are 8" above the level of the
concrete.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...rs/LCB-CB.html

-j

"Clyde" wrote in message
...
My first thought was to use one of those post bases but I don't think
it would be sufficient to withstand the horizontal loads placed on it
by the fence's gate. It would only be attached to about 4" of the
post at the base.


"J" wrote:
Clean out the old hole.
Coat the inside with concrete bonder (basically watery glue - but you can
get it at the HW store)
Get a piece of 1/4" x 3-1/2" x 24-30" steel plate with 1/2" holes bored
in
it.
Set one end of the plate in the hole and grout it in place with the plate
perpendicular to the plane of the fence.
Cut a 1/4" wide slot in the post.
Drill holes to match the holes in the plate.
Use some 3/8" bolts and washers to secure the post to the plate.
One of the ready-made post bases may work too, but may not fit in the
hole
you have.

It will make replacement easy in the future.