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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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ASP Tools v M2
Hi all i'm just about to buy my first set of tools and wondered if anyone
could give there opinion on the ASP range of tools via the M2 range and is the extra price worth it?. Many Thanks Dave |
#2
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For what it is worth, here is my thinking, inspired by some better
turners than I... Regardless of how sharp your tool is, you SHOULD regrind before taking a finishing cut on a piece. It is worth it since it will save you lots of sanding. So, with most work, you will be grinding more often to make that last cut than because your tool is dull. That is the case for either M2 or ASP tools, so why pay the extra money? Granted, you will occasionally grind an M2 tool where the ASP may continue to be sharp enough. That will not happen very often, though. The exception -- I use the Oneway mastercut bowl gouges and these are M4 I think. I feel no need to convert to ASP here -- these cost enough as it is and the service I get from them is just fine. Bill Dave Walker wrote: Hi all i'm just about to buy my first set of tools and wondered if anyone could give there opinion on the ASP range of tools via the M2 range and is the extra price worth it?. Many Thanks Dave |
#3
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Dave Walker wrote:
Hi all i'm just about to buy my first set of tools and wondered if anyone could give there opinion on the ASP range of tools via the M2 range and is the extra price worth it?. In my opinion ASP is not the right way to go for beginners. Here is my thinking on this: 1 - as a beginner it is going to take you a while to learn to sharpen them correctly. You are going to waste quite a bit of steel doing this, so I think it is better to waste the cheaper stuff. 2 - the more frequently you have to sharpen the faster you will learn. 3 - if you think that ASP will stay sharp until your buddy comes over next week to sharpen them for you, you are wrong! 4 - unless you have bottomless pockets you can afford more of the M2 tools. I would rather have two M2 bowl gouges with different grinds than one ASP. 5 - unless you are a prolific turner, some M2 tools may out live you, so there is no real monetary saving. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#4
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Dave,
When I got my first lathe, the guy who sold it to me recomended that I get a generic set of high speed steel tools which I did. They served me quite well for a while. I was always curioys about the other tools. I got one of the 'stays sharp 3 times longer' gouges to see if it was true. It seemed to be, and it soon became my tool of choice. One day, on a whim, I switched back to my high speed steel gouge, and noticed that it had a noticably keener edge. I then would use the hard steel one for the major stock removal, and the M2 for the finish cuts. I noticed that the 'fresh off the grinder edge' would last the about the same amount of time on either tool, but the 'I can still make a few more passes before sharpening'edge lasts a lot longer with the harder steel. I have an Elsworth signature gouge, a One Way master cut, a 2030 gouge, and a Glaser V-15 gouge. They all work well, but I like the feel and cutting action of the Glaser the best. I prefer my tools on the heavy side (I did concrete work for 30 years), and this tool has weight. There is also something about the way that it cuts, that may have more to do with the shape; it has a high narrow flute,which may give it more of a shear cutting action than the others, but I am still trying to figure out exactly what it is. I reserve the right to change my mind in the future, as I will continue to experiment. robo hippy |
#5
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Dave, I'm probably an intermediate or average turner, but I sure agree
with Bill and Derek. I don't know when a sharp turning tool becomes less sharp than it could be. So when the time comes that I want to be sure that a tool is as sharp as I can make it (and that's often), I need to resharpen it regardless of the steel. M2 seems satisfactory for me. For that matter if not for the poor heat resistance and that otherwise top of the line tools are not available in high carbon steel these days, I'd probably be using them along with my old Sheffield steel Sorbys. Probably as important as the steel is what tools are in the set. Welcome and good luck. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#6
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Thanks for the feedback I think i'll stick with the M2 range and buy a load
of wood with the extra money i've saved. Looking forward to participating in the group. Happy Turning Dave "Dave Walker" wrote in message ... Hi all i'm just about to buy my first set of tools and wondered if anyone could give there opinion on the ASP range of tools via the M2 range and is the extra price worth it?. Many Thanks Dave |
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