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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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How to Turn a Tapered Spindle?
I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5"
square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is .... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. |
#2
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"buck" skrev i melding ervers.com... I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5" square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is ... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. I make a lot of these for stool-legs. What I do: I measure the length of the finished leg, mark, and turn the thickness + some with a parting iron in each end. I calculate the thicness of the middle, and turn this thickness + some, in the middle. Then I use the roughingiron to take the edges and the main thicness down to near the thickness marked with the parting iron, then I change to a 1" oval chisel "scary sharp" and I straighten the line down to the parting iron marks. After controlmeasuring, I either use the chisel more, or I sand and finish. An aluminum ruler is my help to get he line straight; I just hold it along the spindle, and mark "humps" with my pencil and take them off with the chisel. If I make a longer leg, I make more measured markings with the parting tool along the length. Good luck:-) Bjarte |
#3
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On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 09:12:21 -0700, "buck" wrote:
I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5" square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is ... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. what type of lathe are you using? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#4
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On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 09:12:21 -0700, "buck"
wrote: I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5" square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is ... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. There are several ways to do this. A lathe duplicator will do the job quickly and your spindles will be the same. The cutting tool follows a template that is cut from a piece of hardboard. The downside is lathe duplicators can be rather expensive. Another option is to build a carriage that clamps onto the bed and allows a router (fitted with a core box bit) to run along a sloped track. In either case, I would remove the excess on the table saw or band saw. I don't have the extra bucks to buy a lathe duplicator, but have built "router carriages" to make many tapered duplicate spindles. This setup can actually be done without a lathe, using a friend to run an electric drill to turn the piece while I move the router down the carriage at the approximate rate of 5 seconds per inch of travel. |
#5
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"buck" wrote in message ervers.com... I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5" square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is ... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. One of my first projects was to make 2 36"dia fake wagon wheels each with 12 spokes. 1.25" at one end and 3/4" at the other end. I started by turning the critical end diameters, then as mentioned by another poster, I calculated the thickness of the center and cut into the wood with a parting tool to that diamenter plus a good /32" or so for sanding. I then did the same thing at the 3/4 and 1/4 points along the spindle. I then "joined up" the different levels with a gouge and skew chisel. This is an excellent project to get some good experience using the skew. After doing about 3 this way I said to heck with cutting the depths at the 1/4 and 3/4 points and just did the ends and center. After about 5 more I said to heck with the center and just did the ends. Are they absolutely identical? No. Can you tell by looking at the wheels? No. In fact most projects involving spindles don't have to have them absolutely identical. Get them as close as possible at the important details and the rest will usually be fine. You will quickly see where an obvious flaw is a problem that you have to correct. If you only have enough stock to do the good pieces I would glue up some scrap and practice a bit first. You'll see where your technique or lack of it is causing you trouble. Billh |
#6
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"buck" wrote in message ervers.com... I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5" square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is ... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. Nothing quite as exotic as the others'. I cut the tapers oversize by about 1/8 on the bandsaw and cut until the "click" stops on the lathe - round. Then I refine to the critical dimensions with the skew and sand. |
#7
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Lathe duplicator? Router carriage? Whatsa matter, Phish, don't you like to
turn? Barry "Phisherman" wrote in message ... On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 09:12:21 -0700, "buck" wrote: I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5" square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is ... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. There are several ways to do this. A lathe duplicator will do the job quickly and your spindles will be the same. The cutting tool follows a template that is cut from a piece of hardboard. The downside is lathe duplicators can be rather expensive. Another option is to build a carriage that clamps onto the bed and allows a router (fitted with a core box bit) to run along a sloped track. In either case, I would remove the excess on the table saw or band saw. I don't have the extra bucks to buy a lathe duplicator, but have built "router carriages" to make many tapered duplicate spindles. This setup can actually be done without a lathe, using a friend to run an electric drill to turn the piece while I move the router down the carriage at the approximate rate of 5 seconds per inch of travel. |
#8
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I would agree with parting tool / calipers / roughing tool followed by
skew, but will add a couple of other thoughts too. First, when duplicating by hand, it helps to do the same thing, in the same order, to each item. So it pays to make a story stick to help you get the same positions along the length of the turning. Then, to make it easier to set calipers, I have turned a spindle with steps of various diameters. Not only is it faster to set calipers this way, rather than using a ruler, it is also more consistent. The other suggestion may or may not help. I have used it to make morse taper plugs, but I am not sure if it will scale up well to the job you have. But what I did was take a piece of plywood and mark out the taper you want. Then glue some pieces of wood either side of the taper (in your case something about 6/4 x 6/4 would be ideal) so that you make a 'box' that will fit the taper. Then, when you get the tapers nearly done, you can stop the lathe and offer the box up to the taper to see if it fits and check the slope. It is good that you cut the blanks over long. If you start out with the finished shape closer to the narrow end of the wood, you give yourself some slack to play with if things don't go well. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#9
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Derek..... Great ideas..... Thank You!
"Derek Andrews" wrote in message ... I would agree with parting tool / calipers / roughing tool followed by skew, but will add a couple of other thoughts too. First, when duplicating by hand, it helps to do the same thing, in the same order, to each item. So it pays to make a story stick to help you get the same positions along the length of the turning. Then, to make it easier to set calipers, I have turned a spindle with steps of various diameters. Not only is it faster to set calipers this way, rather than using a ruler, it is also more consistent. The other suggestion may or may not help. I have used it to make morse taper plugs, but I am not sure if it will scale up well to the job you have. But what I did was take a piece of plywood and mark out the taper you want. Then glue some pieces of wood either side of the taper (in your case something about 6/4 x 6/4 would be ideal) so that you make a 'box' that will fit the taper. Then, when you get the tapers nearly done, you can stop the lathe and offer the box up to the taper to see if it fits and check the slope. It is good that you cut the blanks over long. If you start out with the finished shape closer to the narrow end of the wood, you give yourself some slack to play with if things don't go well. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#10
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Thanks to All for the help....... Off I go.....
"George" george@least wrote in message ... "buck" wrote in message ervers.com... I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5" square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is ... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. Nothing quite as exotic as the others'. I cut the tapers oversize by about 1/8 on the bandsaw and cut until the "click" stops on the lathe - round. Then I refine to the critical dimensions with the skew and sand. |
#11
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"Phisherman" wrote in message ... On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 09:12:21 -0700, "buck" wrote: SNIP ............ Another option is to build a carriage that clamps onto the bed and allows a router (fitted with a core box bit) to run along a sloped track. In either case, I would remove the excess on the table saw or band saw. I don't have the extra bucks to buy a lathe duplicator, but have built "router carriages" to make many tapered duplicate spindles. This setup can actually be done without a lathe, using a friend to run an electric drill to turn the piece while I move the router down the carriage at the approximate rate of 5 seconds per inch of travel. ========================== There are several commercial products that do this. A low cost version was sold several years back by Sears under the name "Router Crafter". In addition to the duplication, it had a cable drive that allowed spirals in both directions. It could also be indexed for straight line fluting. They show up on E-bay from time to time. If you can get one for $50.00 (USD) or less, it would be a good accessory to have on hand. There's a more precision device, but it goes for much higher $$. Try Art Ransom's web site for more details. Neither on will replace your lathe, but can be a usful add-on. Ken Moon Webberville, TX |
#12
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Hi Buck
Mixed the two Question up, sorry So I was going to suggest for the sharpening question to go to Darrell Feltmates web site, he has a lot of good info for all turners, not just grinding but also making tools, projects, how to's etc. http://aroundthewoods.com the answer for this question is with the last one, how to sharpen G Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo buck wrote: I am a novice at woodturning and could use some guidance. I have a 2.5" square of laminated poplar 16" long. I want to shape it so it ends up as a tapered spindle 2.5" on one end and 1.5" at the other end. I do have an extra inch on each end which could be wasted if necessary. My question is ... What is the best way to do this? I can see myself taking off too much wood somewhere along the way and having to throw away the piece. Would WWs band saw it first? I will have to make four of them. I don't know how to turn them so that they end up with a relatively consistant taper..... I posted this at another forum also.....Any help appreciated. |
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