Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Mill spindle bearing replacement questions
Hi all,
I'm in the process of replacing the spindle bearings on my '45 Gorton 8D. The spindle is set up with a pair of tapered bearings on the top of the spindle and a pair of tapered bearings on the bottom of the spindle. I've pulled the old bearings out and have purchased new equivalents; or as close as I can get. They're class seven FAG units. Anyhow, the manual for an 8 ½D (which is all I have) suggests a couple of things that I'm not familiar with. I'm hoping to get some help from the folks on this NG. The manual suggests that I should mark the relationship between the spacer that is clamped between the upper and lower bearing pairs on the spindle. I admit to spacing out when I pulled the thing apart and didn't mark the spindle. Any idea why Gorton would suggest this? Balance perhaps? Any idea of how to rectify this situation? The manual also suggest pairing the "balance marks" on the bearings together. There are some marks on the bearing races but I'm wondering if this is a requirement for new bearings or if anyone has even heard of this. I would have expected bearings to be in balance by their very nature. My last question is regarding the lubrication of the bearings. I think they are lubricated by light spindle oil from the oil cups (I need to trace the oil path to make sure). Assuming that they are lubed by the oil cups, should they also be packed with grease? My assumption is "no", but I'm wondering if anyone has specific or even general info on lubrication of spindles of this type or vintage. If they should be greased, what type of grease should I use? The information provided by the manufacturer on allowable bearing loads when packed with grease vs. lubed with oil suggests that either will work fine given the loads and RPMs the mill will see. Any suggestions, thoughts, or recommendations are appreciated. Thanks, Peter |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Mill spindle bearing replacement questions
I admit to spacing out when I pulled the thing apart and didn't mark the spindle. Any idea why Gorton would suggest this? Balance perhaps? The bearings are gound as a set, and "witness marks" are engraved on them. These marks should be aligned when the spacer is inserted between them. Same issue on lathe spindles. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Mill spindle bearing replacement questions
"Peter H." wrote in message ... I admit to spacing out when I pulled the thing apart and didn't mark the spindle. Any idea why Gorton would suggest this? Balance perhaps? The bearings are gound as a set, and "witness marks" are engraved on them. These marks should be aligned when the spacer is inserted between them. I'm assuming that the new bearings I bought weren't ground as a set - they didn't come packaged that way. They do have "dots" etched or marked on the outer races. Would these be the witness marks? What's the point of having the spacer align with the witness marks? There seems to be no difference that I can measure in the length of the spacer at various points around the shoulder. Peter |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Mill spindle bearing replacement questions
"Peter Grey" wrote in message ink.net... "Peter H." wrote in message ... I admit to spacing out when I pulled the thing apart and didn't mark the spindle. Any idea why Gorton would suggest this? Balance perhaps? The bearings are gound as a set, and "witness marks" are engraved on them. These marks should be aligned when the spacer is inserted between them. I'm assuming that the new bearings I bought weren't ground as a set - they didn't come packaged that way. They do have "dots" etched or marked on the outer races. Would these be the witness marks? What's the point of having the spacer align with the witness marks? There seems to be no difference that I can measure in the length of the spacer at various points around the shoulder. Peter When you get down to the level of precision of these bearings, millionths are of concern. It's highly unlikely you'd be able to discern any differences with common measuring tools, but the end result of the spindle precision is at stake. If you were working on a jig borer or a precision grinder it would be very important that you assembled the bearings in proper order. Most of us that work at home have few, if any, requirements that would be in keeping with the level of precision involved, and you may not even be able to detect the differences in the spindle. It is highly unlikely it would be a concern because the differences are in millionths, not thousandths. Considering you have no idea how the spacer relates to the bearings because you didn't mark it, I'm of the opinion that you can simply assemble and run your bearings with acceptable results. Be certain you have them assembled in the right direction, for most of them are built to be run under some preload, so they come apart if assembled in the wrong direction. Once that happens, they are junk. blush. Don't ask. Harold |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Van Norman End Mill Questions | Metalworking | |||
Advice needed on replacing spindle bearings in Enco Mill Drill | Metalworking | |||
Success! Homebrew R8 spindle mill | Metalworking |