I have some very soft timber that is giving me problems with grain tearout.
Ashley Isles make a Reg Sherwin Shear Scraper that looks like it would be
good for this application. I am wondering if anyone has used this tool and
what their experience was.

Thanks Rod.

"Rod" skrev i melding
news
I have some very soft timber that is giving me problems with grain
tearout.
Ashley Isles make a Reg Sherwin Shear Scraper that looks like it would be
good for this application. I am wondering if anyone has used this tool and
what their experience was.



Why not try a sharp gouge, and _cutting_?

Bjarte

"Rod" wrote in message
news
I have some very soft timber that is giving me problems with grain
tearout.
Ashley Isles make a Reg Sherwin Shear Scraper that looks like it would be
good for this application. I am wondering if anyone has used this tool and
what their experience was.


Any edge can scrape, presented either broadly in the traditional definition,
or narrowly. The various tools named scrapers only remove one unknown from
the equation by providing a stable orientation for the edge.

You say soft, which can mean merely soft, like willow, poplars and others,
or it can mean coniferous. Neither respond particularly well to the
scraper, as its action depends a lot on the support from the surrounding
fibers to keep from pulling rather than severing, with conifers adding the
problem of differential softness, where the denser late growth breaks and
collapses into the softer early.

Try the edges you have first, making sure to get the toolrest as close to
the work as possible, and at a height which will put the part actually
scraping almost at centerline. You're looking to get an edge almost 90
degrees to the work and 45 or less to the rotation. DON'T push on the tool
beyond gaining contact. Let the wood come to it. If the wood responds to
an angle maintained by the scraper under consideration, you might want to
purchase it.

I find shear cutting preferable to scraping, but if it has failed you,
perhaps you can salvage the piece with scrapers or sandpaper.

On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 09:55:32 GMT, "Rod" wrote:

I have some very soft timber that is giving me problems with grain tearout.
Ashley Isles make a Reg Sherwin Shear Scraper that looks like it would be
good for this application. I am wondering if anyone has used this tool and
what their experience was.

Shear scrapers are okay, and I have had decent results with Sorby's,
but you can save yourself a lot of work with razor edges and, if that
fails, ie. if the wood is just __too__ soft, you can try stiffening
the fuzz with either paste wax, or cellulose sanding sealer cut 50%
with turpentine. After either of them dries, the fibers will be much
more prone to cutting, providing you use the sharpest edge you can
manage.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

Hi Rod

Real soft wood you say ?, well as far as I am concerned if you can not
cut it you certainly can not scrape it, don't matter who's name is in
front of "scraper.
However there might be ways to improve the ability of cutting or
scraping the wood, you could use sanding sealer, CA, thinned white glue,
shellac, etc. to stiffen up the wood so you can cut the wood or scrape
it, also it does help us if you give more info when asking a question,
there is a lot of expertise out there, but they do need basic info to
know the what and how.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Rod wrote:
I have some very soft timber that is giving me problems with grain tearout.
Ashley Isles make a Reg Sherwin Shear Scraper that looks like it would be
good for this application. I am wondering if anyone has used this tool and
what their experience was.

Thanks Rod.

In article , "George" george@least
wrote:

Any edge can scrape, presented either broadly in the traditional definition,
or narrowly. The various tools named scrapers only remove one unknown from
the equation by providing a stable orientation for the edge.

Hi George. My impression is that you're darned near the closest
participant we've got to Mike Darlow with his technical view of turning.
So, in that light I ask this question:

Would the bevel angle on the underside of a scraper affect the surface
quality achieved? The bevel acts as support for the edge as well as
establishing the clearance angle behind(under) the edge. In other words,
would it make any difference to the surface finish scraping with an edge
formed by an 85 degree angle vs. a 60 degree angle?

Remaining in this line of thought, consider a bench plane and the mouth
opening for the iron. The front of the mouth supports the wood and helps
keep the cut from becoming a tear in the grain and running ahead of the
iron's edge. I wonder if some sort of scraper design could be devised
such that there's a hood just above the scraper edge that might serve
the same purpose. (Something along the lines of the Proforme or other
shielded hollowing cutters.)

--
"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news

Would the bevel angle on the underside of a scraper affect the surface
quality achieved? The bevel acts as support for the edge as well as
establishing the clearance angle behind(under) the edge. In other words,
would it make any difference to the surface finish scraping with an edge
formed by an 85 degree angle vs. a 60 degree angle?

Remaining in this line of thought, consider a bench plane and the mouth
opening for the iron. The front of the mouth supports the wood and helps
keep the cut from becoming a tear in the grain and running ahead of the
iron's edge. I wonder if some sort of scraper design could be devised
such that there's a hood just above the scraper edge that might serve
the same purpose. (Something along the lines of the Proforme or other
shielded hollowing cutters.)


Edge is an edge. For the type of scraping we do, the bevel is just a
sharpening phenomenon. Some scrapers are ground at 90 degrees to the face
and still scrape when turned on edge. I'm a clean edge scraper fan, but
some leave the wire edge from sharpening on the tool, and old Frank Pain
turned his carbon steel with a burnisher. Means their edge is entirely
independent of the bevel.

As far as devising a turning plane, I think you need to remember that
rotation is changing our stock presentation to us even as we bring the tool
to it. Try to figure the optimum type of shaving from one presentation, and
it changes with the curve and rotation. For instance, I prefer to shear the
outsides of my turnings, producing full twisted shavings , but there is a
certain point on the curvature where I take almost no shear, to avoid
picking out tiny pieces of side grain. Those who have turned ring porous
wood will recognize that effect. For inside you'd need a double curve,
(like a gouge?) to have a chance to get a stable shaving, which of course
would only be of one type based on exposure, clearance, and bevel angle, and
would be entirely unsuitable in some grain orientations.

Though I have used planes on the outside of spindle turnings to good effect,
I think the best thing you can do for your surface is to take the thinnest
shaving possible. Won't be perfectly suited to all circumstances, but it'll
give the best overall results. If you're forced to scrape, so be it. Also
take the thinnest as best compromise.

Here's one scraper I use all the time
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,310,41069 to
scrape the button at the bottom, and the last of a tenon, when I use one.
Also the bowls of spoons.

Scraping soft wood is always a problem.
The angle of the blade to the wood causes tearing out of grain. If you
increase the angle the tool will often become un-manageable. The guarded
hook tool system (look at it on our site) gives the user a slicing cut but
with the advantage of a limited amount of cutter exposed to the wood.
Scraping is fine for hard wood although the short high speed chips comming
off the cutter can be annoying and a face shield is helpful
Ken Port

--
www.woodcut-tools.com


"Rod" wrote in message
news
I have some very soft timber that is giving me problems with grain
tearout.
Ashley Isles make a Reg Sherwin Shear Scraper that looks like it would be
good for this application. I am wondering if anyone has used this tool and
what their experience was.

Thanks Rod.

George wrote:
snip

Here's one scraper I use all the time
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,310,41069 to
scrape the button at the bottom, and the last of a tenon, when I use one.
Also the bowls of spoons.

Me too, a very useful scraper that often works in areas that are not
easily accessed and saves a lot of sanding. A most useful tool whose
modest price far exceeds its utility.
Lyn

Hi Lyn, "....modest price far exceeds its utility" ....typo or damning
with faint praise? After your's & George's posts,
I bet there will be a run on them at L.V.

I know you both sigh and await another of my 'not quite as good
thrifts'. For the generosity deprived. I find sharpened small engine
valves make good scrapers for getting into far away places. Their
hardened stems also make good burnishers, but if anyone grinds the
stems, make sure they aren't sodium filled.

Ron, What is different about Reg's scraper? Should I try to make one?



Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

That is embarrasing, it should have been "far exceeded by its utility."

Got to get back to you on the other stuff.

Lyn

Arch wrote:
Hi Lyn, "....modest price far exceeds its utility" ....typo or damning
with faint praise? After your's & George's posts,
I bet there will be a run on them at L.V.

I know you both sigh and await another of my 'not quite as good
thrifts'. For the generosity deprived. I find sharpened small engine
valves make good scrapers for getting into far away places. Their
hardened stems also make good burnishers, but if anyone grinds the
stems, make sure they aren't sodium filled.

Ron, What is different about Reg's scraper? Should I try to make one?



Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Lyn, just COC banter with no intent to embarrass. You long ago earned
the right to invert speech on rcw when and if.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings