Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain. I wonder
if someone in the ng could come up with a way to lessen the pain. I've
mused about
loosely held bolts captured in the jaws. Maybe tiny C clips to keep the
bolts in the holes? Or maybe some sort of snap-in?
Whatever, rcw's mutitude of machinists, engineers, inventors, tinkerers
and generally smart and innovative people should be able to come with a
better way.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

That's what the cheap & nasty allen key (what you yanks call a hex
wrench) sets are good for - cutting up for the corcdless drill.
Cheers
Paul


On Tue, 02 Nov 2004 08:28:09 -0800, Randy Rhine
wrote:

One thing I have done is to cut off the short side of the hex wrench and
then it can be used in a portable drill. It speeds things up a bit.

Another chuck body for the other jaw set works well also.

rr

Arch wrote:
Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain. I wonder
if someone in the ng could come up with a way to lessen the pain. I've
mused about
loosely held bolts captured in the jaws. Maybe tiny C clips to keep the
bolts in the holes? Or maybe some sort of snap-in?
Whatever, rcw's mutitude of machinists, engineers, inventors, tinkerers
and generally smart and innovative people should be able to come with a
better way.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings




Unless otherwise stated all references to location refer to Western Australia

One thing I have done is to cut off the short side of the hex wrench and
then it can be used in a portable drill. It speeds things up a bit.

Another chuck body for the other jaw set works well also.

rr

Arch wrote:
Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain. I wonder
if someone in the ng could come up with a way to lessen the pain. I've
mused about
loosely held bolts captured in the jaws. Maybe tiny C clips to keep the
bolts in the holes? Or maybe some sort of snap-in?
Whatever, rcw's mutitude of machinists, engineers, inventors, tinkerers
and generally smart and innovative people should be able to come with a
better way.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Wallet. Open it up (see powder in my desk thread), brush away the moths,
buy another chuck body or two. I've got two Novas and a Super, and I still
make compromises so I can use what's on 'em at the moment versus what's best
for the job.

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain. I wonder
if someone in the ng could come up with a way to lessen the pain. I've
mused about
loosely held bolts captured in the jaws. Maybe tiny C clips to keep the
bolts in the holes? Or maybe some sort of snap-in?
Whatever, rcw's mutitude of machinists, engineers, inventors, tinkerers
and generally smart and innovative people should be able to come with a
better way.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Maybe there could be a lever/lock type assembly where the jaws are placed in
a channel and then the channel is levered shut with the jaws being drawn
down into the channel and secured in a single motion. I am sure that a
mechanism could be devised that would be strong enough to perform the task
of holding the jaws in place and also allow for the sliding action. I can
see it on the back of my eye lids, but I can not eplain it too well.

Ray

Hello Arch,

I feel your pain... Several years ago when I opened my studio, I started out
with one Vicmarc chuck and a few jaw sets. Back then, I only had one lathe,
so I never needed to change the adapters, but I did change the jaw sets
regularly. Time was the biggest issue for me as a production turner, but it
was a hassle as well. My way to solve this challenge was to purchase several
additional chuck bodies, and to secure each jaw set I owned on its permanent
body.

Today I have 6 Vicmarc chucks for my Oneway 2436 and 2 for the Nova Mercury
Mini, each with a specific jaw set attached. Now, its just a matter of
attaching the specific chuck/jaw set needed and off we go... Problem solved,
hassle eliminated and pocketbook significantly lightened. Like so many
chaps, I will pay for convenience, when it makes my life easier. :-)

I still need to get 3 - 5 more chuck bodies, for some new jaw sets I just
purchased and for some custom ones I'm having manufactured. It seems that no
matter how many tools we own, we never have enough... Hehehehehehe :-) This
may be an expensive option for you, but you might consider adding one more
chuck with the second most used jaw set. That would at least reduce your
inconvenience a little bit. Good luck to you and best wishes in all of your
woodturning endeavours!

--
Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

Steven D. Russell
Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio
The Woodlands, Texas

Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodworking and Woodturning
Industries

³Woodturning w/Steven D. Russell² Volume #1 CD ROM * Available for Shipment
Volume #2 CD ROM/DVD Video * Available for Shipment

On 11/2/04 9:37 AM, in article
, "Arch"
wrote:

Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain. I wonder
if someone in the ng could come up with a way to lessen the pain. I've
mused about
loosely held bolts captured in the jaws. Maybe tiny C clips to keep the
bolts in the holes? Or maybe some sort of snap-in?
Whatever, rcw's mutitude of machinists, engineers, inventors, tinkerers
and generally smart and innovative people should be able to come with a
better way.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch wrote: (clip) I wonder if someone in the ng could come up with a way to
lessen the pain. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
As a practical matter, I think we can forget about changes in chuck
construction. Anything what would allow the jaws to slip in and out, yet
hold well, would make the chuck very expensive. Might as well just buy two
or three chucks.

My solution is to have two chucks, with different jaws mounted. I can
usually find a way to use one of the pair. If not, I change jaws. For
this, I use a rechargeable screwdriver with an Allen wrench inserted. It's
pretty fast if the rechargreable batteries are fresh.

The other thing I do is drop a magnetic parts tray on the ways, to hold all
the loose parts. Less reaching, AND, if a screw falls out of my fingers, it
does not go down into the 6" of wood chips I keep on the floor to protect my
tool tips.

What me buy a chuck body for each jaw set! The sky would fall down.
Actually I've been forced to buy several chucks because of the hassle.
My query was for those who do not have a full set of chuck/jaw
combinations and lathes with spindles for every situation. I really
wanted your thoughts about devising an easy and less expensive way to
change jaws on _a chuck not with chucks. I know about glue blocks, face
plates and pin chucks and I heard something about vacuum, but I'm
talking scroll chuck jaws here.

I'm afraid to ask about a simple way to get rid of chips and sawdust.
Y'all might suggest moving to a new location as an effective even tho
expensive solution. Like the old Seminoles who moved to another chickee
when the midden got too filthy.

That brayed, I do appreciate everyone's response and I approve your
messages.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

My vote goes with Steve Russell and George. Buy more chucks. I have 4
scroll chucks and 1 dedicated screw chuck. I still have some jaw swaps, but
not as many. 2 more chucks would do it.

--
Rusty Myers
Austin, TX

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain. I wonder
if someone in the ng could come up with a way to lessen the pain. I've
mused about
loosely held bolts captured in the jaws. Maybe tiny C clips to keep the
bolts in the holes? Or maybe some sort of snap-in?
Whatever, rcw's mutitude of machinists, engineers, inventors, tinkerers
and generally smart and innovative people should be able to come with a
better way.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

When I change jaws, the chuck's original cardboard box goes underneath
the chuck to catch dropped parts. I turned a small oak bowl to sit on
top of the headstock to hold the screws. As I remove each jaw, I turn
the chuck so that that jaw is down first, so that I can see the
screws. When putting in screws, I always start at the ones furthest
from the centerline of the chuck, which forces the inner holes to
automatically line up.

One of my projects is to get four different colored paints and paint
dots on the chuck body and jaws so I don't have to keep squinting to
see the stamped numbers.

As for allen wrenches, if you use a drill make sure it has a clutch,
and set it low enough or you won't get the screws out later ;-)
Magnetizing the allen wrench might help too, although I find the
screws just stick on mine (it still fits snugly).

Hi there Arch

It could be done I think, with some machining to the base jaws and the
top jaws, i'm thinking 2 mushroom like pins on the top jaws and
receiving key holes-slots on the base jaws, to keep the top jaws against
the bottom jaws, then a push in 1/4 turn lock pin to lock them in place,
to keep them from moving back.
O yes, you go right ahead with it, I rather machine some wood G.

Have lots of fun but do take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Arch wrote:
Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain. I wonder
if someone in the ng could come up with a way to lessen the pain. I've
mused about
loosely held bolts captured in the jaws. Maybe tiny C clips to keep the
bolts in the holes? Or maybe some sort of snap-in?
Whatever, rcw's mutitude of machinists, engineers, inventors, tinkerers
and generally smart and innovative people should be able to come with a
better way.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

snip As a practical matter, I think we can forget about changes in
chuck
construction. Anything what would allow the jaws to slip in and out,
yet
hold well, would make the chuck very expensive.snip

And probably not be as accurate. I've got Axminster's (2 Precision &
1 smaller). Even with the Precision (which is the best I've seen
short of metalworking chucks) you have to almost tighten the screws,
close the jaws completely, then tighten the screws to the final torque
to get PERFECT concentricity. I wouldn't want the slop introduced by
any quick change mechanism.

To make it easier I simply got "T" handled hex wrenches. You can
break the screw loose easily and than spin it for quick extraction.
They're small and easy to hang close by with a couple of small nails,
so they're always at hand. I keep a small bowl handy to hold the
screws and a toothbrush to clean grooves and lands that might have
picked up some dust. It isn't that hard or time consuming and I do
change jaws for best fit to project. Still, I will probably buy 1 or
2 more when I have money I don't know what to do with. : )

Arch wrote:
Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain. I wonder
if someone in the ng could come up with a way to lessen the pain. I've
mused about
loosely held bolts captured in the jaws. Maybe tiny C clips to keep the
bolts in the holes? Or maybe some sort of snap-in?
Whatever, rcw's mutitude of machinists, engineers, inventors, tinkerers
and generally smart and innovative people should be able to come with a
better way.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Fortiter,


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Steve Russell has almost stumbled onto the answer to the
problem, but it has eluded even him. Here it is: build an
addition onto the shop and set up an assembly line of
LATHES, one dedicated to faceplates, one with a large bowl
chuck, one for small spigot jaws, one for cole jaws, etc.
You could probably get a discount on buying lathes in
quantity. One nasty problem remains, however: walking from
one lathe to the other.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

It is fatal to live too long.






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I change jaws with the chuck off of the lathe so loosing screws is not a
problem.

I have bought an extra set of screws for each jaw set, and they never
get taken out, just stored in situ in the jaws. This saves a lot of time
fiddling with screws. I use a long allen key (about 6"x2") first go
around to loosen the screw, then spin the long part of the key between
thumb and forefinger, much like a spinning top. Then I lift all four
jaws off in one go and put them away in the drawer, in a group so that
jaw sequence is maintained. The new jaws come out, I locate the number 1
jaw, orientate it with its slider, and drop all four jaws on in one go.
Then get the screws in and finally tighten them. It is still a bit of a
chore, but it does save considerable time over fiddling with individual
jaws and changing the screws.

As a production turner, I try to arrange my workflow as much as possible
so that jaw changes are limited. Sometimes I won't change jaws for a
week or more. But that is not always possible, especially doing OOAKs
and prototyping. Anything that speeds the job up and is cost effective
is welcome. So when Arch starts manufacturing a snap-on jaw set let me know.

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
Wedding Favors ~ Artisan Crafted Gifts ~ One-of-a-Kind Woodturning

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message

Steve Russell has almost stumbled onto the answer to the problem, but it
has eluded even him. Here it is: build an addition onto the shop and set
up an assembly line of LATHES, one dedicated to faceplates, one with a
large bowl chuck, one for small spigot jaws, one for cole jaws, etc. You
could probably get a discount on buying lathes in quantity. One nasty
problem remains, however: walking from one lathe to the other.

LOL.

Solution: Large shop, lathes oriented in a circular pattern, and the turner
stands on a single spot on an in-floor turntable. Push a remote control
button and advance to the next lathe, as it were. Or better yet, pay
someone to do your turning so you needn't soil your hands.

A more economical alternative is to have several chucks available for use,
each with a different set of jaws. This would be a reasonable alternative
for the large-scale production turner, I'd think. The rest of us will
simply have to muck on through with jaw-changing.

Max

"Maxprop" wrote: (clip) Push a remote control button and advance to the
next lathe, (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Maybe redefine "turret lathe" to mean "several lathes mounted on a turret."

I tried to post this last night but it hasn't shown up, at least on my
server, so I'll try again. Sorry if this is duplication.

Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain

Extra jaw slides are available for some chucks. I have several sets
permanently attached to alternate jaws for my Nova chucks. With the stop
screw removed (I leave it out; it's totally unnecessary) I can change jaws
in 30 seconds (tommy bar type chuck; I don't know how long it would take
with a keyed chuck). Jaw slides aren't cheap, but they are a lot cheaper
than buying an extra chuck for each jaw set, and I can swap jaws nearly as
fast as I can remove a chuck from the lathe and put on another.

As for spindle adaptors, you might consider getting thread adaptors
permanently mounted on your lathes so they effectively all come up to the
same spindle thread size. It not only saves messing with your chuck, it
also means all your thread mounted accessories will interchange between
all your lathes.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

Gerald has indeed stumbled upon the answer, only partly...

In addition to the assembly line of lathes, a clone of the original turner
standing in front of each lathe, plus a few more for general shop work seems
to be the ultimate answer. Think about it... One clone to do the grunt work
like chainsawing, sweeping the studio, oiling the lathe bedways etc, another
to do the bandsaw work, one to rough turn, one to finish turn, one to sand,
one to finish, one to buff, one to work on marketing and shipping, with the
original bloke walking around barking orders like the really big guy on
American Chopper. Now that's Nirvana... :-)

Take care and all the best to you and yours!

Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...
Steven D. Russell
Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio
The Woodlands, Texas

Woodturning with Steven D. Russell, Volume #2
E-book and DVD Video Now ready to Ship! Email for Details


Steve Russell has almost stumbled onto the answer to the
problem, but it has eluded even him. Here it is: build an
addition onto the shop and set up an assembly line of
LATHES, one dedicated to faceplates, one with a large bowl
chuck, one for small spigot jaws, one for cole jaws, etc.
You could probably get a discount on buying lathes in
quantity. One nasty problem remains, however: walking from
one lathe to the other.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

It is fatal to live too long.

(Mike Paulson) wrote in
:

Changing spindle adapters and jaws on scroll chucks is a pain

Extra jaw slides are available for some chucks. I have several sets
permanently attached to alternate jaws for my Nova chucks. With the
stop screw removed (I leave it out; it's totally unnecessary) I can
change jaws in 30 seconds (tommy bar type chuck; I don't know how long
it would take with a keyed chuck). Jaw slides aren't cheap, but they
are a lot cheaper than buying an extra chuck for each jaw set, and I
can swap jaws nearly as fast as I can remove a chuck from the lathe
and put on another.

I don't know why more people don't do this. I have the Axminster super-
precision chuck, and have jaw slides permanently attached to all my jaw
sets. Winding one set out and the new one in is certainly less than 60
secs. It is more expense, but cheaper than another chuck body. Axminster
chucks do not have stop screws by the way.

John

In article ,
Derek Andrews wrote:

I have bought an extra set of screws for each jaw set, and they never
get taken out, just stored in situ in the jaws. This saves a lot of time
fiddling with screws.

Now that leads to a really good idea. The jaws would have captured
screws - no fiddling, no searching among the shavings.

What if the jaws had a keyhole (or somesuch) type mounting to the chuck
body and then a half-turn captured locking screw?

--
"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long

Hi Owen, As I suggested in the original post, one of our savants should
be able to design a small groove for a C clip to capture the bolts in
the jaw holes loose enoough to be tightened.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

snipNow that leads to a really good idea. The jaws would have captured
screws - no fiddling, no searching among the shavings.snip

And no replacing if you strip one.