I want to fasten a stem of cherry to a glass of maple prior to turning a
couple stemmed tulip glasses. Has anyone any suggestions as to the best
way to go about it? Most especially, do I need to make some sort of
mechanical joint (socket & tenon or interlocking v's come to mind as

I would go with the socket and tenon strategy: since you will have the joint
at the base of the cup. there is too small a glue surface area to rely on flat
faces, IMO

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

Anonymous wrote:
I want to fasten a stem of cherry to a glass of maple prior to turning a
couple stemmed tulip glasses. Has anyone any suggestions as to the best
way to go about it? Most especially, do I need to make some sort of
mechanical joint (socket & tenon or interlocking v's come to mind as
possibilities that might look good and add strength) or is it enough to
just use flat mating faces?

I am thinking that something with an overall ht. of 6" to 8" and a
widest diameter of about 2" might look nice. I have tons of very nice
maple but only a small stock of cherry and I want to be careful not to
waste the cherry.


Bill

I'd suggest flaring out the top of the stem to no less than 1/2" to give
an adequate glue joint. That area would have a similar profile to a golf
tee. You can gain some strength and facilitate alignment by drilling a
1/8" hole into the top of the stem, and turning a 1/8" round tenon at
the bottom of the goblet's bowl to fit in the hole. Glue it with yellow
carpenter's glue, that is stronger than the wood itself. Preventing glue
squeezeout is tricky, you only need to spread a thin layer on each
surface. If you turn the maple bowl (top) first, then glue it on while
the stock for the stem is still chucked in the lathe, you can make some
cleanup cuts with a skew or pyramid tool to make it look good. That
would be BEFORE you thin out the stem to final thickness.
Having tailstock support at the top of the goblet would be a great help
for the finishing cuts--such as a plug to fit the top rim, with a center
hole for the tailstock's point to go into. This setup will also allow
you to clamp the glue joint with the tailstock.

Ken Grunke
Coulee Region Woodturners
http://www.crwoodturner.com/



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As lathe operators, the tenon method seems best, but the recommended PVA
(wood glue) may not be the best, as it's sensitive to moisture, heat and
acid. I'd do non-water-soluble plastic types like epoxy or urethane, which
would make a "dowel" joint with a length of brazing rod possible. The less
flexible glues shouldn't be a problem if both pieces are long-grained, and
you would be free to work to whatever diameter you're comfortable with.

You need a trip up north to get some cherry.

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.09.22.22.31.50.104855@notarealserver .com...
I want to fasten a stem of cherry to a glass of maple prior to turning a
couple stemmed tulip glasses. Has anyone any suggestions as to the best
way to go about it? Most especially, do I need to make some sort of
mechanical joint (socket & tenon or interlocking v's come to mind as
possibilities that might look good and add strength) or is it enough to
just use flat mating faces?

I am thinking that something with an overall ht. of 6" to 8" and a
widest diameter of about 2" might look nice. I have tons of very nice
maple but only a small stock of cherry and I want to be careful not to
waste the cherry.

A suggestion for Bill. When you get your chainsaw, invest in a ripping
chain. It is SO MUCH EASIER on both you and the saw. Not to mention a
ripping chain goes much better through the wood than the standard crosscut
chain.

-Kevin

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.09.24.01.50.52.871615@notarealserver .com...
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 08:16:13 -0400, George wrote:


You need a trip up north to get some cherry.

Got some down here in a stack of 'free firewood'. I just didn't feel like
gloating at the time. But I do now. :-)

BTW, the guy who cut down the cherry saplings has also asked me to take
the wood from two HUGE oaks when he cuts them this fall and has offered to
let me take a cherry stump he cut last year.

He left a stump about 4' tall and 3' dia. I gotta get hold of a gas
chainsaw pretty darned soon ... all I have is a stinky electric one. Once
I do, I predict a lot of pretty bowls, pens, watches and such lie in my
near future.

Bill



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Ripping chain is for cutting on the end with timber mills of the Alaskan
type. For the kind of work we do, walking the bar into the cut - on FACE
grain - clears pretty well. Having used all three, I'll call skip chain
the compromise that clears shavings best, and is still useful for firewood
cutting.

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.10.17.15.05.27.206215@notarealserver .com...
On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 16:25:10 -0500, Kevin wrote:

A suggestion for Bill. When you get your chainsaw, invest in a ripping
chain. It is SO MUCH EASIER on both you and the saw. Not to mention a
ripping chain goes much better through the wood than the standard
crosscut
chain.

-Kevin


That's interesting. I'd never heard of such a beast. I'll be certain to
ask about it. Can you name a store where this is available? I've had
chainsaws in the past (when you lose a house to divorce, lots of other
things turn up missing, too) but never noticed anything marked "ripping"
on the replacement chain racks.

Bill

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Hello Bill,
One of several ways that hand saws can be categorized is crosscut and rip.
A crosscut saw is used to cut across the grain and is probably the most
common and a rip saw is for cutting with the grain of the wood. The same
holds true for chainsaws. The default chain with chainsaws is most probably
a crosscut. It came with my 20+ year old Stihl. I had a local shop do a
tune up on my saw as it had sat unused for almost 8 years and when finished
picked up a ripping chain.
The easiest method I have found to use a ripping chain is to lay the log on
its side.
Then at about a 45 degree angle cut into the log. I trim off a bit on each
side removing the bark and perhaps an inch or so of sapwood. Then I make a
cut about 2 iches to each side of the middle in hopes of removing all the
pit. These two cuts are NOT done all the way to the end. I then complete as
many cuts as possible leaving planks of the desired width.

A fine set of pics illustrating this technique is available on Bill's page
at:
http://www.enter.net/~ultradad/logcutting.html

Thanks,
-kevin



"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.10.17.15.05.27.206215@notarealserver .com...
On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 16:25:10 -0500, Kevin wrote:

A suggestion for Bill. When you get your chainsaw, invest in a ripping
chain. It is SO MUCH EASIER on both you and the saw. Not to mention a
ripping chain goes much better through the wood than the standard
crosscut
chain.

-Kevin


That's interesting. I'd never heard of such a beast. I'll be certain to
ask about it. Can you name a store where this is available? I've had
chainsaws in the past (when you lose a house to divorce, lots of other
things turn up missing, too) but never noticed anything marked "ripping"
on the replacement chain racks.

Bill

--
http://cannaday.us (genealogy)
http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening)
Uptimes below for the machines that created / host these sites.
11:03:00 up 2 days, 16:46, 3 users, load average: 0.01, 0.10, 0.08
10:48:00 up 164 days, 18:49, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00