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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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gluing
I want to fasten a stem of cherry to a glass of maple prior to turning a
couple stemmed tulip glasses. Has anyone any suggestions as to the best way to go about it? Most especially, do I need to make some sort of mechanical joint (socket & tenon or interlocking v's come to mind as I would go with the socket and tenon strategy: since you will have the joint at the base of the cup. there is too small a glue surface area to rely on flat faces, IMO Kip Powers Rogers, AR |
#2
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Anonymous wrote:
I want to fasten a stem of cherry to a glass of maple prior to turning a couple stemmed tulip glasses. Has anyone any suggestions as to the best way to go about it? Most especially, do I need to make some sort of mechanical joint (socket & tenon or interlocking v's come to mind as possibilities that might look good and add strength) or is it enough to just use flat mating faces? I am thinking that something with an overall ht. of 6" to 8" and a widest diameter of about 2" might look nice. I have tons of very nice maple but only a small stock of cherry and I want to be careful not to waste the cherry. Bill I'd suggest flaring out the top of the stem to no less than 1/2" to give an adequate glue joint. That area would have a similar profile to a golf tee. You can gain some strength and facilitate alignment by drilling a 1/8" hole into the top of the stem, and turning a 1/8" round tenon at the bottom of the goblet's bowl to fit in the hole. Glue it with yellow carpenter's glue, that is stronger than the wood itself. Preventing glue squeezeout is tricky, you only need to spread a thin layer on each surface. If you turn the maple bowl (top) first, then glue it on while the stock for the stem is still chucked in the lathe, you can make some cleanup cuts with a skew or pyramid tool to make it look good. That would be BEFORE you thin out the stem to final thickness. Having tailstock support at the top of the goblet would be a great help for the finishing cuts--such as a plug to fit the top rim, with a center hole for the tailstock's point to go into. This setup will also allow you to clamp the glue joint with the tailstock. Ken Grunke Coulee Region Woodturners http://www.crwoodturner.com/ -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
#3
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As lathe operators, the tenon method seems best, but the recommended PVA
(wood glue) may not be the best, as it's sensitive to moisture, heat and acid. I'd do non-water-soluble plastic types like epoxy or urethane, which would make a "dowel" joint with a length of brazing rod possible. The less flexible glues shouldn't be a problem if both pieces are long-grained, and you would be free to work to whatever diameter you're comfortable with. You need a trip up north to get some cherry. "Anonymous" wrote in message newsan.2004.09.22.22.31.50.104855@notarealserver .com... I want to fasten a stem of cherry to a glass of maple prior to turning a couple stemmed tulip glasses. Has anyone any suggestions as to the best way to go about it? Most especially, do I need to make some sort of mechanical joint (socket & tenon or interlocking v's come to mind as possibilities that might look good and add strength) or is it enough to just use flat mating faces? I am thinking that something with an overall ht. of 6" to 8" and a widest diameter of about 2" might look nice. I have tons of very nice maple but only a small stock of cherry and I want to be careful not to waste the cherry. |
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