Given that no finish is a "one size fits all" I expect that most turners have
settled on just a very few finishes that they use most of the time. I use a
50/50 mix of gloss Deft and laquer thinner about 80% of the time and then
polish with the Beal system. With this mix, I can vary the sheen as needed
depending on other factors. What are your most often used finishes? Why do I
ask? I have a program coming up for my woodturners group on finishing. We
have three presenters who each use a different method. I would like to see if
there is any general agreement among the wise men and ladies of this group.
GCS

Given that no finish is a "one size fits all" I expect that most turners
have
settled on just a very few finishes that they use most of the time. I use a
50/50 mix of gloss Deft and laquer thinner about 80% of the time and then
polish with the Beal system. With this mix, I can vary the sheen as needed
depending on other factors. What are your most often used finishes? Why do I
ask? I have a program coming up for my woodturners group on finishing. We
have three presenters who each use a different method. I would like to see if
there is any general agreement among the wise men and ladies of this group.
GCS
BRBR

I do as you do most of the time. Occasionally I'll use Watco danish oil if I
want the oil look, and if the piece is likely to come into contact with water
I'll use either Minwax wipe-on poly or Lee Valley Polymerized Tung Oil Sealer,
several coats.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

I use one of 2 finishes for 90% of may work - the other 10% is shellac

60% of the time, I use pure tung oil to seal and the beall buffing system to
finish - spectacular results!
30% of the time, I use Waterlox - about 4 coats - sealed, protecteed and
impervious to the elements!

Why make it more difficult?

Ray

PS: The shellac finish is probably the most interactive and the most
pleasing to apply and work. The results can be quite exceptional if you
want to take the time to do it properly. Also, the shellac finish provides
an opportunity to make the piece look antique if that is a look you want to
acheive.



"RESPITE95" wrote in message
...
Given that no finish is a "one size fits all" I expect that most turners
have
settled on just a very few finishes that they use most of the time. I use
a
50/50 mix of gloss Deft and laquer thinner about 80% of the time and then
polish with the Beal system. With this mix, I can vary the sheen as
needed
depending on other factors. What are your most often used finishes? Why
do I
ask? I have a program coming up for my woodturners group on finishing.
We
have three presenters who each use a different method. I would like to
see if
there is any general agreement among the wise men and ladies of this
group.
GCS

I have a very simple finishing process for turned items. Normally, I start
power sanding (if the item allows) with 80 or 100 grit, sometimes 120,
depending on the wood and the surface left by the tool. Then 180, 320 and
finally 400 grit. Make absolutely sure each sanding step removes the
scratches left by the previous grit. As another turner once said, "Put the
polish on the wood."

I think a lot of finishes fall short simply because of inadequate or
improper sanding. Sanding is probably the most important step in the
process. Most everyone I know hates to sand, including me. But, when you
consider how important sanding is to the appearance of the finished piece,
give this step the attention it deserves. I can't stress this enough. I
have seen many absolutely beautifully shaped pieces that just didn't "make
it" because they were not sanded and finished properly. This sanding step
is where you "make it" or "break it". Sand too little and the finish will
never look right no matter what you use. Sand too much and you ruin the
piece. It is very easy to round over edges and obliterate crisp details
when you sand. This can absolutely ruin the appearance of a piece.

If the piece doesn't look good without a finish, it's not going to be
miraculously rescued by the finish you put on. Inspect the piece under a
good light. All sanding scratches and tool marks should be gone. The piece
should be absolutely smooth and the curves should flow smoothly. Curves
should have no flat spots. The piece should "feel good" in your hands.
Sometimes you can feel surface imperfections that you don't see.

If you have sanded a piece properly, the choice of finish becomes less
important. For a finish, I use Minwax Polyurethane Gloss or semi gloss.
The brush-on version. I'm sure other varnishes or oils would work just as
well. I slop it on heavily with a brush and let it soak into the wood,
replenishing any dry spots. Depending on the wood, you might want to thin
the first coat. After about 10 minutes, I wipe off the excess. If the
piece is still mounted, I run the lathe at a medium speed and burnish the
finish in with a pad made from an old t-shirt. The heat generated speeds
the drying process. I let it dry overnight.

On some woods, just one coat is sufficient to give a very nice low-gloss
finish. If further coats are desired, I apply additional coats after a
light buffing between coats with 0000 steel wood or a fine Scotch-Brite pad.
Nothing could be simpler........except maybe no finish at all!

Barry



"RESPITE95" wrote in message
...
Given that no finish is a "one size fits all" I expect that most turners
have
settled on just a very few finishes that they use most of the time. I use
a
50/50 mix of gloss Deft and laquer thinner about 80% of the time and then
polish with the Beal system. With this mix, I can vary the sheen as
needed
depending on other factors. What are your most often used finishes? Why
do I
ask? I have a program coming up for my woodturners group on finishing.
We
have three presenters who each use a different method. I would like to
see if
there is any general agreement among the wise men and ladies of this
group.
GCS

"Jim Gott" wrote in message


I'll use . . . Lee Valley Polymerized Tung Oil Sealer,
several coats.

What is the appearance of that, Jim? Is it fairly glossy, or more satin?
And have you tried one of the polymerized tung oils, not the sealer?

Max

I'll use . . . Lee Valley Polymerized Tung Oil Sealer,
several coats.

What is the appearance of that, Jim? Is it fairly glossy, or more satin?
And have you tried one of the polymerized tung oils, not the sealer?

Max BRBR

Max,
It's semi-matte unless you buff it to a higher gloss, which is the reason I use
it rather than the polymerized tung oils that Lee Valley has. They both have
too much gloss for my taste. The sealer gives me more options on how much
gloss (or none at all) that I want.

Jim Gott
San Jose, CA
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

"Jim Gott" wrote in message

It's semi-matte unless you buff it to a higher gloss, which is the reason
I use
it rather than the polymerized tung oils that Lee Valley has. They both
have
too much gloss for my taste. The sealer gives me more options on how much
gloss (or none at all) that I want.

One other question, Jim--how many coats do you typically apply? Sorry to be
bothersome on this, but I've just acquired a can of the stuff, along with a
can of the mid-level solids polymerized tung oil (both intended for use on
the interior bulkheads and woodwork of my boat) and was wondering if it
would be an acceptable finish on turnings. I'll give it a try. Thanks much
for the info.

Max

"RESPITE95" wrote in message
...
Given that no finish is a "one size fits all" I expect that most turners
have
settled on just a very few finishes that they use most of the time. I use
a
50/50 mix of gloss Deft and laquer thinner about 80% of the time and then
polish with the Beal system. With this mix, I can vary the sheen as
needed
depending on other factors. What are your most often used finishes? Why
do I
ask? I have a program coming up for my woodturners group on finishing.
We
have three presenters who each use a different method. I would like to
see if
there is any general agreement among the wise men and ladies of this
group.
GCS

I use a couple of finishes. They are pure tung oil, walnut oil, and
shellac. The shellac I will use either by itself, or mixed with oil to make
a friction polish. My reasons for using these finishes a
1. the low odor
2. the ease of application
3. the repairability

I think you'll find a lot of personal preferences in finishing, depending on
what is important to you.

Thanks to all who responded to my request. This was helpful and I have copied
each suggestion to pass along to my group members to jog their thinking.
GCS

"Jim Gott" wrote in message

It's semi-matte unless you buff it to a higher gloss, which is the reason
I use
it rather than the polymerized tung oils that Lee Valley has. They both
have
too much gloss for my taste. The sealer gives me more options on how much
gloss (or none at all) that I want.

One other question, Jim--how many coats do you typically apply? Sorry to be
bothersome on this, but I've just acquired a can of the stuff, along with a
can of the mid-level solids polymerized tung oil (both intended for use on
the interior bulkheads and woodwork of my boat) and was wondering if it
would be an acceptable finish on turnings. I'll give it a try. Thanks much
for the info.
BRBR

I usually apply at least 3 coats, 24 hours apart.
Sorry for the delay in answering, but I haven't checked in for a while.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA