OK, I feel really stupid asking this, but please, cut a newbee a break. I've
tried twice with two different parting tools to make a honey dipper, and it
still comes out looking awkward. After the first one, I realized my parting
tool was a bit wide, about 3/16 of an inch. So I tried one a little thinner.
I'm trying to get five cuts separated by the width of the tool in about
1-1/2 inches. So far, I've only gotten 4 cuts. Should I be looking for a
parting tool that's thinner yet?


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.737 / Virus Database: 491 - Release Date: 8/11/2004

In article OKRWc.8212$VY.7200@trndny09,
"Alan Van Art" wrote:

OK, I feel really stupid asking this, but please, cut a newbee a break. I've
tried twice with two different parting tools to make a honey dipper, and it
still comes out looking awkward. After the first one, I realized my parting
tool was a bit wide, about 3/16 of an inch. So I tried one a little thinner.
I'm trying to get five cuts separated by the width of the tool in about
1-1/2 inches. So far, I've only gotten 4 cuts. Should I be looking for a
parting tool that's thinner yet?


Hi Alan,

You have a couple of options, You could get one of the 1/16" parting
tools, or you could just turn a series of beads, and forget parting
tools all together.

--
Dan Kozar



remove NOSPAM

Alan,
I agree with Dan on turning a series of beads. Just cut between them as
deep as you can with the skew tip and the dippers will be fine.

Ruth and the ? (hmmmm)

--
www.torne-lignum.com
"Dan Kozar" wrote in message
...
In article OKRWc.8212$VY.7200@trndny09,
"Alan Van Art" wrote:

OK, I feel really stupid asking this, but please, cut a newbee a break.
I've
tried twice with two different parting tools to make a honey dipper, and
it
still comes out looking awkward. After the first one, I realized my
parting
tool was a bit wide, about 3/16 of an inch. So I tried one a little
thinner.
I'm trying to get five cuts separated by the width of the tool in about
1-1/2 inches. So far, I've only gotten 4 cuts. Should I be looking for a
parting tool that's thinner yet?


Hi Alan,

You have a couple of options, You could get one of the 1/16" parting
tools, or you could just turn a series of beads, and forget parting
tools all together.

--
Dan Kozar



remove NOSPAM

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I see how that could obtain the
same result. How would you turn the flat between the beads?

I also wanted to ask you, Dan... I see your email address is at PSU,
do you live in or near State College? I'm in Burnham (next to
Lewistown). Is there an active group of woodturners around this area?
I was looking for a local AAW chapter, but the closest I could come
was Harrisburg. I've been dying to get some semi-formal instruction,
but have been unable to 'turn' anything up in our remote corner of the
country.

Dan Kozar wrote in message ...
In article OKRWc.8212$VY.7200@trndny09,
"Alan Van Art" wrote:

OK, I feel really stupid asking this, but please, cut a newbee a break. I've
tried twice with two different parting tools to make a honey dipper, and it
still comes out looking awkward. After the first one, I realized my parting
tool was a bit wide, about 3/16 of an inch. So I tried one a little thinner.
I'm trying to get five cuts separated by the width of the tool in about
1-1/2 inches. So far, I've only gotten 4 cuts. Should I be looking for a
parting tool that's thinner yet?


Hi Alan,

You have a couple of options, You could get one of the 1/16" parting
tools, or you could just turn a series of beads, and forget parting
tools all together.

If you want flat, you can modify your parting tool by filing a "V" on the
end, thereby making it capable of a cleaner cut. See the Sorby 1/16"
parting tool for an example. The points really run in well. Easier if you
have one of the old cheapie carbon steel types to do the filing and honing.

"Alan Van Art" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I see how that could obtain the
same result. How would you turn the flat between the beads?

=

"Alan Van Art" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I see how that could obtain the
same result. How would you turn the flat between the beads?

You really don't need flats between the beads to hold or deliver honey.
The beads just need to be well-defined and deep.

If you still want to go with a parting tool and get 5 cuts in 1-1/2", with
spaces between cuts equal to the cut, you will need a parting tool no wider
than 1/8".

Michael Latcha - at home in Redford, MI

"Alan Van Art" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I see how that could obtain the
same result. How would you turn the flat between the beads?

You really don't need flats between the beads to hold or deliver honey.
The beads just need to be well-defined and deep.

If you still want to go with a parting tool and get 5 cuts in 1-1/2", with
spaces between cuts equal to the cut, you will need a parting tool no wider
than 1/8".

Michael Latcha - at home in Redford, MI

I like the idea of the beads more than the slots. All the commercial
honey dippers have slots and the beads would be more suggestive of
something different and hand made, methinks. For a new turner, a three
point tool is the easiest way to go.
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/three.shtml
--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://www.aroundthewoods.com

Hi Art,
You could contact Bob Rosand, a nationally known turner who lives in
Buckhorn (outside Bloomsburg). They have a very small club but I'm not sure
if they meet anymore.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/

"Alan Van Art" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I see how that could obtain the
same result. How would you turn the flat between the beads?

I also wanted to ask you, Dan... I see your email address is at PSU,
do you live in or near State College? I'm in Burnham (next to
Lewistown). Is there an active group of woodturners around this area?
I was looking for a local AAW chapter, but the closest I could come
was Harrisburg. I've been dying to get some semi-formal instruction,
but have been unable to 'turn' anything up in our remote corner of the
country.

Dan Kozar wrote in message
...
In article OKRWc.8212$VY.7200@trndny09,
"Alan Van Art" wrote:

OK, I feel really stupid asking this, but please, cut a newbee a
break. I've
tried twice with two different parting tools to make a honey dipper,
and it
still comes out looking awkward. After the first one, I realized my
parting
tool was a bit wide, about 3/16 of an inch. So I tried one a little
thinner.
I'm trying to get five cuts separated by the width of the tool in
about
1-1/2 inches. So far, I've only gotten 4 cuts. Should I be looking for
a
parting tool that's thinner yet?


Hi Alan,

You have a couple of options, You could get one of the 1/16" parting
tools, or you could just turn a series of beads, and forget parting
tools all together.

Michael Latcha wrote:
You really don't need flats between the beads to hold or deliver honey.
The beads just need to be well-defined and deep.

And the beads don't need to be semicircles either. I think parabolic
shaped beads (deeper than they are wide) would look good and be very
functional.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
Wedding Favors ~ Artisan Crafted Gifts ~ One-of-a-Kind Woodturning

Alan Van Art wrote:
I'm trying to get five cuts separated by the width of the tool in about
1-1/2 inches. So far, I've only gotten 4 cuts. Should I be looking for a
parting tool that's thinner yet?

I use a hacksaw blade to make the grooves between the beads. I
tried using a beading tool, even made some thinner ones to narrow
the grooves, but a hacksaw blade seems to work best and if you buy
them by the 100 pack they're dirt cheap.

Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/

Greetings,

How do you use them?
Do you hold one in your bare hands on the top of the turning?
Do you grind one end to look like a parting tool and use it as such?

Sincerely,
Bill Thomas

dave in fairfax wrote:
Alan Van Art wrote:

I'm trying to get five cuts separated by the width of the tool in about
1-1/2 inches. So far, I've only gotten 4 cuts. Should I be looking for a
parting tool that's thinner yet?


I use a hacksaw blade to make the grooves between the beads. I
tried using a beading tool, even made some thinner ones to narrow
the grooves, but a hacksaw blade seems to work best and if you buy
them by the 100 pack they're dirt cheap.

Dave in Fairfax

Bill Thomas wrote:
How do you use them?
Do you hold one in your bare hands on the top of the turning?
Do you grind one end to look like a parting tool and use it as such?

Hold the blade upside down resting on the toolrest with the teeth
pointing back toward you. Hold the cloe end of the blade between
finger and thumb and cut with the far end of the blade. As it
heats and dulls, feed more of the blade toward the wood. Be
careful to avoid binding due to sideways motion along the
toolrest. Also be careful to not grip the teeth of the blade.
There is a chance that the blade will be pulled out of your
fingers. If you are holding it properly, that's annoying, but not
dangerous. Teh rotation will take the blade and throw it away
from you. DON'T cut along the top of the wood, a catch in that
position will throw the blade AT you. Again, be careful.
Hope that helps,
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/

I envision it to be much like a metal lathe tool bit with the end
properly ground and protrudng just enough from two strips of wood
fashioned to make a handle. Wear your face shield!

Foolish thought perhaps but why not just try using a hacksaw or better
yet a backsaw (because it is more rigid), with the lathe running at the
slowest speed?

Peace ~ Sir Edgar
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F 8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8

dave in fairfax wrote:
Bill Thomas wrote:

How do you use them?
Do you hold one in your bare hands on the top of the turning?
Do you grind one end to look like a parting tool and use it as such?


Hold the blade upside down resting on the toolrest with the teeth
pointing back toward you. Hold the cloe end of the blade between
finger and thumb and cut with the far end of the blade. As it
heats and dulls, feed more of the blade toward the wood. Be
careful to avoid binding due to sideways motion along the
toolrest. Also be careful to not grip the teeth of the blade.
There is a chance that the blade will be pulled out of your
fingers. If you are holding it properly, that's annoying, but not
dangerous. Teh rotation will take the blade and throw it away
from you. DON'T cut along the top of the wood, a catch in that
position will throw the blade AT you. Again, be careful.
Hope that helps,
Dave in Fairfax

Greetings,

Thanks for the reply. How many kerf widths do you make the slots.
Your description makes it sound like one kerf per slot. This seems
reasonable, but I want to make sure.

Sincerely,
Bill Thomas

Bill Thomas wrote:
Thanks for the reply. How many kerf widths do you make the slots.
Your description makes it sound like one kerf per slot. This seems
reasonable, but I want to make sure.

I try to make a single kerf width between the beeads. Since the
avg dipper has 5-7 beads, the corresponding number of kerfs holds
a fair amount of honey. Which works out well, 'cause I love
honey.

Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/

Yesterday I wrote in a post:

"I envision it to be much like a metal lathe tool bit with the end
properly ground and protrudng just enough from two strips of wood
fashioned to make a handle. Wear your face shield!"

Today I had to try it. I ground the end of a hacksaw blade like a
parting tool. Then I made a handle out of two strips of wood and bolted
them together with the hacksaw blade between them like a sandwich, and
just the tip of the blade exposed. When I made a shallow groove I moved
the blade out further as it now had support on the sides. I repeated
this until I had the desired groove depth. It was rather "catchy" but it
worked. This surprised me for I am new at turning and most of the time
my work at the present is trial and error, learning as I go.

Maybe you will want to give it a try.

Peace ~ Sir Edgar
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F 8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8

"dave in fairfax" wrote in message
...
Alan Van Art wrote:
I'm trying to get five cuts separated by the width of the tool in about
1-1/2 inches. So far, I've only gotten 4 cuts. Should I be looking for a
parting tool that's thinner yet?

I use a hacksaw blade to make the grooves between the beads. I
tried using a beading tool, even made some thinner ones to narrow
the grooves, but a hacksaw blade seems to work best and if you buy
them by the 100 pack they're dirt cheap.
====================================
Instead of a hacksaw blade, I prefer a blade for a reciprocating saw.
They're more rigid, and the high speed steel ones can stand the high heat of
parting. I grind them in the Cris Stott style, and either use a pair of
wooden handles epoxyed onto the blade or wrap it in duct tape to give it
"grip" and to protect the hands. They're not as cheap initially as hacksaw
blades, but since they can be sharpened llike regular parting tools, they
last a long time.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX