I've got one of the curved necked hollowing tools that I would describe
more as a fancy curved necked scraper by sorby that I've never been
satisfied with.

I've heard other hollowing tools mentioned from time to time but I'm not
sure if any of them are any good either.

any suggestions?

Google search will produce the Mangiamelli treatise. Some now have
planer-like capability, sort of a ring tool with a depth-limiter.
Learning curve a bit different there than simple scrape, though both will
certainly work. Remember, downhill rule still gives best results when
cutting.

I use a pointy gouge to do the initial and as much of the interior as the
design will permit, size depending on the neck opening. This makes waste
removal easier, as shavings run down the flute of the gouge. Take a look at
Wood Central's grind library for David Ellsworth's detail gouge grind.
Looks similar to what I've settled on. The continuous curve, versus bevel,
makes it possible to take as light or heavy a shaving as you care to without
an abrupt bevel-jumping grab. Even the scrapers work better once there's
room in there so they don't jam.

Narrow bits for gross work and broad scrapers for smoothing - I've the big
Sorby "Hooker" tool and the Stewart small - seem a good way to go if you
don't have a ring. They produce a worse surface, but up/downhill make less
difference in jamming and grabbing.

"william kossack" wrote in message
news:9HSHc.54410$IQ4.51811@attbi_s02...
I've got one of the curved necked hollowing tools that I would describe
more as a fancy curved necked scraper by sorby that I've never been
satisfied with.

I've heard other hollowing tools mentioned from time to time but I'm not
sure if any of them are any good either.

any suggestions?

I think you are referring to the Sorby tool that has a sort of swiveling
pointy tip held on by a Allen screw with a bent shank. I don't like mine
much either. It works well only on very small turnings. I tend to use
mine only where I don't have the room for a better tool.

I think you might be more satisfied with Sorby's multi-tip hollowing tool.
Try it with the little half-round 3/16" cutting tool tip. I think you will
get much better results. I consider this to be sort of an entry-level
hollowing tool. Do as much hollowing as you can with a gouge, then switch
to the hollowing tool.

As your bowls and vessels get larger and deeper, you will need to get more
sophisticated with the tools that you use. You're on the right track.
Start simple and work up, as your skills improve.

Barry


"william kossack" wrote in message
news:9HSHc.54410$IQ4.51811@attbi_s02...
I've got one of the curved necked hollowing tools that I would describe
more as a fancy curved necked scraper by sorby that I've never been
satisfied with.

I've heard other hollowing tools mentioned from time to time but I'm not
sure if any of them are any good either.

any suggestions?

Oops! The tool has the bent shank, not the Allen screw! Ugh! Need more
coffee...............Barry


"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
. ..
I think you are referring to the Sorby tool that has a sort of swiveling
pointy tip held on by a Allen screw with a bent shank. I don't like mine
much either. It works well only on very small turnings. I tend to use
mine only where I don't have the room for a better tool.

I think you might be more satisfied with Sorby's multi-tip hollowing tool.
Try it with the little half-round 3/16" cutting tool tip. I think you
will
get much better results. I consider this to be sort of an entry-level
hollowing tool. Do as much hollowing as you can with a gouge, then switch
to the hollowing tool.

As your bowls and vessels get larger and deeper, you will need to get more
sophisticated with the tools that you use. You're on the right track.
Start simple and work up, as your skills improve.

Barry


"william kossack" wrote in message
news:9HSHc.54410$IQ4.51811@attbi_s02...
I've got one of the curved necked hollowing tools that I would describe
more as a fancy curved necked scraper by sorby that I've never been
satisfied with.

I've heard other hollowing tools mentioned from time to time but I'm not
sure if any of them are any good either.

any suggestions?

"Jim Gott" wrote in message
...

I've got one of the curved necked hollowing tools that I would describe
more as a fancy curved necked scraper by sorby that I've never been
satisfied with.

I've heard other hollowing tools mentioned from time to time but I'm not
sure if any of them are any good either.

any suggestions?
BRBR


SNIP.......
This is where Sorby
goes wrong and where Stewart and John Jordan succeed. I use the Stewart
hooker
tool with great success and am looking forward to getting a Jordan soon.
They
both have 3/4" shafts so they'll go into your existing handle. The Stewart
hooker neck can be bought at Craft Supplies, and the Jordan tools can be
found
at Stubbylathe.com.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA


I also use the Stewart and am curious as to what the Jordan has that the
Stewart doesn't Jim?

M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
ô¿ô
~

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
SNIP
I use a pointy gouge to do the initial and as much of the interior as the
design will permit, size depending on the neck opening.
=================================
George,
I've seen your references several times to "pointy gouge" and "forged
pattern" gouges. How are these different from the average spindle or bowl
gouges, or are they just a regrind of one of these?
TIA

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

The picture on Wood Central I referenced is a pretty good example of a
pointy gouge. Essentially, mine are a detail gouge with a point, and very
long ground-back wings, and some cheap spindle (cylindrical) gouges with a
slightly milder point. No bevel to them, just a carving-type curve to the
edge which allows me to choose my depth of cut by rolling along until I'm
grabbing as much as I care.

You can see the pointy detail gouge in use at
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...ing_inside.htm hogging out on a
flat bowl. When cutting end grain it's capable of some incredibly fast
work, as long as I can get the toolrest close, and with the point, it's not
necessary to bore a hole to get piece started. You push the point in, roll
left and sweep out and up toward the rim, then, in one uninterrupted move,
roll across the point to the right edge, sweeping down and in.

Forged gouges are what gouges used to be.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a... rrency=2&SID=
shows the two big ones I've been able to talk the family into getting me,
and the small one I still want to get. You can see how I rub the bevel
(yep, Arch, it rubs) at
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...20Pictures.htm

The advantage to the forged style is the uniform thickness. You can grind
the same bevel angle all the way across, making it capable of working like a
curved skew. (some people grind their skews convex to work like a gouge, so
why not?) Where it truly excels is in making the turn into the bottom of
the bowl. You can dip the nose as you come across that part where you
always tear out, and keep a continuous shearing action, rather than picking
up and tearing the uphill sections.
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...oth%20Four.htm The bowl I'm
cutting is yellow birch with a lot of grain reversals, and it almost shone
from the gouge.


Check Darrell's site http://www.aroundthewoods.com/roughing.shtml to see an
Oland tool - basically a bigass pointy gouge - at work in the hand of a
production turner.

"Ken Moon" wrote in message
k.net...
George,
I've seen your references several times to "pointy gouge" and "forged
pattern" gouges. How are these different from the average spindle or bowl
gouges, or are they just a regrind of one of these?
TIA

I also use the Stewart and am curious as to what the Jordan has that the
Stewart doesn't Jim?

M.J. Orr BRBR

The Jordan tool has the cutting tip coming right out of the end of the steel
instead of having a round disk and a nut. This lets you get thru a much smaller
opening because it's more streamlined. Take a look at Stubbylathe.com and
you'll see what I'm talking about.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

"Jim Gott" wrote in message
...

I also use the Stewart and am curious as to what the Jordan has that the
Stewart doesn't Jim?

M.J. Orr BRBR

The Jordan tool has the cutting tip coming right out of the end of the
steel
instead of having a round disk and a nut. This lets you get thru a much
smaller
opening because it's more streamlined. Take a look at Stubbylathe.com and
you'll see what I'm talking about.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

I see what you mean....thanks Jim

--


M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
ô¿ô
~

You might want to contact Rev. Darrell Feltmate if it is "hallowing" tools
you are interested in! *G* His web site: http://www.aroundthewoods.com/
contains tips on how to make various similar tools.

Leif
"william kossack" wrote in message
news:9HSHc.54410$IQ4.51811@attbi_s02...
I've got one of the curved necked hollowing tools that I would describe
more as a fancy curved necked scraper by sorby that I've never been
satisfied with.

I've heard other hollowing tools mentioned from time to time but I'm not
sure if any of them are any good either.

any suggestions?

Leif I was waiting for somebody to catch that and comment on it. Your
name came to mind as a possible respondant. VBG!

Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
You might want to contact Rev. Darrell Feltmate if it is "hallowing" tools
you are interested in! *G* His web site: http://www.aroundthewoods.com/
contains tips on how to make various similar tools.

Leif
"william kossack" wrote in message
news:9HSHc.54410$IQ4.51811@attbi_s02...

I've got one of the curved necked hollowing tools that I would describe
more as a fancy curved necked scraper by sorby that I've never been
satisfied with.

I've heard other hollowing tools mentioned from time to time but I'm not
sure if any of them are any good either.

any suggestions?

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
The picture on Wood Central I referenced is a pretty good example of a
pointy gouge. Essentially, mine are a detail gouge with a point, and very
long ground-back wings, and some cheap spindle (cylindrical) gouges with a
slightly milder point. No bevel to them, just a carving-type curve to the
edge which allows me to choose my depth of cut by rolling along until I'm
grabbing as much as I care.

You can see the pointy detail gouge in use at
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...ing_inside.htm hogging out on
a
flat bowl. When cutting end grain it's capable of some incredibly fast
work, as long as I can get the toolrest close, and with the point, it's
not
necessary to bore a hole to get piece started. You push the point in,
roll
left and sweep out and up toward the rim, then, in one uninterrupted move,
roll across the point to the right edge, sweeping down and in.

Forged gouges are what gouges used to be.


http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a... rrency=2&SID=
shows the two big ones I've been able to talk the family into getting me,
and the small one I still want to get. You can see how I rub the bevel
(yep, Arch, it rubs) at
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...20Pictures.htm

The advantage to the forged style is the uniform thickness. You can grind
the same bevel angle all the way across, making it capable of working like
a
curved skew. (some people grind their skews convex to work like a gouge,
so
why not?) Where it truly excels is in making the turn into the bottom of
the bowl. You can dip the nose as you come across that part where you
always tear out, and keep a continuous shearing action, rather than
picking
up and tearing the uphill sections.
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...oth%20Four.htm The bowl I'm
cutting is yellow birch with a lot of grain reversals, and it almost shone
from the gouge.


Check Darrell's site http://www.aroundthewoods.com/roughing.shtml to see
an
Oland tool - basically a bigass pointy gouge - at work in the hand of a
production turner.
===============================
George,
Thanks for the explanation and the links. Seems that I have a couple of my
own "pointy gouges", just that I call them fingernail spindle gouges. I use
them in much the same fashion as you describe. The convex bevel comes from
not using a jig to grind. I don't have any of the forged gouges, but I can
see where they could be a good addition to my "arsenal". Now I'll have my
own translation to your posts. {:-)

I'm not really into making my own tools at this point

Leif Thorvaldson wrote:

You might want to contact Rev. Darrell Feltmate if it is "hallowing" tools
you are interested in! *G* His web site: http://www.aroundthewoods.com/
contains tips on how to make various similar tools.

Leif
"william kossack" wrote in message
news:9HSHc.54410$IQ4.51811@attbi_s02...


I've got one of the curved necked hollowing tools that I would describe
more as a fancy curved necked scraper by sorby that I've never been
satisfied with.

I've heard other hollowing tools mentioned from time to time but I'm not
sure if any of them are any good either.

any suggestions?

William
Just a thought or two here on making your own tools. As you say, at this
point you are not into making your own. Makes sense to me. I like the
thought of making the tool that makes the piece, but not everyone likes
to make tools. However, for hollowing the tools are easy. If you do
general wood working you have all the skills. Basically you need an
Oland tool with a straight tip and one going off at 45 degrees. Both
should use a 3/16" cutting tip. If you find that you do not like
hollowing, you are only out a few dollars. Recently I made myself a pair
of 5/8" shaft, 3/16" cutting tip hollowing tools with arm brace handles
for less than C$20.00 total. Quite the savings.
--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://www.aroundthewoods.com