After following all these comments on LDD decided to do some
of my own testing on it. Couldn't locate any of the Costco
LDD here in my area so checked through the rack at the local
store for a clear non-died or perfumed LDD. Settled on trying
out Ivory.

I have several Cherry blanks approx 1100 - 1500 grams 2"-3"x14
that I applied 4-5 brushed on applications to all surfaces and
put in a couple paper bags a month ago and tossed the bag
under the bed in the house. Pulled them out yesterday and
each blank has lost approx. 15 grams of weight and no cracking
found.

2nd test group is several Cherry blanks about the same size
with 4-5 brushed on applications to the ends only then I
capped the ends with some siran wrap and a rubber bands.
Placed on drying rack in garage that for the last month has
averaged 20 degree lows and 50 degree highs. (hot dogger
propane heater on other side of garage) no cracks yet and only
about 5-10 grams weight loss.

3rd test group is a couple walnut blanks where the log was
ripped to 3 sections about 4-5" thick and 15x15. Applied
about 8 applications to all surfaces over a 3 day period and
set on the drying rack. The center section now has a crack
through the heart end to end. Side pieces show minor cracking
at ends.

4th test group is several small Cherry blanks 150 - 250 grams
coated with 4 applications and fully wrapped in siran wrap and
put on drying rack. Very little weight differences a couple
have even gained weight, you can also feel the moisture
through the wrapping.

5th test group same size pieces of Cherry as group 1. Tossed
these into a tub of LDD that sits on the garage floor. Pulled
the lid yesterday it is all frozen solid... LOL. Believe the
LDD has pulled color from the Cherry because it is rather red
- purple colored now. Guess these will sit till spring when
they thaw out and I can see what happens to them.

Razz

If I can't screw it down! I can always screw it up!

Razz wrote in message ...
After following all these comments on LDD decided to do some
of my own testing on it. Couldn't locate any of the Costco
LDD here in my area so checked through the rack at the local
store for a clear non-died or perfumed LDD. Settled on trying
out Ivory.

I have several Cherry blanks approx 1100 - 1500 grams 2"-3"x14
that I applied 4-5 brushed on applications to all surfaces and
put in a couple paper bags a month ago and tossed the bag
under the bed in the house. Pulled them out yesterday and
each blank has lost approx. 15 grams of weight and no cracking
found.

2nd test group is several Cherry blanks about the same size
with 4-5 brushed on applications to the ends only then I
capped the ends with some siran wrap and a rubber bands.
Placed on drying rack in garage that for the last month has
averaged 20 degree lows and 50 degree highs. (hot dogger
propane heater on other side of garage) no cracks yet and only
about 5-10 grams weight loss.

3rd test group is a couple walnut blanks where the log was
ripped to 3 sections about 4-5" thick and 15x15. Applied
about 8 applications to all surfaces over a 3 day period and
set on the drying rack. The center section now has a crack
through the heart end to end. Side pieces show minor cracking
at ends.

4th test group is several small Cherry blanks 150 - 250 grams
coated with 4 applications and fully wrapped in siran wrap and
put on drying rack. Very little weight differences a couple
have even gained weight, you can also feel the moisture
through the wrapping.

5th test group same size pieces of Cherry as group 1. Tossed
these into a tub of LDD that sits on the garage floor. Pulled
the lid yesterday it is all frozen solid... LOL. Believe the
LDD has pulled color from the Cherry because it is rather red
- purple colored now. Guess these will sit till spring when
they thaw out and I can see what happens to them.

Razz

If I can't screw it down! I can always screw it up!


What was the mixture LDD/water that you used in the "brush on" test?

Bob Edwards San Antonio

(Bob Edwards) wrote in
m:

Razz wrote in message
...
After following all these comments on LDD decided to do
some of my own testing on it. Couldn't locate any of the
Costco LDD here in my area so checked through the rack at
the local store for a clear non-died or perfumed LDD.
Settled on trying out Ivory.


If I can't screw it down! I can always screw it up!


What was the mixture LDD/water that you used in the "brush
on" test?

Bob Edwards San Antonio


50/50 mix

What was the mixture LDD/water that you used in the "brush
on" test?

50/50 mix

That is the suggested mix but Leif's procedure calls for immersing the
pieces in LDD.

"Razz" wrote in message
...
After following all these comments on LDD decided to do some
of my own testing on it. Couldn't locate any of the Costco
LDD here in my area so checked through the rack at the local
store for a clear non-died or perfumed LDD. Settled on trying
out Ivory.
snipped

What have you done with your test groups now? Still letting them sit and
going to record the changes again later or are you working them?


5th test group same size pieces of Cherry as group 1. Tossed
these into a tub of LDD that sits on the garage floor. Pulled
the lid yesterday it is all frozen solid... LOL. Believe the
LDD has pulled color from the Cherry because it is rather red
- purple colored now. Guess these will sit till spring when
they thaw out and I can see what happens to them.


Now you're testing the effects of freezing AND the LDD. You won't know
which is causing what. That group is dead for testing now. Please keep us
informed of future results and procedures as you get them.


- Andrew

It would have been nice to include a couple of controls--handled the
same as the others other than the LDD. Maybe painted with water or left
dry.

Razz wrote:

After following all these comments on LDD decided to do some
of my own testing on it. Couldn't locate any of the Costco
LDD here in my area so checked through the rack at the local
store for a clear non-died or perfumed LDD. Settled on trying
out Ivory.

I have several Cherry blanks approx 1100 - 1500 grams 2"-3"x14
that I applied 4-5 brushed on applications to all surfaces and
put in a couple paper bags a month ago and tossed the bag
under the bed in the house. Pulled them out yesterday and
each blank has lost approx. 15 grams of weight and no cracking
found.

2nd test group is several Cherry blanks about the same size
with 4-5 brushed on applications to the ends only then I
capped the ends with some siran wrap and a rubber bands.
Placed on drying rack in garage that for the last month has
averaged 20 degree lows and 50 degree highs. (hot dogger
propane heater on other side of garage) no cracks yet and only
about 5-10 grams weight loss.

3rd test group is a couple walnut blanks where the log was
ripped to 3 sections about 4-5" thick and 15x15. Applied
about 8 applications to all surfaces over a 3 day period and
set on the drying rack. The center section now has a crack
through the heart end to end. Side pieces show minor cracking
at ends.

4th test group is several small Cherry blanks 150 - 250 grams
coated with 4 applications and fully wrapped in siran wrap and
put on drying rack. Very little weight differences a couple
have even gained weight, you can also feel the moisture
through the wrapping.

5th test group same size pieces of Cherry as group 1. Tossed
these into a tub of LDD that sits on the garage floor. Pulled
the lid yesterday it is all frozen solid... LOL. Believe the
LDD has pulled color from the Cherry because it is rather red
- purple colored now. Guess these will sit till spring when
they thaw out and I can see what happens to them.

Razz

If I can't screw it down! I can always screw it up!

--

Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
............................................
My life is based on a true story.


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"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in
:

Good deal, Razz! As stated above there are a few gaps in
the method, but at least someone is trying to develop some
new methods. I must admit that I have tried the same
method, but didn't brush on nearly as many coats as you
did. Needless to say, it may have delayed the cracking a
bit, but crack they did. Since that time, I have
recommended using the usual endcote/endseal for longer term
storage of green wood that you can't get immediately to.


I have looked at doing some anchorseal but because of expense
and the fact I'm not usually there as the trees are felled, I've
held off. I'm just getting back into turning after about a 10
year break, so working all green woods right now. From what
I've read the anchorseal needs to be applied immediately after
cutting and their website statistics say it only increases
usable wood 6 - 9% if done right away. Doesn't sound like very
good odds for the expense. SWMBO's sister and brother in-law
have a tree service, so I'm getting choice from about a half -
acre of 10' tree trunks that haven't been split yet. He is
setting aside burls and crotches for me to pick up, since they
are more trouble than they are worth for fire wood splitting, he
says... fine with me set em aside I'll gladly take em off his
hands.

Razz

If I can't screw it down! I can always screw it up!

Another alternative is to leave the wood in logs as long (length) as
possible. The ends may crack but those can be cut off to expose uncracked
wood further in. With a tree service relative in the family, those burls
and crotches sound very good to me!

Leif
"Razz" wrote in message
...
"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in
:

Good deal, Razz! As stated above there are a few gaps in
the method, but at least someone is trying to develop some
new methods. I must admit that I have tried the same
method, but didn't brush on nearly as many coats as you
did. Needless to say, it may have delayed the cracking a
bit, but crack they did. Since that time, I have
recommended using the usual endcote/endseal for longer term
storage of green wood that you can't get immediately to.


I have looked at doing some anchorseal but because of expense
and the fact I'm not usually there as the trees are felled, I've
held off. I'm just getting back into turning after about a 10
year break, so working all green woods right now. From what
I've read the anchorseal needs to be applied immediately after
cutting and their website statistics say it only increases
usable wood 6 - 9% if done right away. Doesn't sound like very
good odds for the expense. SWMBO's sister and brother in-law
have a tree service, so I'm getting choice from about a half -
acre of 10' tree trunks that haven't been split yet. He is
setting aside burls and crotches for me to pick up, since they
are more trouble than they are worth for fire wood splitting, he
says... fine with me set em aside I'll gladly take em off his
hands.

Razz

If I can't screw it down! I can always screw it up!

do you mean leave them whole, or split em down the middle or what?(I'm
trying to find the best way to get more wood out of the bits I have, I had
some really beautiful stuff with purple and green streaks, but I got little
out of two crotches and a longer branch, the whole lot of it got big splits
all the way down. and it was drying outside in cool weather.

snip
Another alternative is to leave the wood in logs as long (length) as
possible. The ends may crack but those can be cut off to expose uncracked
wood further in. snip

Red: I am talking about any log from three feet in length up to ten feet.
The splitting of smaller pieces and removal of the pith is an archaic method
promulgated by antirevolutionary elements. I understand that some success
is enjoyed in that technique. *G*

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
do you mean leave them whole, or split em down the middle or what?(I'm
trying to find the best way to get more wood out of the bits I have, I had
some really beautiful stuff with purple and green streaks, but I got
little
out of two crotches and a longer branch, the whole lot of it got big
splits
all the way down. and it was drying outside in cool weather.

snip
Another alternative is to leave the wood in logs as long (length) as
possible. The ends may crack but those can be cut off to expose
uncracked
wood further in. snip

so would that be a yes or a no to leave them whole?
in article , Leif Thorvaldson at
wrote on 1/28/04 4:11 PM:

Red: I am talking about any log from three feet in length up to ten feet.
The splitting of smaller pieces and removal of the pith is an archaic method
promulgated by antirevolutionary elements. I understand that some success
is enjoyed in that technique. *G*

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
do you mean leave them whole, or split em down the middle or what?(I'm
trying to find the best way to get more wood out of the bits I have, I had
some really beautiful stuff with purple and green streaks, but I got
little
out of two crotches and a longer branch, the whole lot of it got big
splits
all the way down. and it was drying outside in cool weather.

snip
Another alternative is to leave the wood in logs as long (length) as
possible. The ends may crack but those can be cut off to expose
uncracked
wood further in. snip

If they are longer than the log is wide, then you can leave it whole. For a
12" wide log, I'd want the length to be at least 16-18" long for instance.
It'll split on the ends and you'll just trim those off when you make your
bowl blank. However, it takes MUCH longer to dry this way rather than just
splitting it down the middle. Splitting it down the middle (or even
quartering it if you have enough wood there to make something with the
resulting quarters) increases the chances of fewer splits/cracks/checks
than otherwise.

- Andrew



so would that be a yes or a no to leave them whole?

mine were at least 4-5 times longer then wide, and the split went all the
way from the outside to the center. it looked pretty, but I didnt like the
idea of giving it that much invitation to go flying around the shop.

If they are longer than the log is wide, then you can leave it whole. For a
12" wide log, I'd want the length to be at least 16-18" long for instance.
It'll split on the ends and you'll just trim those off when you make your
bowl blank. However, it takes MUCH longer to dry this way rather than just
splitting it down the middle. Splitting it down the middle (or even
quartering it if you have enough wood there to make something with the
resulting quarters) increases the chances of fewer splits/cracks/checks
than otherwise.

- Andrew



so would that be a yes or a no to leave them whole?

Did the split go all the way down the length of the log?? Generally, the
splits only travel about 3 - 4 inches and that end can be lopped off. I
don't like quartering or even halving logs as it limits what I might want to
do with it later. You are right not to want to turn that 3 - 4 inch end
piece, unless you can use the halves.

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
mine were at least 4-5 times longer then wide, and the split went all the
way from the outside to the center. it looked pretty, but I didnt like
the
idea of giving it that much invitation to go flying around the shop.

If they are longer than the log is wide, then you can leave it whole.
For a
12" wide log, I'd want the length to be at least 16-18" long for
instance.
It'll split on the ends and you'll just trim those off when you make
your
bowl blank. However, it takes MUCH longer to dry this way rather than
just
splitting it down the middle. Splitting it down the middle (or even
quartering it if you have enough wood there to make something with the
resulting quarters) increases the chances of fewer splits/cracks/checks
than otherwise.

- Andrew



so would that be a yes or a no to leave them whole?

Hi Reyd

Reyd go back to Darrel Feltmates web side and look around some more,
Darrel has some real (no BS) good answers to your questions, as for me
if I was not able to turn the wood right away, I would leave it as large
as possible (how strong are you ? G) seal the ends with whatever I
have on hand (latex paint, wax, plastic bag etc.) and then turn it as
soon as possible, don't try to dry it in the round, IT WILL SPLIT !!.
Have fun and take care !!
Leo Van Der Loo


Reyd Dorakeen wrote:

do you mean leave them whole, or split em down the middle or what?(I'm
trying to find the best way to get more wood out of the bits I have, I had
some really beautiful stuff with purple and green streaks, but I got little
out of two crotches and a longer branch, the whole lot of it got big splits
all the way down. and it was drying outside in cool weather.

snip

Another alternative is to leave the wood in logs as long (length) as
possible. The ends may crack but those can be cut off to expose uncracked
wood further in. snip

all the way, close to 2 feet. and they were wide cracks, maybe 4 mm
accross.
Did the split go all the way down the length of the log?? Generally, the
splits only travel about 3 - 4 inches and that end can be lopped off. I
don't like quartering or even halving logs as it limits what I might want to
do with it later. You are right not to want to turn that 3 - 4 inch end
piece, unless you can use the halves.

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
mine were at least 4-5 times longer then wide, and the split went all the
way from the outside to the center. it looked pretty, but I didnt like
the
idea of giving it that much invitation to go flying around the shop.

If they are longer than the log is wide, then you can leave it whole.
For a
12" wide log, I'd want the length to be at least 16-18" long for
instance.
It'll split on the ends and you'll just trim those off when you make
your
bowl blank. However, it takes MUCH longer to dry this way rather than
just
splitting it down the middle. Splitting it down the middle (or even
quartering it if you have enough wood there to make something with the
resulting quarters) increases the chances of fewer splits/cracks/checks
than otherwise.

- Andrew



so would that be a yes or a no to leave them whole?

I consult his page often, usually after something goes wrong with whatever
im doing


Hi Reyd

Reyd go back to Darrel Feltmates web side and look around some more,
Darrel has some real (no BS) good answers to your questions, as for me
if I was not able to turn the wood right away, I would leave it as large
as possible (how strong are you ? G) seal the ends with whatever I
have on hand (latex paint, wax, plastic bag etc.) and then turn it as
soon as possible, don't try to dry it in the round, IT WILL SPLIT !!.
Have fun and take care !!
Leo Van Der Loo


Reyd Dorakeen wrote:

do you mean leave them whole, or split em down the middle or what?(I'm
trying to find the best way to get more wood out of the bits I have, I had
some really beautiful stuff with purple and green streaks, but I got little
out of two crotches and a longer branch, the whole lot of it got big splits
all the way down. and it was drying outside in cool weather.

snip

Another alternative is to leave the wood in logs as long (length) as
possible. The ends may crack but those can be cut off to expose uncracked
wood further in. snip

Yeah, I have had similar cracking on 24 inch rounds, but on slightly larger
ones. Yours according to you are 4 to 5 times the diameter which would give
you a 4.5 or 6 inch in diameter piece. Now that I can understand a
longitudinal crack along the entire length. Most of my rounds are 8 to 24
inches in diameter.

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
all the way, close to 2 feet. and they were wide cracks, maybe 4 mm
accross.
Did the split go all the way down the length of the log?? Generally,
the
splits only travel about 3 - 4 inches and that end can be lopped off. I
don't like quartering or even halving logs as it limits what I might
want to
do with it later. You are right not to want to turn that 3 - 4 inch end
piece, unless you can use the halves.

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
mine were at least 4-5 times longer then wide, and the split went all
the
way from the outside to the center. it looked pretty, but I didnt like
the
idea of giving it that much invitation to go flying around the shop.

If they are longer than the log is wide, then you can leave it whole.
For a
12" wide log, I'd want the length to be at least 16-18" long for
instance.
It'll split on the ends and you'll just trim those off when you make
your
bowl blank. However, it takes MUCH longer to dry this way rather than
just
splitting it down the middle. Splitting it down the middle (or even
quartering it if you have enough wood there to make something with the
resulting quarters) increases the chances of fewer
splits/cracks/checks
than otherwise.

- Andrew



so would that be a yes or a no to leave them whole?

END CHECKS are just that, openings created when the outside of the end grain
dries and contracts, making openings. These rarely extend more than a
couple inches into the piece from either uncovered end, less if you protect
them. When I lop off a chunk to turn, I pull up the saw shavings, and
press a cutoff round onto the end. If I'm back in a day or so, no problem,
as long as the end is not in direct sun.

RADIAL CHECKS, the kind that run from the outside to the pith, are often
full-length. They are best avoided by keeping the bark on the log, and the
log out of the sun, to keep the exterior from drying at a more rapid rate
than the interior can compensate for. In my world, though I'm an amateur,
if the log is left on its side against the damp earth, it will begin to
decay. If it is shielded from the sun by a tarp or an old piece of carpet
and rolled periodically, it will develop color from the decay which is
fostered by the higher moisture content where in contact with the ground.
If the log is raised above the ground on skids, where it will gain no
moisture from it, there will be a readjustment of the moisture downward due
to gravity which may cause brief decay and color , or be prevented by
rolling the log periodically.

I have many logs in both states right now, all in suspended animation, as
they are frozen. The best will be rotated next spring and summer until the
decay has produced a figure of desired density, or used clear. The worst
will keep us warm year after next, being replaced on the deck with another
ten full cords of fresh to examine, select, protect and (GROAN) split.


"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...
Did the split go all the way down the length of the log?? Generally, the
splits only travel about 3 - 4 inches and that end can be lopped off. I
don't like quartering or even halving logs as it limits what I might want
to
do with it later. You are right not to want to turn that 3 - 4 inch end
piece, unless you can use the halves.

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
mine were at least 4-5 times longer then wide, and the split went all
the
way from the outside to the center.