Hi all,

I'm making my first bowl. Years ago, my
dad had signed up for a turner's course
and got to the point where he had his
blank that was about 9" by 4" and it was
glued onto a faceplate mounter. That's
as far as he got, and it was moved more
times than my mother cares to remember.

Dad died last spring and my mom produced
this blank and said, "Please do
something with it." I figured it was a
good starter project. A simple
straight-walled bowl with nothing fancy
to it.

It is. I'm having a great time. I have
sharp tools, Darrel's jigs and a
mountain of shavings. All I'm working
with is a skew, thumbnail gouge and
parting tool. I haven't seen much use
for the parter yet, and expect I won't.

I've got the outside mostly round, and
the inside roughed out.

But the inside walls are where I"m
having some problems. Two, to be exact.
They're likely related.

I can't get the wall smooth. One of the
reasons is that to get to the inside
wall, I nearly have to stand on my head
to get the tool on the wall. (Wall
closest to me. I can easily reach the
far wall, but the wall's going the wrong
direction. DAMHIKT if you put a gouge on
the wrong direction wall, the butt of
the gouge will kick back. Into your
chest. Leaving you breathless. And
looking 'round to see if anyone
witnessed it.)

As stated, I don't have gouges that are
bent to get into those places, and I'm
wondering if I can get my walls smoother
without having to turn the lathe around.
Or buying new tools.

Anyone got any suggestions?

TIA

Tanus
--

Hi, Tanus. Not used to seeing you here!

If you found Darrell's site, take a look at his tool making pages.
There are easy to follow directions to make tools that will help you
through the different aspects of turning. I believe with your limited
repertoire of tools you will be "up against it" if you are trying to
get walls interior walls uniform and smooth. Darrell's site offers
some solutions; make sure you don't miss his new videos.

I think you may need to accept that you will need other tools if you
want to make your turning efforts enjoyable and less difficult to
master. Whether you make them or buy them, it seems that you need
more than a couple of tools to turn both spindle and bowl orientations
on the lathe.

To the group though, I am aware that there are turners that use only
two or three tools (scrapers mostly) to do absolutely everything.
Good for them (or you).

But for me, I was never sad bought a 3/8" bowl gouge, a 3/4" roughing
tool and a 3/8" spindle gouge. Leaving my old Delta set behind (which
had tools that were neither bowl or spindle friendly) and purchasing
those three tools made lathe time real fun.

My 0.02.

Robert

Well, I am much more experienced than you are having turned 3 more bowls
than you have, so here's my 2 cents.
I haven't done 2 bowls the same yet and I have made enough mistakes
already for at least a dozen bowls or two. You should see how far the
bowl goes when it breaks loose from the wood that's screwed to the
faceplate.
Here are the reasons, so far, that I have had trouble getting to the
inside of the bowl:
When attaching the bottom of the bowl to the headstock with a "faceplate
mounter" as you did:
1. I used a live center in the tailstock to support the outer end (the
"inside" of the bowl to be) and therefore left a "top" shaped center in
the bowl for the center to contact. That made the distance between the
edge of the bowl and the "top" very narrow. I ended up making the
"top" a lot smaller to give me some more room.
2. Same as #1, but the tailstock itself got in the way of the tool I
was using. To minimize this problem, but not eliminate it, I set the
tailstock ram as far out as it would go.
3. Same as above, but used a spur center at the headstock. This still
requires a tailstock support so my problems and solutions were the same
as 1 and 2.
4. When attaching the bowl to the headstock with the faceplate mounter,
I can remove the whole center of the bowl (the top)because I don't HAVE
to have a tailstock support, but I do use it untill I have gotten the
inside started. Once the "top" is removed, I still have trouble because
its hard to get the tool rest close enough to that inside edge of the
bowl to have good control. I made an S-shaped tool rest and it helps a
lot. I used tool steel for mine, but a piece of hardware store steel
should be okay for a short run.
5. If all else fails, (don't tell the real bowl-turners that I said
this) 60 grit sandpaper (or maybe even 40)will do wonders to clean up
the rough parts. Of course I've never done anything like that. I just
heard that it would work well. The sandpaper WILL get hot.
6. Keep this a secret too, but the parting tool is pretty good at
taking little clean up cuts as long as you have good support and plan
the pivoting of it.

By the way, I still plan to make more bowls anyway, so I did buy one of
those 4 jaw chucks. They really work well.

Pete Stanaitis
------------------

Tanus wrote:
Hi all,

I'm making my first bowl. Years ago, my dad had signed up for a turner's
course and got to the point where he had his blank that was about 9" by
4" and it was glued onto a faceplate mounter. That's as far as he got,
and it was moved more times than my mother cares to remember.

Dad died last spring and my mom produced this blank and said, "Please do
something with it." I figured it was a good starter project. A simple
straight-walled bowl with nothing fancy to it.

It is. I'm having a great time. I have sharp tools, Darrel's jigs and a
mountain of shavings. All I'm working with is a skew, thumbnail gouge
and parting tool. I haven't seen much use for the parter yet, and expect
I won't.

I've got the outside mostly round, and the inside roughed out.

But the inside walls are where I"m having some problems. Two, to be
exact. They're likely related.

I can't get the wall smooth. One of the reasons is that to get to the
inside wall, I nearly have to stand on my head to get the tool on the
wall. (Wall closest to me. I can easily reach the far wall, but the
wall's going the wrong direction. DAMHIKT if you put a gouge on the
wrong direction wall, the butt of the gouge will kick back. Into your
chest. Leaving you breathless. And looking 'round to see if anyone
witnessed it.)

As stated, I don't have gouges that are bent to get into those places,
and I'm wondering if I can get my walls smoother without having to turn
the lathe around. Or buying new tools.

Anyone got any suggestions?

TIA

Tanus

wrote:
Hi, Tanus. Not used to seeing you here!

HI Robert. I mostly lurk on this site.
I'm really so inexperienced, I don't
have much to contribute.

If you found Darrell's site, take a look at his tool making pages.
There are easy to follow directions to make tools that will help you
through the different aspects of turning. I believe with your limited
repertoire of tools you will be "up against it" if you are trying to
get walls interior walls uniform and smooth. Darrell's site offers
some solutions; make sure you don't miss his new videos.



I think you may need to accept that you will need other tools if you
want to make your turning efforts enjoyable and less difficult to
master. Whether you make them or buy them, it seems that you need
more than a couple of tools to turn both spindle and bowl orientations
on the lathe.

I was afraid I was going to need more
tools. And SWMBO thanks you for
encouraging me to spend her
grandchildren's inheritance on a more
worthy cause. I suspect I'll go over to
LV and buy something rather than make
it. I like Darrell's site and its tips
but I'm in a bit of a time crunch, and
buying makes more sense than making at
this stage.

To the group though, I am aware that there are turners that use only
two or three tools (scrapers mostly) to do absolutely everything.
Good for them (or you).

But for me, I was never sad bought a 3/8" bowl gouge, a 3/4" roughing
tool and a 3/8" spindle gouge. Leaving my old Delta set behind (which
had tools that were neither bowl or spindle friendly) and purchasing
those three tools made lathe time real fun.


That's the kind of thing I was looking
for, Robert. Essentially I can't do
elegantly what I want to do with what I
have.

Thanks.
My 0.02.

Robert

Tanus
--

spaco wrote:
Well, I am much more experienced than you are having turned 3 more bowls
than you have, so here's my 2 cents.
I haven't done 2 bowls the same yet and I have made enough mistakes
already for at least a dozen bowls or two. You should see how far the
bowl goes when it breaks loose from the wood that's screwed to the
faceplate.
Here are the reasons, so far, that I have had trouble getting to the
inside of the bowl:
When attaching the bottom of the bowl to the headstock with a "faceplate
mounter" as you did:
1. I used a live center in the tailstock to support the outer end (the
"inside" of the bowl to be) and therefore left a "top" shaped center in
the bowl for the center to contact. That made the distance between the
edge of the bowl and the "top" very narrow. I ended up making the
"top" a lot smaller to give me some more room.
2. Same as #1, but the tailstock itself got in the way of the tool I
was using. To minimize this problem, but not eliminate it, I set the
tailstock ram as far out as it would go.
3. Same as above, but used a spur center at the headstock. This still
requires a tailstock support so my problems and solutions were the same
as 1 and 2.
4. When attaching the bowl to the headstock with the faceplate mounter,
I can remove the whole center of the bowl (the top)because I don't HAVE
to have a tailstock support, but I do use it untill I have gotten the
inside started. Once the "top" is removed, I still have trouble because
its hard to get the tool rest close enough to that inside edge of the
bowl to have good control. I made an S-shaped tool rest and it helps a
lot. I used tool steel for mine, but a piece of hardware store steel
should be okay for a short run.
5. If all else fails, (don't tell the real bowl-turners that I said
this) 60 grit sandpaper (or maybe even 40)will do wonders to clean up
the rough parts. Of course I've never done anything like that. I just
heard that it would work well. The sandpaper WILL get hot.
6. Keep this a secret too, but the parting tool is pretty good at
taking little clean up cuts as long as you have good support and plan
the pivoting of it.

By the way, I still plan to make more bowls anyway, so I did buy one of
those 4 jaw chucks. They really work well.

Pete Stanaitis
------------------



I've been having good luck with the
glued on mounter. It seems to be holding
quite well, even through the rounding
out process. The shop is unheated unless
I'm there, and that glue job has seen
-30°. If it'll handle that, it's likely
good til I need to disassemble.

I had thought of using both head and
tailstocks for this job, and decided
against it, figuring I'd run out of room
like you did.

I have the same problem with the tool
rests. Mine are both simple straight
pieces of metal. I like the idea of the
S-shaped rest, and I may either buy or
make one. I'd seen them before, but
never thought of it til you mentioned
it. That will solve half my problem. If
I could convince my drive motor to go
the other way, I'd have the whole thing
solved.

Thanks for the ideas.

Tanus

On Mon, 03 Mar 2008 18:47:32 -0500, Tanus wrote:

Hi all,

I'm making my first bowl. Years ago, my
dad had signed up for a turner's course
and got to the point where he had his
blank that was about 9" by 4" and it was
glued onto a faceplate mounter. That's
as far as he got, and it was moved more
times than my mother cares to remember.

Dad died last spring and my mom produced
this blank and said, "Please do
something with it." I figured it was a
good starter project. A simple
straight-walled bowl with nothing fancy
to it.

It is. I'm having a great time. I have
sharp tools, Darrel's jigs and a
mountain of shavings. All I'm working
with is a skew, thumbnail gouge and
parting tool. I haven't seen much use
for the parter yet, and expect I won't.

I've got the outside mostly round, and
the inside roughed out.

But the inside walls are where I"m
having some problems. Two, to be exact.
They're likely related.

I can't get the wall smooth. One of the
reasons is that to get to the inside
wall, I nearly have to stand on my head
to get the tool on the wall. (Wall
closest to me. I can easily reach the
far wall, but the wall's going the wrong
direction. DAMHIKT if you put a gouge on
the wrong direction wall, the butt of
the gouge will kick back. Into your
chest. Leaving you breathless. And
looking 'round to see if anyone
witnessed it.)

As stated, I don't have gouges that are
bent to get into those places, and I'm
wondering if I can get my walls smoother
without having to turn the lathe around.
Or buying new tools.

Anyone got any suggestions?

TIA

Tanus


do a search for oland tool. I just made two of them and only spent
less than 20 bucks. took about 11/2 hours to do both. these things are
great! I am waiting for some m2 cutters from amazon but in the mean
time I busted the flutes off a drill bit and ground the smooth end to
an edge. grind a flat on the top and round the end to around 20 to 30
degrees. I used 5/8 rod and a 1" copper union for the ferrel on a 20"
handle.

skeez

On Mar 4, 6:23*pm, Tanus wrote:
spaco wrote:
Well, I am much more experienced than you are having turned 3 more bowls
than you have, so here's my 2 cents.
* I haven't done 2 bowls the same yet and I have made enough mistakes
already for at least a dozen bowls or two. *You should see how far the
bowl goes when it breaks loose from the wood that's screwed to the
faceplate.
* Here are the reasons, so far, that I have had trouble getting to the
inside of the bowl:
When attaching the bottom of the bowl to the headstock with a "faceplate
mounter" as you did:
1. I used a live center in the tailstock to support the outer end (the
"inside" of the bowl to be) and therefore left a "top" shaped center in
the bowl for the center to contact. *That made the distance between the
*edge of the bowl and the "top" very narrow. *I ended up making the
"top" a lot smaller to give me some more room.
2. *Same as #1, but the tailstock itself got in the way of the tool I
was using. * To minimize this problem, but not eliminate it, I set the
tailstock ram as far out as it would go.
3. *Same as above, but used a spur center at the headstock. *This still
requires a tailstock support so my problems and solutions were the same
as 1 and 2.
4. *When attaching the bowl to the headstock with the faceplate mounter,
I can remove the whole center of the bowl (the top)because I don't HAVE
to have a tailstock support, but I do use it untill I have gotten the
inside started. *Once the "top" is removed, I still have trouble because
its hard to get the tool rest close enough to that inside edge of the
bowl to have good control. *I made an S-shaped tool rest and it helps a
lot. *I used tool steel for mine, but a piece of hardware store *steel
should be okay for a short run.
5. *If all else fails, (don't tell the real bowl-turners that I said
this) *60 grit sandpaper (or maybe even 40)will do wonders to clean up
the rough parts. *Of course I've never done anything like that. *I just
heard that it would work well. *The sandpaper WILL get hot.
6. *Keep this a secret too, but the parting tool is pretty good at
taking little clean up cuts as long as you have good support and plan
the pivoting of it.

By the way, I still plan to make more bowls anyway, so I did buy one of
those 4 jaw chucks. *They really work well.

Pete Stanaitis
------------------

I've been having good luck with the
glued on mounter. It seems to be holding
quite well, even through the rounding
out process. The shop is unheated unless
I'm there, and that glue job has seen
-30°. If it'll handle that, it's likely
good til I need to disassemble.

I had thought of using both head and
tailstocks for this job, and decided
against it, figuring I'd run out of room
like you did.

I have the same problem with the tool

You can stick the straight tool rest into the bowl to get your rest
closer to the wood, I do this very often, you can also stand on the
backside of the lathe to do the turning, or at least some of it, I've
done this often enough, especially when making a more closed-form
bowl, but it is handy to have a remote switch you can use so you don't
have to walk back and forth to stop and start and stop the lathe.
My lathe and some work are here to peruse if interested
http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

rests. Mine are both simple straight
pieces of metal. I like the idea of the
S-shaped rest, and I may either buy or
make one. I'd seen them before, but
never thought of it til you mentioned
it. That will solve half my problem. If
I could convince my drive motor to go
the other way, I'd have the whole thing
solved.

Thanks for the ideas.

Tanus

get a decent bowl gouge - you DO NOT need an S shaped tool rest - agree with
Leo's post - I've turned some fairly large bowls and sold them at galleries
in the 30 inch and up range - I just use the straight tool rest that came
with my lathe - I may angle the rest into the bowl mouth, but I still end up
with an overhang meaured in inches - this is not a problem with the right
tool, but it's fatal if you are using a spindle gouge on the inside of the
bowl.

you will need a bowl gouge no matter what you do - and a gouge is cheaper
than the aftermarket tool rest.






" I have the same problem with the tool
rests. Mine are both simple straight pieces of metal. I like the idea of
the S-shaped rest, and I may either buy or make one. I'd seen them before,
but never thought of it til you mentioned it. That will solve half my
problem. If I could convince my drive motor to go the other way, I'd have
the whole thing solved.

Thanks for the ideas.

Tanus



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

skeez wrote:
On Mon, 03 Mar 2008 18:47:32 -0500, Tanus wrote:

Hi all,

I'm making my first bowl. Years ago, my
dad had signed up for a turner's course
and got to the point where he had his
blank that was about 9" by 4" and it was
glued onto a faceplate mounter. That's
as far as he got, and it was moved more
times than my mother cares to remember.

Dad died last spring and my mom produced
this blank and said, "Please do
something with it." I figured it was a
good starter project. A simple
straight-walled bowl with nothing fancy
to it.

It is. I'm having a great time. I have
sharp tools, Darrel's jigs and a
mountain of shavings. All I'm working
with is a skew, thumbnail gouge and
parting tool. I haven't seen much use
for the parter yet, and expect I won't.

I've got the outside mostly round, and
the inside roughed out.

But the inside walls are where I"m
having some problems. Two, to be exact.
They're likely related.

I can't get the wall smooth. One of the
reasons is that to get to the inside
wall, I nearly have to stand on my head
to get the tool on the wall. (Wall
closest to me. I can easily reach the
far wall, but the wall's going the wrong
direction. DAMHIKT if you put a gouge on
the wrong direction wall, the butt of
the gouge will kick back. Into your
chest. Leaving you breathless. And
looking 'round to see if anyone
witnessed it.)

As stated, I don't have gouges that are
bent to get into those places, and I'm
wondering if I can get my walls smoother
without having to turn the lathe around.
Or buying new tools.

Anyone got any suggestions?

TIA

Tanus


do a search for oland tool. I just made two of them and only spent
less than 20 bucks. took about 11/2 hours to do both. these things are
great! I am waiting for some m2 cutters from amazon but in the mean
time I busted the flutes off a drill bit and ground the smooth end to
an edge. grind a flat on the top and round the end to around 20 to 30
degrees. I used 5/8 rod and a 1" copper union for the ferrel on a 20"
handle.

skeez

Cool. That sounds so easy. I need to get
more into this kind of thing. Thanks.

Tanus

--

wrote:
On Mar 4, 6:23 pm, Tanus wrote:
spaco wrote:
Well, I am much more experienced than you are having turned 3 more bowls
than you have, so here's my 2 cents.
I haven't done 2 bowls the same yet and I have made enough mistakes
already for at least a dozen bowls or two. You should see how far the
bowl goes when it breaks loose from the wood that's screwed to the
faceplate.
Here are the reasons, so far, that I have had trouble getting to the
inside of the bowl:
When attaching the bottom of the bowl to the headstock with a "faceplate
mounter" as you did:
1. I used a live center in the tailstock to support the outer end (the
"inside" of the bowl to be) and therefore left a "top" shaped center in
the bowl for the center to contact. That made the distance between the
edge of the bowl and the "top" very narrow. I ended up making the
"top" a lot smaller to give me some more room.
2. Same as #1, but the tailstock itself got in the way of the tool I
was using. To minimize this problem, but not eliminate it, I set the
tailstock ram as far out as it would go.
3. Same as above, but used a spur center at the headstock. This still
requires a tailstock support so my problems and solutions were the same
as 1 and 2.
4. When attaching the bowl to the headstock with the faceplate mounter,
I can remove the whole center of the bowl (the top)because I don't HAVE
to have a tailstock support, but I do use it untill I have gotten the
inside started. Once the "top" is removed, I still have trouble because
its hard to get the tool rest close enough to that inside edge of the
bowl to have good control. I made an S-shaped tool rest and it helps a
lot. I used tool steel for mine, but a piece of hardware store steel
should be okay for a short run.
5. If all else fails, (don't tell the real bowl-turners that I said
this) 60 grit sandpaper (or maybe even 40)will do wonders to clean up
the rough parts. Of course I've never done anything like that. I just
heard that it would work well. The sandpaper WILL get hot.
6. Keep this a secret too, but the parting tool is pretty good at
taking little clean up cuts as long as you have good support and plan
the pivoting of it.
By the way, I still plan to make more bowls anyway, so I did buy one of
those 4 jaw chucks. They really work well.
Pete Stanaitis
------------------
I've been having good luck with the
glued on mounter. It seems to be holding
quite well, even through the rounding
out process. The shop is unheated unless
I'm there, and that glue job has seen
-30°. If it'll handle that, it's likely
good til I need to disassemble.

I had thought of using both head and
tailstocks for this job, and decided
against it, figuring I'd run out of room
like you did.

I have the same problem with the tool

You can stick the straight tool rest into the bowl to get your rest
closer to the wood, I do this very often, you can also stand on the
backside of the lathe to do the turning, or at least some of it, I've
done this often enough, especially when making a more closed-form
bowl, but it is handy to have a remote switch you can use so you don't
have to walk back and forth to stop and start and stop the lathe.
My lathe and some work are here to peruse if interested
http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

rests. Mine are both simple straight
pieces of metal. I like the idea of the
S-shaped rest, and I may either buy or
make one. I'd seen them before, but
never thought of it til you mentioned
it. That will solve half my problem. If
I could convince my drive motor to go
the other way, I'd have the whole thing
solved.

Thanks for the ideas.

Tanus


Hi Leo,

Sometimes it's just interesting to see
how far one can go. You're at a stage
that I likely will never get to, but
it's wonderful to see what others can
and will do in this hobby.

Going around to the backside of the
lathe is possible, but tricky because of
my setup. A remote switch will help that
out, but I need to experiment with it
some more. I'd thought about it before,
and figured there might be a better way.
Judging on what you're saying, there
isn't. That's what I love so much about
forums like this. Ideas, ideas, ideas...

Tanus

--

William Noble wrote:
get a decent bowl gouge - you DO NOT need an S shaped tool rest - agree with
Leo's post - I've turned some fairly large bowls and sold them at galleries
in the 30 inch and up range - I just use the straight tool rest that came
with my lathe - I may angle the rest into the bowl mouth, but I still end up
with an overhang meaured in inches - this is not a problem with the right
tool, but it's fatal if you are using a spindle gouge on the inside of the
bowl.

you will need a bowl gouge no matter what you do - and a gouge is cheaper
than the aftermarket tool rest.






" I have the same problem with the tool
rests. Mine are both simple straight pieces of metal. I like the idea of
the S-shaped rest, and I may either buy or make one. I'd seen them before,
but never thought of it til you mentioned it. That will solve half my
problem. If I could convince my drive motor to go the other way, I'd have
the whole thing solved.

Thanks for the ideas.

Tanus



Again as in my response to Leo, thank
you for taking the time to give a newb a
few pointers. It makes life so much
easier to find out basics this way.

Tanus

--

Hi all,

I'm making my first bowl. Years ago, my dad had signed up for a
turner's course and got to the point where he had his blank that was
about 9" by 4" and it was glued onto a faceplate mounter. That's as
far as he got, and it was moved more times than my mother cares to
remember.

Dad died last spring and my mom produced this blank and said, "Please
do something with it." I figured it was a good starter project. A
simple straight-walled bowl with nothing fancy to it.

It is. I'm having a great time. I have sharp tools, Darrel's jigs and
a mountain of shavings. All I'm working with is a skew, thumbnail
gouge and parting tool. I haven't seen much use for the parter yet,
and expect I won't.

I've got the outside mostly round, and the inside roughed out.

But the inside walls are where I"m having some problems. Two, to be
exact. They're likely related.

I can't get the wall smooth. One of the reasons is that to get to the
inside wall, I nearly have to stand on my head to get the tool on the
wall. (Wall closest to me. I can easily reach the far wall, but the
wall's going the wrong direction. DAMHIKT if you put a gouge on the
wrong direction wall, the butt of the gouge will kick back. Into your
chest. Leaving you breathless. And looking 'round to see if anyone
witnessed it.)

As stated, I don't have gouges that are bent to get into those
places, and I'm wondering if I can get my walls smoother without
having to turn the lathe around. Or buying new tools.

Anyone got any suggestions?

TIA

Tanus

I finished that bowl. Unbeknownst to me
when i started, the blank was two pieces
of walnut laminated to form a 4" thick
piece.

I never did get round to using some of
the suggestions you folks kindly made to
my first request. I had a bit of a time
limit and wanted it finished so I
improvised and ended with something that
has whet my appetite.

I don't have pictures, btw. It's nothing
much to look at anyway. 9" bowl that's
been finished with tung oil. It looks ok.

Learned a few things about sharpening,
about spindle speed, and how to hold
something to turn it. Learned a bit
about mess and dust in places I didn't
know dust could go. Learned a bit of
respect for spinning things and how
quickly they might spin things into you.

Learned that this hobby has at least one
thing in common with other woodworking.
It's gonna break the bank if I keep up
with it.

Learned that even in a very small shop,
you can always squeeze just one more
piece of iron and that right now the
shop's biggest plus is its ability to
allow things to go vertical.

As mentioned, it whet my appetite. I've
got a ton of things to do in the shop,
not the least of which is to continually
learn and re-learn more and more basic
techniques, which will cut into turning
time. But with this simple bowl that
wouldn't get me $5 at a craft fair ( I
figure that translates to about
$.07/hour) I've got something that has
me wanting to do more and more.

Thank you guys for helping - the ones
who responded and the other ones who are
the core of any group.

Tanus

--

Glad there is another addict in the neighborhood.


Learned that this hobby has at least one thing in common with other
woodworking. It's gonna break the bank if I keep up with it.
To some point I agree with you about this hobby breaking the bank. The
initial cost can be overwhelming and expensive, but once you have the the
equipment and tools, you can turn wood without spending much money at all.
It is amazing how much free wood can be picked up from local people. And
after you get good, its amazing how many people ask you to come by and pick
up some wood they've saved for you. Really, the only expenses lately have
been finishing supplies and sanding materials. Like any hobby, there are
always things you want, or things you think you "need", but with a little
digging on the web, asking questions here (and other places), and a little
ingenuity, you can build most of the things you want that are nearly better
than anything you can buy.

Good luck and have fun. And don't hesitate to share on here, that's what
makes RCW so interesting to me, all the different experiences everyone
shares here.

JD

When someone asks me what kind of wood I like to turn, my answer is
"free."

I like free stuff, because firewood it was at the beginning, and if it
becomes firewood at the end, I've lost nothing but time.

It frees me up to take chances, to try things, and not to have to
worry about wasting a paid-for blank.

I have several that I paid for, and I haven't gotten up courage to
put a chisel to them.

Old Guy



On Mar 18, 8:03*pm, "JD" wrote:
Glad there is another addict in the neighborhood.

Learned that this hobby has at least one thing in common with other
woodworking. It's gonna break the bank if I keep up with it.

To some point I agree with you about this hobby breaking the bank. The
initial cost can be overwhelming and expensive, but once you have the the
equipment and tools, you can turn wood without spending much money at all.
It is amazing how much free wood can be picked up from local people. And
after you get good, its amazing how many people ask you to come by and pick
up some wood they've saved for you. Really, the only expenses lately have
been finishing supplies and sanding materials. Like any hobby, there are
always things you want, or things you think you "need", but with a little
digging on the web, asking questions here (and other places), and a little
ingenuity, you can build most of the things you want that are nearly better
than anything you can buy.

Good luck and have fun. And don't hesitate to share on here, that's what
makes RCW so interesting to me, all the different experiences everyone
shares here.

JD