On Mar 4, 6:23*pm, Tanus wrote:
spaco wrote:
Well, I am much more experienced than you are having turned 3 more bowls
than you have, so here's my 2 cents.
* I haven't done 2 bowls the same yet and I have made enough mistakes
already for at least a dozen bowls or two. *You should see how far the
bowl goes when it breaks loose from the wood that's screwed to the
faceplate.
* Here are the reasons, so far, that I have had trouble getting to the
inside of the bowl:
When attaching the bottom of the bowl to the headstock with a "faceplate
mounter" as you did:
1. I used a live center in the tailstock to support the outer end (the
"inside" of the bowl to be) and therefore left a "top" shaped center in
the bowl for the center to contact. *That made the distance between the
*edge of the bowl and the "top" very narrow. *I ended up making the
"top" a lot smaller to give me some more room.
2. *Same as #1, but the tailstock itself got in the way of the tool I
was using. * To minimize this problem, but not eliminate it, I set the
tailstock ram as far out as it would go.
3. *Same as above, but used a spur center at the headstock. *This still
requires a tailstock support so my problems and solutions were the same
as 1 and 2.
4. *When attaching the bowl to the headstock with the faceplate mounter,
I can remove the whole center of the bowl (the top)because I don't HAVE
to have a tailstock support, but I do use it untill I have gotten the
inside started. *Once the "top" is removed, I still have trouble because
its hard to get the tool rest close enough to that inside edge of the
bowl to have good control. *I made an S-shaped tool rest and it helps a
lot. *I used tool steel for mine, but a piece of hardware store *steel
should be okay for a short run.
5. *If all else fails, (don't tell the real bowl-turners that I said
this) *60 grit sandpaper (or maybe even 40)will do wonders to clean up
the rough parts. *Of course I've never done anything like that. *I just
heard that it would work well. *The sandpaper WILL get hot.
6. *Keep this a secret too, but the parting tool is pretty good at
taking little clean up cuts as long as you have good support and plan
the pivoting of it.
By the way, I still plan to make more bowls anyway, so I did buy one of
those 4 jaw chucks. *They really work well.
Pete Stanaitis
------------------
I've been having good luck with the
glued on mounter. It seems to be holding
quite well, even through the rounding
out process. The shop is unheated unless
I'm there, and that glue job has seen
-30°. If it'll handle that, it's likely
good til I need to disassemble.
I had thought of using both head and
tailstocks for this job, and decided
against it, figuring I'd run out of room
like you did.
I have the same problem with the tool
You can stick the straight tool rest into the bowl to get your rest
closer to the wood, I do this very often, you can also stand on the
backside of the lathe to do the turning, or at least some of it, I've
done this often enough, especially when making a more closed-form
bowl, but it is handy to have a remote switch you can use so you don't
have to walk back and forth to stop and start and stop the lathe.
My lathe and some work are here to peruse if interested
http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo
rests. Mine are both simple straight
pieces of metal. I like the idea of the
S-shaped rest, and I may either buy or
make one. I'd seen them before, but
never thought of it til you mentioned
it. That will solve half my problem. If
I could convince my drive motor to go
the other way, I'd have the whole thing
solved.
Thanks for the ideas.
Tanus