I have read that CA is sometimes used for hardening soft spots that
can't be turned out for various reasons.

Has anyone used wood hardener, the sort used for penetrating rotting
wood to give it strength again. It's moisture activated, though with a
cure time of several hours over that of CA's seconds/minutes. Do the
chemicals used in such a product mean that its unsuitable ? The one big
advantage I can see over CA is price, so if time is not an issue it may
be a viable option

Thanks for any input
--
John

John
I have used Minwax wood hardener on soft and spalted wood to turn and found
it good. I am not sure that it is any better, however, than acrylic floor
polish. That works as well. I turn to close to finish and then allow the
polish or Minwax to soak into the outer parts of the turning and finish it
off. Pen blanks can be vacuum filled.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"John" wrote in message
...
I have read that CA is sometimes used for hardening soft spots that can't
be turned out for various reasons.

Has anyone used wood hardener, the sort used for penetrating rotting wood
to give it strength again. It's moisture activated, though with a cure
time of several hours over that of CA's seconds/minutes. Do the chemicals
used in such a product mean that its unsuitable ? The one big advantage I
can see over CA is price, so if time is not an issue it may be a viable
option

Thanks for any input
--
John

FWIW, CA glue is not that expensive if you buy it by the quart - it's only
expensive in those little tiny bottles - I pay around $2 per ounce
"John" wrote in message
...
I have read that CA is sometimes used for hardening soft spots that can't
be turned out for various reasons.

Has anyone used wood hardener, the sort used for penetrating rotting wood
to give it strength again. It's moisture activated, though with a cure
time of several hours over that of CA's seconds/minutes. Do the chemicals
used in such a product mean that its unsuitable ? The one big advantage I
can see over CA is price, so if time is not an issue it may be a viable
option

Thanks for any input
--
John



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

In message wlRij.32285$fj2.21379@edtnps82, Darrell Feltmate
writes
John
I have used Minwax wood hardener on soft and spalted wood to turn and found
it good. I am not sure that it is any better, however, than acrylic floor
polish. That works as well. I turn to close to finish and then allow the
polish or Minwax to soak into the outer parts of the turning and finish it
off. Pen blanks can be vacuum filled.

Hi Darrell,

Thanks for the hints, it sounds like anything that will
A. soak in
B. Harden

Might be suitable options. It sounds like time for me to see what I can
find and experiment.

Maybe I should get a large chunk of Balsa and use that as the basis of
testing each, it should give a reasonably constant soft base line. Any
thoughts?
--
John

I think if I was going to turn balsa I would thin out epoxy and use it as
hardener. On the other hand I would not turn balsa. I don't think. Maybe.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"John" wrote in message
...
In message wlRij.32285$fj2.21379@edtnps82, Darrell Feltmate
writes
John
I have used Minwax wood hardener on soft and spalted wood to turn and
found
it good. I am not sure that it is any better, however, than acrylic floor
polish. That works as well. I turn to close to finish and then allow the
polish or Minwax to soak into the outer parts of the turning and finish it
off. Pen blanks can be vacuum filled.

Hi Darrell,

Thanks for the hints, it sounds like anything that will
A. soak in
B. Harden

Might be suitable options. It sounds like time for me to see what I can
find and experiment.

Maybe I should get a large chunk of Balsa and use that as the basis of
testing each, it should give a reasonably constant soft base line. Any
thoughts?
--
John

In article S%2jj.32431$fj2.17766@edtnps82,
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

I think if I was going to turn balsa I would thin out epoxy and use it as
hardener. On the other hand I would not turn balsa. I don't think. Maybe.

If any of the local kids ever pry themselves away from video screens and
make rockets, balsa turning is a useful skill. A light touch, and a good
deal of abrasive shaping/finishing - no hardener required. A few coats
of old-fashioned airplane dope for an excellent finish.

As far as I can tell, the "wood hardener" product that's a milky liquid
is exactly the same as, but more expensive than, waterbased acrylic wood
finish.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
In article S%2jj.32431$fj2.17766@edtnps82,
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

I think if I was going to turn balsa I would thin out epoxy and use it as
hardener. On the other hand I would not turn balsa. I don't think. Maybe.

If any of the local kids ever pry themselves away from video screens and
make rockets, balsa turning is a useful skill. A light touch, and a good
deal of abrasive shaping/finishing - no hardener required. A few coats
of old-fashioned airplane dope for an excellent finish.

As far as I can tell, the "wood hardener" product that's a milky liquid
is exactly the same as, but more expensive than, waterbased acrylic wood
finish.


That's what our Science Olympiad team did, turned balsa for nose cones. I
had 'em start with bass and then eastern white cedar, which is brittle like
balsa. The best two had it down after a couple of each. What ended up the
best was a greased piece of bass with plastic heated over it to conform.
No, I didn't push any particular way as best. I know the rules!

Acrylics are water-soluble "bulkers" that keep fragile and brittle grain in
line, and limit the distortion of the piece.

In message ,
Ecnerwal writes
In article S%2jj.32431$fj2.17766@edtnps82,
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

I think if I was going to turn balsa I would thin out epoxy and use it as
hardener. On the other hand I would not turn balsa. I don't think. Maybe.

If any of the local kids ever pry themselves away from video screens and
make rockets, balsa turning is a useful skill. A light touch, and a good
deal of abrasive shaping/finishing - no hardener required. A few coats
of old-fashioned airplane dope for an excellent finish.

I hadn't actually intended to turn the balsa, just use it as a base line
for the effects of hardening, though it sounds like it may be an
interesting experiment in its self


As far as I can tell, the "wood hardener" product that's a milky liquid
is exactly the same as, but more expensive than, waterbased acrylic wood
finish.

The wood hardener I was thinking about is actually clear (Ronseal Wet
Rot hardener). After speaking to the manufacturer they reminded me that
you need to inject it by using holes, and that its penetration is only
about 5mm. Also if you need to treat woodworm then that needs to be done
first.

And the big kicker is that the compounds used in the hardener mean that
only their wood fillers will adhere to it, some form of chemical
bonding. Which essentially means that normal waxes varnishes etc. will
not normally adhere.

At least they didn't say it was impossible, but gave encouragement to
give it a try.


--
John

On Jan 15, 12:54 am, "William Noble" wrote:
FWIW, CA glue is not that expensive if you buy it by the quart - it's only
expensive in those little tiny bottles - I pay around $2 per ounce"John" wrote in message

Where do you find it in quart size?

JD

William Noble wrote:
FWIW, CA glue is not that expensive if you buy it by the quart - it's only
expensive in those little tiny bottles - I pay around $2 per ounce

How long does it last? You keep it in the fridge?

--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

I pick it up in I think 20 ounce bottles - I've never had it go bad in the
bottle. I usually keep it in the fridge (now, there's a dated word for you)
just so I can find it when I need it, and pour it into 2 ounce bottles to
put by the lathe - I have had it harden up in the 2 ounce bottles, but
usually after a year or two - I have to buy more every 2 or 3 years,
depending on how much I'm using the lathe. I get it from a guy at a local
swap meet, but if you get some friends together it is cheapest if you buy it
in 5 gallon drums - just search the web
here are some random links to get you started
http://www.gromax-usa.com/glue/glue.htm
http://www.chemence.com/index.php/uk...eneral-purpose
in the UK
http://www.parsonadhesives.com/parfix/cyanoacrylate.htm
http://www.ca-plus.com/ca_ethyl.html
http://www.masterbond.com/package.html
http://www.masterbond.com/sg/masterbond_cyanosg.pdf
http://www.gulfcoastadhesives.com/product-lines.html
http://www.ptscoshop.com/starbond_em...e_adhesive.htm
http://www.hinkleymall.com/caglue.html

"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
...
William Noble wrote:
FWIW, CA glue is not that expensive if you buy it by the quart - it's
only
expensive in those little tiny bottles - I pay around $2 per ounce

How long does it last? You keep it in the fridge?

--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

John wrote:
: The wood hardener I was thinking about is actually clear (Ronseal Wet
: Rot hardener). After speaking to the manufacturer they reminded me that
: you need to inject it by using holes, and that its penetration is only
: about 5mm. Also if you need to treat woodworm then that needs to be done
: first.



There's a thin epoxy designed for use on boats, at http://www.rotdoctor.com.
I don't know about finishes, but it penetrates a lot deeper than 5mm.


-- Andy Barss