Hello all..

I found a decent deal at the local RONA today, picked up the Delta Midi
lathe for CDN $245.. the only tool I really didn't have, but thought it was
a good deal.. and the idea of making pens intrigues me.. went to Lee Valley
and bought the kits, the reams, CA glue, all that fun stuff.

So I got home, and I set it up today, (after cleaning alot of grease off
of it) and it seems to run fine. Put a piece of walnut in it, and gave er a
try.

After the chips settled, I found I ran into a few questions.

When I mount the wood in the lathe, how much 'pressure' do you put on the
tailstock.. how hard do I screw it in?

After getting it rounded off, I noticed that:

1: the tailstock head spins slowly with the piece, but not at the same
speed.. is that normal?
2: the piece oscillates ever so little.. If I back off the tailstock head a
bit, the tailstock pin stops turning, & the oscillating stops. Is that
normal?
3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the point on the tailstock,
the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm diff). Does this really
matter?

thanks for any and all advice.

I may have some advice you don't want to hear...

You clearly do not have much in the way of book-learning on the subject
of turning and no experience. Did it occur to you that while you are
experimenting with this and that, the blank could become a projectile
and leave the lathe in an unpredictable angle at a rather high rate of
speed?

You need to get a few books or somebody who has a clue to give you a
little help before you hurt yourself.

Bill

MikeMac wrote:
Hello all..

I found a decent deal at the local RONA today, picked up the Delta Midi
lathe for CDN $245.. the only tool I really didn't have, but thought it was
a good deal.. and the idea of making pens intrigues me.. went to Lee Valley
and bought the kits, the reams, CA glue, all that fun stuff.

So I got home, and I set it up today, (after cleaning alot of grease off
of it) and it seems to run fine. Put a piece of walnut in it, and gave er a
try.

After the chips settled, I found I ran into a few questions.

When I mount the wood in the lathe, how much 'pressure' do you put on the
tailstock.. how hard do I screw it in?

After getting it rounded off, I noticed that:

1: the tailstock head spins slowly with the piece, but not at the same
speed.. is that normal?
2: the piece oscillates ever so little.. If I back off the tailstock head a
bit, the tailstock pin stops turning, & the oscillating stops. Is that
normal?
3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the point on the tailstock,
the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm diff). Does this really
matter?

thanks for any and all advice.

When using a live center in the tailstock, it should rotate at the same
speed as your work piece.

The headstock and tailstock should be in alignment. If you have trouble
adjusting the alignment by eye, you can buy a morse taper alignment tool (a
straight shaft with #2 morse taper on each end) for about $17 US or have an
experienced turner make one for you out of wood.

Your workpiece should not oscillate unless you are intentionally doing
offcenter turning.

Tailstock pressure should be enough to solidly hold the workpiece without
deforming the workpiece. For pens and smaller pieces, it doesn't take a lot
of pressure. If you put too much pressure on your pen mandrel you will get
deflection.

MH


"MikeMac" wrote in message
...
Hello all..

I found a decent deal at the local RONA today, picked up the Delta Midi
lathe for CDN $245.. the only tool I really didn't have, but thought it
was a good deal.. and the idea of making pens intrigues me.. went to Lee
Valley and bought the kits, the reams, CA glue, all that fun stuff.

So I got home, and I set it up today, (after cleaning alot of grease off
of it) and it seems to run fine. Put a piece of walnut in it, and gave er
a try.

After the chips settled, I found I ran into a few questions.

When I mount the wood in the lathe, how much 'pressure' do you put on the
tailstock.. how hard do I screw it in?

After getting it rounded off, I noticed that:

1: the tailstock head spins slowly with the piece, but not at the same
speed.. is that normal?
2: the piece oscillates ever so little.. If I back off the tailstock head
a bit, the tailstock pin stops turning, & the oscillating stops. Is that
normal?
3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the point on the
tailstock, the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm diff). Does this
really matter?

thanks for any and all advice.

Mike
Advice (1) if you do not have a face shield, get one and wear it
(2) line up the head and tail centers; your manual should explain how
(3) get someone to show you a few pointers, woodturners love to do this
(4) watch some videos or cd's, read few books, and/or join a turning
group
(5) ask us questions, we like to answer
(6) check out the sharpening jig on my site, it will help immensely

Welcome to the addiction.
______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"MikeMac" wrote in message
...
Hello all..

I found a decent deal at the local RONA today, picked up the Delta Midi
lathe for CDN $245.. the only tool I really didn't have, but thought it
was
a good deal.. and the idea of making pens intrigues me.. went to Lee
Valley
and bought the kits, the reams, CA glue, all that fun stuff.

So I got home, and I set it up today, (after cleaning alot of grease off
of it) and it seems to run fine. Put a piece of walnut in it, and gave er
a
try.

After the chips settled, I found I ran into a few questions.

When I mount the wood in the lathe, how much 'pressure' do you put on the
tailstock.. how hard do I screw it in?

After getting it rounded off, I noticed that:

1: the tailstock head spins slowly with the piece, but not at the same
speed.. is that normal?
2: the piece oscillates ever so little.. If I back off the tailstock head
a
bit, the tailstock pin stops turning, & the oscillating stops. Is that
normal?
3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the point on the
tailstock,
the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm diff). Does this really
matter?

thanks for any and all advice.

You clearly don't have any experience with diplomacy or tact.

I suspect that your message is addressed to me although it is difficult
to know. If that is the case...

I believe that if you knew me, on balance, you would find out you were
wrong about me. But, there are some situations which seem to me to be
so critical that there is no time for tact. My intent was to bring to
the original poster the seriousness of the situation and if I offended
some (or offended him), so be it.

Bill

ebd wrote:
You clearly don't have any experience with diplomacy or tact.

Hi Mike, Your questions are not unusual and have been discussed here
many times. There are many facets to discuss re your questions, but they
should remain on hold at this stage of your new addiction. The
suggestions and warnings were made in friendly but firm concern by
people who welcome you here. Please join us and enjoy rcw ....
responsibly!

Brian Clifford's e-book, "Introduction to woodturning" is free,
available and authoritative. Someone will provide the URL. Study it
before you turn your lathe back on! If I am undiplomatic or tactless,
so be it if I get your attention. Unlike most of your machine tools,
your new lathe's hazards are not all self evident and can threaten eye,
limb, lung, and life. It's all happened before and will happen again.
Our aim is to not let it happen to you.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"MikeMac" writes:
1: the tailstock head spins slowly with the piece, but not at the
same speed.. is that normal?

No. Tighten it just until they turn at the same speed.

Note: Don't use tailstock pressure to embed the drive center into the
wood. Examples of how to do it right:

1. Remove the drive center and hammer it into the wood with a mallet,
then replace it in the lathe.

2. Use a bandsaw to cut an X or + in the end of the wood, perhaps
pre-drilling a small center hole, so that the center catches without
pressure.

3. pre-drill a hole narrow enough that the center's wings *almost*
touch the wood. Install the wood with the tail center lightly
touching. Hold the wood and turn on the lathe; the drive center
spins and the wood just sits there. Gradually tighten the tail
center until the drive center starts cutting (yes, cutting) the end
of the wood. This gives you a perfectly flat surface, which
requires less pressure to grab. Now, let go of the wood and
tighten the tail center a little more.

In all cases, pre-drilling a small hole is useful for smaller blanks,
where the splitting action of the center might split the blank. Or,
get a center with a spring-loaded point.

2: the piece oscillates ever so little.. If I back off the
tailstock head a bit, the tailstock pin stops turning, & the
oscillating stops. Is that normal?

No. If you press *too* hard with the tailstock, you could bow the
wood, which is bad.

3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the point on the
tailstock, the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm diff).
Does this really matter?

Yes. They should be so close you can't see any deviation.

In article ,
(Arch) wrote:

Hi Mike, Your questions are not unusual and have been discussed here
many times. There are many facets to discuss re your questions, but they
should remain on hold at this stage of your new addiction. The
suggestions and warnings were made in friendly but firm concern by
people who welcome you here. Please join us and enjoy rcw ....
responsibly!

Brian Clifford's e-book, "Introduction to woodturning" is free,
available and authoritative. Someone will provide the URL.

http://www.turningtools.co.uk/pdf_fi...k/pdfbook.html

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

"MikeMac" wrote: (clip) 3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the
point on the tailstock, the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm
diff). Does this really matter?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The standard answer is that it does matter. It does not always matter all
that much. For example, if you are turning a long spindle between centers,
a little error in tailstock alignment produces a slight angle to the work
axis. On a metal lathe, this would produce a taper. On a wood lathe, since
the tools are hand-held, the turner simply turns to the correct diameter for
the full length using eyes and calipers. The spur drive acts as a little
U-joint, and you probably would never notice the difference'

On the other hand, suppose you are holding a bowl blank on a faceplate, or
in a chuck, and you bring up the tailstock for extra support (and safety.)
It the tailstock is off center, something will have to give. In a chuck,
the wood will probably start slipping. On a faceplate, the screws could
work loose. Or the tailstock will flex. None of this is good.

Since you are turning pens, you must be using one of those mandrels that
plugs into the Morse taper of the spindle. Running with the tailstock end 1
mm off will probably cause the mandrel to bow. This could result in a
little whipping action, which will make bad pens. Then again, if you don't
use too much tailstock pressure, you may be able to get it to run smoothly,
and you're on your way.

Oh, yes--just because you find a 1 mm misalignment at close contact spindle
to tailstock, it could be different at other places on the ways. I would
try it and see what happens.

Good luck, and keep asking questions.

Since you mentioned Lee valley, I expect you are in Canada. What
area? It is often very helpful to get some one-on-one advice from
someone who already turns. We might be able to help you connect to
someone, or a turning club in your area.
Brad
MikeMac wrote:
Hello all..

I found a decent deal at the local RONA today, picked up the Delta Midi
lathe for CDN $245.. the only tool I really didn't have, but thought it was
a good deal.. and the idea of making pens intrigues me.. went to Lee Valley
and bought the kits, the reams, CA glue, all that fun stuff.

So I got home, and I set it up today, (after cleaning alot of grease off
of it) and it seems to run fine. Put a piece of walnut in it, and gave er a
try.

After the chips settled, I found I ran into a few questions.

When I mount the wood in the lathe, how much 'pressure' do you put on the
tailstock.. how hard do I screw it in?

After getting it rounded off, I noticed that:

1: the tailstock head spins slowly with the piece, but not at the same
speed.. is that normal?
2: the piece oscillates ever so little.. If I back off the tailstock head a
bit, the tailstock pin stops turning, & the oscillating stops. Is that
normal?
3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the point on the tailstock,
the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm diff). Does this really
matter?

thanks for any and all advice.

On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 23:06:39 -0400, "MikeMac"
wrote:

[top posted for your convenience]

At the risk of being ostracized from the community, I'll take
exception with some of the responses given. Turning is not like flying
an airplane--you are not almost certainly doomed if you take one off
without any instruction. Yes, there are some risks, just as there are
with any machinery. But, in my opinion, the lathe is nowhere near as
risky as a table saw, for example, or any of a number of tools that
many people have taken up safely with little or no instruction.

I think sometimes, we who have been "tooling around" for a while and
have seen most of the bad scrapes one can get into tend to think worst
case scenario for every newcomer the first time on a tool. But of all
the tools in my shop, I'd probably be most comfortable starting a
newcomer out on a lathe than the rest.

I, for one, have never had a lick of instruction on a single power
tool. I have, however, read a LOT of books, watched a lot of DIY TV,
and have seen Norm Abram's show perhaps more than anyone. And I have a
gift for self teaching. So, I may not be a good example of the
"if-I-can-do-it, anyone-can" school of thought.

Actually, I have to mention I did go to a woodworking class at a local
high school once. I was having trouble with the skew chisel on my
(homemade) lathe, so I thought I would get some larnin' from a real
teacher. I had to suffer through two weeks (one night a week) of
safety instructions and guidance to less experienced wooddorkers
planning on building Philadelphia highboys and such, before the
instructor got around to me.

I told him I was interested in learning about the lathe. So he took me
over to the big Powermatic, chucked up a piece of wood, and started to
scrape. I thought, "what a load of crap--I already know how to
scrape." I realized I knew more than he did and never went back.

Get a book to learn some fundamentals. Even I can't do stuff without
fundamentals. But if you have any ability to self teach at all, you
can certainly learn to do good work on the lathe.

By the way, with regard to all the dire warnings you've been given,
remember, good decisions come from experience, and a lot of experience
comes from bad decisions. There's not one of those guys that hasn't
had a piece of wood thrown at them--exactly what they're trying to
help you avoid. You can't, completely, so go ahead with your
adventure.

Nomex suit on.

I found a decent deal at the local RONA today, picked up the Delta Midi
lathe for CDN $245.. the only tool I really didn't have, but thought it was
a good deal.. and the idea of making pens intrigues me.. went to Lee Valley
and bought the kits, the reams, CA glue, all that fun stuff.

So I got home, and I set it up today, (after cleaning alot of grease off
of it) and it seems to run fine. Put a piece of walnut in it, and gave er a
try.

After the chips settled, I found I ran into a few questions.

When I mount the wood in the lathe, how much 'pressure' do you put on the
tailstock.. how hard do I screw it in?

After getting it rounded off, I noticed that:

1: the tailstock head spins slowly with the piece, but not at the same
speed.. is that normal?
2: the piece oscillates ever so little.. If I back off the tailstock head a
bit, the tailstock pin stops turning, & the oscillating stops. Is that
normal?
3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the point on the tailstock,
the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm diff). Does this really
matter?

thanks for any and all advice.



--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

On 27 Aug 2006 05:03:41 -0700, "ebd" wrote:


You clearly don't have any experience with diplomacy or tact.

Very helpful suggestion, EBD.. I'm sure that it helped the OP a lot..

I'd suggest that the OP visit the sites of a few members here, especially
Darrell Feltmate's site at:


www.aroundthewoods.com

I'm self taught, and it took me 3 years of hard work to unlearn all the
bad/dangerous/expensive habits that I'd learned..

There's tons of free help on the web for any level turner that wants to learn
and have fun..

Quick answer... the tailstock, if it has a "live center", should be turning at
the same speed as the work...
I sort of go by feel, but try tightening it while the lathe is running.. put
enough pressure on the tail stock to keep the wood up to speed but not bind or
burn it.. back off a bit if the lathe is slowed by the tailstock..

Several places sell "Safety Centers" that will not grab if you catch the wood
with the chisel.. might be a good investment..

I'm hoping that since you have a well setup shop, you have a face shield... if
not please Get one... can't turn much if you don't have eyes left..

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

"LRod" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 23:06:39 -0400, "MikeMac"
wrote:

[top posted for your convenience]


How is top posting convenient?!?!? I had to scroll all the way down to the
bottom of your message to see what you were replying to, then scroll back up
to read your post. While it didn't kill me, it certainly wasn't convenient.

On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 02:13:01 -0400, "TBM" wrote:


"LRod" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 23:06:39 -0400, "MikeMac"
wrote:

[top posted for your convenience]


How is top posting convenient?!?!? I had to scroll all the way down to the
bottom of your message to see what you were replying to, then scroll back up
to read your post. While it didn't kill me, it certainly wasn't convenient.

As long as there are people who refuse to trim each of the gazillion
previous poster's replies from their their own you will never be able
to present an argument defending bottom posting as preferable to top
posting. Not saying you're one of them, but bottom posters seem
blindly adamant when it comes condemning top posting while failing to
themselves edit.

This reply, however, is a perfect example of how bottom posting is
acceptable. Compare it to thousands of daily egregious examples to the
contrary.

Okay, so maybe it was for my convenience. I don't have a problem with
it.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

MikeMac wrote: After getting it rounded off, I noticed that:

2: the piece oscillates ever so little.. If I back off the tailstock head a
bit, the tailstock pin stops turning, & the oscillating stops. Is that
normal?

It sounds like you're turning a long thin spindle. When the L/D gets
over about 15 the center of the spindle starts to whip (like a
jumprope--first dynamic mode of instability). to put more pressure
(until your live center turns at the same speed as the wood, as
previously mentioned) you will increase this vibration. To turn long
thin spindles like this you have to strike a happy medium by doing one
or more of the following, and it gets harder the longer your spindle
becomes:

a. make it so the tailstock is slightly looser, but this isn't the best
choice, as your piece will then vibrate on the spindle cone and cause a
rough surface.

b. hold the spindle steady as you turn, either with your hand, as many
old style turners do, or using a steady rest. The steady rest takes a
lot more time, and it's often easier to use the hand that is at the tip
of the tool to kind of hold the piece steady as it spins. The way many
turners do this, they put their left thumb on the tool tip and the four
pads of fingers rest on the spinning spindle. This really is only
helpful and safe once the wood is close to round, or at least octagonal
with rounded corners from your first tool pass.

Roughing out the spindle can be made easier by starting with a straight
tool edge and scraping away a few mm at a time, making each cut round
before you take off the next few mm. Trying to use a cutting action
with a nonround part is going to take longer and be more frustrating
when you're just beginning.

c. I have had great success turning long spindles (L/D30) with a
short, very low angle hand plane held in one hand and the second hand
on the opposite side of the spindle, holding only the flat of my hand.

Again, you should start with a scraper to make the whole thing round
before you try cutting with a plane, and use the plane only to make it
smooth and cut a fair, straight line. Using a plane, press the shoe
flat against the cylinder to be cut, blade edge perpendicular to the
axis of rotation so it's not cutting and slowly change the angle of the
plane until it just takes off the smallest finest curl of wood, and
then be patient. I find the best angle is around 20-45 degrees from
perpendicular. Take many passes like this and you can get a glassy
smooth finish as good as a skew or better, but with less vibration
because the piece is supported.

When I use a hand plane for long spindles, I don't use a tool rest. It
seems like it will help you support the plane, but I think it adds a
high risk of seriously pinching fingers between the wood and the tool
rest.

3: If I line up the point of the headstock, and the point on the tailstock,
the don't line up perfectly.. (less than 1 mm diff). Does this really
matter?

Leo's answer is correct on this. More info: some lathes have
adjustments for that problem. Mine only has a side to side adjustment,
so if they're off up and down, I have to shim the headstock until
they're the same height.

Less than a mm, you'll never notice the diff unless you're turning with
a geared & indexed tool rest. If I get it under 1/8" (2-3 mm) I'm happy.

You have to do that once per thread. Bottom posting forces you to scroll
through EVERY post to get past the stuff you've already read. Waste your
time once or over and over again?

"TBM" wrote in message
...
How is top posting convenient?!?!? I had to scroll all the way down to the
bottom of your message to see what you were replying to, then scroll back
up
to read your post. While it didn't kill me, it certainly wasn't
convenient.

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 03:39:35 +0000, CW wrote:

You have to do that once per thread. Bottom posting forces you to scroll
through EVERY post to get past the stuff you've already read. Waste your
time once or over and over again?

"TBM" wrote in message
...
How is top posting convenient?!?!? I had to scroll all the way down to the
bottom of your message to see what you were replying to, then scroll back
up
to read your post. While it didn't kill me, it certainly wasn't
convenient.


Your answer implies your unable to follow accepted procedures.

The reason I didn't snip part of the quotes was to show you how
confusing your posts will become as the post continues.

I'm having trouble believing you know about anything you post with this
attitude.

There is a reason for bottom posting.

After a while your posts will be ignored because others will find your
posts too hard to follow.

Please read the following. It will help you with usenet.

http://www.caliburn.nl/topposting.html
http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting.html
http://www.netmeister.org/news/learn2quote.html

HTH [Hope This/That Helps]

snip

thanks for any and all advice.

Ya just gotta love that any and all part... :-) Kinda like the part of
my job description that says "and other duties as assigned"...

Ah the faithful and the flighty you get em all on here. One of my
favorites is the on going battle of Top post/bottom post... Just a bit
more entertaining than the Church of "I hate Crapsman"....

But enough of that... I'm a lathe dabbler myself and I've learned thru
trial and error and input from here and other sources. Any time you
pick up a new tool it does help to seek advice from somebody who's done
it. The posts above cover anything I could share from my limited book
o knowledge.

One thing I'll rehash is the face shield (and you may already have one
and use it faithfully) but we can never cover safety enough. That and
loose shirts or hair. I was wearing a long sleeve shirt one winter day
with the cuffs open and loose while working on the lathe. Let's just
say it was almost an educational experience.

Have fun, try different stuff, and don't be afraid to ask for help on
the rec... You just have to ignore the crankier ones occasionally...
;-)

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 11:17:44 GMT, Wilson wrote:

[top posted because I can]

can you guys take your ****ing match over to atl.web.manners, please? Thanks...

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 03:39:35 +0000, CW wrote:

You have to do that once per thread. Bottom posting forces you to scroll
through EVERY post to get past the stuff you've already read. Waste your
time once or over and over again?

"TBM" wrote in message
...
How is top posting convenient?!?!? I had to scroll all the way down to the
bottom of your message to see what you were replying to, then scroll back
up
to read your post. While it didn't kill me, it certainly wasn't
convenient.


Your answer implies your unable to follow accepted procedures.

The reason I didn't snip part of the quotes was to show you how
confusing your posts will become as the post continues.

I'm having trouble believing you know about anything you post with this
attitude.

There is a reason for bottom posting.

After a while your posts will be ignored because others will find your
posts too hard to follow.

Please read the following. It will help you with usenet.

http://www.caliburn.nl/topposting.html
http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting.html
http://www.netmeister.org/news/learn2quote.html

HTH [Hope This/That Helps]




[bottom posted for equality]

can you guys take your ****ing match over to atl.web.manners, please? Thanks...
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 08:21:14 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 11:17:44 GMT, Wilson wrote:

[top posted because I can]

can you guys take your ****ing match over to atl.web.manners, please? Thanks...

[snipped, which bottom posters never can figure out how to do]

[bottom posted for equality]

can you guys take your ****ing match over to atl.web.manners, please?

No. Because bottom posting is no more a matter of "web manners" than a
shaved pussy is a matter of good grooming.


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

You can do something wrong for a hundred years and it will still be wrong.
Bottom posting made sense years ago on slow connections little traffic.
Anybody with normal recollection does not need to be reminded of what was
said previously.
Things change, deal with it.
"Wilson" wrote in message
. ..

Your answer implies your unable to follow accepted procedures.

"CW" wrote in message
t...
You can do something wrong for a hundred years and it will still be wrong.
Bottom posting made sense years ago on slow connections little traffic.
Anybody with normal recollection does not need to be reminded of what was
said previously.
Things change, deal with it.
"Wilson" wrote in message
. ..

Your answer implies your unable to follow accepted procedures.



You must have an amazing memory if you can remember what was said previously
in every post.

It has nothing to do with slow internet or little traffic. It has to do with
how conversations should flow. Do you read a newspaper from bottom to top?

No, of course not. That's exactly what bottom posters force you to do. So,
you see my point.

"Locutus" wrote in message
...

Do you read a newspaper from bottom to top?

"CW" wrote in message
. net...
No, of course not. That's exactly what bottom posters force you to do. So,
you see my point.

"Locutus" wrote in message
...

Do you read a newspaper from bottom to top?





I had to read your reply from the bottom up in order to figure out what you
were talking about.

Thanks for proving my point.

Of couse now everyone will have to read THIS post from the middle to the top
and then to the bottom.

This really isn't that complicated to understand.

"CW" wrote in message
. net...
No, of course not. That's exactly what bottom posters force you to do. So,
you see my point.

"Locutus" wrote in message
...

Do you read a newspaper from bottom to top?




Read this:
http://www.xs4all.nl/%7ewijnands/nnq/nquote.html

CW wrote:


Absolutely agree.

I had to read your reply from the bottom up in order to figure out what
you
were talking about.

Your memory is that short? I'm sure you have found workarounds to deal with
your handicap. Good for you.


Of couse now everyone will have to read THIS post from the middle to the
top
and then to the bottom.

If you had posted correctly, at the top, there wouldn't be that problem.

This really isn't that complicated to understand.

No, it isn't. Keep practicing, you'll get it right.

CW wrote:
You have to do that once per thread. Bottom posting forces you to scroll
through EVERY post to get past the stuff you've already read. Waste your
time once or over and over again?

"TBM" wrote in message
...
How is top posting convenient?!?!? I had to scroll all the way down to the
bottom of your message to see what you were replying to, then scroll back
up
to read your post. While it didn't kill me, it certainly wasn't
convenient.



You have to do what once per thread?

Bottom posting doesn't force you to scroll through every article, only
the text that has eben quoted by the current author. When I do that,
I glance through the text so that when I arrive at the new text I
understand the context.

--

FF

CW wrote:


I had to read your reply from the bottom up in order to figure out what
you
were talking about.

Your memory is that short? I'm sure you have found workarounds to deal with
your handicap. Good for you.

Memory of what, exactly?

--

FF

"CW" wrote in message
.net...

This really isn't that complicated to understand.

No, it isn't. Keep practicing, you'll get it right.


If you like being ignorant of proper usenet etiquette, there isn't much I
can do about that. At least I tried to educate you.

But even if you don't understand why you should post that way, out of
courtesy to others, you should conform to long standing protocol. You know,
the whole "When in Rome..." thing.

But pretending that YOU are right while 95% of the other people on usenet
are wrong, is somewhat pompous in my opinion.

Another Alzheimer's sufferer. How many are on this group?

wrote in message
ups.com...

Memory of what, exactly?

--

FF

CW wrote:
Another Alzheimer's sufferer. How many are on this group?

wrote in message
ups.com...

Memory of what, exactly?


*I* don't remember any previous mention of an Alzheimer's sufferer.

--

FF

CW wrote:
Another Alzheimer's sufferer. How many are on this group?


How long is it going to take for you to figure out you are trying to
**** up a rope?

Lew

wrote:

I think a table saw or handheld router is much more dangerous than a
typical lathe.

There's one big difference between lathes and saws.

With my saw, I avoid doing dangerous stuff. A "competent" sawyer is one
who can (pretty much) simply not have bad things happen to them.

With a lathe I march straight into the worst case accidents and I keep
doing them -- I turn poorly balanced green wood, poorly supported and
likely to split or burst. I just don't know any way to avoid this (If
I'm going to keep using rough logs).

So my primary safety measure for the table saw is knowledge, but my
primary safety measure for the lathe is about _expecting_ the accident
and being sufficiently well armoured to survive it (and standing to one
side whenever possible).

As Conover said, "don't hold anything in a jam chuck that you're afraid
to be hit on the head with".



Even "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" covers the very basics of
turning.

Not very well though. You're much better off with some of the other
basic turning texts (I'd suggest Rowley's "Woodturning: A Foundation
Course" or even Conover's "The Lathe Book" in preference). Frid's
description is accurate, but it's terse and he doesn't emphasise a few
things that really need emphasis for beginners. Rub that bevel before
lifting the gouge up to cut! -- Although he does stress the evils of
over-reliance on scrapers, the usefulness of the skew, and the vital
importance of learning a planing cut from the start.

First of all...

To all of you who offered me great advice to get into turning on my new
lathe, thanks very much.. I've learned alot, and will approach it with a
greater eye to safety.

and to those of you who let this degrade into a silly ****ing match...

http://carcino.gen.nz/images/image.p...?cb=1115204527

Cheers
Mike

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
.net...
CW wrote:
Another Alzheimer's sufferer. How many are on this group?


How long is it going to take for you to figure out you are trying to ****
up a rope?

Lew

"MikeMac" wrote in message
. ..
First of all...

To all of you who offered me great advice to get into turning on my new
lathe, thanks very much.. I've learned alot, and will approach it with a
greater eye to safety.

and to those of you who let this degrade into a silly ****ing match...

http://carcino.gen.nz/images/image.p...?cb=1115204527

Cheers
Mike


After all of this you would think you would have figured out you shouldn't
top post....

Unless you want to do it right.

"TBM" wrote in message
...


After all of this you would think you would have figured out you shouldn't
top post....

"CW" wrote in message
link.net...
Unless you want to do it right.


You are making yourself look like a fool. Any idiot, which you obviously
are, could see why everyone should reply in the same fashion so posts
maintain a chronological order. Since the VAST MAJORITY of Usenet posters
bottom post, then logic says you should too.

Unless you are suggesting that the rest of the world should change for you?

I think you are just an inconsiderate jerk who doesn't care if your laziness
inconveniences others.

I can just sense the blood pressure rising.

"TBM" wrote in message
...

"CW" wrote in message
link.net...
Unless you want to do it right.


You are making yourself look like a fool. Any idiot, which you obviously
are, could see why everyone should reply in the same fashion so posts
maintain a chronological order. Since the VAST MAJORITY of Usenet posters
bottom post, then logic says you should too.

Unless you are suggesting that the rest of the world should change for
you?

I think you are just an inconsiderate jerk who doesn't care if your
laziness
inconveniences others.