I have a Sears "Professional" 15" variable speed lathe.

Model 351.217.156

I've had it for about 4 years, but to be honest I've used my small
Jet Mini lathe a lot more.

I've turned maybe 5 bowls, a few wands and other spindle turning on it.

So, today I put on another wand, turn the power switch on, and it's
going at full tilt (2000 rpm). So, while it's running, it start turning
it down to 400 (it's slow speed), partway down the knob feels loose, and
when I remove the cover, I see that the belt is loose, and if I
turn it down to 400 it's so loose the spindle stops entirely, even
though the motor is still spinning at full speed.

How easily is this fixed? I knew that a sears lathe would not last
as long as others, but with light use I figured it would last a
LOT longer.

And advice would be appreciated,

Phil

Phil if your lathe has the "reeves drive" setup, than you probably have
the sheaves not moving back and forth, you will have to get some light
oil on the shafts and try to move the sheaves, the lubricant that was
on there is either gone or gotten hard and gummed in those 4 years, so
get it clean and lubricate it, that should be all that's needed IMO.
Just don't get a lot of oil/grease on there after you have it working
again, check your owners manual, a dry graphite lubricant might do it.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum28.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Unknown wrote:
I have a Sears "Professional" 15" variable speed lathe.

Model 351.217.156

I've had it for about 4 years, but to be honest I've used my small
Jet Mini lathe a lot more.

I've turned maybe 5 bowls, a few wands and other spindle turning on it.

So, today I put on another wand, turn the power switch on, and it's
going at full tilt (2000 rpm). So, while it's running, it start turning
it down to 400 (it's slow speed), partway down the knob feels loose, and
when I remove the cover, I see that the belt is loose, and if I
turn it down to 400 it's so loose the spindle stops entirely, even
though the motor is still spinning at full speed.

How easily is this fixed? I knew that a sears lathe would not last
as long as others, but with light use I figured it would last a
LOT longer.

And advice would be appreciated,

Phil

Unknown wrote:
I have a Sears "Professional" 15" variable speed lathe.

Model 351.217.156
Phil:

Do a search on my 'ID' which is 'pankr003' and you should find a series
of replies for when I asked the same type of question. I pulled the
top pulley apart which I hope you can avoid to get it to work since it
has a heavy spring holding it in. The people who said it needed
lubrication were correct but I could not get the lubrication under the
pulley without taking it out.

Well, I now understand how these things work. And I got the top
pulley free finally, cleaned it out, lubricated, etc. But I'm
thinking I need one of those "mechanical gear pullers" if I ever
want to get this thing back together (yes, I had to take it
apart, as it needed more than just a "little" lubrication to
get it loose.

Any advice?

Phil W.

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 13:02:28 -0700, warpedwoodturner wrote:


Unknown wrote:
I have a Sears "Professional" 15" variable speed lathe.

Model 351.217.156
Phil:

Do a search on my 'ID' which is 'pankr003' and you should find a series
of replies for when I asked the same type of question. I pulled the
top pulley apart which I hope you can avoid to get it to work since it
has a heavy spring holding it in. The people who said it needed
lubrication were correct but I could not get the lubrication under the
pulley without taking it out.

Well, thank you all, I was able to get it fixed.

The only two pains are

1. I had to use a piece of poplar with a 1 3/8" hole in it
a belt clamp and a WHOLE lot of pressure

2. I see no way to lubricate this without taking the )&%*(^%&^% thing
apart again. Any suggestions?

Again, thanks. It's great to have a working lathe again,

Phil W.

You will be happier in the future if you make this cleaning operation a part
of scheduled maintenance, It is SO much easier to do BEFORE it's stuck.
DAMHIKT.

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 16:54:37 +0000, Leo Lichtman wrote:

You will be happier in the future if you make this cleaning operation a part
of scheduled maintenance, It is SO much easier to do BEFORE it's stuck.
DAMHIKT.

Agreed, but HOW? I can't see ANY way of cleaning/lubricating it
without taking it apart again, and that's a major pain, especially
to get it back together.

Phil W.

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 06:19:40 -0700, warpedwoodturner wrote:

Phill:

I was not strong enough to do what you did so I built a strange jig
with two boards. One end may have been like board you used to push the
spring and 'cap' back on. The other end was cut to go in back of the
other pulley and around the shaft. I had three bolts and wing nuts in
the boards. I could then tighten the nuts to pull the boards
together and pull the spring tight. I wore a face shield since I
thought the whole thing might fly apart a foot from my face. But the
contraption did work for squeezing the spring tight enough so I could
get the ring pin (not sure if that term is correct) off and back on.
Perhaps 4 bolts would be safer. There is a lot of pressure on the
spring. I am not sure if this method is a good idea but it did work.
Some sort of gear puller might be safer.

pankr003

Actually, I used a board with a 1 3/8" hole, and a belt clamp looped
around each end of the board. Problem with a gear puller is that it
uses a central 'screw' to apply pressure, which wouldn't work in this
case.

Phil W.

"Unknown" wrote: Agreed, but HOW? (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Well, I have zero experience with your lathe--maybe someone who owns one can
chime in. But on my Jet 1236, which had a Reeves drive with the same
"syndrome," I would just wipe the pulley shaft, run the speed up and down
to reach as much of the surface as possible, and apply a little *WAX.* I
believe wax will help it slide without the tendency to attract wood dust.
Hope this helps.

Even if you do have to take it apart, it's going to be a lot easier if you
do it before things are stuck. Hope this helps.

Unknown wrote:
I have a Sears "Professional" 15" variable speed lathe.

Model 351.217.156

I've had it for about 4 years, but to be honest I've used my small
Jet Mini lathe a lot more.

I've turned maybe 5 bowls, a few wands and other spindle turning on it.

So, today I put on another wand, turn the power switch on, and it's
going at full tilt (2000 rpm). So, while it's running, it start turning
it down to 400 (it's slow speed), partway down the knob feels loose, and
when I remove the cover, I see that the belt is loose, and if I
turn it down to 400 it's so loose the spindle stops entirely, even
though the motor is still spinning at full speed.

How easily is this fixed? I knew that a sears lathe would not last
as long as others, but with light use I figured it would last a
LOT longer.

And advice would be appreciated,

Phil

I happen to have a real sh**load of experience with this lathe, I own
one and it was the single biggest mistake I ever made when I put the
money down for it. I won't go into all the specifics but here is what
works for me.

To remove the pulley, get a threaded 5/16" rod long enough to reach
through the headstock. On one end, screw on a nut just enough that the
rod threads start to show. Use a pair of pliers and scrunch up the
threads so the nut never comes off. Get a big flat washer, 5/16" ID, 1
1/2" to 2" diameter. Drill 2 holes...ah crap. It's too complicated to
explain in words. I will post photos of the tool I use to remove the
damn thing on my website tonight. Sears, I found out, actually reef the
thing off the way you guys have described. It seems there's not a brain
in the group there that could figure out this simple set up!

As to the lubrication, the upper pulley is the one that needs the most
help. While you have it off using your new tool, look at the keyway cut
into the hole. Measure, approximately, 3 equal spaces around the hole
and drill 3 holes right through. Put the pulley back on. CAUTION, it
has been suggested you oil the shafts. That is what you will be doing
but beware that if you put enough oil on, it will splash onto the drive
belt and I don't need to tell you that a nice film of oil between a
belt and a pulley might not yield the grip you wanted! Can you spell
s.l.i.p.?

Check my site tonight. I'll take pictures today and post them under
....mmmh, let's see...Craftsman Heartache! That's appropriate. Let me
know if you have more questions.

Mike

Mike R. Courteau wrote:
toyma_ should be interpreted as toymaker

To remove the pulley, get a threaded 5/16" rod long enough to reach
through the headstock. On one end, screw on a nut just enough that the
rod threads start to show. Use a pair of pliers and scrunch up the
threads so the nut never comes off. Get a big flat washer, 5/16" ID, 1
1/2" to 2" diameter. Drill 2 holes...ah crap. It's too complicated to
explain in words. I will post photos of the tool I use to remove the
damn thing on my website tonight. Sears, I found out, actually reef the
thing off the way you guys have described. It seems there's not a brain
in the group there that could figure out this simple set up!

As to the lubrication, the upper pulley is the one that needs the most
help. While you have it off using your new tool, look at the keyway cut
into the hole. Measure, approximately, 3 equal spaces around the hole
and drill 3 holes right through. Put the pulley back on. CAUTION, it
has been suggested you oil the shafts. That is what you will be doing
but beware that if you put enough oil on, it will splash onto the drive
belt and I don't need to tell you that a nice film of oil between a
belt and a pulley might not yield the grip you wanted! Can you spell
s.l.i.p.?

Check my site tonight. I'll take pictures today and post them under
...mmmh, let's see...Craftsman Heartache! That's appropriate. Let me
know if you have more questions.

Mike



Excellent idea, and much easier to do than what I came up with,
though I would not have had the materials on hand and at 3am (when
I finally got it fixed) there were no stores open.

I may someday be brave enough to take it apart again and drill
those oil holes you discussed. A nice idea. So.....
What do you do when the flimsy arm that tightens the tailstock in place
snaps off? (Once this lathe is truly dead, I'm going to get a
jet, or maybe really spend the money and get a Nova, no more sears)

Thanks again,
Phil W.

I have had the same problem. The arm snapped off and left the threads
into the tailstock piece. I used a drill to drill enough of a hole in
the threaded part to insert a screw and using CA glue jammed the screw
into the hole. I then unscrewed the whole thing out. The arm I just
ground down slowly until it was the right size to re-thread and put it
back in. It still does keep coming loose and I have to tighten it up
every so often.

Like you, I'm waiting for the thing to die completely before getting a
real lathe. Purchasing this unit was a bad mistake.

Mike

Unknown wrote:

To remove the pulley, get a threaded 5/16" rod long enough to reach
through the headstock. On one end, screw on a nut just enough that the
rod threads start to show. Use a pair of pliers and scrunch up the
threads so the nut never comes off. Get a big flat washer, 5/16" ID, 1
1/2" to 2" diameter. Drill 2 holes...ah crap. It's too complicated to
explain in words. I will post photos of the tool I use to remove the
damn thing on my website tonight. Sears, I found out, actually reef the
thing off the way you guys have described. It seems there's not a brain
in the group there that could figure out this simple set up!

As to the lubrication, the upper pulley is the one that needs the most
help. While you have it off using your new tool, look at the keyway cut
into the hole. Measure, approximately, 3 equal spaces around the hole
and drill 3 holes right through. Put the pulley back on. CAUTION, it
has been suggested you oil the shafts. That is what you will be doing
but beware that if you put enough oil on, it will splash onto the drive
belt and I don't need to tell you that a nice film of oil between a
belt and a pulley might not yield the grip you wanted! Can you spell
s.l.i.p.?

Check my site tonight. I'll take pictures today and post them under
...mmmh, let's see...Craftsman Heartache! That's appropriate. Let me
know if you have more questions.

Mike



Excellent idea, and much easier to do than what I came up with,
though I would not have had the materials on hand and at 3am (when
I finally got it fixed) there were no stores open.

I may someday be brave enough to take it apart again and drill
those oil holes you discussed. A nice idea. So.....
What do you do when the flimsy arm that tightens the tailstock in place
snaps off? (Once this lathe is truly dead, I'm going to get a
jet, or maybe really spend the money and get a Nova, no more sears)

Thanks again,
Phil W.