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Default Help: Sears Lathe Belt Drive Slippage



To remove the pulley, get a threaded 5/16" rod long enough to reach
through the headstock. On one end, screw on a nut just enough that the
rod threads start to show. Use a pair of pliers and scrunch up the
threads so the nut never comes off. Get a big flat washer, 5/16" ID, 1
1/2" to 2" diameter. Drill 2 holes...ah crap. It's too complicated to
explain in words. I will post photos of the tool I use to remove the
damn thing on my website tonight. Sears, I found out, actually reef the
thing off the way you guys have described. It seems there's not a brain
in the group there that could figure out this simple set up!

As to the lubrication, the upper pulley is the one that needs the most
help. While you have it off using your new tool, look at the keyway cut
into the hole. Measure, approximately, 3 equal spaces around the hole
and drill 3 holes right through. Put the pulley back on. CAUTION, it
has been suggested you oil the shafts. That is what you will be doing
but beware that if you put enough oil on, it will splash onto the drive
belt and I don't need to tell you that a nice film of oil between a
belt and a pulley might not yield the grip you wanted! Can you spell
s.l.i.p.?

Check my site tonight. I'll take pictures today and post them under
...mmmh, let's see...Craftsman Heartache! That's appropriate. Let me
know if you have more questions.

Mike



Excellent idea, and much easier to do than what I came up with,
though I would not have had the materials on hand and at 3am (when
I finally got it fixed) there were no stores open.

I may someday be brave enough to take it apart again and drill
those oil holes you discussed. A nice idea. So.....
What do you do when the flimsy arm that tightens the tailstock in place
snaps off? (Once this lathe is truly dead, I'm going to get a
jet, or maybe really spend the money and get a Nova, no more sears)

Thanks again,
Phil W.