Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters.

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Bill Leonhardt
 
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Default Lathe Stand Design

Hi Turners,

I generally hang out at rec.woodworking ,but I have a lathe-specific
question, so I thought it best to post it here. I recently acquired a
Rockwell model 46-111 lathe which I take as a 11" swing (14" bowls) and 48"
center-to-center. The lathe doesn't have a stand so I'll make one for it.
I know I can cobble a stand together that would be adequate, however it
would be really good to see designs that others have used. I'm sure there
are many clever designs out there, so please point me to a web page ( or
email me a picture) of the stand you have made for your lathe(s).

In designing a stand for myself, I will try to incorporate the following:

1. Make the stand so that you can add lots of weight to keep the vibration
down.
2. Make the motor mount so that it is easy to change speeds.
3. Possibly I will add wheels so I can move the lathe if needed.

Can anyone add to this list of considerations?

Lastly, I will need to add a motor. For a lathe this size, what H.P. would
be customary?
1725 or 3450 rpm?

"Reply to" doesn't work. You can email me at:

WJLeonhardt-at-bnl-dot-gov-the
rest is junk.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

ps I'm not a heavy-duty turner, but I would like to develop the skill
needed to add turned parts to my furniture.


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Derek Andrews
 
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Default Lathe Stand Design

Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In designing a stand for myself, I will try to incorporate the following:
1. Make the stand so that you can add lots of weight to keep the vibration
down.
2. Make the motor mount so that it is easy to change speeds.
3. Possibly I will add wheels so I can move the lathe if needed.
Can anyone add to this list of considerations?


You can read aboout my lathe bench he
http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com/wo...athe-bench.htm

I agree with George that a wide footprint is important.

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com - a blog for my customers
http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com/TheToolrest/ - a blog for woodturners








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Lobby Dosser
 
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Default Lathe Stand Design

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

In designing a stand for myself, I will try to incorporate the
following:

1. Make the stand so that you can add lots of weight to keep the
vibration down.


Boxed in area at the bottom so you can use sand. Many tire dealerships
have sand in tubes pretty cheap. Normally used for adding weight and for
emergency traction in winter. A clean solution for the lathe.

2. Make the motor mount so that it is easy to change speeds.
3. Possibly I will add wheels so I can move the lathe if needed.


You're adding weight so that it will not move. Not sure I'd want wheels
on a lathe that would see heavy use. That said, you should find some way
to allow the wheels to retract when not needed, or use a mobile base - a
heavy duty mobile base.

Someone mentioned a 1/2hp motor. I'd go with a 3/4 or higher.




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Joe Fleming
 
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Default Lathe Stand Design

Bill,

Woodsmith magazine has a lathe stand as the feature item way back
around issue #12. You can adapt the dimensions for your lathe. I
built one for my first lathe and it meets all your requirements.

I made it out of three layers of 3/4" MDF trimmed in maple or poplar.
My modifications to the basic design: Changed the dimensions for my
lathe. Cut a hole in the top on the left for the motor under the
bench. Hinged the motor like a contractor tablesaw motor to tension
the belt and change belt positions. Made a false front door to look
like a pair of drawers. Two drawers on the right instead of one. Made
the sand box deeper for more sand.

Joe Fleming - San Diego

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Bruce Ferguson
 
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Default Lathe Stand Design

Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hi Turners,

I generally hang out at rec.woodworking ,but I have a lathe-specific
question, so I thought it best to post it here. I recently acquired a
Rockwell model 46-111 lathe which I take as a 11" swing (14" bowls) and 48"
center-to-center. The lathe doesn't have a stand so I'll make one for it.
I know I can cobble a stand together that would be adequate, however it
would be really good to see designs that others have used. I'm sure there
are many clever designs out there, so please point me to a web page ( or
email me a picture) of the stand you have made for your lathe(s).

In designing a stand for myself, I will try to incorporate the following:

1. Make the stand so that you can add lots of weight to keep the vibration
down.
2. Make the motor mount so that it is easy to change speeds.
3. Possibly I will add wheels so I can move the lathe if needed.

Can anyone add to this list of considerations?

Lastly, I will need to add a motor. For a lathe this size, what H.P. would
be customary?
1725 or 3450 rpm?

"Reply to" doesn't work. You can email me at:

WJLeonhardt-at-bnl-dot-gov-the
rest is junk.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

ps I'm not a heavy-duty turner, but I would like to develop the skill
needed to add turned parts to my furniture.


Take a look at Keith Rowley's book Woodturning-- A Foundation Course. On
page 22 he shows how to make a lathe bench. Try a book store, Rocklers
or Woodcraft. If they have it you can check it out to see if it fits
your needs. It is also a good turning book.

Bruce


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Bill Leonhardt
 
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Default Lathe Stand Design


Bill Leonhardt wrote:
SNIP

The lathe doesn't have a stand so I'll make one for it.
I know I can cobble a stand together that would be adequate, however it
would be really good to see designs that others have used. I'm sure there
are many clever designs out there, so please point me to a web page ( or
email me a picture) of the stand you have made for your lathe(s).


Thanks George, Derek, Lobby, Joe and Bruce for your replys. I would
have thanked you sooner, but I lost news group access for a few
days...so it goes.

I really appreciate the advice about being sure the "stance" is
adequate. I can see where that is important. Also, I had planned on
adding weight to the stand via cement blocks (so I could remove them
easily for moving), however, after thinking about it for a while, the
sand would probably be better at damping vibration.

Lastly, a little thing like leaving clearance under the bed for
clean-up wasn't obvious to me and putting it in, I'm sure, will make my
life a lot easier.

Thanks again,

Bill Leonhardt

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Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
George
 
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Default Lathe Stand Design


"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
ups.com...

Bill Leonhardt wrote:
SNIP

The lathe doesn't have a stand so I'll make one for it.
I know I can cobble a stand together that would be adequate, however it
would be really good to see designs that others have used. I'm sure
there
are many clever designs out there, so please point me to a web page ( or
email me a picture) of the stand you have made for your lathe(s).


Thanks George, Derek, Lobby, Joe and Bruce for your replys. I would
have thanked you sooner, but I lost news group access for a few
days...so it goes.

I really appreciate the advice about being sure the "stance" is
adequate. I can see where that is important. Also, I had planned on
adding weight to the stand via cement blocks (so I could remove them
easily for moving), however, after thinking about it for a while, the
sand would probably be better at damping vibration.


Best way to dampen vibration is to make the stand rigid. Proper bracing
will reduce the elasticity to about zero. Weight just holds it to the floor
when you're swinging an unbalanced load, which is also why you want the legs
to splay out in the front. Of course wood has been turned over wooden beds
for thousands of years, so maybe "vibration dampening" only becomes
necessary with excessive speed.

If you consider that the off-balance load accelerates toward you, reaching
maximum leverage at 9:00, but maximum force somewhere closer to 7:30
(velocity squared, you remember), you can see that you want your weight
placed to the rear and low. What it wants to do is lift the rear legs. You
can take advantage of the CG shift temporarily by wedging the forward legs
upward on piece you can't get close to balance.


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