Any one tried the Utility Grip 4 jaw Lathe Chuck (includes 2 chucks) at
Penn industries?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/cug3418.html

Trying to decide what to buy for my Jet Mini.

Mark

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/


Maquah

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/


Maquah

"Mark Tetrault" wrote in message
...
Any one tried the Utility Grip 4 jaw Lathe Chuck (includes 2 chucks) at
Penn industries?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/cug3418.html

Trying to decide what to buy for my Jet Mini.

Mixed reviews over at http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/turning.pl?index

On 27 Nov 2005 14:18:11 -0800, "maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

I would buy the best one you can afford. The Jet Mini is more than
capable of spinning virtually any chuck out there comfortably. I have
a SuperNova I've been using for over 4 years, which works well, but
there are plenty of others out there that would work, too. You're
really only limited by your budget, rather than any limitations of the
lathe.



--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

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In article .com,
"maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/

The Teknatools Midi works well for me, plus the cole jaws for it will
clear your bed (unlike the cole jaws for the SN2)

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article .com,
"maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/

The Teknatools Midi works well for me, plus the cole jaws for it will
clear your bed (unlike the cole jaws for the SN2)

Does it use tommy bars or is it an allen tool type to open/close it?

Tnx,
Mark

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 05:27:14 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg
wrote:


The Teknatools Midi works well for me, plus the cole jaws for it will
clear your bed (unlike the cole jaws for the SN2)

Ralph,

The mini cole jaws, which fit any of the Nova/Supernova series, will
comfortably clear the bed of the Mini, also. AAMOF, I believe they
are the same jaws.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 14:07:19 -0700, Mark Tetrault
wrote:

Any one tried the Utility Grip 4 jaw Lathe Chuck (includes 2 chucks) at
Penn industries?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/cug3418.html

Trying to decide what to buy for my Jet Mini.

Mark

Just a personal opinion, but I bought a Oneway Talon for my shopsmith a year or
so ago.. love it!
When I got my jet mini, I bought an adapter for $20 and I was turning on the
mini...
I bought a jet 1442 in June and just screwed the chuck off the mini and onto the
new lathe...
I don't know if this is an endorsement or not, but I just got my 2nd Talon last
month so that I have one on each lathe...

They AREN'T cheap, but I figured that it was a long term investment and $200
wasn't gonna bankrupt me...
I have no experience with any other chuck, so this is NOT an objective post..
*g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On 27 Nov 2005 14:18:16 -0800, "maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/


Maquah

THere are several "how to" web pages, but basically, you either leave a short
stub on the end of your work, called a "tenon", which is gripped in the jaws
like a big drill bit,
or you turn a "recess" into the end of the work, which the closed chuck jaws
open out into to grip it... sort of like expanding a sanding drum to hold the
paper on..

There are also chuck screws or pin chucks, (which I use a lot), which are held
in the chuck jaws and screw or wedge into a small hole drilled into the wood,
usually used on the part of the wood that will be hollowed or cut off...




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
THere are several "how to" web pages, but basically, you either leave a
short
stub on the end of your work, called a "tenon", which is gripped in the
jaws
like a big drill bit,

It's not the grip on the tenon but the registry of the nose of the jaws to
the piece which counts. As with a mortise and tenon joint, the shoulders,
where the load is spread over a wider area, is where the real resistance to
racking lies. Keeps the piece from flopping itself loose. If you have a
dovetail tenon, you can have the jaws of the chuck draw up for you rather
than having to press and tighten.

or you turn a "recess" into the end of the work, which the closed chuck
jaws
open out into to grip it... sort of like expanding a sanding drum to hold
the
paper on..


Actually, you make an undercut mortise to accept a wedged tenon. The
interior doesn't "grip," it draws the piece tight up against the nose of the
jaws by wedging action. In this case the shoulders are inside the recess,
not outside, but they still work the same way.

There are also chuck screws or pin chucks, (which I use a lot), which are
held
in the chuck jaws and screw or wedge into a small hole drilled into the
wood,
usually used on the part of the wood that will be hollowed or cut off...

In article ,
Mark Tetrault wrote:

Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article .com,
"maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/

The Teknatools Midi works well for me, plus the cole jaws for it will
clear your bed (unlike the cole jaws for the SN2)

Does it use tommy bars or is it an allen tool type to open/close it?

Unfortunately tommy bars

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 16:48:48 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
THere are several "how to" web pages, but basically, you either leave a
short
stub on the end of your work, called a "tenon", which is gripped in the
jaws
like a big drill bit,

It's not the grip on the tenon but the registry of the nose of the jaws to
the piece which counts. As with a mortise and tenon joint, the shoulders,
where the load is spread over a wider area, is where the real resistance to
racking lies. Keeps the piece from flopping itself loose. If you have a
dovetail tenon, you can have the jaws of the chuck draw up for you rather
than having to press and tighten.

or you turn a "recess" into the end of the work, which the closed chuck
jaws
open out into to grip it... sort of like expanding a sanding drum to hold
the
paper on..


Actually, you make an undercut mortise to accept a wedged tenon. The
interior doesn't "grip," it draws the piece tight up against the nose of the
jaws by wedging action. In this case the shoulders are inside the recess,
not outside, but they still work the same way.

There are also chuck screws or pin chucks, (which I use a lot), which are
held
in the chuck jaws and screw or wedge into a small hole drilled into the
wood,
usually used on the part of the wood that will be hollowed or cut off...


I was trying to keep it simple for a beginner, George... He can read a tech
manual later...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

I was trying to keep it simple for a beginner, George... He can read a
tech
manual later...


Unfortunately, Mac, you've given inappropriate, not simple information.
Which is why it's important that he should understand what's happening.

You're an old hand, and when your tenon-hold feels floppy, you know enough
to loosen a bit, jam the piece back into register with the jaws, maybe
rotate a bit to avoid crushed areas, then tighten. The reason you do this,
of course, is that you know tight isn't what really counts, rather registry
of chuck nose and tenon shoulder. Tight can have a half inch of runout if
only one point registers.

Same applies to the interior dovetail.

You want to think of what's important first - registry. No sense learning
it wrong if you're just beginning.

Once you understand this, it's also easier to understand why wider jaws,
though they grip as deep, are more appropriate for heavier loads.

Mac thanks for the information, much appreciated, have tried to send
two responses with system failure, not sure what is happening here.
Now have to go back and order the chuck I want, however, forgot what
damn favorites page it was in.

You have also given me more info to peruse. The chuck screws and pin
chucks. But first I will look and do the chuck thingy first.

Got to get a new chain saw as I found three big maples out in the woods
with burls all the way up the trees. So, guess who is coming home to
dinner? Gots to make some more fire starter materials from them.

Again, thanks for the help. This is one good group and I do enjoy
hearing all the comments and information. May have to lurk here for
awhile you know.

Maquah

Hi George

You are the one that knows best and all ???
Only your way is the right way ???

Thought we had been over this before.
The Oneway patented design has proven to be far superior in holding wood
turnings.

For those that like to see the holding power of the Oneway Jaws, a link
that shows there is no crushing and the hold is unequaled by any tenon
shape jaw, which is the reason many always have to use the tailstock to
hold secure.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum26.html

Have a nice day
Leo Van Der Loo

George wrote:



Unfortunately, Mac, you've given inappropriate, not simple information.

"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message
...
Hi George

You are the one that knows best and all ???
Only your way is the right way ???

Thought we had been over this before.
The Oneway patented design has proven to be far superior in holding wood
turnings.

For those that like to see the holding power of the Oneway Jaws, a link
that shows there is no crushing and the hold is unequaled by any tenon
shape jaw, which is the reason many always have to use the tailstock to
hold secure.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum26.html


Well, Leo, you can believe what you want, and you certainly are much less
flexible - dare I say know-it-all? - in your reply than I in my assertion,
though you might want to cite your methods of "proof" sometime. Frankly, I
think it's subjective. There are many fine chucks out there, though only
one for you, it appears. Intellectual rigidity noted.

For the benefit of those who are not so "tight" however, I'd like to review
some basic concepts. I maintain that all that's required of a squeeze is to
maintain the nose of the jaws in a constant relationship to the work. As I
noted with Mac, habitually squeezing harder when some form of misalignment
occurs is more likely to continue or exacerbate trouble than cure it,
because you can squeeze a misaligned piece just as hard as an aligned one.

I would like to call your attention, once more, to the reality that the
strength of wood is measured in resistance to force per unit area. If you
diminish the contact area, as you must when you grip a circular object with
non-circular jaws, the same force which would be harmlessly distributed over
a broad area can exceed the force required to deform the contacted surface.
That surface, once deformed, cannot be put back, because wood is more air
than solid.

The mindset of the chuck user should be toward maintaining the _original_
position on the piece, which is best accomplished by creating and
maintaining as much contact area as possible, to distribute both rotational
stresses and the occasional catch broadly. That's why optimum hold is
achieved when the size of the tenon or mortise closely matches the size of
the jaws.

Of course, it is also true that resistance to cutting force is better when
the lever arm perpendicular to the axis of rotation is greater. Larger
diameter jaws allow not only more area in contact - load distribution - they
also create a wider footprint in the load direction. Easy to see why this
works when you attempt a narrow base on a broad form, though we do have the
option of extra weight in the bottom to lower the center of gravity on a
finished piece. Which personal choice sometimes leads us to use a mortise
rather than a tenon, so we can get the interior depth and exterior sweep we
want. We know that we sacrifice leverage, but we also know we can gain
extra help by employing the tailstock - always a good idea - or a steady to
distribute the load even beyond the chuck. Which, once again, provides a
lower force on any unit of area. Couple these with skillful technique, and
the force applied to "grip" becomes almost insignificant

In short, in spite of your attack on me, I am only the messenger,
recounting the truths of physics and wood technology. Take up your argument
with Newton and Archimedes, and the folks who test strength of woods at the
FPL.

On 29 Nov 2005 12:03:03 -0800, "maquah" wrote:

Mac thanks for the information, much appreciated, have tried to send
two responses with system failure, not sure what is happening here.
Now have to go back and order the chuck I want, however, forgot what
damn favorites page it was in.

You have also given me more info to peruse. The chuck screws and pin
chucks. But first I will look and do the chuck thingy first.

Got to get a new chain saw as I found three big maples out in the woods
with burls all the way up the trees. So, guess who is coming home to
dinner? Gots to make some more fire starter materials from them.

Again, thanks for the help. This is one good group and I do enjoy
hearing all the comments and information. May have to lurk here for
awhile you know.

Maquah

I think that most quality chucks come with a chuck screw or equivalent, but not
sure... i know they're included with the Oneway chucks:

http://www.oneway.on.ca/chucks/owchucks.htm


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing