Any one tried the Utility Grip 4 jaw Lathe Chuck (includes 2 chucks) at
Penn industries?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/cug3418.html

Trying to decide what to buy for my Jet Mini.

Mark

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/


Maquah

On 27 Nov 2005 14:18:11 -0800, "maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

I would buy the best one you can afford. The Jet Mini is more than
capable of spinning virtually any chuck out there comfortably. I have
a SuperNova I've been using for over 4 years, which works well, but
there are plenty of others out there that would work, too. You're
really only limited by your budget, rather than any limitations of the
lathe.



--
Chuck *#:^)
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September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

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In article .com,
"maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/

The Teknatools Midi works well for me, plus the cole jaws for it will
clear your bed (unlike the cole jaws for the SN2)

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 05:27:14 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg
wrote:


The Teknatools Midi works well for me, plus the cole jaws for it will
clear your bed (unlike the cole jaws for the SN2)

Ralph,

The mini cole jaws, which fit any of the Nova/Supernova series, will
comfortably clear the bed of the Mini, also. AAMOF, I believe they
are the same jaws.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

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----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article .com,
"maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/

The Teknatools Midi works well for me, plus the cole jaws for it will
clear your bed (unlike the cole jaws for the SN2)

Does it use tommy bars or is it an allen tool type to open/close it?

Tnx,
Mark

In article ,
Mark Tetrault wrote:

Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article .com,
"maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/

The Teknatools Midi works well for me, plus the cole jaws for it will
clear your bed (unlike the cole jaws for the SN2)

Does it use tommy bars or is it an allen tool type to open/close it?

Unfortunately tommy bars

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/


Maquah

On 27 Nov 2005 14:18:16 -0800, "maquah" wrote:

Me too, I have to get a good chuck for my mini lathe. Any good
referrals would help a lot. Being new at this turning, I am learning I
don't know s... at the moment.
such as which chuck to get for my mini. and of course all of the tools
needed to turn bowls, etc, and burls.

also, how do you attach things to the chuck??/


Maquah

THere are several "how to" web pages, but basically, you either leave a short
stub on the end of your work, called a "tenon", which is gripped in the jaws
like a big drill bit,
or you turn a "recess" into the end of the work, which the closed chuck jaws
open out into to grip it... sort of like expanding a sanding drum to hold the
paper on..

There are also chuck screws or pin chucks, (which I use a lot), which are held
in the chuck jaws and screw or wedge into a small hole drilled into the wood,
usually used on the part of the wood that will be hollowed or cut off...




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
THere are several "how to" web pages, but basically, you either leave a
short
stub on the end of your work, called a "tenon", which is gripped in the
jaws
like a big drill bit,

It's not the grip on the tenon but the registry of the nose of the jaws to
the piece which counts. As with a mortise and tenon joint, the shoulders,
where the load is spread over a wider area, is where the real resistance to
racking lies. Keeps the piece from flopping itself loose. If you have a
dovetail tenon, you can have the jaws of the chuck draw up for you rather
than having to press and tighten.

or you turn a "recess" into the end of the work, which the closed chuck
jaws
open out into to grip it... sort of like expanding a sanding drum to hold
the
paper on..


Actually, you make an undercut mortise to accept a wedged tenon. The
interior doesn't "grip," it draws the piece tight up against the nose of the
jaws by wedging action. In this case the shoulders are inside the recess,
not outside, but they still work the same way.

There are also chuck screws or pin chucks, (which I use a lot), which are
held
in the chuck jaws and screw or wedge into a small hole drilled into the
wood,
usually used on the part of the wood that will be hollowed or cut off...

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 16:48:48 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
THere are several "how to" web pages, but basically, you either leave a
short
stub on the end of your work, called a "tenon", which is gripped in the
jaws
like a big drill bit,

It's not the grip on the tenon but the registry of the nose of the jaws to
the piece which counts. As with a mortise and tenon joint, the shoulders,
where the load is spread over a wider area, is where the real resistance to
racking lies. Keeps the piece from flopping itself loose. If you have a
dovetail tenon, you can have the jaws of the chuck draw up for you rather
than having to press and tighten.

or you turn a "recess" into the end of the work, which the closed chuck
jaws
open out into to grip it... sort of like expanding a sanding drum to hold
the
paper on..


Actually, you make an undercut mortise to accept a wedged tenon. The
interior doesn't "grip," it draws the piece tight up against the nose of the
jaws by wedging action. In this case the shoulders are inside the recess,
not outside, but they still work the same way.

There are also chuck screws or pin chucks, (which I use a lot), which are
held
in the chuck jaws and screw or wedge into a small hole drilled into the
wood,
usually used on the part of the wood that will be hollowed or cut off...


I was trying to keep it simple for a beginner, George... He can read a tech
manual later...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

I was trying to keep it simple for a beginner, George... He can read a
tech
manual later...


Unfortunately, Mac, you've given inappropriate, not simple information.
Which is why it's important that he should understand what's happening.

You're an old hand, and when your tenon-hold feels floppy, you know enough
to loosen a bit, jam the piece back into register with the jaws, maybe
rotate a bit to avoid crushed areas, then tighten. The reason you do this,
of course, is that you know tight isn't what really counts, rather registry
of chuck nose and tenon shoulder. Tight can have a half inch of runout if
only one point registers.

Same applies to the interior dovetail.

You want to think of what's important first - registry. No sense learning
it wrong if you're just beginning.

Once you understand this, it's also easier to understand why wider jaws,
though they grip as deep, are more appropriate for heavier loads.

Mac thanks for the information, much appreciated, have tried to send
two responses with system failure, not sure what is happening here.
Now have to go back and order the chuck I want, however, forgot what
damn favorites page it was in.

You have also given me more info to peruse. The chuck screws and pin
chucks. But first I will look and do the chuck thingy first.

Got to get a new chain saw as I found three big maples out in the woods
with burls all the way up the trees. So, guess who is coming home to
dinner? Gots to make some more fire starter materials from them.

Again, thanks for the help. This is one good group and I do enjoy
hearing all the comments and information. May have to lurk here for
awhile you know.

Maquah

On 29 Nov 2005 12:03:03 -0800, "maquah" wrote:

Mac thanks for the information, much appreciated, have tried to send
two responses with system failure, not sure what is happening here.
Now have to go back and order the chuck I want, however, forgot what
damn favorites page it was in.

You have also given me more info to peruse. The chuck screws and pin
chucks. But first I will look and do the chuck thingy first.

Got to get a new chain saw as I found three big maples out in the woods
with burls all the way up the trees. So, guess who is coming home to
dinner? Gots to make some more fire starter materials from them.

Again, thanks for the help. This is one good group and I do enjoy
hearing all the comments and information. May have to lurk here for
awhile you know.

Maquah

I think that most quality chucks come with a chuck screw or equivalent, but not
sure... i know they're included with the Oneway chucks:

http://www.oneway.on.ca/chucks/owchucks.htm


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Mark Tetrault" wrote in message
...
Any one tried the Utility Grip 4 jaw Lathe Chuck (includes 2 chucks) at
Penn industries?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/cug3418.html

Trying to decide what to buy for my Jet Mini.

Mixed reviews over at http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/turning.pl?index

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 14:07:19 -0700, Mark Tetrault
wrote:

Any one tried the Utility Grip 4 jaw Lathe Chuck (includes 2 chucks) at
Penn industries?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/cug3418.html

Trying to decide what to buy for my Jet Mini.

Mark

Just a personal opinion, but I bought a Oneway Talon for my shopsmith a year or
so ago.. love it!
When I got my jet mini, I bought an adapter for $20 and I was turning on the
mini...
I bought a jet 1442 in June and just screwed the chuck off the mini and onto the
new lathe...
I don't know if this is an endorsement or not, but I just got my 2nd Talon last
month so that I have one on each lathe...

They AREN'T cheap, but I figured that it was a long term investment and $200
wasn't gonna bankrupt me...
I have no experience with any other chuck, so this is NOT an objective post..
*g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing