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  #1   Report Post  
Terry
 
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Default Bison 6 1/4 chuck installation questions

I just installed a Bison 6 1/4" chuck onto a Bison threaded backing
plate and had a few questions.

I used a step by step guide for machining the backplate on my lathe. I
machined a flat surface towards the outer edge where the chuck rests
against and the bolts go through (a spigot). I left the inner portion
..001" over so the chuck has a very tight press fit.

I measured the flatness of the backing plate where the chuck will rest
against, and it was around .0002". I did all the machining operations
to the backing plate in one session. So the plate was never removed and
re-installed again.

I then drill the mounting holes and made sure there were no burrs and
mounted the Bison chuck by using the mounting screw to suck it in
against the backing plate. I torqued all the screws in a cross pattern
(don't know if that really mattered). Then I mounted the assembly onto
my lathe.

I first checked the run-out of the chuck and it was .002". I then
mounted a 3" long standard into the chuck and checked the run-out
exactly 2" from the jaws. It was also .002". I removed and installed
the chuck assembly a few times from the spindle. I also loosened and
tightned the bolts and the runout did change slightly to .003". I had
it down to .0015" at one point, but messed with it some more and it
came back up to .003".

I am wondering why I am off by this amount. The backing plate mounting
surface was perfect. Is this normal for a Bison chuck?

Are there any tricks to getting the chuck perfectly flat against the
backing plate? I have 6 bolts so I assumed those would do the job.

Also, I was not sure if I should counterbore the back of the backing
plate for the bolt heads. Right now, the bolt heads are sticking out
past the rear of the backing plate. Is this typically done. It would
allow for more threads to enter the chuck.

Thanks for any info.

  #2   Report Post  
Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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"Terry" wrote in message
ps.com...
I just installed a Bison 6 1/4" chuck onto a Bison threaded backing
plate and had a few questions.

I used a step by step guide for machining the backplate on my lathe. I
machined a flat surface towards the outer edge where the chuck rests
against and the bolts go through (a spigot). I left the inner portion
.001" over so the chuck has a very tight press fit.

I measured the flatness of the backing plate where the chuck will rest
against, and it was around .0002". I did all the machining operations
to the backing plate in one session. So the plate was never removed and
re-installed again.

I then drill the mounting holes and made sure there were no burrs and
mounted the Bison chuck by using the mounting screw to suck it in
against the backing plate. I torqued all the screws in a cross pattern
(don't know if that really mattered). Then I mounted the assembly onto
my lathe.

I first checked the run-out of the chuck and it was .002". I then
mounted a 3" long standard into the chuck and checked the run-out
exactly 2" from the jaws. It was also .002". I removed and installed
the chuck assembly a few times from the spindle. I also loosened and
tightned the bolts and the runout did change slightly to .003". I had
it down to .0015" at one point, but messed with it some more and it
came back up to .003".

I am wondering why I am off by this amount. The backing plate mounting
surface was perfect. Is this normal for a Bison chuck?

Are there any tricks to getting the chuck perfectly flat against the
backing plate? I have 6 bolts so I assumed those would do the job.

Also, I was not sure if I should counterbore the back of the backing
plate for the bolt heads. Right now, the bolt heads are sticking out
past the rear of the backing plate. Is this typically done. It would
allow for more threads to enter the chuck.

Thanks for any info.



You may be expecting far too much from your chuck. The internal portion
of the scroll most likely isn't dead concentric with the centerline of the
helical thread, nor does the helix run perfectly, likely due to minor
distortion in heat treat. The scroll will also have a little clearance on
it's pivot diameter, so it is free to wander, albeit a very small amount.
Further, each socket you use when tightening the chuck will shift the scroll
ever so slightly such that you'll get a different reading each time you
close the chuck, plus every time you change material size you should expect
that the chuck won't tighten the same. Frankly, in my opinion, if your
chuck holds within .003", it's not bad. It's even better if you can find
a given socket that runs closer for a given diameter. As far as I'm
concerned, if your jaws hold material parallel to the centerline (it appears
it does), you have a pretty good condition. If you'd like higher
precision, you should either buy an adjust true type chuck, or use soft jaws
(properly). Personally, I don't recommend the adjust true type, but
endorse soft jaws heartily.

Harold



  #3   Report Post  
David Billington
 
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What do Bison quote for the accuracy of your model, both my Bison 160mm
chucks came with a booklet giving this info. Did you use the socket
marked with a 0 , that is the master socket and gives minimum runout for
a new chuck. The last one I did as you describe gave 0.0005" TIR on a 1"
test bar after mounting.

Terry wrote:

I just installed a Bison 6 1/4" chuck onto a Bison threaded backing
plate and had a few questions.

I used a step by step guide for machining the backplate on my lathe. I
machined a flat surface towards the outer edge where the chuck rests
against and the bolts go through (a spigot). I left the inner portion
.001" over so the chuck has a very tight press fit.

I measured the flatness of the backing plate where the chuck will rest
against, and it was around .0002". I did all the machining operations
to the backing plate in one session. So the plate was never removed and
re-installed again.

I then drill the mounting holes and made sure there were no burrs and
mounted the Bison chuck by using the mounting screw to suck it in
against the backing plate. I torqued all the screws in a cross pattern
(don't know if that really mattered). Then I mounted the assembly onto
my lathe.

I first checked the run-out of the chuck and it was .002". I then
mounted a 3" long standard into the chuck and checked the run-out
exactly 2" from the jaws. It was also .002". I removed and installed
the chuck assembly a few times from the spindle. I also loosened and
tightned the bolts and the runout did change slightly to .003". I had
it down to .0015" at one point, but messed with it some more and it
came back up to .003".

I am wondering why I am off by this amount. The backing plate mounting
surface was perfect. Is this normal for a Bison chuck?

Are there any tricks to getting the chuck perfectly flat against the
backing plate? I have 6 bolts so I assumed those would do the job.

Also, I was not sure if I should counterbore the back of the backing
plate for the bolt heads. Right now, the bolt heads are sticking out
past the rear of the backing plate. Is this typically done. It would
allow for more threads to enter the chuck.

Thanks for any info.


  #4   Report Post  
Terry
 
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I am using the socket marked with a 0. Basically, the runout of the
chuck body gets transferred exactly to the runout of my test bar. So
the jaws are accurately holding my test bar, this does not seem to be
the problem. I am measuring runout on the chuck body and this is what
now reads .003". So it seems as if the chuck body is not seating
properly on the backing plate. The mating surface on the backing plate
was flat to around .0002" (measured farthest from the center). So I
imagine if the chuck were seated properly and the surfaces where
perfectly clean, which I took extra care to make sure, there should be
very little runout on the chuck body.

Also, I have not turned down the outside diameter of the backing plate
yet, so there is about a 1/4" lip sticking out past the chuck. When I
put my test indicator on this surface, which is the same surface the
chuck is mated too, it still measured around .0002" so I know the
backing plate is mounted properly to the spindle.

I still think the chuck may not be seating properly. I am not unhappy
with the set-up, but just not sure if this is typical from a Bison
chuck. As David mentioned, he was able to get his Bison 160mm (I
believe it is the same chuck I have) to .0005" TIR. So I am just
wondering if there were any other tips or techniques to getting the
chuck mated to the backing plate.

Thanks.

  #5   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
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Terry wrote:

I just installed a Bison 6 1/4" chuck onto a Bison threaded backing
plate and had a few questions.

I used a step by step guide for machining the backplate on my lathe. I
machined a flat surface towards the outer edge where the chuck rests
against and the bolts go through (a spigot). I left the inner portion
.001" over so the chuck has a very tight press fit.


Right at the step, when you machine the shoulder, it's a good idea to undercut
the shoulder just slightly to make sure that no radius is left to throw the
chuck off.

Other than that, it sounds like you did fine. .002" runout sounds reasonable for
a 3-jaw to me.

Are you comfortable using a 4-jaw chuck? Lots of guys go to amazing lengths to
avoid learning how to dial in a part in a 4-jaw chuck. It's a skill every
machinist should master.

GWE


  #6   Report Post  
jim rozen
 
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In article , Grant Erwin says...

Are you comfortable using a 4-jaw chuck? Lots of guys go to amazing lengths to
avoid learning how to dial in a part in a 4-jaw chuck. It's a skill every
machinist should master.


What Grant said. The man knows what he's talking about.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================
  #7   Report Post  
Terry
 
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Yes, I did undercut the shoulder. I do have an 8" 4 jaw chuck that I
use ocassionally on irregular shapes. This Bison chuck is replacing my
old 4" crafstman 3 jaw threaded chuck which was still very accurate and
with some tweaking of my work piece, I could get it down to less than
..001" runout. I tend to spend quite a bit of time with a dial
indicator making sure whatever I put into my chuck runs true. I was
hoping this new Bison with a properly machined backing plate would give
me some better results with less tweaking of the work piece.

I may pull it apart from the backing plate one more time and re-seat
it. If I can not get it any better than it is, I will just use it and
it will most likely be perfect for everything I do.

No one has mentioned if I should counterbore for the bolt heads on the
back of the backing plate. Is this typically done so the heads of the
bolts don't stick out? This would also give me more threads into the
chuck.

Thanks.

  #8   Report Post  
Artemia Salina
 
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Terry,

Things I would suspect as being trouble points are the +.001 on
the shoulder of the backing plate. If it's a "very tight press
fit" as you say, you may be introducing enough stress into the
chuck body to warp it slightly. Can you skin off another half
a thou? As Grant said, undercutting that shoulder is important
too, for the reasons he mentioned. Are all of your mounting
bolts torqued down approximately the same amount? If the chuck
body is larger in diameter than the backing plate you could
mount the chuck on the lathe and indicate the back of the chuck
body itself to see if it is seated squarely on the backing plate.
One way or the other you ought to be able to track down the error
and resolve it. As others have said, scroll chucks are not the
most accurate work holding devices, but their inaccuracy has
to do with the scroll and the jaws, not necessarily the chuck
body. If I were you I'd try undercutting that shoulder first
and go from there.

  #9   Report Post  
David Billington
 
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Both the Bison backplates that I have bought, a L00 and D1-4, have
counterbores so the cap head screws are fully recessed.

Terry wrote:

Yes, I did undercut the shoulder. I do have an 8" 4 jaw chuck that I
use ocassionally on irregular shapes. This Bison chuck is replacing my
old 4" crafstman 3 jaw threaded chuck which was still very accurate and
with some tweaking of my work piece, I could get it down to less than
.001" runout. I tend to spend quite a bit of time with a dial
indicator making sure whatever I put into my chuck runs true. I was
hoping this new Bison with a properly machined backing plate would give
me some better results with less tweaking of the work piece.

I may pull it apart from the backing plate one more time and re-seat
it. If I can not get it any better than it is, I will just use it and
it will most likely be perfect for everything I do.

No one has mentioned if I should counterbore for the bolt heads on the
back of the backing plate. Is this typically done so the heads of the
bolts don't stick out? This would also give me more threads into the
chuck.

Thanks.


  #10   Report Post  
Terry
 
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I may take another pass on the shoulder because it is a very tight fit.
I did undercut the shoulder. The backing plate is larger than the
chuck, so I can not indicate the back of the chuck. But I can indicate
the front of the chuck, and I did this very carefully by closing the
jaws all the way, and lifting the indicator point over each of the
three gaps. This showed it was about +.003" on one side of the chuck
indicating that it was not square to the backing plate which measured
..0002" on the part extending past the chuck.

I will pull of the backing plate, counterbore the bolt holes and take
another .0005" from the shoulder and try it again.

Thanks



  #11   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
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Terry wrote:

I may take another pass on the shoulder because it is a very tight fit.
I did undercut the shoulder. The backing plate is larger than the
chuck, so I can not indicate the back of the chuck. But I can indicate
the front of the chuck, and I did this very carefully by closing the
jaws all the way, and lifting the indicator point over each of the
three gaps. This showed it was about +.003" on one side of the chuck
indicating that it was not square to the backing plate which measured
.0002" on the part extending past the chuck.

I will pull of the backing plate, counterbore the bolt holes and take
another .0005" from the shoulder and try it again.

Thanks


Suggest you find out if the front of the chuck body is parallel to the back.
This would be easy if you had a surface plate and surface gage onto which you
could catch a dial test indicator, but there are many ways to do it.

Easy does it taking off that .0005"! I've been known to use a (shudder) file
under such circumstances ..

GWE
  #12   Report Post  
Artemia Salina
 
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On Wed, 06 Jul 2005 09:04:47 -0700, Grant Erwin wrote:


Easy does it taking off that .0005"! I've been known to use a (shudder) file
under such circumstances ..


Yes, I would suggest a very fine toothed file, low RPMs, and frequent test
fitting. Break the top edge of that shoulder while you're at it.

  #13   Report Post  
Ken Davey
 
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On Wed, 06 Jul 2005 09:04:47 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Terry wrote:

I may take another pass on the shoulder because it is a very tight fit.
I did undercut the shoulder. The backing plate is larger than the
chuck, so I can not indicate the back of the chuck. But I can indicate
the front of the chuck, and I did this very carefully by closing the
jaws all the way, and lifting the indicator point over each of the
three gaps. This showed it was about +.003" on one side of the chuck
indicating that it was not square to the backing plate which measured
.0002" on the part extending past the chuck.

I will pull of the backing plate, counterbore the bolt holes and take
another .0005" from the shoulder and try it again.

Thanks


Suggest you find out if the front of the chuck body is parallel to the back.
This would be easy if you had a surface plate and surface gage onto which you
could catch a dial test indicator, but there are many ways to do it.

Easy does it taking off that .0005"! I've been known to use a (shudder) file
under such circumstances ..

GWE


If the chuck is axially true to the spindle (the only really important
thing) you have the best precision the chuck can produce. Three jaw
chucks are not intrinsically accurate radially.
My three jaw (older than the local hills) is axially true. I have
machined the 'spigot' undersized and the bolt holes oversized. Thus it
is a trivial matter to slack the bolts and 'bump' the chuck until the
workpiece runs true. Otherwise, IMHO,
chasing a 'few thou' on a three jaw is an exercise in insanity.

Regards.
Ken.
  #14   Report Post  
Terry
 
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Taking off that small amount will be interesting. Just hope I don't go
to much and scrap my backing plate. If I keep my gibs tight I think I
can do it ok.

  #15   Report Post  
Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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"xray" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 6 Jul 2005 00:54:06 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:

Personally, I don't recommend the adjust true type, but
endorse soft jaws heartily.


I don't have any experience. I just got my first lathe and the three jaw
chuck was dirty and filled with bits of swarf. So I pulled it from the
backing plate and cleaned the majority without disassembling the chuck
itself. Probably not necessary, but a new owner of a used machine wants
to at least make it appear somewhat virgin.

This chuck had radial set screws to adjust true so I spent some time
adjusting the body of the chuck to run very true. Then I chucked some
drill rod and found it off by several thousandths. More time spent
truing the rod rather than the chuck itself.

So this kind of alignment seemed ok to me once I understood what to
adjust for. Sounds like you don't like it for some reason. I'm just
curious why? Being uninformed, I'm not even sure how the soft jaws are
used exactly.

Thanks for any enlightenment or opinions you can give to this new lathe
owner.

Adjust type chucks:
They're not a bad instrument, it's just that you can work yourself into a
frenzy getting them to run well for a given size, but you haven't really
solved any of the other problems the way soft jaws do. The purchase of a
chuck with master jaws (two piece jaws) is a far better investment, and
usually less expensive.

It would be easier for me to point you to a post I made long ago, which
explains in fine detail the benefits of, and methods to apply soft jaws.
Please check this link for some very helpful information, along with some
pictures to help you understand soft jaw usage.

http://www.chaski.com/ubb/showthread...ssion&Number=4
266&page=&view=&sb=5&o=

Harold






  #16   Report Post  
DeepDiver
 
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"Terry" wrote in message
ps.com...
Taking off that small amount will be interesting. Just hope I don't go
to much and scrap my backing plate. If I keep my gibs tight I think I
can do it ok.



Ok, I might get chastised for this by the more experienced machinists in
this group, but here's something I've done when I need to squeak off a tiny
little extra amount of metal in my lathe: I take a piece of fine emery cloth
and back it with something rigid, like a piece of flat metal stock and then
apply it evenly to the workpiece. Basically, it's like combining the
simplicity of a file, with the finer and smoother cut of toolpost grinding.
And by selecting the correct width of emery (and backing piece), you can hit
the entire area at one time so you're less likely to get steps, gouges, or
helical patterns. The key is keeping your backplate pressed lightly and
evenly across the surface of the work. If your shoulder is critical (as it
is on your lathe chuck, you want to make sure the emery does not extend past
the side edge of the backing piece and that your backing has a smoothly
polished edge so it won't cut the shoulder.

Often, all that's needed is to remove any high-ridges that were created by
the single-point cutting tool and the fine emery does an exceptional job at
producing an almost mirror finish. But like filing, don't get carried away
and take off too much.

- Michael


  #17   Report Post  
Hul Tytus
 
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Terry - please forgive a bit of an idle question: what is the logic
behind relieving the outside section of the backing plate surface? Also,
is the runout you mention a variation of the radius of a round bar held
in the chuck?

Hul

Terry wrote:
I just installed a Bison 6 1/4" chuck onto a Bison threaded backing
plate and had a few questions.


I used a step by step guide for machining the backplate on my lathe. I
machined a flat surface towards the outer edge where the chuck rests
against and the bolts go through (a spigot). I left the inner portion
.001" over so the chuck has a very tight press fit.


I measured the flatness of the backing plate where the chuck will rest
against, and it was around .0002". I did all the machining operations
to the backing plate in one session. So the plate was never removed and
re-installed again.


I then drill the mounting holes and made sure there were no burrs and
mounted the Bison chuck by using the mounting screw to suck it in
against the backing plate. I torqued all the screws in a cross pattern
(don't know if that really mattered). Then I mounted the assembly onto
my lathe.


I first checked the run-out of the chuck and it was .002". I then
mounted a 3" long standard into the chuck and checked the run-out
exactly 2" from the jaws. It was also .002". I removed and installed
the chuck assembly a few times from the spindle. I also loosened and
tightned the bolts and the runout did change slightly to .003". I had
it down to .0015" at one point, but messed with it some more and it
came back up to .003".


I am wondering why I am off by this amount. The backing plate mounting
surface was perfect. Is this normal for a Bison chuck?


Are there any tricks to getting the chuck perfectly flat against the
backing plate? I have 6 bolts so I assumed those would do the job.


Also, I was not sure if I should counterbore the back of the backing
plate for the bolt heads. Right now, the bolt heads are sticking out
past the rear of the backing plate. Is this typically done. It would
allow for more threads to enter the chuck.


Thanks for any info.


  #18   Report Post  
Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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"DeepDiver" wrote in message
...
"Terry" wrote in message
ps.com...
Taking off that small amount will be interesting. Just hope I don't go
to much and scrap my backing plate. If I keep my gibs tight I think I
can do it ok.



Ok, I might get chastised for this by the more experienced machinists in
this group, but here's something I've done when I need to squeak off a

tiny
little extra amount of metal in my lathe: I take a piece of fine emery

cloth
and back it with something rigid, like a piece of flat metal stock and

then
apply it evenly to the workpiece. Basically, it's like combining the
simplicity of a file, with the finer and smoother cut of toolpost

grinding.
And by selecting the correct width of emery (and backing piece), you can

hit
the entire area at one time so you're less likely to get steps, gouges, or
helical patterns. The key is keeping your backplate pressed lightly and
evenly across the surface of the work. If your shoulder is critical (as it
is on your lathe chuck, you want to make sure the emery does not extend

past
the side edge of the backing piece and that your backing has a smoothly
polished edge so it won't cut the shoulder.

Often, all that's needed is to remove any high-ridges that were created by
the single-point cutting tool and the fine emery does an exceptional job

at
producing an almost mirror finish. But like filing, don't get carried away
and take off too much.

- Michael


Chuckle!

You won't get chastised by me, but I sure as hell have plenty to say to
those that use files for such operations. That's nothing short of insanity,
and is very poor practice.

Your points about leveling the highs with abrasive cloth or paper are right
on, as is your method of applying them. It would be very difficult to lose
center, or create steps by your method, due in part to the relatively slow
cutting process, although you do run a slight risk of rounding edges.
Beyond that, it's very best way to go, short of grinding, or *turning*, my
preferred method, considering the part is already in the lathe.

I would assume that in this instance, the material in question is cast gray
iron. Unlike mild steel, it will gladly allow a cut of a few tenths, with
excellent results. That would be my choice of methods to reduce a diameter
by a small amount. You risk nothing by this method, unlike all others.
Putting a file to a surface that should be considered precision isn't a
great way to go.

Harold


  #19   Report Post  
Terry
 
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I think you are talking about the cut I put in at the bottom of the
shoulder. This is to make sure there is nothing interfering with the
chuck against its mating surface.

It also worked well becuase when I cut the shoulder, I left it about
..015 oversize, cut the relief, then I machined the mating surface
perfectly flat, When I came back and turned the shoulder to the right
size, I stuck my bit into the relief making sure not to touch the
mating surface, and I was able to machine a nice surface without any
lips for the chuck to catch on.

I am sure someone else can explain it much better. This was the first
time I have done this. I found an article that explained it very well.
This is what I used to make mine.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page7.html

I guess the spigot is what people are referring to as the shoulder.

I did use one of my micrometer standards in the chuck, and it showed
the same runout as the chuck body did.

  #20   Report Post  
Artemia Salina
 
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On Wed, 06 Jul 2005 18:36:48 -0700, Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:


You won't get chastised by me, but I sure as hell have plenty to say to
those that use files for such operations. That's nothing short of insanity,
and is very poor practice.


So, do you intend to actually say the things you have to say about using
a file instead of abrasive cloth, or are you just going to call it insane
and leave it at that?



  #21   Report Post  
Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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"Artemia Salina" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 06 Jul 2005 18:36:48 -0700, Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:


You won't get chastised by me, but I sure as hell have plenty to say to
those that use files for such operations. That's nothing short of

insanity,
and is very poor practice.


So, do you intend to actually say the things you have to say about using
a file instead of abrasive cloth, or are you just going to call it insane
and leave it at that?


Duh! Yeah, maybe I should have expounded on my personal philosophy.
Mind you, this may or may not be in keeping with the teachings of some, nor
does it necessarily apply to those that have mastered the skills of tool and
die making, where filing used to be very much a necessary part of making
such items. The tool & die makers of today no doubt rely on CNC to
accomplish the more difficult of tasks, although my absence from the trade
since 1983 may be exposing my lack of understanding of current events.

There are problems with filing that are difficult to overcome unless one has
considerable experience. One of them is taking material off uniformly.
Having worked as a precision grinder, and experienced how the typical part
came off a machine, it became readily obvious to me that any kind of hand
work was a mistake, particularly when close tolerance was involved. What
I found was that surfaces were rarely, if ever, a constant diameter, nor
were they round, regardless of grandiose claims by many, including those
with considerable experience. From that, I concluded that the very best
way to accomplish a close tolerance turn was to permit the machine to do it,
or when that failed to be an option, to resort to abrasive cloth, which was
the least aggressive of all the options, and most likely to yield the
desired results.

I agree that there may be instances where filing works, but I avoid it as
much as possible. I worked in commercial shops for 26 years, non-stop,
primarily in the defense and aero-space industries, where work was well
inspected. 16 of those years included running my own business. To me,
files are for deburring, and little more. I concentrated my skills on
running machines, so I don't claim to have any particular manual skills.
Others certainly may have a different school of thought, but I'd enjoy
placing their work in a grinder, where the wildest of claims can be quickly
verified.

Harold


  #22   Report Post  
jim rozen
 
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In article , Harold and Susan Vordos says...

...it became readily obvious to me that any kind of hand
work was a mistake, particularly when close tolerance was involved. What
I found was that surfaces were rarely, if ever, a constant diameter, nor
were they round, regardless of grandiose claims by many, including those
with considerable experience.


LOL. I think you have to be of the "start your apprenticeship
with a cubic foot of cast iron and a file, by the time you
have reduced it to the size of a tennis ball the old-school
master will approve your project" sort of outlook.

Once somebody's gone through that drill they do seem to think
they're superman with a file. What they do with a centerless
grinder after that is open to evaluation though.

Jim


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  #23   Report Post  
DeepDiver
 
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"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

I agree that there may be instances where filing works, but
I avoid it as much as possible.
To me, files are for deburring, and little more.


I certainly agree when it comes to machining a precision surface (as if my
novice opinion means anything).

But there are valid uses for applying a file to a turning workpiece (beyond
deburring). For example, I have yet to build a ball-turning fixture for my
lathe. Therefore, when I want to render an external spherical surface, I
simply make a series of step cuts (using x^2 + y^2 = z^2 calculations) to
create a rough profile, and then apply a file to remove the high points,
thus yielding my nice ball end. For non-precise applications like this, a
file is indispensable.

- Michael


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Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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"DeepDiver" wrote in message
...
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

I agree that there may be instances where filing works, but
I avoid it as much as possible.
To me, files are for deburring, and little more.


I certainly agree when it comes to machining a precision surface (as if my
novice opinion means anything).

But there are valid uses for applying a file to a turning workpiece

(beyond
deburring). For example, I have yet to build a ball-turning fixture for my
lathe. Therefore, when I want to render an external spherical surface, I
simply make a series of step cuts (using x^2 + y^2 = z^2 calculations) to
create a rough profile, and then apply a file to remove the high points,
thus yielding my nice ball end. For non-precise applications like this, a
file is indispensable.

- Michael


Yeah, I also do that. Small radii on shaft ends, too. Don't even bother
to make the calculations, preferring to work with a template (radius gage) ,
instead. Maybe I should have said that using a file for a straight,
precision surface is stupid, which I think it is. Even those with
considerable skill can't guarantee the outcome. Truth be known, I use a
file a lot more than I imply, but never for straight (precision) work.

Harold


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