Hello all,

Sort of a turning milestone today... My skews were sitting there next
to the lathe, looking kind of neglected and likely irritated that I
have been using them as impromptu scrapers and parting tools, so I
decided that I was going to learn to use them properly, and damn the
cost in time and materials! Got a whole run of relatively nasty
catches at first, but after about two hours of doing nothing but
planing cuts, and another hour or so of carving sine-type curves, I've
finally got those suckers working the way they should (I hope!) At
least I'm not making more gashes than smooth surfaces anymore.

Lots of nice curls for mulching the flower beds, and I finally see why
a guy would even want to use a skew... They sure do leave a nice
surface, even on the punky wood I was practicing on. Got to where I
can even rough a blank out with the big one, so I figure I'm good to
go.

Definately worth the effort, IMO. Just figured I'd pass it along, as
I know there are some turners who are far more accomplished than I
that avoid the skew like the plague- but it didn't really take that
long to figure out in the great scheme of things, and I can already
see it's going to save me tons of sanding time!

Sounds like the same experience I had. My first few years of turning, I used
gouges and scrapers almost exclusively, until I overcame my skew-o-phobia.
You're right, it is a milestone, and it's amazing how easy the cuts come
with a little practice.

I remember being frustrated, because I'm self-taught, and no matter how many
descriptions of skew cutting I read in books, I could never seem to get the
correct angle or tool presentation. I had my epiphany during a turning class
back in the day when Shopsmith had their retail stores. Excellent instructor
(Mark Krick), he explained and demonstrated the cuts in great detail. I've
been in a turning club since then, and there's nothing like someone showing
you the techniques and showing you exactly what you're doing wrong.

Enjoy your newfound skills and keep practicing.

Buddy


"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
Hello all,

Sort of a turning milestone today... My skews were sitting there next
to the lathe, looking kind of neglected and likely irritated that I
have been using them as impromptu scrapers and parting tools, so I
decided that I was going to learn to use them properly, and damn the
cost in time and materials! Got a whole run of relatively nasty
catches at first, but after about two hours of doing nothing but
planing cuts, and another hour or so of carving sine-type curves, I've
finally got those suckers working the way they should (I hope!) At
least I'm not making more gashes than smooth surfaces anymore.

Lots of nice curls for mulching the flower beds, and I finally see why
a guy would even want to use a skew... They sure do leave a nice
surface, even on the punky wood I was practicing on. Got to where I
can even rough a blank out with the big one, so I figure I'm good to
go.

Definately worth the effort, IMO. Just figured I'd pass it along, as
I know there are some turners who are far more accomplished than I
that avoid the skew like the plague- but it didn't really take that
long to figure out in the great scheme of things, and I can already
see it's going to save me tons of sanding time!

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 06:35:51 -0500, Prometheus wrote:

Hello all,

Sort of a turning milestone today... My skews were sitting there next
to the lathe, looking kind of neglected and likely irritated that I
have been using them as impromptu scrapers and parting tools, so I
decided that I was going to learn to use them properly, and damn the
cost in time and materials! Got a whole run of relatively nasty
catches at first, but after about two hours of doing nothing but
planing cuts, and another hour or so of carving sine-type curves, I've
finally got those suckers working the way they should (I hope!) At
least I'm not making more gashes than smooth surfaces anymore.

Lots of nice curls for mulching the flower beds, and I finally see why
a guy would even want to use a skew... They sure do leave a nice
surface, even on the punky wood I was practicing on. Got to where I
can even rough a blank out with the big one, so I figure I'm good to
go.

Definately worth the effort, IMO. Just figured I'd pass it along, as
I know there are some turners who are far more accomplished than I
that avoid the skew like the plague- but it didn't really take that
long to figure out in the great scheme of things, and I can already
see it's going to save me tons of sanding time!


I think that learning to use a skew is something that new folks should, and
usually don't, do....
If you watch anyone using a gouge with swept wings, you can tell that they know
how to use a skew and when to use/not use it.. (of course, Bill Grumbine comes
to mind)
If you want to really play with a cool tool, try an oval skew... SO cool to be
able to roll it a little...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
If you want to really play with a cool tool, try an oval skew... SO cool
to be
able to roll it a little...


Try a straight chisel, sometimes referred to as a "beading tool," and you'll
wonder why anyone would want to use a skew. Those who turned in the woods
for a living used straight and chisels with mild concavity, because they
were more controllable, made a smoother bead, and were easy to sharpen.

"George" wrote in message
...

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
If you want to really play with a cool tool, try an oval skew... SO cool
to be
able to roll it a little...


Try a straight chisel, sometimes referred to as a "beading tool," and
you'll
wonder why anyone would want to use a skew. Those who turned in the woods
for a living used straight and chisels with mild concavity, because they
were more controllable, made a smoother bead, and were easy to sharpen.
======================

And don't forget that little used (or known) tool, the bedan. It's easy to
make one from a small flat work chisel, and it does most of what you'd do
with a skew or beading tool.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

On Mon, 11 Jul 2005 13:07:06 -0400, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
If you want to really play with a cool tool, try an oval skew... SO cool
to be
able to roll it a little...


Try a straight chisel, sometimes referred to as a "beading tool," and you'll
wonder why anyone would want to use a skew. Those who turned in the woods
for a living used straight and chisels with mild concavity, because they
were more controllable, made a smoother bead, and were easy to sharpen.

I think I have one, George, just not sure from your description... sort of a
round skew but without that damned angle on the end?

Mac
03 Tahoe Widelite 26GT Travel Trailer
replaced 1958 Hilite tent trailer
99 Dodge Ram QQ 2wd - 5.9L, auto, 3:55 gears

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Try a straight chisel, sometimes referred to as a "beading tool," and
you'll
wonder why anyone would want to use a skew. Those who turned in the
woods
for a living used straight and chisels with mild concavity, because they
were more controllable, made a smoother bead, and were easy to sharpen.

I think I have one, George, just not sure from your description... sort of
a
round skew but without that damned angle on the end?


Looks like a mortising chisel, only mine has a touch longer bevel. It's the
ultimate in grinding back the nose and tail of your skew. They're straight!

In article . net,
"Ken Moon" wrote:

And don't forget that little used (or known) tool, the bedan. It's easy to
make one from a small flat work chisel, and it does most of what you'd do
with a skew or beading tool.

A couple years ago I attended a 2-day workshop with Jean-Francois
Escoulen - truly a master with the bedan. (Makes sense given the French
origins of both.) He handles the bedan both as a wide parting tool and a
narrow skew.

When you think about the tools we use, you will recognize that many are
used in similar ways to how we use a skew. Bedans, parting tools, and
long-edged tools like a roughing gouge or fingernail spindle gouge, can
all be used on the wood like a traditional skew cut.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Safety Tip'o'th'week: Never grind aluminum and steel or iron on the same
machine or workstation - Thermite.
http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article . net,
"Ken Moon" wrote:

And don't forget that little used (or known) tool, the bedan. It's easy
to
make one from a small flat work chisel, and it does most of what you'd do
with a skew or beading tool.

A couple years ago I attended a 2-day workshop with Jean-Francois
Escoulen - truly a master with the bedan. (Makes sense given the French
origins of both.) He handles the bedan both as a wide parting tool and a
narrow skew.
=====================

Did he bring one of his trembleurs with him? And did he go over use of his
string spindle steady? Both remarkable as far as I'm concerned.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

I really liked Alan Lacers DVD on the skew. Having a dead center as the
driver allows more or less slip by tightening the tail stock. no worries
about a catch. You can acually do one to see what happens. Tryed his way
of rolling a bead...dam worked first time. Tried cutting a pomel.. dam
worked first time. Waiting to get the money to get his other videos. Guess
I am impressed with his video good referance material. Watch it over and
over. Always pick up something.

Bruce
"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
Hello all,

Sort of a turning milestone today... My skews were sitting there next
to the lathe, looking kind of neglected and likely irritated that I
have been using them as impromptu scrapers and parting tools, so I
decided that I was going to learn to use them properly, and damn the
cost in time and materials! Got a whole run of relatively nasty
catches at first, but after about two hours of doing nothing but
planing cuts, and another hour or so of carving sine-type curves, I've
finally got those suckers working the way they should (I hope!) At
least I'm not making more gashes than smooth surfaces anymore.

Lots of nice curls for mulching the flower beds, and I finally see why
a guy would even want to use a skew... They sure do leave a nice
surface, even on the punky wood I was practicing on. Got to where I
can even rough a blank out with the big one, so I figure I'm good to
go.

Definately worth the effort, IMO. Just figured I'd pass it along, as
I know there are some turners who are far more accomplished than I
that avoid the skew like the plague- but it didn't really take that
long to figure out in the great scheme of things, and I can already
see it's going to save me tons of sanding time!

In article . net,
"Ken Moon" wrote:

Did he bring one of his trembleurs with him? And did he go over use of his
string spindle steady? Both remarkable as far as I'm concerned.

Better than that - he made one for us (Northwest Woodturners) and signed
it. We made a base for it with a protective plexi tube and auctioned it
off last summer at our wood'n'tool auction. If I remember correctly, I
think we got something in the neighborhood of $250 for it. Here's a pic
of the finished trembleur as auctioned:

http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/Escoulentrembler.jpg

Here's a link to some pics of Escoulen's demo for us:
http://www.northwestwoodturners.com/demos/escoulen_frame.html

Lastly, I did make his string steady - sort of... I tried it but found
the string a little too fussy. Either that or I forgot how he wound and
tied it. I resorted to his basic framework but then went with UHMW
plastic and deStacco clamps:

http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest.JPG
http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest2.JPG

Works great and is easy to setup and take down. For the type of work I'm
doing I need something that's quick and easy to move as I work -- I move
them (I have two steadies) about 5 or so times in making one spindle.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Safety Tip'o'th'week: Never grind aluminum and steel or iron on the same
machine or workstation - Thermite.
http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article . net,
"Ken Moon" wrote:

Did he bring one of his trembleurs with him? And did he go over use of
his
string spindle steady? Both remarkable as far as I'm concerned.

Better than that - he made one for us (Northwest Woodturners) and signed
it. We made a base for it with a protective plexi tube and auctioned it
off last summer at our wood'n'tool auction. If I remember correctly, I
think we got something in the neighborhood of $250 for it. Here's a pic
of the finished trembleur as auctioned:

http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/Escoulentrembler.jpg

Here's a link to some pics of Escoulen's demo for us:
http://www.northwestwoodturners.com/demos/escoulen_frame.html

Lastly, I did make his string steady - sort of... I tried it but found
the string a little too fussy. Either that or I forgot how he wound and
tied it. I resorted to his basic framework but then went with UHMW
plastic and deStacco clamps:

http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest.JPG
http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest2.JPG

Works great and is easy to setup and take down. For the type of work I'm
doing I need something that's quick and easy to move as I work -- I move
them (I have two steadies) about 5 or so times in making one spindle.
machine or workstation - Thermite.
http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm
========================
I attended a one day demo that he did for the Central Texas Woodturners
Assn. in the late 90's. It was right after he introduced his eccentric chuck
to the US market. He's the most impressive turner I've ever watched. I'd
never heard of a bedan before I saw him, but he made it look so eay, I had
to try it; almost as easy as he made it look. The trembleur is a different
story; I can make one section. {:-(
My ambition is to go to France for one of his classes (right after I get
that lottery money!) I'm still saving for one of his chucks also. So many
wishes, so little money.
BTW, thanks for the links.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 12:25:45 -0400, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
Try a straight chisel, sometimes referred to as a "beading tool," and
you'll
wonder why anyone would want to use a skew. Those who turned in the
woods
for a living used straight and chisels with mild concavity, because they
were more controllable, made a smoother bead, and were easy to sharpen.

I think I have one, George, just not sure from your description... sort of
a
round skew but without that damned angle on the end?


Looks like a mortising chisel, only mine has a touch longer bevel. It's the
ultimate in grinding back the nose and tail of your skew. They're straight!

yep.. that describes it... I made it for cutting recesses in bowl bottoms before
I knew about swept wings on a bowl gouge..

Mac
03 Tahoe Widelite 26GT Travel Trailer
replaced 1958 Hilite tent trailer
99 Dodge Ram QQ 2wd - 5.9L, auto, 3:55 gears

Owen Lowe wrote in
news
snip
Lastly, I did make his string steady - sort of... I tried it but found
the string a little too fussy. Either that or I forgot how he wound
and tied it. I resorted to his basic framework but then went with UHMW
plastic and deStacco clamps:

http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest.JPG
http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest2.JPG

Works great and is easy to setup and take down. For the type of work
I'm doing I need something that's quick and easy to move as I work --
I move them (I have two steadies) about 5 or so times in making one
spindle.


That looks to be about the level of engineering I'd like to attempt. Do
you know if it scales up well to handle say a Shaker chair rail, at 1.75"?
Or am I stuck with the skate wheel design?

Thanks for the links.

Patriarch

In article 36,
Patriarch wrote:

That looks to be about the level of engineering I'd like to attempt. Do
you know if it scales up well to handle say a Shaker chair rail, at 1.75"?
Or am I stuck with the skate wheel design?

I don't know why it wouldn't work just fine at the diameter you're
looking to do. All you're really trying to do is limit horizontal
movement from the centerline axis.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Safety Tip'o'th'week: Never grind aluminum and steel or iron on the same
machine or workstation - Thermite.
http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm