Hello all,

I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple
and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging
trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a
big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it
sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer
over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to
have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl
tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the
hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to
finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried
this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to
survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If
it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as
well, or does it need to have a thin wall?

Thanks for any advice you've got!

"Prometheus" wrote in message
news
Hello all,

I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple
and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging
trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a
big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it
sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer
over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to
have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl
tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the
hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to
finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried
this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to
survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If
it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as
well, or does it need to have a thin wall?

Thanks for any advice you've got!


"Standard procedure" is anything but an occlusive coating in my house.
Maple looks best without black mildew spots. You really want to get the
moisture content down before anchorsealing or such, or woods with the sap up
can grow some remarkably ugly things. Remember, the ride to the fiber
saturation point is free of cracks or distortion. That's ~30%, with mildew
and fungal growth stopping at ~20%, so plan accordingly.

What's going to happen with the shellac? Don't know. If you cut thin and
spun hard, you took it off the lathe at about 30%. I'd get it out of the
humidity, but not into the sun and hope for the best. Shellac will tolerate
a certain amount of excess water, but it looks milky with the stuff trapped
under.

I would agree with George that finishing is probably best left until the
bowl is dry. If you must finish it straight away, a non curing finish
like mineral oil or beeswax might be a better compromise.

If you turn the bowl thin enough, it will warp rather than crack. Here
is a yellow birch bowl that I turned recently:
http://chipshop.blogspot.com/2005/04/warped-bowl.html
It is now dry and waiting for the base to be trued up before finishing.

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/

Derek,
You can take wet turned bowls, dry them slowly, then sand and finish.
If your turning tecnique is good enough, you can wet sand them before
drying. The main thing with this style is to turn fairly thin,with even
wall thickness at 3/8 to 1/4 inch. If it is fairly humid where you are,
just setting on a shelf, out of sun and wind, will work. You can also
brown bag it which creates a stable mini enviroment for the bowl to dry
in. The bowl will warp, and seldom cracks. It can be dry enough to sand
and oil finish in a week to a month. If it still feels cool to the
touch, it needs to dry a bit longer. Fruit woods seem to be way more
prone to splitting if they are thicker than 1/4 inch. Maple seems to be
okay up to 1/2 inch thick.
robo hippy



















Derek Andrews wrote:
I would agree with George that finishing is probably best left until
the
bowl is dry. If you must finish it straight away, a non curing
finish
like mineral oil or beeswax might be a better compromise.

If you turn the bowl thin enough, it will warp rather than crack.
Here
is a yellow birch bowl that I turned recently:
http://chipshop.blogspot.com/2005/04/warped-bowl.html
It is now dry and waiting for the base to be trued up before
finishing.

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/

"robo hippy" wrote in message
oups.com...


Derek,
You can take wet turned bowls, dry them slowly, then sand and finish.
If your turning tecnique is good enough, you can wet sand them before
drying. The main thing with this style is to turn fairly thin,with even
wall thickness at 3/8 to 1/4 inch. If it is fairly humid where you are,
just setting on a shelf, out of sun and wind, will work. You can also
brown bag it which creates a stable mini enviroment for the bowl to dry
in. The bowl will warp, and seldom cracks. It can be dry enough to sand
and oil finish in a week to a month. If it still feels cool to the
touch, it needs to dry a bit longer. Fruit woods seem to be way more
prone to splitting if they are thicker than 1/4 inch. Maple seems to be
okay up to 1/2 inch thick.
robo hippy


Well, here's my experience. If you think of what prevents checking - since
checks become splits - a moisture gradient which keeps the surface almost as
wet (dry) as the interior, thin is great for all woods. Only ones I've had
problems with, depending on the slope of the walls, have been woods with
built-in cleavage plates - medullary rays - like oak and beech. Of fruit
woods, I've only turned cherry and apple.

Two other good things about thin are the fact that you can throw almost all
the unbound moisture by centrifugal force, and the wood has less substance
to pull against and distort.

As to dry times, it depends on the relative humidity. Consider that a plank
will lose or gain about one percent per week according to the FPL, and then
remember that water migrates 10-15 times as fast from end grain as from the
face, and you'd really have to have some strange circumstances to have a
bowl which took more than two weeks to EMC at less than a half inch thick.

Prometheus wrote:

Hello all,

I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple
and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging
trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a
big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it
sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer
over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to
have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl
tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the
hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to
finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried
this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to
survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If
it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as
well, or does it need to have a thin wall?

Thanks for any advice you've got!

And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent
and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the
solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the
piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish.
Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give
you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had
no problems with any of my pieces splitting.

Deb

"Dr. Deb" wrote in message
...
Prometheus wrote:

Hello all,

I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple
and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging
trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a
big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it
sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer
over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to
have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl
tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the
hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to
finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried
this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to
survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If
it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as
well, or does it need to have a thin wall?

Thanks for any advice you've got!

And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish
detergent
and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the
solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the
piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish.
Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give
you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had
no problems with any of my pieces splitting.

Deb

*APPLAUSE, LOUD HUZZAHS, BELLS RINGING, CANNONS FIRING, 1812 OVERTURE
CRESCENDOS*

Leif

On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:

And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish detergent
and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the
solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the
piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish.
Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give
you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had
no problems with any of my pieces splitting.

How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the
moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work,
of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses
mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without
drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked
wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll
definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for
filling in the details of the method.

To fill in a couple of details from my original post, the bowl in
question is about 5" dia x 3" deep with a wall thickness of about
3/8", and slightly thicker (perhaps 1/2") on the bottom. I did the
final cuts at a spindle speed of 1750 rpm, and sanded for a heck of a
long time to clean up some tearout on the end grain, and got the piece
fairly hot. Sanded though the grits to 400 (60, 100, 120, 220, 320,
400), and then burnished the piece with the shavings. No way of
telling what the moisture content ended up being.

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...

To fill in a couple of details from my original post, the bowl in
question is about 5" dia x 3" deep with a wall thickness of about
3/8", and slightly thicker (perhaps 1/2") on the bottom. I did the
final cuts at a spindle speed of 1750 rpm, and sanded for a heck of a
long time to clean up some tearout on the end grain, and got the piece
fairly hot. Sanded though the grits to 400 (60, 100, 120, 220, 320,
400), and then burnished the piece with the shavings. No way of
telling what the moisture content ended up being.



VERY low. You cut thin, spun well - bet you saw the water on the end
grain - and then heated it by sanding.

NB on shaving burnishing. Don't do it if you are careless when cleaning
your lathe. One or two maple curls can do some distressing things to an
aspen bowl.

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:

And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish
detergent
and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the
solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the
piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish.
Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give
you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had
no problems with any of my pieces splitting.

How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the
moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work,
of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses
mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without
drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked
wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll
definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for
filling in the details of the method.

SNIP

Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical,
alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well,
at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution
draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in
the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap
solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish
with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that
I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same
scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners.
You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers,
the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They
will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to
cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am
available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G*

Leif

P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all)
and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak
that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the
directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items,
chilblains, cracked hands, low libido, etc!*G*

Prometheus wrote:

Hello all,

I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple
and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging
trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a
big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it
sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer
over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to
have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl
tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the
hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to
finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried
this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to
survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If
it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as
well, or does it need to have a thin wall?

Thanks for any advice you've got!


Leif has said it all. But then why shouldn't he, he is the High Priest of
LDD! :-)

Deb

I am just going to have to try the LDD method. One question though,
when you take the bowl out of the solution, do you just drip dry it, or
rinse it off, or what?
robo hippy
















Dr. Deb wrote:
Prometheus wrote:

Hello all,

I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice
maple
and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging
trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a
big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it
sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of
sealer
over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want
to
have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl
tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in
the
hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to
finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've
tried
this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely
to
survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange?
If
it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces
as
well, or does it need to have a thin wall?

Thanks for any advice you've got!


Leif has said it all. But then why shouldn't he, he is the High
Priest of
LDD! :-)

Deb

in contrast to most other posters, here's my approach:

turn the form to final size while wet - turn the walls thin, so light shines
through - with ash, this is around 1/8 to 3/16, maple is a little thinner -
put a bright light behind the piece and turn for uniform "glow". Then sand
and finish with laquer immediately. never have mildew problems, rarely any
checkng even on the foot, which is of course a bit thicker.
bill
"Prometheus" wrote in message
news
Hello all,

I went out on Sunday with the bow saw, and cut myself some nice maple
and birch out of some trees that were knocked over when the logging
trucks widened the road in the county forest. Since I don't have a
big stock of cured blanks yet, I've been turning a little of it
sopping wet. I know the standard procedure is to put a coat of sealer
over the roughed-out blank and wait for it to dry out, but I want to
have a few finished pieces as well! I made a little maple bowl
tonight after work, and finished it with a 3lb. cut of shellac, in the
hopes that it may survive.... I have seen a couple of references to
finishing the piece right away, but this is the first time I've tried
this. Did I mess up a perfectly nice little bowl, or is it likely to
survive with the shellac on it to slow down the moisture exchange? If
it does survive, does finishing immediately work on larger pieces as
well, or does it need to have a thin wall?

Thanks for any advice you've got!

"robo hippy" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am just going to have to try the LDD method. One question though,
when you take the bowl out of the solution, do you just drip dry it, or
rinse it off, or what?
robo hippy

=====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap Solution
attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary
turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G*

Leif

On Wed, 18 May 2005 11:24:25 -0700, "Leif Thorvaldson"
wrote:

Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical,
alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well,
at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution
draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in
the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap
solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish
with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that
I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same
scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners.
You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers,
the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They
will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to
cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am
available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G*

ROFL! So, if I use the method, do I get to learn the secret
handshake? If you've actually got a blurb on it handy, you can email
it to me at (remove the obvious NOSPAM, of
course) I figure it's worth a try, at any rate.

So, have you only tried this with dishwashing detergent, or have you
tried out simple glycerine as well? I haven't gone out and priced
them, but I would suspect that glycerine flakes can be had in a
reasonably large volume for far less than a commerical soap. That'd
also narrow down the list of possible chemicals that are working in
the wood to one.

Leif

P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all)
and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak
that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the
directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items,
chilblains, cracked hands, low libido, etc!*G*

On Wed, 18 May 2005 07:00:12 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:


"Prometheus" wrote in message
.. .

To fill in a couple of details from my original post, the bowl in
question is about 5" dia x 3" deep with a wall thickness of about
3/8", and slightly thicker (perhaps 1/2") on the bottom. I did the
final cuts at a spindle speed of 1750 rpm, and sanded for a heck of a
long time to clean up some tearout on the end grain, and got the piece
fairly hot. Sanded though the grits to 400 (60, 100, 120, 220, 320,
400), and then burnished the piece with the shavings. No way of
telling what the moisture content ended up being.



VERY low. You cut thin, spun well - bet you saw the water on the end
grain - and then heated it by sanding.

I was wondering about that. There was a little water at first, but it
dried up pretty quickly. And the bowl hasn't changed a fraction of an
inch in the past two or three days, so I figure it's probably going to
be okay.

NB on shaving burnishing. Don't do it if you are careless when cleaning
your lathe. One or two maple curls can do some distressing things to an
aspen bowl.

I get the whole area with a shop vac (vacuum and then blow it off)
between wood types, so it hasn't been a problem for me. Learned my
lesson about aspen with a chessboard I made last fall- the dark
squares are aromatic cedar, and the aspen turned a bit pink when I
sanded the two together. Still looks nice, but that's the last time I
mix aspen and anything else!

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

=====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap
Solution
attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary
turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G*

Leif


Hey Leif,
Are counterrevolutionary turners the ones who turn with the wood spinning
the other direction?
Martin

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"robo hippy" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am just going to have to try the LDD method. One question though,
when you take the bowl out of the solution, do you just drip dry it, or
rinse it off, or what?
robo hippy

=====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap
Solution
attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary
turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G*

Leif



Looks like it's too late to get the stuff cheap from a going-out-of-business
sale.

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/t....pl?read=71968

On Wed, 18 May 2005 11:24:25 -0700, "Leif Thorvaldson" wrote:


"Prometheus" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:

And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish
detergent
and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the
solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the
piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish.
Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give
you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had
no problems with any of my pieces splitting.

How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the
moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work,
of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses
mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without
drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked
wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll
definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for
filling in the details of the method.

SNIP

Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical,
alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well,
at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution
draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in
the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap
solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish
with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that
I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same
scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners.
You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers,
the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They
will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to
cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am
available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G*

Leif

P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all)
and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak
that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the
directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items,
chilblains, cracked hands, low libido, etc!*G*

good info...
thanks, Marge! *g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Thu, 19 May 2005 05:19:18 -0500, Prometheus wrote:


NB on shaving burnishing. Don't do it if you are careless when cleaning
your lathe. One or two maple curls can do some distressing things to an
aspen bowl.

I get the whole area with a shop vac (vacuum and then blow it off)
between wood types, so it hasn't been a problem for me. Learned my
lesson about aspen with a chessboard I made last fall- the dark
squares are aromatic cedar, and the aspen turned a bit pink when I
sanded the two together. Still looks nice, but that's the last time I
mix aspen and anything else!

hmm... never worked with it, but it sounds like you really have to cover your
aspen!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 18 May 2005 22:22:44 -0700, "william_b_noble"
wrote:

in contrast to most other posters, here's my approach:

turn the form to final size while wet - turn the walls thin, so light shines
through - with ash, this is around 1/8 to 3/16, maple is a little thinner -
put a bright light behind the piece and turn for uniform "glow". Then sand
and finish with laquer immediately. never have mildew problems, rarely any
checkng even on the foot, which is of course a bit thicker.
bill

Bill... is the bowl then "done", or do you bag/air dry/cast spells/ rack it?



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Martin Rost" rostmartin @ hot mail . com wrote in message
...

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

=====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap
Solution
attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary
turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G*

Leif


Hey Leif,
Are counterrevolutionary turners the ones who turn with the wood
spinning
the other direction?
Martin

Sorry, Martin, they are more devious than that. By their words shalt thou
know them! If you are suspicious of someone, send me a full transcript of
their remarks and I will process it for give-away phrases and words and
inform you of the findings. As a general rule of thumb, if they use the
abbreviation of LDD followed by curse words and reflections on my ancestry
you should be very suspicious. Either they know something that my mother
never told me, or they are counterrevolutionary rats, . . .errrh, I mean
woodturners. *G*

Leif

"George" george@least wrote in message
...

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"robo hippy" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am just going to have to try the LDD method. One question though,
when you take the bowl out of the solution, do you just drip dry it, or
rinse it off, or what?
robo hippy

=====A private email has been sent to you with a copy of The Soap
Solution
attached. Hopefully, this method will allow the counterrevolutionary
turners to keep napping while they wait for their wood to dry.*G*

Leif



Looks like it's too late to get the stuff cheap from a
going-out-of-business
sale.

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/t....pl?read=71968

====The poor fellow! He couldn't figure out how to dispose of used LDD
solution. LDD has been biodegradable for many years and has been going down
countless drains (even in New Jersey!) for an equal number of years. No
wonder the chemist chuckled. Undoubtedly, and based upon scientific surveys
of unhappy LDD solution users, it has been found that they: 1) Used the
wrong brand of LDD; 2)Used the wrong ratio of LDD to water; 3) did not
follow directions regarding using it! It is almost incomprehensible to me
that a person would make up 15 gallons of the stuff on a first try. I
suspect that he is an agent of influence promulgating anti-LDD propaganda --
one of those counterrevolutionary rats, . . . errh, I mean woodturners. The
Cause of LDD marches on and will not be deterred by such baseless claims or
anecdotes!*G*

Leif

Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
"Prometheus" wrote in message
...

On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:


And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish
detergent
and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the
solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the
piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish.
Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give
you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had
no problems with any of my pieces splitting.

How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the
moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work,
of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses
mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without
drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked
wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll
definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for
filling in the details of the method.


SNIP

Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical,
alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well,
at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution
draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in
the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap
solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish
with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that
I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same
scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners.
You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers,
the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They
will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to
cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am
available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G*

Leif

P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all)
and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak
that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the
directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items,
chilblains, cracked hands, low libido,

SWMBO wants to know if it will _increase it_ -- or should I stick to
other "methods".



etc!*G*




--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

On Mon, 23 May 2005 08:29:27 -0400, WillR
wrote:

Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
"Prometheus" wrote in message
...

On Tue, 17 May 2005 13:20:16 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:


And then there is the LDD approach. 50/50 mixture of liquid dish
detergent
and water, soak the nearly finished bowl for 24 hours wipe most of the
solution off, cover the bed of your lathe with plastic sheeting, chuck the
piece up and finish it on out, I usually use shellac and wax for a finish.
Depending on the type of wood, warping will be either non existant or give
you a nice oval effect (oak is bad about going oval). However, I have had
no problems with any of my pieces splitting.

How exactly is this supposed to work? Does the detergent lower the
moisture content of the wood somehow? I'm not saying it doesn't work,
of course, just wondering why it would. One of the other responses
mentioned that the wood may appear milky under the finish without
drying it, does the LDD method cause that to occur, or does the soaked
wood behave in effectively the same manner as dried wood? I'll
definately give it a try, as I've heard of this before. Thanks for
filling in the details of the method.


SNIP

Its manner of action can be only speculated on. Some ascribe mystical,
alchemical qualities to it, but a "vast consensus" of turners (errh, well,
at least myself and two others!) seem to believe that the soap solution
draws out water from the cell walls and replaces it with some substance in
the soap. I have never had a finish appear milky from use of the soap
solution. It makes the wood cut easier. And it takes any kind of finish
with the wood still damp after final turning and sanding. Don't mention that
I sent you the samizdat on The Soap Solution as you will receive the same
scorn and loathing that I have had to suffer from the reactionary turners.
You know the type: the boilers, the bakers, the microwavers, the soakers,
the spin driers, the drycleaners, the air driers for ten years, etc. They
will cause you to doubt the truth behind The Soap Solution, yea, verily, to
cause it to appear un-Constitutional. Heed not the fearmongers! I am
available for a limited time only free consultation by email. *G*

Leif

P.S. I have turned complete salad sets for my two nieces (18 Pieces in all)
and not a one has warped or gone out of round. Maybe it is the type of oak
that is referred to above, but in my experience, if you follow the
directions you will not suffer from cracked, out-of-round turned items,
chilblains, cracked hands, low libido,

SWMBO wants to know if it will _increase it_ -- or should I stick to
other "methods".



etc!*G*

keep taking those lil' pills... where there's a Will, there's a way.. *g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing